Parasitic Drain-Help
03-19-2010, 05:58 PM
#161
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 77
I found my problem! The key cylinder switch in the trunk was there and plugged in, but hanging loose. I put it on the cylinder, closed the trunk, locked the car, and everything seems to be working the way it should be!
10-31-2010, 07:41 AM
#163
I know you have several posts going if you can list what is happening maybe we can provide some suggestions.
10-31-2010, 03:15 PM
#164
Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 294
okay, here's my situation..after reading this great forum I was able to narrow down the problem to the BCM fuse, from which I gather controls the locks on the doors and security.
The problem I am having is that my battery is completely drained after 1 day sitting outside un-driven. The battery is new, the starter is new and the alternator is in great working shape. Verified that when the car is on, the battery is properly charging.
After reading this forum, I bought myself a multi-meter and started to test all the fuses. With all the doors locked and everything off (with the exception of the hood being open) I checked the amps which read .34 on my other maxima it reads .06 So I know for sure that it's very high. I started pulling out all the fuses one by one including the ones under the hood (left side). When I pulled the BCM (7.5a fuse)
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/2310/img1396bcm.jpg
the amps dropped to .06.
Reading more on this great site, I checked the trunk cylinder (where you put the key in) and I saw the switch, I disconnect it but the amps didn't drop (I put back the fuse when I disconnected the trunk cylinder), I also disconnected the hood switch and nothing happened (amp still high), so before I go on checking the door panels, my question is, should the amps drop when the switch is disconnected (or will it not matter and the amps will not drop because the car in not in sleep mode..).
Also, the security light was removed a few years ago because I needed that space for my radar lights, that security light was just a plug..I'm hoping that this isn't the problem.. (The battery drain may have existed since then, but I cannot tell as I drove the car daily...it just that now, I'm not driving it as much and is being noticed).
Any additional help is appreciated.
Thanks
The problem I am having is that my battery is completely drained after 1 day sitting outside un-driven. The battery is new, the starter is new and the alternator is in great working shape. Verified that when the car is on, the battery is properly charging.
After reading this forum, I bought myself a multi-meter and started to test all the fuses. With all the doors locked and everything off (with the exception of the hood being open) I checked the amps which read .34 on my other maxima it reads .06 So I know for sure that it's very high. I started pulling out all the fuses one by one including the ones under the hood (left side). When I pulled the BCM (7.5a fuse)
http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/2310/img1396bcm.jpg
the amps dropped to .06.
Reading more on this great site, I checked the trunk cylinder (where you put the key in) and I saw the switch, I disconnect it but the amps didn't drop (I put back the fuse when I disconnected the trunk cylinder), I also disconnected the hood switch and nothing happened (amp still high), so before I go on checking the door panels, my question is, should the amps drop when the switch is disconnected (or will it not matter and the amps will not drop because the car in not in sleep mode..).
Also, the security light was removed a few years ago because I needed that space for my radar lights, that security light was just a plug..I'm hoping that this isn't the problem.. (The battery drain may have existed since then, but I cannot tell as I drove the car daily...it just that now, I'm not driving it as much and is being noticed).
Any additional help is appreciated.
Thanks
10-31-2010, 06:31 PM
#165
I checked my 98 SE which works normally and does not have this problem. I opened my hood and checked current with everything else off and closed. The draw was approximately 0.1 Amps = to 100 milliamps. This is the same as Matt's result. If I depress the switch that senses if the hood is closed after about 30-60 seconds the current draw goes down to about 0.01 Amps or 10 milliamps. This must be the sleep mode kicking in. That is quite a a difference. I can understand if another switch from the alarm system is malfunctioning, of missing, the car would never go into sleep mode.
I'm not certain if the 0.1 Amps is enough to drain the battery over the period of 1-2 days but you certainly should fix it to work properly as noted above so that it does go into the sleep mode.
I'm not certain if the 0.1 Amps is enough to drain the battery over the period of 1-2 days but you certainly should fix it to work properly as noted above so that it does go into the sleep mode.
The key is that the car must go into the sleep mode. The amps will not drop untill it goes in sleep mode. Does your factory alarm work properly?
The BCM controls many functions in the vehicle including the alarm system. Pulling that fuse disables a lot of functions so it's hard to narrow things down.
If you disconnect the hood and the trunk room lamp switches that makes the BCM believe they are both closed so that should have eliminated those switches as a cause.
If you have not already done so you need to check the trunk lid key cylinder switch that has caused this problem for people.
Last edited by Nopike; 10-31-2010 at 07:00 PM.
11-01-2010, 07:12 AM
#166
Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 294
If you disconnect the hood and the trunk room lamp switches that makes the BCM believe they are both closed so that should have eliminated those switches as a cause.
If you have not already done so you need to check the trunk lid key cylinder switch that has caused this problem for people.
If you have not already done so you need to check the trunk lid key cylinder switch that has caused this problem for people.
As for the trunk lid key cylinder, I checked it and I'm not sure what I should be seeing...the key works well and I can manually open and close the trunk with the key...
11-01-2010, 09:39 AM
#168
Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 294
1.I can't tell because I don't have a security light (see description above on why it was removed) and can't tell if I see a blink every 1 or 3 seconds. Maybe, with the security light disconnected the relay is not complete and thus no sleep mode.
2. Yes, I have held down the hood switch for over 1 minute and it did not go into sleep mode (everything was off)..and also tried disconnecting the switch ..yes I do test the amps properly with the battery neg disconnected...
A few things that I did not do yet is
- Disconnect the hood and trunk light switch and test amps
- Test the alarm by locking all the doors while inside the car, what a few minutes and try and open the car door manually and see it it honks.
thanks
11-01-2010, 10:21 AM
#169
so check if it work properly.
tape hood switch ( so it thinks hood is closed)
leave hood open
lock all doors
wait 30 second ( pre-arming) just in case wait 1 minute
release hood switch
enjoy horn and headlight disco
but remember it won't armor if trunk lock sensor is open , check it ,mine was open (Fall down from lock)
tape hood switch ( so it thinks hood is closed)
leave hood open
lock all doors
wait 30 second ( pre-arming) just in case wait 1 minute
release hood switch
enjoy horn and headlight disco
but remember it won't armor if trunk lock sensor is open , check it ,mine was open (Fall down from lock)
Last edited by mateusz1945; 11-01-2010 at 10:25 AM.
11-01-2010, 10:23 AM
#170
It would be best to find the cause of the problem but if all else fails you could consider running two wires and a switch in series with that BCM fuse and just turning off the switch when you leave the car for any longer period of time. It's like removing the fuse.
That could be done relatively easily. But you alarm probably won't work.
That could be done relatively easily. But you alarm probably won't work.
11-01-2010, 12:13 PM
#171
Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 294
It would be best to find the cause of the problem but if all else fails you could consider running two wires and a switch in series with that BCM fuse and just turning off the switch when you leave the car for any longer period of time. It's like removing the fuse.
That could be done relatively easily. But you alarm probably won't work.
That could be done relatively easily. But you alarm probably won't work.
Tell me more about this "..consider running two wires and a switch in series.." do you mean having a little switch with two wires that run to the BCM fuse directly?
My car is at home so I'll try the alarm tonight..
THANKS!
11-01-2010, 01:20 PM
#172
There are several ways to do this, depends on how difficult it is to get at the BCM or you can run a wire to the fuse box under the hood, that may be easier.
Remove the BCM fuse, connect Wire 1 to one of the empty fuse sockets and wire 2 to the other socket. This way you still have a fuse in the circuit and you have added a cutoff switch to the BCM.
Wire 1*---------- *Fuse*--------------*Switch* ----------------* Wire 2
You can mount the switch somewhere under the dash.
Or remove the BCM fuse under the hood, find the solid pink wire running to the BCM, that is BCM power, cut that wire and add a switch between the wire you cut. This will have the same effect as removing the fuse.
Remove the BCM fuse, connect Wire 1 to one of the empty fuse sockets and wire 2 to the other socket. This way you still have a fuse in the circuit and you have added a cutoff switch to the BCM.
Wire 1*---------- *Fuse*--------------*Switch* ----------------* Wire 2
You can mount the switch somewhere under the dash.
Or remove the BCM fuse under the hood, find the solid pink wire running to the BCM, that is BCM power, cut that wire and add a switch between the wire you cut. This will have the same effect as removing the fuse.
Last edited by Nopike; 11-01-2010 at 01:50 PM.
11-01-2010, 02:01 PM
#173
It would probably be easiest if you can get at the solid pink wire and add a cutoff switch to it. The BCM is under the center console located below the stereo. Don't mistake the ECM for the BCM.
***** EDIT *** Before you go to the trouble of installing a cutoff switch why don't you just try removing the fuse and let the car sit a few days and see if it solves your problem.
***** EDIT *** Before you go to the trouble of installing a cutoff switch why don't you just try removing the fuse and let the car sit a few days and see if it solves your problem.
Last edited by Nopike; 11-01-2010 at 07:12 PM.
11-02-2010, 07:28 AM
#174
Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 294
Thanks guys for your ongoing help..
Okay so with all the doors and trunk locked and holding down the hood switch for over 1 minute, the alarm did not go on.
I also tried to disconnect the hood switch as well as the trunk cylinder switch and the amps did not go down.
I'm beginning to think that the security light switch that I am missing is not closing the relay loop and the alarm is not engaging or putting the car in sleep mode.
When the BCM fuse is pulled the amps drop to .06 so I know that the battery will not die.
Thanks
Okay so with all the doors and trunk locked and holding down the hood switch for over 1 minute, the alarm did not go on.
I also tried to disconnect the hood switch as well as the trunk cylinder switch and the amps did not go down.
I'm beginning to think that the security light switch that I am missing is not closing the relay loop and the alarm is not engaging or putting the car in sleep mode.
When the BCM fuse is pulled the amps drop to .06 so I know that the battery will not die.
Thanks
11-02-2010, 09:19 AM
#175
Security light is just to show alarm status. The alarm system should function just fine even with the light removed or burned out. It does not perform any additional functions. Regardless you could install it temporarily and see if it makes any difference. I would not expect it to.
Last edited by Nopike; 11-02-2010 at 09:22 AM.
11-13-2010, 05:45 PM
#176
Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Montreal
Posts: 294
Okay, I found my problem!
I took it to a bright mechanic after I couldn't isolate the problem after 3 weeks...within 5 minutes he found the problem and charged my $30 (which I happily paid).
He looked at the fuse diagram of the BCM after I told him that's where the problem was and he told me if I have an remote car starter...I had forgotten about it, so he checked it and pulled out a really burnt fuse( from the remote module)..the remote car starter can also lock the doors and I guess it was pulsating...even with the fuse out we tried starting the car and signal was getting to the remote starter module, so my best guess is that it was still alive and waiting for signals.
Once it was pulled, my amps dropped to .06 wooohooo!
Case closed.
I took it to a bright mechanic after I couldn't isolate the problem after 3 weeks...within 5 minutes he found the problem and charged my $30 (which I happily paid).
He looked at the fuse diagram of the BCM after I told him that's where the problem was and he told me if I have an remote car starter...I had forgotten about it, so he checked it and pulled out a really burnt fuse( from the remote module)..the remote car starter can also lock the doors and I guess it was pulsating...even with the fuse out we tried starting the car and signal was getting to the remote starter module, so my best guess is that it was still alive and waiting for signals.
Once it was pulled, my amps dropped to .06 wooohooo!
Case closed.
06-17-2011, 10:51 AM
#177
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 20
Hah! Awesome finding this forum and this thread!
I have a 1999 SE Limited I purchased new. LOVE this car. It's been in two accidents and been repaired beautifully and only has 100K miles. No issues until last Thanksgiving.
We went on vacation for a week and when I came home and tried to start it, nothing. Dead. Well the battery was probably five years old so I replaced it. Car worked fine. Another vacation over Christmas and SAME PROBLEM when I came back!
I took it to the dealer. I've spent $2K with them over the past two years, having my oil pan completely resealed, starter replaced, new brakes, etc. Like I say I love this car and spending a couple grand to have a safe, reliable daily driver is not a big ordeal to me.
I take it in to them and they test the battery, alternator, starter, etc. Everything. No issues whatsoever. They tell me to leave it for a few days. Well sure enough it doesn't start on the 4th day and they tell me I have a "bad cell" in my new Sears battery.
I'm really happy, don't get charged a cent, and head over to Sears to get my battery replaced. Sears tests my battery with a one-hour deep charge and tells me there are absolutely no issues with it. I take my same battery home.
I never went back to the dealership because they already told me I have no problems with my electrical system and diagnosed the problem as a bad battery cell. I'm not feeling confident about them.
The problem has only happened once again but that's because I use the car every day. I only put on around 5 miles a day taking my kid to school but that's enough to keep it starting every day. I carry a Costco jump starter in the trunk now for security and had to use it in my garage one morning after a long 3-day weekend of no driving.
My alarm works as advertised. Shut everything and arm it and it blinks about once every three seconds. Everything looks good with the trunk but when we were rear-ended three years ago I had a whole new trunk put on the car and I'm sure something could be wrong there.
This problem makes the car no fun to drive. I'm always a little worried in the back of my mind that it won't start. I just read through this thread once and it's a little out of my knowledge scope but I'll look at it again later tonight. I'll start with the MM and start pulling fuses, etc.
I appreciate that others are having this problem and how liberating it must be to get it resolved!
Thanks for posting all of this advice.
TommyBoy
I have a 1999 SE Limited I purchased new. LOVE this car. It's been in two accidents and been repaired beautifully and only has 100K miles. No issues until last Thanksgiving.
We went on vacation for a week and when I came home and tried to start it, nothing. Dead. Well the battery was probably five years old so I replaced it. Car worked fine. Another vacation over Christmas and SAME PROBLEM when I came back!
I took it to the dealer. I've spent $2K with them over the past two years, having my oil pan completely resealed, starter replaced, new brakes, etc. Like I say I love this car and spending a couple grand to have a safe, reliable daily driver is not a big ordeal to me.
I take it in to them and they test the battery, alternator, starter, etc. Everything. No issues whatsoever. They tell me to leave it for a few days. Well sure enough it doesn't start on the 4th day and they tell me I have a "bad cell" in my new Sears battery.
I'm really happy, don't get charged a cent, and head over to Sears to get my battery replaced. Sears tests my battery with a one-hour deep charge and tells me there are absolutely no issues with it. I take my same battery home.
I never went back to the dealership because they already told me I have no problems with my electrical system and diagnosed the problem as a bad battery cell. I'm not feeling confident about them.
The problem has only happened once again but that's because I use the car every day. I only put on around 5 miles a day taking my kid to school but that's enough to keep it starting every day. I carry a Costco jump starter in the trunk now for security and had to use it in my garage one morning after a long 3-day weekend of no driving.
My alarm works as advertised. Shut everything and arm it and it blinks about once every three seconds. Everything looks good with the trunk but when we were rear-ended three years ago I had a whole new trunk put on the car and I'm sure something could be wrong there.
This problem makes the car no fun to drive. I'm always a little worried in the back of my mind that it won't start. I just read through this thread once and it's a little out of my knowledge scope but I'll look at it again later tonight. I'll start with the MM and start pulling fuses, etc.
I appreciate that others are having this problem and how liberating it must be to get it resolved!
Thanks for posting all of this advice.
TommyBoy
06-17-2011, 11:45 AM
#178
Hah! Awesome finding this forum and this thread!
I have a 1999 SE Limited I purchased new. LOVE this car. It's been in two accidents and been repaired beautifully and only has 100K miles. No issues until last Thanksgiving.
We went on vacation for a week and when I came home and tried to start it, nothing. Dead. Well the battery was probably five years old so I replaced it. Car worked fine. Another vacation over Christmas and SAME PROBLEM when I came back!
I took it to the dealer. I've spent $2K with them over the past two years, having my oil pan completely resealed, starter replaced, new brakes, etc. Like I say I love this car and spending a couple grand to have a safe, reliable daily driver is not a big ordeal to me.
I take it in to them and they test the battery, alternator, starter, etc. Everything. No issues whatsoever. They tell me to leave it for a few days. Well sure enough it doesn't start on the 4th day and they tell me I have a "bad cell" in my new Sears battery.
I'm really happy, don't get charged a cent, and head over to Sears to get my battery replaced. Sears tests my battery with a one-hour deep charge and tells me there are absolutely no issues with it. I take my same battery home.
I never went back to the dealership because they already told me I have no problems with my electrical system and diagnosed the problem as a bad battery cell. I'm not feeling confident about them.
The problem has only happened once again but that's because I use the car every day. I only put on around 5 miles a day taking my kid to school but that's enough to keep it starting every day. I carry a Costco jump starter in the trunk now for security and had to use it in my garage one morning after a long 3-day weekend of no driving.
My alarm works as advertised. Shut everything and arm it and it blinks about once every three seconds. Everything looks good with the trunk but when we were rear-ended three years ago I had a whole new trunk put on the car and I'm sure something could be wrong there.
This problem makes the car no fun to drive. I'm always a little worried in the back of my mind that it won't start. I just read through this thread once and it's a little out of my knowledge scope but I'll look at it again later tonight. I'll start with the MM and start pulling fuses, etc.
I appreciate that others are having this problem and how liberating it must be to get it resolved!
Thanks for posting all of this advice.
TommyBoy
I have a 1999 SE Limited I purchased new. LOVE this car. It's been in two accidents and been repaired beautifully and only has 100K miles. No issues until last Thanksgiving.
We went on vacation for a week and when I came home and tried to start it, nothing. Dead. Well the battery was probably five years old so I replaced it. Car worked fine. Another vacation over Christmas and SAME PROBLEM when I came back!
I took it to the dealer. I've spent $2K with them over the past two years, having my oil pan completely resealed, starter replaced, new brakes, etc. Like I say I love this car and spending a couple grand to have a safe, reliable daily driver is not a big ordeal to me.
I take it in to them and they test the battery, alternator, starter, etc. Everything. No issues whatsoever. They tell me to leave it for a few days. Well sure enough it doesn't start on the 4th day and they tell me I have a "bad cell" in my new Sears battery.
I'm really happy, don't get charged a cent, and head over to Sears to get my battery replaced. Sears tests my battery with a one-hour deep charge and tells me there are absolutely no issues with it. I take my same battery home.
I never went back to the dealership because they already told me I have no problems with my electrical system and diagnosed the problem as a bad battery cell. I'm not feeling confident about them.
The problem has only happened once again but that's because I use the car every day. I only put on around 5 miles a day taking my kid to school but that's enough to keep it starting every day. I carry a Costco jump starter in the trunk now for security and had to use it in my garage one morning after a long 3-day weekend of no driving.
My alarm works as advertised. Shut everything and arm it and it blinks about once every three seconds. Everything looks good with the trunk but when we were rear-ended three years ago I had a whole new trunk put on the car and I'm sure something could be wrong there.
This problem makes the car no fun to drive. I'm always a little worried in the back of my mind that it won't start. I just read through this thread once and it's a little out of my knowledge scope but I'll look at it again later tonight. I'll start with the MM and start pulling fuses, etc.
I appreciate that others are having this problem and how liberating it must be to get it resolved!
Thanks for posting all of this advice.
TommyBoy
06-17-2011, 01:44 PM
#179
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 20
Thank you Sir! Good to be here and I am planning to purchase a 2011 Maxima SV in the next month or two so will have TWO reasons to be here!
It just occurred to me that my car problem only manifests itself after 3 or more days. I don't leave it at the airport for longer than that but in reading this thread it looks like I could park, open the hood, disconnect the positive battery lead and close the hood. PRESTO! No way for the battery to drain, right?
I don't care about presets and don't care if the alarm is on - that's the beauty of driving a non-descript 12-year old car with nothing in it!
Any issue with doing that? Thanks!
TommyBoy
It just occurred to me that my car problem only manifests itself after 3 or more days. I don't leave it at the airport for longer than that but in reading this thread it looks like I could park, open the hood, disconnect the positive battery lead and close the hood. PRESTO! No way for the battery to drain, right?
I don't care about presets and don't care if the alarm is on - that's the beauty of driving a non-descript 12-year old car with nothing in it!
Any issue with doing that? Thanks!
TommyBoy
06-17-2011, 02:01 PM
#180
Thank you Sir! Good to be here and I am planning to purchase a 2011 Maxima SV in the next month or two so will have TWO reasons to be here!
It just occurred to me that my car problem only manifests itself after 3 or more days. I don't leave it at the airport for longer than that but in reading this thread it looks like I could park, open the hood, disconnect the positive battery lead and close the hood. PRESTO! No way for the battery to drain, right?
I don't care about presets and don't care if the alarm is on - that's the beauty of driving a non-descript 12-year old car with nothing in it!
Any issue with doing that? Thanks!
TommyBoy
It just occurred to me that my car problem only manifests itself after 3 or more days. I don't leave it at the airport for longer than that but in reading this thread it looks like I could park, open the hood, disconnect the positive battery lead and close the hood. PRESTO! No way for the battery to drain, right?
I don't care about presets and don't care if the alarm is on - that's the beauty of driving a non-descript 12-year old car with nothing in it!
Any issue with doing that? Thanks!
TommyBoy
06-18-2011, 03:03 PM
#181
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (54)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Northern Jersey
Posts: 10,166
It was a great feeling to actually fix this problem and enjoy my car. I was to the point of not being able to leave it for a couple of days without it draining. And once the batt was drained and recharged a few times, it would be shot.
Not sure I could get used to connecting and dissconecting the batt every time, reseting radio channels, letting the computer re-learn driving maps. Def not fun, but to each his own
-matt
Not sure I could get used to connecting and dissconecting the batt every time, reseting radio channels, letting the computer re-learn driving maps. Def not fun, but to each his own
-matt
06-20-2011, 10:18 AM
#182
it won't drain it, but it's not going to solve your problems. get a regular multimeter and hook it up in line with either negative or positive battery cable to complete the circuit. turn it to mA settings and measure the drain after about an hour. if it's a huge drain(>10A) it might blow your multimeter's internal fuse, so be prepared to purchase another one. I forgot what a normal drain is. I think it might be around 4-7mA.
Then after you see how much it's draining, start disconnecting your fuses until you find what's draining it. Might be as simple as a lit bulb in the trunk or glove compartment. Either way, report back the numbers.
there is a ton of info online about this. just do a google search for "parasitic draw test"
06-20-2011, 04:30 PM
#183
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 20
you meant negative, right? it won't drain it, but it's not going to solve your problems.
get a regular multimeter and hook it up in line with either negative or positive battery cable to complete the circuit. turn it to mA settings and measure the drain after about an hour. if it's a huge drain(>10A) it might blow your multimeter's internal fuse, so be prepared to purchase another one. I forgot what a normal drain is. I think it might be around 4-7mA.
Then after you see how much it's draining, start disconnecting your fuses until you find what's draining it. Might be as simple as a lit bulb in the trunk or glove compartment. Either way, report back the numbers.
there is a ton of info online about this. just do a google search for "parasitic draw test"
it won't drain it, but it's not going to solve your problems. get a regular multimeter and hook it up in line with either negative or positive battery cable to complete the circuit. turn it to mA settings and measure the drain after about an hour. if it's a huge drain(>10A) it might blow your multimeter's internal fuse, so be prepared to purchase another one. I forgot what a normal drain is. I think it might be around 4-7mA.
Then after you see how much it's draining, start disconnecting your fuses until you find what's draining it. Might be as simple as a lit bulb in the trunk or glove compartment. Either way, report back the numbers.
there is a ton of info online about this. just do a google search for "parasitic draw test"
06-20-2011, 04:38 PM
#184
It doesn't, no.
It is, however, good practice to disconnect the negative first/reconnect last, so as to avoid a potential short to ground with your tools when removing the positive terminal. It only takes welding a wrench to a battery terminal once to be very aware of that.
It is, however, good practice to disconnect the negative first/reconnect last, so as to avoid a potential short to ground with your tools when removing the positive terminal. It only takes welding a wrench to a battery terminal once to be very aware of that.
07-30-2011, 01:13 PM
#185
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1
Well its a miracle, I found it !!!
It was that trunk switch. That switch is very unique. Its a switch that is ALWAYS pushed in by the key cylinder, and if the key clyinder is popped out, then the sensor activates and then the alarm goes off. Also there is a magnet on the arm that slides against the sensor as well to tell the alarm system that you opening the trunk. Without that sensor, even if its UNPLUGGED, the alarm will NOT arm and will NOT go into sleep mode. The sensor has NOTHING to do if the trunk is open or closed. ONLY if that cylinder is popped out by a thief and NEEDs to be in the car for the security system to activate and allow it to go into sleep mode.
I NEVER had this switch in the trunk. All that was there was the key cylinder. I took out the key cylinder, cleaned off the trunk a bit, put a coat of rustolium on there, and installed a new switch from nissan, and a new C sytle holder for the key cylinder.
After all is done I ran a parasitic draw test on the car, got .09 for about 45 seconds and it shot right down to 0.01 or 10 milliamps !! I also got a brand new Redtop battery in there. So all these troubles throughout the years and its finally fixed.
Thanks alot guys, here are some pictures of what I was left with.
-Matt
It was that trunk switch. That switch is very unique. Its a switch that is ALWAYS pushed in by the key cylinder, and if the key clyinder is popped out, then the sensor activates and then the alarm goes off. Also there is a magnet on the arm that slides against the sensor as well to tell the alarm system that you opening the trunk. Without that sensor, even if its UNPLUGGED, the alarm will NOT arm and will NOT go into sleep mode. The sensor has NOTHING to do if the trunk is open or closed. ONLY if that cylinder is popped out by a thief and NEEDs to be in the car for the security system to activate and allow it to go into sleep mode.
I NEVER had this switch in the trunk. All that was there was the key cylinder. I took out the key cylinder, cleaned off the trunk a bit, put a coat of rustolium on there, and installed a new switch from nissan, and a new C sytle holder for the key cylinder.
After all is done I ran a parasitic draw test on the car, got .09 for about 45 seconds and it shot right down to 0.01 or 10 milliamps !! I also got a brand new Redtop battery in there. So all these troubles throughout the years and its finally fixed.
Thanks alot guys, here are some pictures of what I was left with.
-Matt
THANKS! THANKS! THANKS!
Been fighting this one for years. I finally checked my cylinder latch, and found that the C switch was disconnected from the cylinder. Just pushed it back on and it finally goes into armed/sleep mode. This should fix the drain problem!
THANKS! THANKS! THANKS!
- Tom
03-10-2014, 06:56 PM
#186
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 5
According to the website below, 25 to 50 milliamps is normal. That is equal to .025 or .050 amps. It looks like you Max is drawing 100 milliamps which is equal to .10 amps. So sounds like yours may be on the high side. I'll try to test my Maxima tomorrow (hate losing my presets, but maybe if I work fast). If the current draw is excessive the next step would be to disconnect any aftermarket electronics and check the draw.
I searched the org but could not find any values for the Maxima, I know the information is out there.
http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain
I searched the org but could not find any values for the Maxima, I know the information is out there.
http://www.wikihow.com/Find-a-Parasitic-Battery-Drain
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