Capitone

iTrader: (1)

Story: Since weather's cooled down, I've been getting an on again, off again battery light in dash. Been about 3 times in the last 7 days.

Each time this happened was early in the morning when temps were lowest. Each time I opted to take my bike to work instead. When I get home and attempt to trouble shoot, car would start right up and no light present. Temps are warmer during this time.

What happened: Today, same deal, but when I get home from work, car won't start at all. Had battery checked out and charged at Advanced Auto, placed back in car, but same deal.

Observations: When I turn the key, the car doesn't give the typical "Chuga-chuga" you get from the starter trying to roll the engine over. The sound is more like a "Chhhhhhhhhh". Really weird. Starter is a little over a year old.

I have over 260k on the max and the alternator is still factory only the belts are new (gotta love this car), however if the alternator was bad, the car should still start up with a fresh battery. Im thinking starter, but man would it be premature for failure.

Opinions appreciated.

Capitone

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I assume you're saying that the battery passed the load test?
most parts places don't have a clue what they're doing.
You cannot check a battery if the voltage is below 12.4
You cannot check a battery if there is a surface charge on it.
If your battery was dead or low, it would have failed their test,
we need more info on what happened when you took it to Advance Auto.

We also need a better description or video of this noise you're talking about, but if its 'whirring' and not engaging, its 90% a bad starter solonoid

Capitone

iTrader: (1)

AAP said the battery was good.

I've no way of recording the noise I'm hearing, so all I've got is description. Definately not a whiring sound. It is quite linear, no peaks like one normally gets when trying to start a car.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

so the engine isn't even trying to turn over, all you hear is this noise?

Is it electronic? ie. clicking, whine, etc.
is it mechanical? grinding, etc.

A better description or further diagnosis is necessary here man.

Also, do some searching, there is countless info on no starts in these forums, you're problem has been covered, I assure you.

nismo97se

record a video of what it sounds like

Capitone

iTrader: (1)

Correct no turning over at all. The sound isn't clicking, or grinding. I've experienced those before. I guess you could call it "electric" sounding in a way. Dunno, I really don't know how else to explain it.

Please don't assume that I didn't search. I have, but you as you all should know the search feature for the org is inoperable without donations. Google, yahoo ect...brings up hits, but nothing that speaks specifically to my problem. Yes, "car won't start" is a very common issue, but my issue is unique. At least unique enough to have great difficulty zero'n in on a productive buzz word. "Chhhhh" doesn't cut it, I agree, but that is all I have. This happens from time to time, I assure.

That said, I'm confident my issue deals with the starter as you alluded to earlier. I thank you for your feedback as it only reinforces my own initial suspicions. I've just never heard a starter make that sort of noise before. This is where I'll begin trouble shooting. If this leads no where, I'll post again.

-Capitone out-

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Poor battery connections.
Poor connection to starter.

Check for battery voltage at the starter solonoid.
Have someone try to start the car and check for power to the trigger wire on the starter.

Post back what you find.

Capitone

iTrader: (1)

Update: Issue was indeed the solonoid. Replaced whole starter under warranty and she started right up.

Many thanks to you all for comments!

-Capitone out-

Snypa

iTrader: (35)

The best way to troubleshoot this is to get a jump from someone. I was in a similar situation this pass weekend. So if you get a jump and it still doesnt start, that will limit down somethings for you, like the starter.

DaveInDaytona

I've been searching the "no start" threads and this is the closest but not exactly it. I don't get anything, no click, noise, nothing.

Battery is good but I tried a jump anyway from where it stopped by someone offering help, AAA wrecker driver thought it could be the alarm lockout (factory setup only) but I'm not sure about that.

Lights are good, no check light, but when you turn the key to start... nothing. Lights don't change, no noise, nothing, it's like you haven't turned the key.

I'm going to go after it soon but I thought I'd ask the question here in case someone had a place to point me. I would have started a new post, but you can see my count. It's a 97 SE and is completely stock.

Thanks

hardincah

iTrader: (9)

Engine control fuse/relay???? Have you checked that?

DBear

Do the dash lights go on when you turn the key?

Capitone

iTrader: (1)

If your dash lights come on when you turn the key, it may just be your classic bad starter. If you know where your starter is, get to it and whack it with something 2 or 3 times. If your car starts up, you've got a bad starter.

If you don't know where your starter is located, use this site as a reference:

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516

Let us know how it all turns out.

Capitone

gerns

I've got a similiar problem but when I turn the key I hear the relay click but the engine will not crank. I have replace the neutral switch but nothing still. Starter was tested at Autozone and it seems good...battery is good. I have electrical problems.

Capitone

iTrader: (1)

Did autozone test your battery along with the starter? If not, do so. If it's good, but needs recharging, look to your alternator. Definately sounds like a charge issue to me.

Curious to know what made you replace ur neutral switch before troubleshooting the other stuff 1st? Did you leave some details out? Is your clicking relay the reason you say you have electical problems? More info please...

-Capitone out-

DaveInDaytona

As I put in the original post all the lights look normal, even the dash lights.

Hopefully I will get over to where it was towed (AAA tow to a place close)and check it out today. My schedule was slammed last week so today is the first one with a little free time.

I will post the results, thanks for the replies, I really appreciate it.

DaveInDaytona

Got to the car this evening, put in the key and it started right up, no issue at all.

I did try turning it off and restarting it a few times and a couple times the starter was very sluggish so I'm still thinking it's time for it to be replace. At least I can get it home and do it there. I'll put an update later if anyone is interested. Thanks again for the replies.

Capitone

iTrader: (1)

Definately sounds like a bad starter. If it goes out again before you get to change it, a simple whack or two should get it going. I did my old starter this way for close to 6 months before it went completely kaput.

DaveInDaytona

I replaced the starter and haven't had any more issues, yet. I've been working on cars a lot of years and never had one just do nothing, no click or anything, and then go back to working fine like that. It was actually working when I took it out.

Thanks again for the help. Now I need to look at the CV's.

fixerupper10

HAHAHA wow you guys are hilarious you say its so many advanced things when really its your battery thats the issue i had this prob last week and it was cause my battery was dead it wouldnt start at all at first but after letting it sit a night it made that same noise that noise your hearing is your spark plugs going off but the battery is so dead the fuel pump wont do its job. heres what you do take your battery to walmart buy a new one and recycle the old one and plug the new one in your car should start right up withought and issue. thats why that light pops up in the morning when it gets cold out batteries lose there charge a little and thats why your light popped up but when it warms up the charge comes back trust me its just your battery dont go and have it tested and charged thats just a waste of money go and get a battery from walmart i got one and it has a 3 year warranty on it so then if the car still dosent start you can go and get your money back as long as you have the receipt

any other problems after you try this pm me and ill look through some stuff cause maybe its something else relating to your electrical system

DaveInDaytona

The battery was replaced smart guy. Thanks anyway.

fixerupper10

no you said you had it taken to autozone and had it tested and charged not replaced. having a whole new battery put in is completely different than having it tested and recharged. not all tests from a system they have is completly true they just check the voltage and thats it they dont test if a cell in it has gone bad or if there is maybe something else wrong with it. trust me it you just get a whole new battery your problems are solved

DaveInDaytona

May want to look again and see where I said anything about Autozone, because I didn't.

fixerupper10

ok sorry wrong place advanced auto not autozone but still they all have the same testing machines and none of them actually check the whole battery unless the thing actually takes the whole battery apart and checks every inch of it for flaws. this is why im saying go to walmart and do what i did

DaveInDaytona

<----------- that user said nothing about any parts store anywhere.

CRiME

iTrader: (21)

are you talking about?

Capitone, the original poster said he had his battery tested at Advanced Auto Parts. His problem ended up being the starter solenoid, which he fixed by replacing the entire starter.

DaveInDaytona has a different problem and never mentioned anything about having his battery tested anywhere. In fact, he said he replaced the entire battery.

Dave, if your problem pops up again after the starter replacement, consider replacing the ignition switch. Usually if you're getting nothing at all from under the hood, this is the item that needs to be replaced. With a bad switch, as well, Sometimes the car may only start with some 'jiggling of the key'. The part costs about $18.

DaveInDaytona

Wow, someone that can actually read !!!

OK, hopefully that got it, but the ignition switch makes a lot more sense for this problem so if it pops up again I'll look there.

Capitone

iTrader: (1)

CV joints aren't too tough of a job if your thinking of DIY'n it. The biggest Bish (at least for me) was the retaining nut. I've broken no less than 4 breaker bars trying to get the driver side bolt loose. Everything after that was pretty straight forward. Again, the motorvate link earlier in this thread would be very helpful.


Good luck!

Capitone

DaveInDaytona

I really didn't think it would be too bad either. I have all the tools including an an air impact that's very stout so breaking nuts isn't a problem as long as I can get to them.

I have a shop here that's making it tough to not just let them do it. Luckily unlike a starter issue this one I can think about for a bit.

I'll check out the link too, thanks again.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

You're an idiot.

Axl1969

OK, I am going to add one to this. I have a 98 that has a cranking problem. I changed the altenator belt, started the car and it started just fine. the next time I went to start it I got nothing, I checked all the fuses and relays all good. Tried juping it, same thing. Got a new battery, same thing. this same thing happened a couple years ago when a friend replaced the starter( I was out of town) he said it was something with the security system. I dont recall what it was and can not ask him since he moved and has since changed his number. Any ideas?

Capitone

iTrader: (1)

When the problem happens and you try to crank, do you get anything at all? Lights? Noise of anykind? You'll need to provide more info to assist with possible diagnosis, but given what you've written thus far, you may want to check and make sure that your steering wheel has locked the next time this happens. I don't know why, but sometimes when you park and your wheels are pointing too far to one side your steering wheel won't lock when you shut down and take the key out. For whatever reason, this can sometimes cause your car not to crank at all, untill you manully turn the wheel enough to lock it. Has happened to me a few times.

Maximus929

Hello just thought I'd cut in. I've been having the same problem I just brought a 96 max about 3 months ago and I went in and tried to change the clutch out and while it was still up in the air I tried to start it that's when my headache began I can start it and it crack over real strong but it will not start. PLEASE HELP

Capitone

iTrader: (1)

How many times have you tried to start it? Im unfamiliar with all that encompasses clutch work, but if it inolves messing with your gas lines, you may need to keep trying until you get enough gas through the lines. Outside of that, make sure the work you did to the clutch is all good. Can't really offer you much on this one. Again, I've never done clutch work, so I may be way off.

Hopefully someone else can offer you some help. You may need to provide more details though. Don't forget to search if you haven't already.

Welcome to the org,

Capitone