hey guys, so i accidentally broke one of my injectors, and it was pouring fuel into the engine, so it ran like crap....so i decide to replace it, but ended up buying all of them. so i put the new ones n, threw the old ones away pretty much....i took of the intake manifold to do the rears, and its not big of a problem to do.......ok, but then i put everything back on, and my decided to start my car......it spins, spins, but doesnt start. so i check everything, its connected....so i put in a new batter from my moms camry. same thing....so i take off the intake manifold again, and look, and all looks good....i unscrew the bolts that hold the fuel rail, and while some1 starts the car, i look at them, and they not even spraying...i took of a hose, and there is pressure and fuel in the fuel rail.....
so what do i do now? help will be great...i read the codes, and just had a intake temp sensor.
whoever solves this, gets $20 through paypal

also, those 2 bolts in the back that hold the manifold, do u really need to put them on? cause it was a BI*** to get to them


thanks,
Paul

 

By chance, did you pull the FP fuse to de-pressurize the system before you began, and forgot to put it back in? Also, it couldn't hurt to check the FP fuse.

As for the bolts in the back, I'd put them both back in. If you really don't want to put the bolts back in, consider doing at least the one closest to the #1 cylinder, as the egr pretty much holds up the other side. I know others will tell you different as many who have done the IM spacer mod have removed those bolts and not put them back in and have no ill side effects.

 

thanks wizard, i love you car, but i bet u already heard that.....but no, i didnt take out the fuse, but i still checked it, and i put another one, just to be sure....no result.

 

are you sure you remembered to reconnect the ground when you put the UIM back on?

 

Thanks!

Are you 1000% positive you installed the fuel injector o-rings correctly?

Did you buy new o-rings, or re-use your old ones?

This is a long shot, but when you plugged the harness back onto each injector (and the rear coilpacks and MAF for that matter), did it "click" and snap in place?

Remember to reinstall the vacuum line to the FPR?

 

im not sure wat a UIM is, (i treid search) but im guessing its the 2 wires that are in the front between 2 injectors, yeah, i did that.

 

UIM=Upper Intake Manifold

 

they snapped into place, except one, the one that goes to the fuse box where the battery is. it didnt snap in, but it connected....as hard as i tried, it doesn't snap in.....and i disconnected them and connected them again....i bought these for a .org member, and he said that they had 4500 miles on them, so i think they are all good.

and yes, i connected the vacuum to the FPR.


and the UIM, where do you ground it? i think its the 2 small wires by going through the big thick wire in the fornt, right? they are held on by 2 10mm bolts

 

Hi -

I just replaced the #1 fuel injector on my Max this past weekend.

Make sure the injectors are fully inserted. I tried (on the old injector) using the tip about using the pressure from screwing down the cap to insert the injector, but it didn't work. Instead, I tapped it in (very gently) used a hammer and a 15/16th box wrench. Hold the wrench straight up so that the tips are on each edge of the injector and tap the wrench gently with the hammer to seat it.

I don't know if this is the best way, but it worked for me.

Regarding the manifold bolts. Just take your time. Once you get them started, use a small pear head socket wrench to drive them in. The pear head socket wrench has a smaller profile and will fit behind the manifold allowing you to tighten them with relative ease.

Personally, with the way the engine moves around when driving, I would be terrified if the back my manifold was just 'floating'.

Best of luck!
Rob.

 

Maybe step 1 is figuring out if you are getting any fuel at all.

Take the front coils off, remove the front spark plugs, have someone crank the engine on the starter and see if fuel squirts out. I haven't done this on the Maxima, but I once had a similar issue after replacing the fuel rail on a different car and this helped me diagnose whether or not I was getting fuel.

 

You could just pull the fuel line off the rail and turn the key on. You shouldn't even have to crank the car; the fuel pump should run when the key gets turned on.

I know you probably didn't mess with any of these, but the crank and cam position sensors will affect starting in this manner. The car will crank and crank all day long, but never fire until the sensors are plugged back in. I'm pretty sure I had the same issue with my speed sensor once...

but yeah, make sure the injectors are getting fuel, make sure the injectors are firing (you can hear them click), make sure you have spark, make sure the o-rings are installed correctly and not leaking, and triple check everything you touched when doing the job (vacuum lines, sensors, etc.)

 

I wouldn't recommend doing that. Yes it works, but I wouldn't want to damage the injector. I have done similar things in the past...but IMO, the best thing to do is to lightly grease the o-rings and use your palm to push until they sort of "pop" into place. Don't be afraid to push HARD. Then screw the cap on.

 

Clean/dry/replace your saturated spark plugs!

I'll PM you my pay pal address

 

thnaks a lot guys....im 100% there is fuel in the fuel rails. i disconnected the FPR and fuel came squirting out of there.

also, i had the key on "on" the whole time while i was removing and disconnecting everything....including the cam sensor. does that mess it up in anyway.

and the spark plugs are less then 3k old. i put brand new NGK in.

 

are u gettin any spark?

 

try spraying some starter fluid in ur intake close to ur TB as much as possible while some one crankin the car for u... if it starts its ur fuel system if not then check to see if u r getting any spark

 

Shouldn't, no.

Did you pull any fuses before doing the work? Did you happen to swap the fuel lines accidentally? Are you sure you're actually getting fuel flow when the system is primed, and you didn't just see some residual fuel when you pulled the line earlier?

Check the connections at the CPS and both CKPS'.

 

That doesn't matter. You've been messing with the fuel system and have a hard/non existant start. The first thing to check is for wet plugs. Plugs with 0 miles on them can get fouled and not spark. Cean/dry/replace your plugs and then send me the $$$

 

I feel smart now that you've recommended this too

 

I would check my all the fuses and the CPS

 

true, but that just tells you that you are getting pressure to the fuel rail. He could be getting fuel rail pressure but the injectors are failing to open as well.


Also taking the spark plugs out gives him a chance to check them or let them dry as well.

 

all right, ill take the sparks out today b4 i go to work, and let u guys know wats up

thanks,
Paul

 

Do you have someone to crank the starter over while you watch it with the plugs out? It might be worth a shot to see if the injectors are opening and squirting fuel.

Also one other thing, while you had it apart did you do anything else to it? Once I had the same issue, I was getting fuel, I was getting spark, but I had scrubbed the intake ports clean and some of the gunk fell into the combustion chamber and that was keeping me from getting it started.

 

It's been recomended now, what, 5 times to check the plugs/spark? This should have been the first thing he did. I'd normally abandon someone who ignores help, but I could use the $20

 

So it means the fuel pump is on, but you don't know if ECU is actually opening the injectors

I recently changed my #5 injector and while having everything disconnected, IACV, sparkplugs, injectors I turned ON the ignition, just to turn on pump and check if the new injector is seated properly and not leaking. After that I had an issue, even with key out of the ignition lock, all the lights on the dashboard were lit, except for "check engine". It self fixed after I left battery disconnected while assembling everything back.

 

how do the contacts look on these grounds on the upper? maybe try taking some sand paper and do a quick clean up of them.

 

ok guys, i figured it out.....lol....the problem was. (wait for it) the "new injectors" are crap.....i connected my old fuel rail, spun the ignition, and it was spraying.....so now i have to spend $200 for new injectors......plus, decided to change the knock sensor while im down there...

about the $20, u guys fight about it, and i'll send it to the winner


(sorry for a stupid thread)

 

All 6 injectors are bad?

BS

 

5 of them....only 1 works

 

I'm still not buying it. What is the resistance for each injector?
But, regardless of any of that.... You only had 1 injector that was bad! There is NO NEED to replace all of them. It's a huge waste of money. It might be cheaper to replace them 6 at a time compared to 1 at a time, but chances are you won't have half of them go bad for as long as you own the car. All you need to do is remove the old injector, make sure it's resistance is within spec, replace the O ring(s), and run injector cleaner every so often and thats it. This entire thread is such a waste of time, money, and effort. I'm really not trying to be mean, I don't get off on that, I am only calling this as I see it.

 

This is weird....you had 1 bad injector in the beginning, you opted to replace all of them anyway, which is fine but now 5 of the 6 new ones arent working? So why not use the 5 old ones that were working and your 1 good one and make it work? Nonetheless, like Jama said, to have 5 of 6 new injectors all be bad like this is odd......

 

This is what i did to test my injectors when i suspected they were bad

i took a 9v battery and hooked up each injector and listen for a click.

but i have to agree with everyone else is saying its very unlikely that all your new injectors are bad but 1.

oh and btw i have a set of 6 injectors sitting in my garage. send me over a pm and we can
work some thing out.

 

Who told you to do that? Never heard of it, but that doesn't mean it wouldnt work. Did you verify the 9 volt battery was still good?.. Get a multimeter and test them the right way by looking at resistance. I don't see it covered in the FSM, but this is basic good info:
http://www.ohmcheck.com/fuelinjectors.htm

 

Did he tell you why he was selling them?


This could be a big problem. I missed this part..... You should probably just stop working on your car altogether and find a competent mechanic. Stop wasting your money on tools/parts etc. You're going to end up spending more on your repairs and mistakes than what even the dealer would charge for the same service.

 

i did check the resistance, and they are all the same...old ones and new ones....but they dont work.....nor do they click when u spin it......i decided to change all of them cause they looked to be in pretty bad condition, and my car has 106k on it.....

i took my car to a mechanic, and he "fixed" my car like so that i had to go to other 3 mechaanics after that and they couldnt fix anything....i ened up doing it myself....

 

106k is nothing for injectors. They should be expected to perform into the 200k+ range. Just because something is cosmeticaly dirty on the outside doesnt mean that reflects it's overall condition and operation. This is all pretty much a lost cause and I highly recomend you just get a tow to the dealer and forget about it.

 

Lol....yea or somewhere at this point. I think steps were skipped and potential results based from those checks leave this pretty unclear.

 

Even then, most people can't seem to comprehend that even if they check out electrically, they could still be bad physically and won't deliver any fuel.

 

^^ very true thats why the best way to check out if they click is to take them out make a pig tail and hook them up to a dc current and listen for a click vs trying to hear them over the motor. but i suppose you could do the good ole screwdriver trick

 

QFT. I learned the hard way alotta years back....he will too.