I can't seem to figure this out. The symptom is when I turn the key all the way I get nothing. After jiggling the key in the ignition lock a few times it will turn over. I changed the ignition switch a month ago and though the screws on the back were a little loose. I tried tightening them but the one screw on the top is obstructed by the dash board. I tightened it as much possible but still uncertain. I have a grounding kit that's been on the car for year and half at least.

What should I do. Thinking it might be a grounding issue. But I'm also thinking the ignition cylinder is no good anymore. This is getting annoying any help will be appreciated. Its harder to start when its colder which tells me its temperature related.

 

is your battery holding a good charge?

 

battery is 2 months old. Alternator is less than a year old. Its a nothing effect.

 

If the ignition switch is OK check the condition of 1) clutch interlock switch 2) clutch interlock relay 3) theft warning relay. You can remove the relays and inspect them if there is another relay of the same color/type you can try swapping them just to test. Sometimes just a bad connection at a relay can cause problems, look for corroded or burnt contacts. The clutch interlock switch, by the clutch pedal should move smoothly, you may try operating with you finger. Although I know lots of people add grounds. there are many possibilities for a no crank condition. It could be a faulty starter motor.

This is a list from the FSM of what needs to happen for you to get power to your starter motor.

Starting System Description M/T MODELS
For models with theft warning system
Power is supplied at all times
I through 30A fusible link (letter h , located in the fuse and fusible link box)
I to ignition switch terminal q1 .
With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
I through terminal 5 of the ignition switch
I to clutch interlock relay terminal 3 .
With the ignition switch in the ON or START position, power is supplied
I through 10A fuse [No. 17 , located in the fuse block (J/B)]
I to theft warning relay terminal 1 .
With the ignition switch in the START position, power is supplied
I through 7.5A fuse [No. 33 , located in the fuse block (J/B)]
I to theft warning relay terminal 3 .
If the theft warning system is not triggered, power is supplied
I through theft warning relay terminal 4
I to clutch interlock relay terminal 1 .
When the clutch pedal is depressed, ground is supplied to clutch interlock relay terminal 2 through the clutch interlock switch and body grounds M13 , M73 and M111 .
The clutch interlock relay is energized and power is supplied
from terminal 5 of the clutch interlock relay
to terminal 1 of the starter motor windings.
The starter motor plunger closes and provides a closed circuit between the battery and the starter motor. The
starter motor is grounded to the cylinder block. With power and ground supplied, the starter motor operates.
If the theft warning system is triggered, terminal 2 of the theft warning relay is grounded and power to the
clutch interlock relay is interrupted.
For models without theft warning system
Theft warning relay acts just as a path circuit between 7.5A fuse [No. 33 , located in the fuse block (J/B)] and
clutch interlock relay.

 

You definately have a problem with the ignition switch or someplace in the wiring at that switch.

 

I read to add some tape to the flanges b/c it might not be engaging. I'm going to try that as well. I have a spare relay for the inhibitor. Going to check relays and possible change it out.

 

I took the ignition switch out and looked at how the cylinder flange works. Its interesting that all you need is a flat head screw driver to turn the car on. Anyway. Yes if the flange side (MALE) which goes into the ignition switch (FEMALE) and is a little loose it may prevent the car from starting. To remedy the loose scenerio you want to make a tight fit between the male and female side. This can be accomplished by putting some tape on the male side and/or female side. This should shimmy the two tightly together.

I also checked the inhibitor relay and no corrosion at all. I'm crossing my fingers that this was the problem.

 

I think that the flange is the issue with our cars not starting intermittently, if the flange tabs are loose or worn a bit, it will cause this.

I have been having this issue for quite some time now. The giveaway for me was the fact that the way the key went into the cylinder, and that sort of dictated whether the car would start or not. Sometimes a wiggle would do it, some times a twisting pressure as I started the car.

I ended up using contact cleaner to wash-out the key cylinder and switch itself. I then added some electrical tape to my key (copied key, not a Nissan key) at the base, maybe 1/4", I trimmed it such that it would engage properly but push the tabs a part in the cylinder. I do have to push the key in with a little pressure, it maybe a bit too tight but it works.

I see a lot of folks have changed starter motor's relays, starter solenoids etc to still have the same problem.

This seems to be working for me so far. I will update accordingly if something else crops up.

Hope it helps,

Ben

 

I think I have a similar problem. Whenever I hold the clutch and turn the car on sometimes the starter will spin but not engage it seems. If I do it again after repressing the clutch it will turn on fine. I will check the relays as mentioned above.

 

If your starter is spinning all those relays/switches I mentioned above are OK. If there is a problem with any of those the starter will not turn at all. If the starter spins but does not engage I would definitely suspect the starter. You can check them but I just doubt it's going to help much.

 

I have a similar problem to what speed racer described, but I think I'm not as bad as him yet. When I turn the key, I have to turn it reasonably hard to get the starter to go. This is obnoxious whenever I let someone else drive my car, whether it's my girlfriend, a mechanic, or when I go to LA and have valets, because I always get told "your car won't start". Is there some way to fix this without having to replace the ignition switch...or is there some way to get a custom switch where I can use my existing key?

 

Also, I just want to say this forum is awesome. I have a 96 Maxima GLE with 142K on it. My dad only did oil chage/filter/air filter/tires etc maintenance on it until it was given to me a couple years ago, and just now I'm starting to have to do maintenance. Thanks to these forums, I've replaced the PCV valve, fuel filter, the positive battery cable, and am going to clean the throttle body/IACV this weekend. The community for Maximas is better than I ever thought it could be. Thanks!

 

ZachAJ--

Since it's an intermittent problem, the easy way to test is to just put tape on the flange and see if that fixes it. If you don't want to go to the trouble, keep trying the key when it doesn't start. I found that my car would always start, but sometimes it took 10 or 15 tries. That's when I figured out the tape trick, and it's started first time every time for the last year.

 

The ignition switch is purely electrical, nothing to do with changing the actual tumbler. Your key will still work fine...

Ignition switch:

 

Awesome, thanks! I'll try it this weekend!

 

is this a common problem for the 4th gen models?

 

Yes.

 

Just to confirm the advice here, I was also having to forcefully turn my key very hard for my 97 SE to start. Took your advice today and $30 for the ignition switch and 45 minutes later, it starts up every time with an easy turn of the key. Great forum. Thanks.

 

My wife has a 95 Maxima SE which has been having the same issue for at least two years now. We have chnaged alternators and replaced the ignition switch all to no avail. The other day we again took it to the shop, the mechanic had it for the better part of the day and could start it every time he tried. Later that night my wife went to trie it and again it would not start. I tried it and only by jiggling the key did it start. I then realized that the only difference from when the mechanic had it was that the mechanic had our secondary key. Sure enough when we use the secondary-not worn out key it works fine. The issue for us seems to be that the original key is 14 years old and worn down and will no longer do the trick.

 

Finally got around to doing this. Works perfectly now.

Notes:
1. The airbag system is a pain to disable. The instructions in the Haynes manual are to disconnect the battery (both leads), then wait 10 minutes. Then disconnect the 2 pin connector at the base of the steering wheel. At first I didn't want to do this, but I immediately saw how much I was going to be sitting in front of the wheel while banging various things.....and realized, yea, I don't want that going off in my face.
2. When taking off the knee bolster, there is a random 2 pin connector mentioned no where on the inside of the plastic bolster. I believe this is a theft deterrent thing. Be careful not to break it...squeeze the white plastic connector and pull to remove it.
3. I took off the switch and took it apart. I don't think the problem with mine was the male-female T thing. I did put tape on there just for kicks, but I took the white plastic off the ignition switch and saw how it works. There are 2 copper circles that rotate as the cylinder rotates, and they have bumps where they make contact to leads at various points. One of my copper bumps was badly worn down. I used a nail and hammer to bang it back to where it should be. I bet this is the reason a lot of people have problems with their switches, and 5 minutes with a nail and hammer to bang it back would save you ~$50. Thank you whatever Nissan supplier decided to use a cheap, but not too cheap, piece of copper for the ignition switch.

Thanks again everyone!

 

Interesting side note 2:

I have always been having a problem that it takes some cranks to start when off for a while. I thought it was the fuel pump backflow valve, the grounding, etc., but nothing worked. This fixed it.