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Shaving trunk keyhole help

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Old Jul 3, 2008 | 05:05 PM
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Shaving trunk keyhole help

My key cylinder has been messed up forever and i think somebody tried again becuz a couple of weeks ago it was missing, or maybe it flew off in the highway. Anyways, im pretty good with dents and sanding and ive used body filler before but ive never dealt with an actual hole. Do i need to weld a plate behind it and then just fill it and sand it? or is their another way? any input is appreciated! thanks in advance guys!
Old Jul 3, 2008 | 05:16 PM
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i'm sure theres ways to half *** it but the right way to do it is to weld a filler plate over it (not behind it), grind down the welds, fill it (pull back the paint with a da first), prime/seal/paint it.
Old Jul 3, 2008 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BLACKonBLACK98
i'm sure theres ways to half *** it but the right way to do it is to weld a filler plate over it (not behind it), grind down the welds, fill it (pull back the paint with a da first), prime/seal/paint it.
im probably dumb but wouldnt welding a plate in front leave a bump?
Old Jul 3, 2008 | 05:40 PM
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you cut a filler plate thats just smaller than the hole and try to make it sit flush or slightly sunken in. the reason you don't go behind is because your filler will be too thick, which will leave it prone to cracking/shrinking.
Old Jul 3, 2008 | 05:44 PM
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ooh ok. and is there a specific gauge i should use or just a piece of sheet metal from a hardware store? i ask because i work at Home Depot.
Old Jul 3, 2008 | 06:09 PM
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nothin particular... i think 16g is the most common for sheetmetal work but its been a while since i bought metal.

be careful with heat when you weld also. do a bunch of tacks with time to cool in between rather than running a bead. warped metal = more body work.
Old Jul 3, 2008 | 06:50 PM
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When Ptatohed has his keyhole filled in, I believe his brother tack welded a plate at the back side first, then proceeded pretty much like you suggested here.....

Originally Posted by BLACKonBLACK98
you cut a filler plate thats just smaller than the hole and try to make it sit flush or slightly sunken in. the reason you don't go behind is because your filler will be too thick, which will leave it prone to cracking/shrinking.
Originally Posted by BLACKonBLACK98

be careful with heat when you weld also. do a bunch of tacks with time to cool in between rather than running a bead. warped metal = more body work.
Good advice here. Ptatohed's brother (a body shop guy) told/taught us the same.
Old Jul 3, 2008 | 06:54 PM
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OK here is what you do. Go to the paint and body store and get something called cathair. Its like a bondo/fiberglass/resin mix. use that and its just as hard as welding a plate, and is very easy to sand within the first 1-2 or so, but after it sets up its hard as hell. It goes on just like bondo and is easy to pull. Good luck with it.
Old Jul 3, 2008 | 07:15 PM
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thanks for all the tips guys. i think this is going to be my weekend project. ill post pics of before and after
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