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Couple Hardwiring + EGR questions

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Old 07-14-2008, 06:17 AM
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Couple Hardwiring + EGR questions

Hello all, I had a few questions I hope a couple expert's could help me out with.

1) I have a radar detector that was given to me and is cheap, but has been useful on occasion, I still try not to speed incase it fails (plus it doesn't have laser (-.-) xD ) and I'm getting a GPS this week so I need to hardwire it.

Is it ok/possible to run it down the defroster vent and splice it into the cigarette lighter power, or should I go down the A-Pillar and find power over there?

2) I've been having intermittent high idle, with a P1400/1005 (EGRC valve solenoid). I checked the harness voltage (12v) and I checked the resistance across terminals (36.9 ohms) which both seem to check out which leads me to cleaning the EGR guide tube and checking the EGR valve. Should I just buy a new one? Is it really worth it to take power tools and wire brush to the inside of that tube?

Thank you to everyone who can help me clear these up.
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Old 07-15-2008, 01:48 PM
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no one?
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Old 07-15-2008, 02:07 PM
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running the power wire through the defroster vent should be ok as long as u can find a way through the tubing! the a pillar is also an ok idea as long as u can find an acc. power source over there! THe cig. lighter would be my choice but make sure it does not stay running when the car is off...or else u will be turning off the radar everytime u get out!
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Old 07-15-2008, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by dfruits
running the power wire through the defroster vent should be ok as long as u can find a way through the tubing! the a pillar is also an ok idea as long as u can find an acc. power source over there! THe cig. lighter would be my choice but make sure it does not stay running when the car is off...or else u will be turning off the radar everytime u get out!
Yeah I think I'll go the A-pillar to cig light route as long as the cable is long enough
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Old 07-15-2008, 03:26 PM
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I would not trust a cheap-o radar detector, just because you will get use to it always going off that when a real po po is there you will ignore it.
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Old 07-15-2008, 03:43 PM
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I know it can make you feel protected, and cool, but radar/laser detectors are pointless. In most cases you are alerted after you have been tagged, or recieve a false alert. The only somewhat effective detectors are the most expensive valentine and passport models. This was determined by controlled tests, not oppinion.

Definately clean the EGR tube. Make sure you have new gaskets for everything you take appart first.
 
Old 07-15-2008, 03:49 PM
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I just did my egr tube this past weekend. I purchased a new tube with all new gaskets and bolts. The guide tube was only like 30 bucks, better than spending all day cleaning it.
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Old 07-15-2008, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by maximized98
I just did my egr tube this past weekend. I purchased a new tube with all new gaskets and bolts. The guide tube was only like 30 bucks, better than spending all day cleaning it.
Which instructions did you follow for that? I see several different methods mentioned here.
 
Old 07-15-2008, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by maximized98
I just did my egr tube this past weekend. I purchased a new tube with all new gaskets and bolts. The guide tube was only like 30 bucks, better than spending all day cleaning it.
Oh alright, that's not bad. I think I might replace the solenoid while I'm at it since I'm getting a 1005 code
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Old 07-16-2008, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Jamaha80
Which instructions did you follow for that? I see several different methods mentioned here.
I just looked at all of them. It only took me like 30 minutes to take off the throttle body, iacv, and 3 of the 4 bolts to the egr guide tube. That last one is a b***h. I tried to saw off the end of the stud, no room to work. So I ended up trying to loosen the big pipe enough to bend it down to finish up. It was a big pain in the butt. By the way, I never did anything from UNDER the car!!!!!!!!!! No need to.
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Old 07-17-2008, 06:25 AM
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So today I bought UIM gaskets and the EGR valve gasket and on Sunday I'm removing the UIM and the whole deal, cleaning out the guide tube and replacing the EGRC solenoid valve. the whole 9 yards

Anything else I should do while I'm in there? Or while the UIM is off?
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Old 07-17-2008, 06:55 AM
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If you have not already replaced your knock sensor, I would go ahead and do it. It would take you like 2 seconds to replace.
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Old 07-17-2008, 07:58 AM
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Most I30 and some Max has a phone harness in the console with constant 12V and ignition switched 12V. This is where I powered the GPS, Bluetooth handsfree and ipod interface. This harness has a 1A fuse where as the cig lighter has a much larger fuse. A-pillar cover is pretty easy to pop off. Our 4G doesn't have an airbag there. If there is, route the wire between it and the glass.

My Garmin needed a cig lighter socket and I placed it near the ECU on the passenger side. The power/speaker wire and antenna wire came out of the dash between the center vent and the radio bezel. The GPS antenna is placed above the mirror mount. This GPS works without an external antenna but ext ant is better.

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...8/I30dasha.jpg

The Nokia CK-1A BT handsfree box is mounted in the right side kick panel near the Bose amp relay. Mic is mounted on the mirror pod. Speaker is mount underdash on the passenger side. Clarion/Bose HU has a mute input but I controlled the Bose amp relay before I found the HU mute input.

The Monster Cable iCruze ipod interface is wired into the HU in place of the CD changer and mounted near the radio. The ipod connector is placed in the console armrest box.

So all this works without switching on anything. The Nokia BT box will not cut your call off even if you switch off the eng.

Last edited by SVI30; 07-17-2008 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 07-17-2008, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by maximized98
If you have not already replaced your knock sensor, I would go ahead and do it. It would take you like 2 seconds to replace.
Hmm alright, I'll pick one up from Autozone when I grab the gasket set. Are they inexpensive?

[EDIT] Just checked Ebay, Knock Sensors go for $40-70 O.O but at @ 117k miles Idk how much longer mine will hold up

Originally Posted by SVI30
Most I30 and some Max has a phone harness in the console with constant 12V and ignition switched 12V. This is where I powered the GPS, Bluetooth handsfree and ipod interface. A-pillar cover is pretty easy to pop off. Our 4G doesn't have an airbag there. If there is, route the wire between it and the glass.
Alright, I think I'm going to splice into the cigarette lighter, but I'll look for other 12V sources. When I splice into the cigarette lighter, to I just splice in the hot wire and find a bolt to ground the other, or splice in both wires?

Last edited by Neo Raven456; 07-17-2008 at 08:07 AM.
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Old 07-17-2008, 05:47 PM
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Since you have to pull up the shifter bezel to get to the cig lighter socket, look for the phone harness located just behind the shifter. Any negative ground should work. I used insulation displacement taps to avoid cutting and stripping wires. They coming in different colors for different gauge wires.
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Old 07-17-2008, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by SVI30
Since you have to pull up the shifter bezel to get to the cig lighter socket, look for the phone harness located just behind the shifter. Any negative ground should work. I used insulation displacement taps to avoid cutting and stripping wires. They coming in different colors for different gauge wires.
Hmmm alright I'll take a look for the phone harness when I get in there. Insulation displacement taps? Is it something that just clips itself onto the wire and provides a clean connection straight through the insulation?

I suppose radioshack would have them, couldn't hurt to ask them


[EDIT]
So I found these:




neat right? Anyway, do you know what gauge the wires would be? 14-18 or like 18-22?

Last edited by Neo Raven456; 07-17-2008 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 07-17-2008, 07:18 PM
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Yes, these are the ones. I would like to get some of those with a side plug but haven't seen them yet. Some of them eventually work loose and need replacement. But I still prefer that to cutting or stripping a factory wire.
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Old 07-17-2008, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by SVI30
Yes, these are the ones. I would like to get some of those with a side plug but haven't seen them yet. Some of them eventually work loose and need replacement. But I still prefer that to cutting or stripping a factory wire.
definitely, did you use the blue ones? the 13-18 gauge ones?
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Old 07-17-2008, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Neo Raven456
definitely, did you use the blue ones? the 13-18 gauge ones?
Yes I did. Blue ones don't work well on the really thin wires. So I made J bends on the thin wires before inserting them. So far so good.
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