rear valve cover gasket-repair info
12-03-2008, 11:55 AM
#1
rear valve cover gasket-repair info
wats up org member's simple question, how much have u guys replaced ur rear valve cover gaskets for? and did u try doing it urself at all? and if u dont replace it how bad can the leak become thanks you all for ur time
12-03-2008, 12:18 PM
#2
I did it myself. Actually, that leak was the best thing that ever happened to my car - I used it as an opportunity to install the 00VI, since I had to remove the upper intake manifold to replace the gasket anyway.
Even with limited experience, I think you can get that job done in about 5 or 6 hours. Best approach for removing the upper IM? Just look at it, and start unbolting stuff until it comes off
. Sounds 
, but it's true . Label all of the vacuum hoses that you remove, and keep track of all bolts. The FSM has a bunch of diagrams that will help you to label things and get everything reconnected properly. If you decide to do it yourself post back here and I'll see if I can come up with the pages that I used when I did it. Be careful when removing the coolant hoses running into the firewall. The neck of the heater core is very brittle, and snaps easily. Be sure to replace the spark plug tube seals too.
If you don't replace the gasket, the leak can become pretty bad. There was a thread on here a while back where a member had a quick, steady drip of oil from the cover when the engine was running
.
If you choose to take it to a shop, I think you'll be looking at about $325 for the job..
Even with limited experience, I think you can get that job done in about 5 or 6 hours. Best approach for removing the upper IM? Just look at it, and start unbolting stuff until it comes off
. Sounds , but it's true . Label all of the vacuum hoses that you remove, and keep track of all bolts. The FSM has a bunch of diagrams that will help you to label things and get everything reconnected properly. If you decide to do it yourself post back here and I'll see if I can come up with the pages that I used when I did it. Be careful when removing the coolant hoses running into the firewall. The neck of the heater core is very brittle, and snaps easily. Be sure to replace the spark plug tube seals too. If you don't replace the gasket, the leak can become pretty bad. There was a thread on here a while back where a member had a quick, steady drip of oil from the cover when the engine was running
.If you choose to take it to a shop, I think you'll be looking at about $325 for the job..
Last edited by CRiME; 12-03-2008 at 12:31 PM.
12-03-2008, 12:35 PM
#3
I did it myself. Actually, that leak was the best thing that ever happened to my car - I used it as an opportunity to install the 00VI, since I had to remove the upper intake manifold to replace the gasket anyway.
Even with limited experience, I think you can get that job done in about 5 or 6 hours. Best approach for removing the upper IM? Just look at it, and start unbolting stuff until it comes off. Sounds , but it's true . Label all of the vacuum hoses that you remove, and keep track of all bolts. The FSM has a bunch of diagrams that will help you to label things and get everything reconnected properly. If you decide to do it yourself post back here and I'll see if I can come up with the pages that I used when I did it. Be careful when removing the coolant hoses running into the firewall. The neck of the heater core is very brittle, and snaps easily. Be sure to replace the spark plug tube seals too.
If you don't replace the gasket, the leak can become pretty bad. There was a thread on here a while back where a member had a quick, steady drip of oil from the cover when the engine was running.
If you choose to take it to a shop, I think you'll be looking at about $325 for the job..
Even with limited experience, I think you can get that job done in about 5 or 6 hours. Best approach for removing the upper IM? Just look at it, and start unbolting stuff until it comes off
. Sounds , but it's true . Label all of the vacuum hoses that you remove, and keep track of all bolts. The FSM has a bunch of diagrams that will help you to label things and get everything reconnected properly. If you decide to do it yourself post back here and I'll see if I can come up with the pages that I used when I did it. Be careful when removing the coolant hoses running into the firewall. The neck of the heater core is very brittle, and snaps easily. Be sure to replace the spark plug tube seals too. If you don't replace the gasket, the leak can become pretty bad. There was a thread on here a while back where a member had a quick, steady drip of oil from the cover when the engine was running
.If you choose to take it to a shop, I think you'll be looking at about $325 for the job..
took me around 8hrs but thats b/c of multiple breaks and what not.
just label everything, don't loose any of the screw and you'll be fine
make sure you use gasket sealant
12-03-2008, 12:41 PM
#4
My leak... from the rear VC... was quite severe. I was loosing nearly a half an ounce (1/2 of a shot glass) of oil per operating day. Oil was friggin pouring out. The longer you wait, the worse it's gonna get and it can get pretty bad.
12-03-2008, 12:51 PM
#5
It's a relatively simple job, but the rear support bolts can be a PITA if you don't have the right tools (or know how to do it quickly), same for the EGR-UIM bolts. There are only a few vacuum lines to deal with to the UIM; brake booster, FPR, EVAP, EGR. The 'hardest' part is going to be the rear coolant hose that runs past the EGR tube, just because you've got to get a tricky angle on it.
12-03-2008, 01:03 PM
#6
Last edited by CRiME; 12-03-2008 at 01:33 PM.
12-03-2008, 03:57 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 416
i used a simple combination wrench to get the two bolts on the bracket. I left the hoses on.
Mine was leaking real bad at this corner.
Make sure you replace the sparkplug tube seals, there the 3 black round things in the valve cover. I also placed my gaskets in the sun to heat them up. Don't forget the radio, i need tunes.
You might want to get a stillen hood support to prop up the hood straight up, it's a lot easier to work with hood straight up.
Mine was leaking real bad at this corner.
Make sure you replace the sparkplug tube seals, there the 3 black round things in the valve cover. I also placed my gaskets in the sun to heat them up. Don't forget the radio, i need tunes.
You might want to get a stillen hood support to prop up the hood straight up, it's a lot easier to work with hood straight up.
12-03-2008, 05:07 PM
#9
i used a simple combination wrench to get the two bolts on the bracket. I left the hoses on.
Mine was leaking real bad at this corner.
Make sure you replace the sparkplug tube seals, there the 3 black round things in the valve cover. I also placed my gaskets in the sun to heat them up. Don't forget the radio, i need tunes.
You might want to get a stillen hood support to prop up the hood straight up, it's a lot easier to work with hood straight up.
Mine was leaking real bad at this corner.
Make sure you replace the sparkplug tube seals, there the 3 black round things in the valve cover. I also placed my gaskets in the sun to heat them up. Don't forget the radio, i need tunes.
You might want to get a stillen hood support to prop up the hood straight up, it's a lot easier to work with hood straight up.
Definitely going to pick up one of those on my next Autozone run.
12-03-2008, 08:17 PM
#12
Why? Because there was no way that I was getting the rear pass. side UIM bolt off with the heater core line in place (I only had to remove the upper one). Others have had to remove it too. There simply wasn't enough room to get the ratchet on the bolt and turn it. Not everyone can get the UIM off with a set of pliers and a flat head screwdriver, you know.
(not being prepared FTL)
12-04-2008, 01:57 AM
#13
Honestly guys, after doing about a dozen of these i can have both done in less than 1.5 hours. But its really simple. There is no need for removing all the throttle body hoses and vacuum hoses and all that mumbo jumbo. All you really need to do is remove the harness, unbolt the 2 rear upper intake bracket bolts behind intake and firewall, remove 2 egr tube bolts also from behind intake, remove coils, throttle cable bracket and cables shoved under wiper arms, remove PCV hose from valve cover underneath intake near throttlebody and then just go ahead and lift the upper intake up towards the driver side and with some needle nose pliers remove the clamp and coolant hose from underneath the intake near the throttle body (youll see). Then simply flip the upper intake manifold over towards the driver's side strut tower and use a bungee to just hold it away, you don't even need to remove all those vacuum hoses. Then carefully remove the crossover breather hose that connects to both valve covers, this hose might actually be too brittle and could split so make sure to buy this hose with the new valve cover gaskets. Then remove the 10mm bolts on the valve cover, remove the cover and install new gasket. Clean mating surfaces and i use a light coat of some silicone between the gasket and head to prevent future leaks.
Thats basically it. I think flat rate only pays like 2.5 hours for the job.
Thats basically it. I think flat rate only pays like 2.5 hours for the job.
12-04-2008, 02:01 AM
#14
12-04-2008, 02:07 AM
#15
Is it 3? Dam, im gettin ripped lol. So that means your shop does their customer pay work @ 1.6 x warranty? We do anywhere from 1.3 to 1.5 x warranty depending on the job. Im assuming your a tech as well?
Oh, also forgot to mention. Might also want to look into replacing your passenger side transverse link (control arm) since the leaking valve cover has ruined your rubber bushing.
Oh, also forgot to mention. Might also want to look into replacing your passenger side transverse link (control arm) since the leaking valve cover has ruined your rubber bushing.
12-04-2008, 02:46 AM
#16
Those are AllData hours, all of the shops I've worked in (besides Nissan, of course) go by them.
12-04-2008, 06:31 AM
#17
I did it myself. Actually, that leak was the best thing that ever happened to my car - I used it as an opportunity to install the 00VI, since I had to remove the upper intake manifold to replace the gasket anyway.
Even with limited experience, I think you can get that job done in about 5 or 6 hours. Best approach for removing the upper IM? Just look at it, and start unbolting stuff until it comes off. Sounds , but it's true . Label all of the vacuum hoses that you remove, and keep track of all bolts. The FSM has a bunch of diagrams that will help you to label things and get everything reconnected properly. If you decide to do it yourself post back here and I'll see if I can come up with the pages that I used when I did it. Be careful when removing the coolant hoses running into the firewall. The neck of the heater core is very brittle, and snaps easily. Be sure to replace the spark plug tube seals too.
If you don't replace the gasket, the leak can become pretty bad. There was a thread on here a while back where a member had a quick, steady drip of oil from the cover when the engine was running.
If you choose to take it to a shop, I think you'll be looking at about $325 for the job..
Even with limited experience, I think you can get that job done in about 5 or 6 hours. Best approach for removing the upper IM? Just look at it, and start unbolting stuff until it comes off
. Sounds , but it's true . Label all of the vacuum hoses that you remove, and keep track of all bolts. The FSM has a bunch of diagrams that will help you to label things and get everything reconnected properly. If you decide to do it yourself post back here and I'll see if I can come up with the pages that I used when I did it. Be careful when removing the coolant hoses running into the firewall. The neck of the heater core is very brittle, and snaps easily. Be sure to replace the spark plug tube seals too. If you don't replace the gasket, the leak can become pretty bad. There was a thread on here a while back where a member had a quick, steady drip of oil from the cover when the engine was running
.If you choose to take it to a shop, I think you'll be looking at about $325 for the job..
12-04-2008, 03:05 PM
#18
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 416
Is it 3? Dam, im gettin ripped lol. So that means your shop does their customer pay work @ 1.6 x warranty? We do anywhere from 1.3 to 1.5 x warranty depending on the job. Im assuming your a tech as well?
Oh, also forgot to mention. Might also want to look into replacing your passenger side transverse link (control arm) since the leaking valve cover has ruined your rubber bushing.
Oh, also forgot to mention. Might also want to look into replacing your passenger side transverse link (control arm) since the leaking valve cover has ruined your rubber bushing.
12-05-2008, 10:46 AM
#21
i really wish there was a recall for this stupid problem, mine is leaking slow whn ever parked but i would rather fix it before it becomes worse than it is and i would like to get it done $200 or less
12-06-2008, 03:03 AM
#23
And where are you located? Theres not location under your avatar. I would do someones for 200 at home...
12-06-2008, 04:19 AM
#24
Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 118
+1. Make sure you follow the FSM on where to put sealant. Don't be a dumb @ss like me and not put. I have to plan for a 2nd time around.
12-14-2008, 01:44 PM
#26
had mine fixed today for $220 including $80 for parts and $140 for labor. but after i came home and looked underneath after 20 mins i saw oil on the ground again, my question is that is it normal to see oil underneath ur car for a couple of days or so even after getting the job done. thank you all
12-14-2008, 04:09 PM
#27
had mine fixed today for $220 including $80 for parts and $140 for labor. but after i came home and looked underneath after 20 mins i saw oil on the ground again, my question is that is it normal to see oil underneath ur car for a couple of days or so even after getting the job done. thank you all
But if you continue to have oil leaks that are severe and are from the same area chances are your rear timing chain o rings have turned to plastic and are leaking and/or your head gasket can be leaking in that small front corner.
12-14-2008, 04:13 PM
#28
It can be normal for some residual oil to run off for a few days especially if the mechanic didn't do a good enough job cleaning the area.
But if you continue to have oil leaks that are severe and are from the same area chances are your rear timing chain o rings have turned to plastic and are leaking and/or your head gasket can be leaking in that small front corner.
But if you continue to have oil leaks that are severe and are from the same area chances are your rear timing chain o rings have turned to plastic and are leaking and/or your head gasket can be leaking in that small front corner.
02-27-2009, 07:15 PM
#29
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 1
I got my valve cover gaskets replaced today, i guess i got a pretty good deal. i spent $230 for both. This other shop was trying to rip me off for $265 for just the rear. It seems rather easy to do, but i rather not mess with it
02-27-2009, 11:46 PM
#30
I wouldn't say the other shop was trying to rip you off necessarily, i would just say you got a better deal from another shop. Because 265 for just the rear sounds about right for dealership prices so.... you got a good deal. Thats assuming the mechanic did a good job.
08-18-2009, 06:01 AM
#37
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Martinez, CA
Posts: 12
Sorry if I'm thread-jacking this one... Got one question before I get into this job:
Problems: Both Valve covers have slight leaks, rear much worse (firewall side). Was trying to avoid this job, but now I'm forced to get in there.
What I found doing a spark plug change... last plug, far right (driver side rear) was full of oil, can't even see the plug, I'm not going to pull the plug until I get a turkey baster in there or something to syphen the oil out.
(suggestions?)
Question: Do I need to replace the o-ring seals? The ones that I see seated in the actual valve cover?
Problems: Both Valve covers have slight leaks, rear much worse (firewall side). Was trying to avoid this job, but now I'm forced to get in there.
What I found doing a spark plug change... last plug, far right (driver side rear) was full of oil, can't even see the plug, I'm not going to pull the plug until I get a turkey baster in there or something to syphen the oil out.
(suggestions?)
Question: Do I need to replace the o-ring seals? The ones that I see seated in the actual valve cover?
Last edited by sleepless; 08-18-2009 at 06:19 AM.
08-18-2009, 09:28 AM
#38
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 263
Yes, the one that failed definitely has to be replaced. In general when replacing the valve cover gaskets it's a good idea to replace the tube seals even if they aren't leaking yet.
08-18-2009, 03:36 PM
#40
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Waltham, MA
Posts: 3
Hey guys. I have a 97 Max with 394k miles on it. I am just now having the major oil leak fixed (valves). It can get pretty messy. The whole bottom of my car was covered in oil. I am having both done and its costing me almost $800.00.