Maxmia experts, technicians and enthusiasts this is a challenge for you.

I love my baby so much, thus when it is not feeling well it brakes my heart in pieces.(how poetic ).

So shell I begin, I am sorry it might be long, but that's the only way I can "put you guys in the swim" that you can pinpoint the problem.

I had the CE light for a while and than came the inspection time. It was showing all 3 02 sensors and KS. So I thought that is due to improper work of KS the engine was running rich, thus I decided to start with KS(it was chipper too). Finally I replaced the KS on my 99 calispec(that was real pain in the #$%$!!) http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/575566-knock-sensor.html
AS you can see below I took out the air filter, battery, pulled out a couple of houses. One of them was caring antifreeze and I clogged it with a napkin, when I came back the next day napkins weren't there(I hope it didn't just dissolve in antifreeze), than I took of my power valve actuator and that gave room to reach the KS, here some more photos too: http://picasaweb.google.com/yashasland/KNockSensor#

I couldn't fit the torque wrench, so I just tightened it just like that. After putting it all back together and starting the CE went out by itself in couple of seconds. It passed the inspection but still was throwing some codes, mechanic said something about speed sensor??? and temperature sensor and asked me if car ever overheated. I didn't pay attention to it because car was driving just AWESOME!!! I haven't felt such power from the day I bought it.
I don't know if it is connected, but I was missing my TB stopping screw and butterfly was closing too much, therefore my gas pedal would stock every time I would roll down the hill on neutral and car would give a jerk every time I switch the gear(I have a stick shift). So I got the screw and problem was solved.
Here where the problem starts. Couple days later I got my CE light back. I checked it yesterday and it was showing the 1st and second 02 sensor only. But today I've noised the temperature arrow goes up above the middle while driving and than comes back on idle. And the main thing, I have noised as if the car started to drive like before the KS replacement, also while idling it gives a jerk ones in a while, now I also got the same jerk in shifting gears as before and it jerks some times when I accelerate as if the MAF or gas supply sensor is not working properly. I don't know how it is should be but that antifreeze house that I pulled feels very hot(I can't keep my finger on it), I am really worried that I shouldn't burn anything and it also annoys me very much .

Please help me guys you are my hope!

 

Well the coolant hoses to the TB will be hot, that's just how it is. Hot coolant is flowing through them, so...

A slight miss at a stoplight could be a coil, or you might just need a tuneup.

How did you lose the set screw on the throttle body? Never seen that before.

The only reason your CEL wasn't lit after you replaced the KS was because you had the battery disconnected, it just took a while to throw codes again.

As far as the temp gauge, have you checked the coolant level? Has the system been bled properly? When's the last time the cooling system was worked on? Heater get nice and hot within a timely manner? Engine come to temp normally, or does it take a much longer time?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmohr

A slight miss at a stoplight could be a coil, or you might just need a tune up.

I excuse myself if I mislead you; the sticking gas pedal is solved; only a jerk while shifting and accelerating is there. What is included in tune up?
I've changed my spark-plugs with originals from dealer. Few month ago I replaced my 2nd ignition coil because it was misfiring, but then I got CEL together with noticeable drop of performance, the car was shaking like a mad man and it had no power. I've replaced PCV valve as well, Cleaned the TB and IACV, that's when I lost the set screw(don't ask me how) and the replacement one is from hardware store, but not from dealer, I don't think it matters due to its simple function.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmohr

The only reason your CEL wasn't lit after you replaced the KS was because you had the battery disconnected, it just took a while to throw codes again.

I am trying to remember but I am not sure if the CEL showed up and then went out or it didn't show up at all, but I drove for 60 ml before I passed the inspection and light didn't go on.

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmohr

As far as the temp gauge, have you checked the coolant level? Has the system been bled properly? When's the last time the cooling system was worked on? Heater gets nice and hot within a timely manner? Engine comes to temp normally, or does it take a much longer time?

The coolant level was low after the repair(maybe that's what the temp sensor was about), but I filled it up during the inspection. But I'll check it right now and I'll give you update later on.
I had an accident and the radiator was replaced last winter, other than that no work was done to it.
The engine (antifreeze, because that was the indicator on dash board is showing, right?) heats up normally, about 5 minutes idle if it is below 32F.

 

Have you checked the codes since then? And whats the idle doing is it just low or surging? Did you try cleaning your MAF i know that when it isn't reading right the car will idle very rough and will be jerky on acceleration. One of the crappy hose clamps on my short ram loosed up the other day and the coupler feel off after the MAF and the car was idling really rough and i ran the code reader on it (i keep one in my back seat lol). I got a misfire code, I cleared the code and looked under my hood and found the dislodged intake screwed it back in and didn't get the misfire code since.

 

I checked my codes yesterday, no I didn't check it since then. How do I properly clean the MAF, because when last time I did it, I had to get a new one; the car was acting erratically, when you accelerate it wouldn't go, but if a few seconds it will squeeze you in the seat, and so long and so forth.
Which houses are you talking about(pics would be a good idea, if u don't know how to post, just upload it somewhere and give a link), and BTW where can I get the code reader and which one is good and inexpensive?
I was idling low without the screw (500rpm), now it's about 650-700rpm. steady, some times it might go up to about 750. The idle is pretty smooth, I feel just a little vibration on steering wheel and a little more by transmission.
BTW about heating it is just opposite, it goes up (the arrow) a little when just standing and idling to like middle or sometime a drop above, and it is goes back while driving to just a drop below middle. I'll post pics tomorrow.

 

The antifreeze is basically within the limits, it's just in a middle of max and min, I'll add some more.

 

Not in the overflow tank, that's not an accurate view of how much coolant is in the system. How much in the radiator?

 

But how do I check the radiator level and how much should it be there. Should I open the valve on top of it when it is cold and fill it up full if it isn't?

 

Yes, just remove the cap and see how much coolant is there.

 

OK, I'll do it tomorrow, but how does it influence the performance?

 

It wouldn't, necessarily. It would influence your apparent overheating, though. The heater work well?

 

You mean the heat inside? I usually put the climate control on 82 and it blows with about 130-135F(I measured it with the meat thermometer lol) I don't know if it is too hot or it is normal.

 

Any ideas on my performance and CEL. Should I ran any other tests? Should I try to tune the MAF sensor, I found a write up on it but I do not fully understand how to do it. And now I can't even find it, it was a link to another website. If anyone knows about it please post it.

 

Sounds like the thermostat might be failing, or at the very least, the system needs to be "Burped." Even if the fluid level is correct, there could be air trapped inside, which would definitely keep the thermostat from working properly, hence the heating issue.

 

How exactly do I do it.

But the main thing WHAT'S WITH FREAKEN POWER LOSE? That's what drives mu nuts!!!

 

BTW my idle when the car is cold is also a little strange I think. I jumps to 2100-2200rpm than it goes down but keeps fluctuating by slowly going uo from 1500 to 2100 and dropping at once back to 1500 and so on for a couple of minutes. Than it settles down at steady 700rpm. Is anything wrong in it?

I am out of ideas.

It doesn't feel like a maxima when it goes lame. You know what I am talking about.