Bad ignition switch???
Bad ignition switch???
i been this problem...when i turn the key nothing happens i tested the starter and even bought a new one it dosent even attempt to crank.. the only time it starts is when i jump the starter or pop the clutch.. is this a bad syntom of a bad ignition switch i have a 95 5speed ??
if you have to jiggle the key, turn it a certain way or at a certain speed...then is probably your ignition switch. I also have a 95 5speed. Didn't realize how hard my car was to start until I got it detailed once and they had to call me to say my car wouldn't start. Rushed over and she fired right up no problems (Several times). Shut her off and let one of them try and she wouldn't start at all. Point being...we naturally learn what it takes to start our cars without realizing it. You may have been having this problem but adjusted the way you start your car without thinking about it. But it get worse...to the point it's even hard for you. You are at this point now. Change it soon before she leaves you stranded!! Not a hard job at all...There's a great how to in the stickies. Good luck.
if you have to jiggle the key, turn it a certain way or at a certain speed...then is probably your ignition switch. I also have a 95 5speed. Didn't realize how hard my car was to start until I got it detailed once and they had to call me to say my car wouldn't start. Rushed over and she fired right up no problems (Several times). Shut her off and let one of them try and she wouldn't start at all. Point being...we naturally learn what it takes to start our cars without realizing it. You may have been having this problem but adjusted the way you start your car without thinking about it. But it get worse...to the point it's even hard for you. You are at this point now. Change it soon before she leaves you stranded!! Not a hard job at all...There's a great how to in the stickies. Good luck.
100% chingon
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,003
i been this problem...when i turn the key nothing happens i tested the starter and even bought a new one it dosent even attempt to crank.. the only time it starts is when i jump the starter or pop the clutch.. is this a bad syntom of a bad ignition switch i have a 95 5speed ??
and dismantled the ignition switch only to find it perfectly ok. What it is, is the starter solenid relay. That's why the car starts when you jump the starter. The reason why "jiggling the key" works is that the series of impulses generated as you repeatedly turn the key, often nudges the solenoid just enough to pull in and engage the starter.
The ignition switch on the Gen IV is almost indestructible. I went through all this and dismantled the ignition switch only to find it perfectly ok.
What it is, is the starter solenid relay. That's why the car starts when you jump the starter. The reason why "jiggling the key" works is that the series of impulses generated as you repeatedly turn the key, often nudges the solenoid just enough to pull in and engage the starter.
and dismantled the ignition switch only to find it perfectly ok. What it is, is the starter solenid relay. That's why the car starts when you jump the starter. The reason why "jiggling the key" works is that the series of impulses generated as you repeatedly turn the key, often nudges the solenoid just enough to pull in and engage the starter.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1
I'm having a similar problem. My car takes long to start when off for a long period a time (a couple hours) and then idles normally around 700 rpms. After the car is put in drive and driven for a while during stoplights the car will begin to idle around 500 rpm making the car shake. Also when the car is put into park or neutral it idles around 700 but when put into drive it will drop right back down to 500. What is the problem?
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 704
From: Oakland, CA
I agree that the ignition switches are a common problem, but I no longer think it's the switch. I replaced one a while ago and still had periodic no-starts (i.e. no cranking at all), and finally decided that it was a matter of slop between the flange on the key cylinder and the slot in the ignition switch. I ended up putting a little piece of electrical tape in the slot in the switch, and it's been fine for 6 months. I think that was just enough to make sure the flange was pushing the switch far enough over. (You could probably put tape on the side of the flange on the key cylinder too.)
Kconnor, if the starter is cranking at all, you've got a different problem. There are a ton of threads about that. But idling higher in P or N than in D is normal, although 500 is just a bit low for D. I had a similar problem where the idle would dip once in a while if I was stopped at a light. I changed the plugs to NGKs and that fixed it. But it could be dirty throttle body, IACV, all kinds of things. There are a lot of threads on that one, too.
Kconnor, if the starter is cranking at all, you've got a different problem. There are a ton of threads about that. But idling higher in P or N than in D is normal, although 500 is just a bit low for D. I had a similar problem where the idle would dip once in a while if I was stopped at a light. I changed the plugs to NGKs and that fixed it. But it could be dirty throttle body, IACV, all kinds of things. There are a lot of threads on that one, too.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 540
From: dallas, tx
I agree that the ignition switches are a common problem, but I no longer think it's the switch. I replaced one a while ago and still had periodic no-starts (i.e. no cranking at all), and finally decided that it was a matter of slop between the flange on the key cylinder and the slot in the ignition switch. I ended up putting a little piece of electrical tape in the slot in the switch, and it's been fine for 6 months. I think that was just enough to make sure the flange was pushing the switch far enough over. (You could probably put tape on the side of the flange on the key cylinder too.)
Kconnor, if the starter is cranking at all, you've got a different problem. There are a ton of threads about that. But idling higher in P or N than in D is normal, although 500 is just a bit low for D. I had a similar problem where the idle would dip once in a while if I was stopped at a light. I changed the plugs to NGKs and that fixed it. But it could be dirty throttle body, IACV, all kinds of things. There are a lot of threads on that one, too.
Kconnor, if the starter is cranking at all, you've got a different problem. There are a ton of threads about that. But idling higher in P or N than in D is normal, although 500 is just a bit low for D. I had a similar problem where the idle would dip once in a while if I was stopped at a light. I changed the plugs to NGKs and that fixed it. But it could be dirty throttle body, IACV, all kinds of things. There are a lot of threads on that one, too.
Ok ... well while the band waggon is coming around, I'll jump on for a ride too.
I have the same intermittent want to hessitate at times start issue too. I think mine is a bad starter solinoid, but it could be ign switch as well .... When I hit the key, most of the time it works, but not all the time. Another issue I have is a loose wire someplace. My battery drained (a couple times now) and I had it checked, all is good. So, why is it draining at times and could it be the ign switch is not pulling clean from all the contacts causing the bat to drain? It doesn't do it all the time either .... very random.
I have the same intermittent want to hessitate at times start issue too. I think mine is a bad starter solinoid, but it could be ign switch as well .... When I hit the key, most of the time it works, but not all the time. Another issue I have is a loose wire someplace. My battery drained (a couple times now) and I had it checked, all is good. So, why is it draining at times and could it be the ign switch is not pulling clean from all the contacts causing the bat to drain? It doesn't do it all the time either .... very random.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1
Its not a bad solinoid
I went thru this also. I have a friend who is a nissan tech. THere is a pigtail harness that houses the actual electrical switch. it costs around $30.00 at the dealer. that fixed it for me. after adjusting it several times then finally giving in and buying the part.
100% chingon
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,003
I just removed the switch and took it apart, carefully, it has a spring or two and a ball bearing or two, as long as you're careful it isn't difficult. I could see the contacts and rotor bar were perfectly OK so I put it back together and reinstalled it. Then I took out the starter and got it refurbished by a local electrical shop. And that fixed the problem.
My max won't crank sometimes, and other times it will....similar to everyone elses problems...I turn the key,and nothing happends. Turn the key off and on again and it will crank. That post about putting the electrical tape in the cylander, is he talking about putting a piece in where the key itself goes?
This could be a number of things causing this but i've been trying to get my max going to 2 months now and it's getting frustrating driving around in a corolla when there is a GLE in my driveway not doing anything....
This could be a number of things causing this but i've been trying to get my max going to 2 months now and it's getting frustrating driving around in a corolla when there is a GLE in my driveway not doing anything....
The ignition switch on the Gen IV is almost indestructible. I went through all this and dismantled the ignition switch only to find it perfectly ok.
What it is, is the starter solenid relay. That's why the car starts when you jump the starter. The reason why "jiggling the key" works is that the series of impulses generated as you repeatedly turn the key, often nudges the solenoid just enough to pull in and engage the starter.
and dismantled the ignition switch only to find it perfectly ok. What it is, is the starter solenid relay. That's why the car starts when you jump the starter. The reason why "jiggling the key" works is that the series of impulses generated as you repeatedly turn the key, often nudges the solenoid just enough to pull in and engage the starter.
when you turn the key you obviously complete the circuit so that the relay closes... NOW the problem is that over time there is a little **** in the ignition switch that wears out.. so do this...
remove the switch from the steering column.. and hold it in you hands and use your key or screwdriver to turn it manually.. I bet ya $100 bucks that it starts...
why.. because you are physically moving the switch further... a pic would explain everything but i dont have any..
iv seen this 3 times already on 3 separate cars... basically it wears on every turn..
Stop bringing up old threads, post in the damn newbie thread.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...osting-93.html
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