loud rattle in morning start up...
loud rattle in morning start up...
ever since i got the car 4 years ago its done this, but not as loud. would it be the chain rattling against the guide making the noise?? once it warms up, its quiet, but i still hear like a clatter noise ( different area ) like the engine isnt lubricated well enough and its tapping. i'll try and post a video tomorrow. thoughts and advice please>>> thanks
TSB == Technical Service Bulletin.
Search, it's covered a lot around here.
I know mine does something like this when i start it up everymorning, it sounds like the oil takes like 2 seconds to start lubricating the engine. it almost sounds like my engine is knocking but only stays for like a sec or two and thats only when i dont start the car for like 6 hours+.
Yep ... TC tensioner - gone, done, kaput, no more working. lol It's not a fun job by any means, but it could be worse as well. You'll need to do as Pmohr says and get the updated tensioner and guide. There is tons of info on it if ya search. Some tips and tricks anyway. I'd recomend doing the water pump at the same time, no sense in not while you're that far into it already. There's also a write up (I think in the stickies) for the water pump. Have fun if ya do it yourself, look to spend ~3 or 4 hours on it. Remember when you go to let the engine down to place a chunck of wood under the oil pan.
Also, the other 3 mounts will hold it, not to worry.
Cheers!
Also, the other 3 mounts will hold it, not to worry.Cheers!
You should also get the metal gasket for the tensioner, about $5 from the dealer. If you don't want to replace the guide, you can just replace the guts of the tensioner (o-ring, spring & piston). There is a thread just a few days ago about this.
If you have small hands, there is no need to remove the engine mount. Just unhook the power steering hose (after removing fluid first) and move the reservoir out of the way. If you go this route, use plenty of paper tower to cover the belts.
You can use a flat blade screw driver to push the piston in, but I find a needle nose plier with the nose at 30% angle works much better.
Use Permatex black RTV (or equivalent) to seal the cover.
If you have small hands, there is no need to remove the engine mount. Just unhook the power steering hose (after removing fluid first) and move the reservoir out of the way. If you go this route, use plenty of paper tower to cover the belts.
You can use a flat blade screw driver to push the piston in, but I find a needle nose plier with the nose at 30% angle works much better.
Use Permatex black RTV (or equivalent) to seal the cover.
You should also get the metal gasket for the tensioner, about $5 from the dealer. If you don't want to replace the guide, you can just replace the guts of the tensioner (o-ring, spring & piston). There is a thread just a few days ago about this.
If you have small hands, there is no need to remove the engine mount. Just unhook the power steering hose (after removing fluid first) and move the reservoir out of the way. If you go this route, use plenty of paper tower to cover the belts.
You can use a flat blade screw driver to push the piston in, but I find a needle nose plier with the nose at 30% angle works much better.
Use Permatex black RTV (or equivalent) to seal the cover.
If you have small hands, there is no need to remove the engine mount. Just unhook the power steering hose (after removing fluid first) and move the reservoir out of the way. If you go this route, use plenty of paper tower to cover the belts.
You can use a flat blade screw driver to push the piston in, but I find a needle nose plier with the nose at 30% angle works much better.
Use Permatex black RTV (or equivalent) to seal the cover.
For a shop to do it for you .... LOL You're looking at probably a bill easy. $100 for labor + parts (~$40) so ... ~ $150 or close. Just do it yourself ... save your money, you'll thank yourself later for the exta $$$ and knowing that you could and did do it!
Yea, R&R the main tensioner is .9, but to do tensioner and guide is 11 hours, easy.
Oh no ... I wasn't thinking guide here at all ... that job is a MF'r and yea, for a shop to do it .. add a couple 00's to the tab. lol
I did my own at home, then I did one at the shop not too long ago. was easy for me after already doing one, but the bill was a bit over $150 when the job was done. That was just to R+R the TC Tensioner only. I think I also did a state inspection ($12) so ... still, not a chep job. And Like Pmohr said, the guilde is a PITA and a LOT more money at the shop.
I did my own at home, then I did one at the shop not too long ago. was easy for me after already doing one, but the bill was a bit over $150 when the job was done. That was just to R+R the TC Tensioner only. I think I also did a state inspection ($12) so ... still, not a chep job. And Like Pmohr said, the guilde is a PITA and a LOT more money at the shop.
Noob here looking to purchase a 97 or 99 maxima. Is the timing chain tensioner/guide wear problem on ANY 4th gen Maxima? Any year or trim 4th gen that does not have this? Looked through many threads and FAQ and could not find this. I did check out the service bulletin and it lists the specific engines but not vehicle year/model.
Thanks!
Paul Klusman
'91 3000GT VR4
'94 Geo Prism with custom blown head gasket (for sale cheap!)
'4th Gen Maxima!! (soon hopefully...)
Thanks!
Paul Klusman
'91 3000GT VR4
'94 Geo Prism with custom blown head gasket (for sale cheap!)
'4th Gen Maxima!! (soon hopefully...)
Last edited by klusmanp; Dec 14, 2008 at 11:02 AM.
First off .... welcome to the .Org but you're supposed to post these questions in the "noob thread". I know it's appropriate here too so ... it sort of pertains I guess.
In a word, Yes, all 4th gens have / will have this problem. All the same VQ30DE engine so .... it doesn't matter what trim level. All engines with chains have a tensinoer that is hydraulic and they all have seals in them. This means that they could all potentialy have issues.
If you're looking for a 4th gen, there are different problems with different years / models and all that info can be found with a search.
In a word, Yes, all 4th gens have / will have this problem. All the same VQ30DE engine so .... it doesn't matter what trim level. All engines with chains have a tensinoer that is hydraulic and they all have seals in them. This means that they could all potentialy have issues.
If you're looking for a 4th gen, there are different problems with different years / models and all that info can be found with a search.
I have an 02 maxima and it rattles at cold start-up for a few seconds like others experience. Trying to diagnose this, but think it is the TC tensioner. I see some people here stating it is not that hard and about $65 - but that was for the 4th gen.
For 5.5 gens - anyone know if it is as hard or difficult to do? I have searched the forums here and also read that even after getting it fixed, that it is like 50/50 that it will return with the same rattle.
I have lived with it for 1 year while having the car and it isnt that annoying, but thinking about selling my maxima and would like to have it fixed first.
For 5.5 gens - anyone know if it is as hard or difficult to do? I have searched the forums here and also read that even after getting it fixed, that it is like 50/50 that it will return with the same rattle.
I have lived with it for 1 year while having the car and it isnt that annoying, but thinking about selling my maxima and would like to have it fixed first.
I did the DIY rebuild (replaced spring and seal only). It did not work over the long term. Mine now eventually quiets down as the engine gets warmer and usually stops when the engine is going over 3K rpms even when cold.
Removing the timing cover and replacing the guide and tensioner with the redesigned (improved) part is the only real solution. But it is much more of a job than I care to do. My engine has 247K miles on it and I will sell it in a year, so I'll nurse it along and listen to the @#% rattle every morning.
Removing the timing cover and replacing the guide and tensioner with the redesigned (improved) part is the only real solution. But it is much more of a job than I care to do. My engine has 247K miles on it and I will sell it in a year, so I'll nurse it along and listen to the @#% rattle every morning.
My 95 Max does it on almost every start-up. Its last maybe a second. Dave B (the parts guy) said his 4th gen maxima has done it since the day he drove the car off the dealer lot brand new. He said don't worry about the noise on startup. The only situation to worry about it is when it makes the noise during regular driving. This is what he told me when I ordered a water pump from him so I decided to leave the old tensioner.
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