fender flares with a purpose?
09-30-2008, 07:40 AM
#1
fender flares with a purpose?
Hey everyone,
I recently posted a thread concerning wheels I was about to buy, a set of 18 x 8.5 Axis Reverbs with a +15mm offset. According to mainly blackonblack (extremely helpful), the fronts would stick out about 20mm and the rears a close 7mm. Now my question: has anyone attempted putting fender flares on a 4th gen? I'm repainting the car soon and getting as much body work done was possible. I would need some rear spacers but instead of buying some front camber plates, I would be willing to do the molding/fitting of the flares.
Anyone put flares on their maxi before??
***UPDATE!!!!***
Received the wheels today. Only took like 4 days to get here from Cali! Purchased from Wheelstudio and they look amazing already. Just need to mount and start measuring.
Props to wheelstudio for an insane deal. They gave me chrome valve stems and tuner lugs and even hubcentric rings!!!
So let this begin!
I recently posted a thread concerning wheels I was about to buy, a set of 18 x 8.5 Axis Reverbs with a +15mm offset. According to mainly blackonblack (extremely helpful), the fronts would stick out about 20mm and the rears a close 7mm. Now my question: has anyone attempted putting fender flares on a 4th gen? I'm repainting the car soon and getting as much body work done was possible. I would need some rear spacers but instead of buying some front camber plates, I would be willing to do the molding/fitting of the flares.
Anyone put flares on their maxi before??
***UPDATE!!!!***
Received the wheels today. Only took like 4 days to get here from Cali! Purchased from Wheelstudio and they look amazing already. Just need to mount and start measuring.
Props to wheelstudio for an insane deal. They gave me chrome valve stems and tuner lugs and even hubcentric rings!!!
So let this begin!
Last edited by shissqbob; 10-06-2008 at 01:30 PM.
09-30-2008, 08:47 AM
#5
i agree, there's really no great way to flare (that large at least) a solid rear beam. add to that it's fwd and you're in "chasing something it will never be" territory, but in some small asian countries that's what they have to do for lack of better options.
09-30-2008, 02:45 PM
#6
haha blackonblack, you're always coming to the rescue and solving my problems!! you know, that looks better and neater than I expected...maybe i'll consider this. I think the rear would look better if they could somehow continue to flare it to the bottom of the wheel well. To me, it's an eyesore just because it seems to end so abruptly.
However I don't think my wheels would be sticking out that far? So I could fabricate a flare that is maybe half to 3/4 the size those stick out and maybe it'd flow better..at least in the rear.
thanks guys
However I don't think my wheels would be sticking out that far? So I could fabricate a flare that is maybe half to 3/4 the size those stick out and maybe it'd flow better..at least in the rear.
thanks guys
09-30-2008, 02:47 PM
#7
yeah I like studied that pic and if that rear flare was a little closer to the car at the top (granted he did this to line up with the wheel) it would definitely look 'cool' and unique
09-30-2008, 04:53 PM
#8
theflare ends the way it does so it didn't have to blend into the kit. since that won't be an issue on a maxima (no kits like that one, and different rear 1/4 panel/bumper setup) you could probably pull of something a bit cleaner.
if you look at the stock fenders/quarters theres already a hump that could easily be modded to a subtle flare.
what type of drop do you have/have in mind?
if you look at the stock fenders/quarters theres already a hump that could easily be modded to a subtle flare.
what type of drop do you have/have in mind?
09-30-2008, 05:08 PM
#9
actually i just went outside not too long ago and was thinking about that hump in the stock fenders. how would you go about making that into a subtle flare? I was thinking about getting those fiberglass flares from ebay and cutting them down to not make it as wide. I currently have a drop on: Tokico blue struts and eibach springs so that yields 1.5" up front and 1.3" in the rear. When I do get these wheels though, I'm going to take some measurements with considering flares and also after they're on I'll see how much more of a drop I'll need.
Like I said, I already have a drop, I just want to see how much lower I'd need to go or if I'm currently fine.
Like I said, I already have a drop, I just want to see how much lower I'd need to go or if I'm currently fine.
Last edited by shissqbob; 09-30-2008 at 05:18 PM.
09-30-2008, 06:09 PM
#11
you know, you guys sure are giving me a lot of confidence to tackle this, but you know how that leads to $$$$$ haha. btw loud I was never a fan of VIP wheels but those things look sick.
P.S. blackonblack. are you done with your car yet?
and lastly, I've always wanted axis wheels. I was looking at the hiros but the price was just sooo steep. I like the reverbs bc they're only 20 lbs with the hollow spoke design. I love being an ebay shopper because I got all four BNIB (brand new in box) for $385.00 shipped from Cali!! This was also through a store! I couldn't believe it.
P.S. blackonblack. are you done with your car yet?
and lastly, I've always wanted axis wheels. I was looking at the hiros but the price was just sooo steep. I like the reverbs bc they're only 20 lbs with the hollow spoke design. I love being an ebay shopper because I got all four BNIB (brand new in box) for $385.00 shipped from Cali!! This was also through a store! I couldn't believe it.
09-30-2008, 08:31 PM
#12
what i would do is cut the metal over the hump bend it out and weld in filler plates. i'm not a fan of fiberglass. all metal ftmfw.
you defintely scored on that price. saved enough to afford to fit em.
my car? i don't even want to talk about it. 1 word: ike. 2 more: lay rocker. no promises at this point.
you defintely scored on that price. saved enough to afford to fit em.
my car? i don't even want to talk about it. 1 word: ike. 2 more: lay rocker. no promises at this point.
09-30-2008, 09:15 PM
#13
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 295
what i would do is cut the metal over the hump bend it out and weld in filler plates. i'm not a fan of fiberglass. all metal ftmfw.
you defintely scored on that price. saved enough to afford to fit em.
my car? i don't even want to talk about it. 1 word: ike. 2 more: lay rocker. no promises at this point.
you defintely scored on that price. saved enough to afford to fit em.
my car? i don't even want to talk about it. 1 word: ike. 2 more: lay rocker. no promises at this point.
You're looking at heavy reconstruction of the suspension. I've done lots of measuring for my juice setup, and it's going to definitely be in the 'whole new front tube clip' area. I just don't see it happening without a cantilever setup in front, and very possibly a bubbled hood. The rear should be easy enough, as the straight axle means you can cut and redo the floor.
That being said... GET TO IT!!!! CHOP CHOP!
And yeah, I definitely went a little out there with the wheels, but I like the fitment. Couldn't have asked for any better. My next wheels will throw some people for a loop, too.
I feel you on Ike, Black... my fam in Houston STILL doesn't have electricity!!!
10-01-2008, 05:29 AM
#14
<--- wants to see it lay out.
You're looking at heavy reconstruction of the suspension. I've done lots of measuring for my juice setup, and it's going to definitely be in the 'whole new front tube clip' area. I just don't see it happening without a cantilever setup in front, and very possibly a bubbled hood. The rear should be easy enough, as the straight axle means you can cut and redo the floor.
You're looking at heavy reconstruction of the suspension. I've done lots of measuring for my juice setup, and it's going to definitely be in the 'whole new front tube clip' area. I just don't see it happening without a cantilever setup in front, and very possibly a bubbled hood. The rear should be easy enough, as the straight axle means you can cut and redo the floor.
10-01-2008, 05:30 AM
#15
oh okay, so I'm guessing the cantilever setup is the whole deal with bags in the front..wait nevermind, then I get a hit on google with the suspension mounted in the rear inside of the car.
blackonblack, you have any pics of the build? that. really. sucks.
blackonblack, you have any pics of the build? that. really. sucks.
Last edited by shissqbob; 10-01-2008 at 05:33 AM.
10-01-2008, 06:04 AM
#16
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 295
Black and I both come from a more 'custom' background than most of the other guys on this forum, as far as the suspension is concerned.
A cantilever setup can be run either front, or rear. It's just a way of designing. It happens to be harder to run in the front, since it requires room where there often isn't any.
Front setup on a civic.
It's actually a cage:
Rear setup on a buddies accord.
Another accord's front clip.
And the same accord also runs a bubbled hood to clear the mounts... You can see it here.
Bubbles just let you have extra clearance. They are usually cut from Eclipse hoods, as they came with the factory bumps.
A cantilever setup can be run either front, or rear. It's just a way of designing. It happens to be harder to run in the front, since it requires room where there often isn't any.
Front setup on a civic.
It's actually a cage:
Rear setup on a buddies accord.
Another accord's front clip.
And the same accord also runs a bubbled hood to clear the mounts... You can see it here.
Bubbles just let you have extra clearance. They are usually cut from Eclipse hoods, as they came with the factory bumps.
Last edited by loud3; 10-01-2008 at 06:18 AM.
10-01-2008, 06:15 AM
#17
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 295
A good example of a cut and redone floor is here...
It's a honda civic hatch that runs a 22" wheel out back... and lays out. Pretty impressive.
Not a lot of cars can tuck like this. A LOT of geometry was used in the creation of the suspension.
It's a honda civic hatch that runs a 22" wheel out back... and lays out. Pretty impressive.
Not a lot of cars can tuck like this. A LOT of geometry was used in the creation of the suspension.
10-01-2008, 10:25 AM
#18
wow. I'm astonished. thank you for that education because that's some of the coolest information right there and i'll never look at a spring strut setup the same way, haha. I couldn't imagine messing that up..lots of $$ down the drain. Um, wouldn't I be able to get by with a regular setup, like that guy has in the beginning of this thread that blackonblack posted? I'm like 99% sure he doesn't have the cantilever setup?? Haha I'm starting the feel an automotive intellectual conversation in our presense, well at least yours.
10-01-2008, 01:04 PM
#19
you could definitely get by with a regular setup, although when dealing with custom fit flares it looks best when you are dropped lower than most springs will provide. the car i posted is on modified coilovers i believe.
the tube frames/bag and shock/cantilever setups are far beyond what any sane person would ever need. i need it though. lol.
the tube frames/bag and shock/cantilever setups are far beyond what any sane person would ever need. i need it though. lol.
10-01-2008, 01:31 PM
#20
alright, so I'm totally eliminating the bags setup, or maybe I'll go there when my engine magically resets mileage 
. I was thinking about it and, I mean, on a cheaper level, I had an idea. It would be hard, if not impossible, to do it with your method (cutting the orig. fender and welding behind). If I did get those fiberglass fender flares (I have a particular liking to working with fiberglass) couldn't I create almost an illusion?? If you think about it, all I really have to do is set the flare lower than the original wheel gap which would give the illusion of an even lower car (just looking at the wheel gap specifically). Is this not true??
Sure I'm being really cheap, but I'm just thinking logic over $$. What do you think?
. I was thinking about it and, I mean, on a cheaper level, I had an idea. It would be hard, if not impossible, to do it with your method (cutting the orig. fender and welding behind). If I did get those fiberglass fender flares (I have a particular liking to working with fiberglass) couldn't I create almost an illusion?? If you think about it, all I really have to do is set the flare lower than the original wheel gap which would give the illusion of an even lower car (just looking at the wheel gap specifically). Is this not true??Sure I'm being really cheap, but I'm just thinking logic over $$. What do you think?
10-01-2008, 01:50 PM
#22
definitely do able, and actually not a bad idea. when i think about stuff like this its always accounting for being slammed. for a functional ride height car that should work well, you just need to find some long flares that will blend in well.
ftr, you don't have to do all that to have air. that's the extreme of the extreme.
ftr, you don't have to do all that to have air. that's the extreme of the extreme.
10-01-2008, 03:58 PM
#24
Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 30
i officially decided if i were ever to bag the max there is no way, no how i am doin it myself. All my buddies in my car club keep telling me i should bag it, and i know i dont have to go to that extreme, but it still seems like WAY too much work.
10-01-2008, 05:13 PM
#30
10-01-2008, 06:02 PM
#31
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