I've had 2 injectors that were bad but would still click only it was a slightly fainter click.

 

just for knowledge sake... would you get a check engine light when the injectors are going bad?

 

u guys got it wrong about the injectors, he said ONE WORKS, FIVE are BAD, not the other way around, so he is better off buying 5 or 6 injectors.

 

this is how the story begins.....
thats y everyone has been saying that, he broke one and he got 5 skunks outta a 6 pack

 

You should reread the thread and be damn sure you got the story straight before you go unleashing the caps lock

 

IT"S A FUSE IN THE ENGINE BAY (check dash ones 2nd) LABELED SOMETHING SIMILIAR TO THE FOLLOWING:

ECCS, ECCS2, ECM, etc

PAYPAL IS KEVGOODS@HOTMAIL.COM

To verify, you can check the fuses (duh) or you can check the wire containing red on any of the 6 injectors for 12v's power.

If the fuse is good and you have power @ the injectors, stick your head in the passanger side left foot area and smell, if you somehow shorted out an injector driver you will smell it, though I doubt that is the problem since it's VERY unlikely that you shorted out all of the drivers, one or two will only cause an "un-findable" misfire (unless you start tracking things back with a noid light.)

 

^^^^sounds very reasonable consideringthe circumstances. Let us know if this is the problem, Im way interested now.

 

^^
Even not considering the circumstances, one time I did a passanger side axle and the car wouldn't start. I still can't figure that one out, it was so routine and everything went without a hitch. The other time I popped it was doing a rear valve cover on a 5.5 gen, had the cam sensor wire get pinched & shorted out. Both times same symptoms, no start, no codes, spark, but no fuel. But anyways, my auto teacher told us that anytime a car isn't firing up the 1st two things you should do is check the oil & the fuses, go figure, it's helped me out a few times, the one time I waited 1/2 hour and checked other stuff I felt like a retard afterwards for something I could have found in seconds.

 

No kidding? Im gonna add that one to my list of "goofy things to check" next time I encounter a mystery problem like this. Still no reply on if this worked though huh? I was hoping to have heard something by now, unless it did work and he's happily cruising his Max right now

 

Checking The Oil and Fuses is Just Good Practice, You should do it even when you arnt working on the car. I remember back when i first got my max, the ABS light would stay on and being 16 i wasnt aware that that was a bad thing. Yes, we all start somewhere. I checked the fuses the Day Before a HUGE storm in which the ABS proablably saved me and a carload of friends lives. Maintinance is the key to a healthy vehicle, the sooner people learn that the better.

 

Agreed 100% but this isnt exactly your usual go over the fuses after doing some work....them fuses hes talking about arent exactly ones that would worry about after installing a radio or something.

 

all right guys, sorry for no replying. but here is wats going on. my old injectors, i threw 3 of them right away becusae they were in really bad condition, and had 3 left...the new ones were put on and didnt spray, so i put the 3 old ones on, and they DID spray....so i need another pair of injectors....so i ordered new ones, and they should be here by friday YAY!!! lol. also, whlie everything is taken apart, i decided to change the knock sensor since its broken, i got the A100...

meanwhile, i gotta drive this........thing...


Kidding, i wish i drove that...thats a Supra Turbo that some lucky guy owns that still lives with his mom....LOL

meanwhile, while my maxima is out of comision, i gotta drive this CRAP....


sorry for the crappy pictures, but its a phone camera..

this ford suck. 2.0 with 115hp when it was new, but now its like 2hp. barely moves. lol and its not even that economical

i'll be back when my injectors arive

 

im unclear on something... you said you disconected everything while your key was on and wonder if that would effect anything. i am assuming that you left the battery connected also ? if that was the case, do not do either of those things again to prevent the risk of shorting sensors, throwing codes...oh, and that red hot shiat that happens when spark and fuel meet.... just sayin

 

i thought it would throw a code but it didnt. so im all good...just waiting for my parts

 

today i received locknuts injectors, put them on, put everything, took me like a hour, trying to start the car,,,,battery dead....charge it, and cranks, but doesn't start.......i look, camshaft sensor disconnected....connect it, reset the computer, and it started right away....then in 5 seconds, there was massive smoke out the exhaust, this is because the last injectors flooded the engine and were in the exhaust.....let it run for 2 min, smoke clears...drive car around neighborhood, and fall in love with it again lol...

 

Nice! For some reason I saw the Contour in that photo and automatically assumed it was an SVT Contour, I was like niiicceeeee...oohhh plastic hubcaps uh oh EDIT: and crap written on the windsheild, I didn't notice that till just now LMAO.

 

that was the worst 3 weeks of my life lol...0-60 i tested it got 15 seconds...pathetic. everything rattles lol...i hate it, but i guess becuase of it i tried to do everything faster. lol to get rid of it...

 

so would i be intitled to the $20?? glad to hear you getting it up and going man glad i could help. just out of curiousity did you just hook up my whole fuel rail or did you take out seperate injectors???

 

yeah...you get the $20..I'll send it asap lol....used everything you sent me lol...the fuel rail, and injectors....i just took out the single connector.

 

Quoted For Truth

 

I have one bad fuel injector (I think).
Here's the story: The ECU code showed "knock sensor" and "#5 cylinder misfire." I switched the coil on #5 (with #3) and reset the ECU. The code still showed "#5 misfire" and "knock sensor." Then I switched the #5 and #3 spark plugs and reset the ECU. Now the ECU code just shows #5 misfire. So, having ruled out the coil and spark plug, I guess it's my #5 fuel injector that's causing the problem (rough idle, rough acceleration).
Do I have to take out the fuel injector or is it worth trying some commercial injector cleaner? If I do have to take out the #5 injector, can you direct me to step by step instructions?
Thanks much.

 

well wat it also dependes where the injector is...im not sure, but if im correct, #5 is in the rear, and for that you need to remove the intake manifold, wich takes me like 20 min, but for a noob, it'll take you like 2 hours if its your first time doing this.....but anyways, there are 2 bolts on each rail that the fuel rails in place...they are either 10mm or 12mm....take those out, disconnect the fuel hoses, and pull and pull....there is presure in the lines, so its going to be hard...after that, there are 2 screws that hold injector on the top, uncrew that and pull ur injector out carefully...mines was hold in tight, i broke 1 of them, but i had extras...so carefull.......and if u want to take out 1 injector, you dont really have to unscrew the fuel rail...


feel free to ask if u got any other questions...

and if u need a injector, i got a couple laying around.

 

I take it you don't think it's worth trying an injector-cleaning additive. Do I have to actually replace the fuel injector, or can I clean it and replace the o-rings?
Thanks.

 

It depends on if the injector is indeed the problem, misfire codes are detected by the crankshaft position sensor determining whether or not combustion happens in each cylinder because it can see when the crank speeds up and slows down each time a cylinder fires. So anything related to Intake, compression, fuel, spark, and exhaust can cause a misfire code. As you can see, there is hundreds of things on that list. But it's safe to say that in your situation it's probably the injector, but if it were me I'd flip it upside down and watch it spray and if it didn't I'd double check power and ground using a NOID LIGHT ONLY. But that's just me......

Anyways, pull an injector from a yard, they won't charge you crap. I wouldn't bother cleaning it, that's probably not the reason for failure anyways.

 

the only time I've had problems with injectors, the resistance was way up. It should be in the 14-17k ohm range (iirc). I had some that were 25ish and didn't work, and then one was in the 200k range

 

Hey guys,

Great info was found here, I replaced #1 cylinder injector without any problems. Thank you everybody.

BTW
I still have active CARFAX account, so in case somebody is looking to buy a car and need to do a Vehicle history report go ahead and send me the VIN at my e-mail address.