coil pack blew up? pics
01-16-2009, 06:42 PM
#81
Any updates for us ???? I think Mike has it .... don't know why nobody thought of that sooner. Good post mate and welcome to the .Org! 
I think the reason Advanced uses the "Nissan" tubes is because it would cost more to make new ones -vs- using the old tubes, the wiring and coil pack are likely new parts, but the boot is probably not.
I think the reason Advanced uses the "Nissan" tubes is because it would cost more to make new ones -vs- using the old tubes, the wiring and coil pack are likely new parts, but the boot is probably not.
01-17-2009, 08:05 AM
#82
01-18-2009, 12:00 PM
#84
coil problems
If you find out what is going on with this please let me know. I am having what sounds like the exact same problem. I have replaced 2 coils in the #2 hole and the 3rd is on its way out. originally the code was 0302, but now it is a 0607. Car sometimes starts and idles fine, but sometimes makes a lot of noise when 1st started.
When the coil finally goes, I get a flashing CEL. I have changed plugs, fuel filter, and 2 coils. I am going to clean the #2 injector and check the ground at battery as I had a problem with that before. Corrosion in the harness at the positive battery cable which has 2 leads like someone described in an earlier thread.
It seems to miss the most when under load just above 2000 rpm. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks,
Madmax8
When the coil finally goes, I get a flashing CEL. I have changed plugs, fuel filter, and 2 coils. I am going to clean the #2 injector and check the ground at battery as I had a problem with that before. Corrosion in the harness at the positive battery cable which has 2 leads like someone described in an earlier thread.
It seems to miss the most when under load just above 2000 rpm. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks,
Madmax8
01-18-2009, 02:30 PM
#85
If you find out what is going on with this please let me know. I am having what sounds like the exact same problem. I have replaced 2 coils in the #2 hole and the 3rd is on its way out. originally the code was 0302, but now it is a 0607. Car sometimes starts and idles fine, but sometimes makes a lot of noise when 1st started.
When the coil finally goes, I get a flashing CEL. I have changed plugs, fuel filter, and 2 coils. I am going to clean the #2 injector and check the ground at battery as I had a problem with that before. Corrosion in the harness at the positive battery cable which has 2 leads like someone described in an earlier thread.
It seems to miss the most when under load just above 2000 rpm. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks,
Madmax8
When the coil finally goes, I get a flashing CEL. I have changed plugs, fuel filter, and 2 coils. I am going to clean the #2 injector and check the ground at battery as I had a problem with that before. Corrosion in the harness at the positive battery cable which has 2 leads like someone described in an earlier thread.
It seems to miss the most when under load just above 2000 rpm. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Thanks,
Madmax8
01-19-2009, 10:08 AM
#86
I had a cyl 2 misfire cel when I bought the car. It hasn't come back since but i've been using premium fuel. The other day the tank was empty and I got just a squirt of regular and went on the highway. Cruising at about 60-70mph I got that slight hesitation/stumble. I think my coil is crapping out and when I run premium it doesn't have to work as hard and it isn't dead yet. Any ideas?
01-19-2009, 01:56 PM
#88
firstly, as an update, the car has been running FINE so far since my 1/9/09 post. as i mentioned, i'm using ALL GENUINE NISSAN COILS now. actually switched the coil from cylinder 4 to #2 and installed the new nissan coil in cylinder 4.
as to your post, do you really think -0.2 ohms would make a difference?
i dunno, even though its minor i could actually see what you mentioned happen. over the course of driving time, all those excessive current can lead to that less resistance cylinder thus ultimately reach the coil's culmination point resulting in the explosive matter. i still think -0.2 ohms is insignificant...
i do have a grounding kit on the car currently, though i don't have some of the points grounded where you pointed out. i have 1 wire that might be able to reach to the alternator bolt, depending on which one. a pic would help
if you don't mind, or a more detailed description, same for the neg cable to the bell housing (never looked at that stuff so i have no clue).
all my battery connections are pretty clean and corrosion free.
since you also mentioned headlights, i do have an issue with one of them. the passenger harness ALWAYS had an issue, even after i installed new headlights. it would always cut on and off if i touch the harness connector.
previous connectors blew but the current one still looks ok but yet has that on/off issue. headlight bulbs are stock...basically the ones that came with the r34 headlights, nothing fancy,ricey hyperblue xenon crap. should i bump up the fuse amp?
yes, i hate electrical issues, seems like i'm having a lot of them recently...
as to your post, do you really think -0.2 ohms would make a difference?
i dunno, even though its minor i could actually see what you mentioned happen. over the course of driving time, all those excessive current can lead to that less resistance cylinder thus ultimately reach the coil's culmination point resulting in the explosive matter. i still think -0.2 ohms is insignificant...
i do have a grounding kit on the car currently, though i don't have some of the points grounded where you pointed out. i have 1 wire that might be able to reach to the alternator bolt, depending on which one. a pic would help
if you don't mind, or a more detailed description, same for the neg cable to the bell housing (never looked at that stuff so i have no clue).all my battery connections are pretty clean and corrosion free.
since you also mentioned headlights, i do have an issue with one of them. the passenger harness ALWAYS had an issue, even after i installed new headlights. it would always cut on and off if i touch the harness connector.
previous connectors blew but the current one still looks ok but yet has that on/off issue. headlight bulbs are stock...basically the ones that came with the r34 headlights, nothing fancy,ricey hyperblue xenon crap. should i bump up the fuse amp?
yes, i hate electrical issues, seems like i'm having a lot of them recently...
)Think of least resistance as a cup of water that sprung a small leak. No matter how small that leak in the cup, the water WILL go there.
Also, as to your headlight issue, remember that adding a grounding kit and cleaning your electrical connection contacts are kinda sortof the same thing. So, rather than spend some more money, clean the electrical connectors if you haven't done so already.
The ground connections are places for stray electricity to freely run to, a design implementation to account for minor electrical imperfections....such as 0.2 ohms
Upping the fuse rating isn't solving the problem. I suggest you clean/replace headlight connectors issue. I know this is something that is much much easier said than done, but you gotta do what you gotta do when it comes to electrical issues.
Of course if the problem has gone away and didn't come back then leave it well enough alone.
DW
01-25-2009, 03:24 PM
#89
coil problems
Madmax8
01-26-2009, 01:30 PM
#90
Just want to see what your opinions are of these:
http://autopartpro.amazonwebstore.co...source=froogle
http://www.amazon.com/IGNITION-NISSA.../dp/B000U9WZ5Y
Why are they so cheap? If these are bad should I buy them from a parts store like autozone, is ebay good for these, or only dealer? I see some people have the "cheap" ones and they work fine so just want to do some research.
http://autopartpro.amazonwebstore.co...source=froogle
http://www.amazon.com/IGNITION-NISSA.../dp/B000U9WZ5Y
Why are they so cheap? If these are bad should I buy them from a parts store like autozone, is ebay good for these, or only dealer? I see some people have the "cheap" ones and they work fine so just want to do some research.
02-28-2009, 05:02 PM
#94
great, another blew today. last time my coil blew, i swapped out the plug from #4 to #2 and installed a NEW NISSAN coil for cylinder #4. this time instead of cylinder#2, it was cylinder #4 coil (the new nissan coil) that blew.
i swear i'm fed up w/ this. last time i checked, all the wires and continuity seemed fine.
i'll check for cylinder #4 again but this is really p!ssing me off.
i swear i'm fed up w/ this. last time i checked, all the wires and continuity seemed fine.
i'll check for cylinder #4 again but this is really p!ssing me off.
03-01-2009, 11:54 AM
#96
That sucks! These coil issues are a real PITA! Has anyone with electronics experience opened up a blown coil before? We need to figure out what is causing them to fail.
great, another blew today. last time my coil blew, i swapped out the plug from #4 to #2 and installed a NEW NISSAN coil for cylinder #4. this time instead of cylinder#2, it was cylinder #4 coil (the new nissan coil) that blew.
i swear i'm fed up w/ this. last time i checked, all the wires and continuity seemed fine.
i'll check for cylinder #4 again but this is really p!ssing me off.
i swear i'm fed up w/ this. last time i checked, all the wires and continuity seemed fine.
i'll check for cylinder #4 again but this is really p!ssing me off.
03-01-2009, 02:03 PM
#97
This is a long shot but do you think you could actually run your own set of wires from the ECM harness, through the firewall and into the coil pack to try and eliminate a short somewhere in the stock wiring. It sounds like a lot of work but it really isnt.
Other than that, I would try and swap in another ECM and see if the problem goes away.
Other than that, I would try and swap in another ECM and see if the problem goes away.
03-01-2009, 04:40 PM
#98
i really doubt its the coils now. a genuine nissan coil blew, and it wasn't even at cylinder 2 like it had been. although the nissan coil last the longest before the explosion, compared to the aftermarket ones.
03-01-2009, 04:45 PM
#99
This is a long shot but do you think you could actually run your own set of wires from the ECM harness, through the firewall and into the coil pack to try and eliminate a short somewhere in the stock wiring. It sounds like a lot of work but it really isnt.
Other than that, I would try and swap in another ECM and see if the problem goes away.
Other than that, I would try and swap in another ECM and see if the problem goes away.
i'm going to diagnosis the wires again, prob this thursday or weekend depending on the weather and schedule. will update then
03-01-2009, 08:07 PM
#100
for each cylinder? i would only do the fronts, but thats still A LOT of length of wires and work. i made my own ground wire for cylinder #2 but that still didn't resolve the issue. swapping in another ECM would just be more of a hassel IMO, esp w/ all the other things i have hooked to the ECM.
i'm going to diagnosis the wires again, prob this thursday or weekend depending on the weather and schedule. will update then
i'm going to diagnosis the wires again, prob this thursday or weekend depending on the weather and schedule. will update then
Hate to get back at that again but what what do you mean by "all the other things I have hooked to the ECM". If you mean any aftermarket electronics FWIW I suggested disconnecting anything like that from your ECM a long time ago.
Last edited by Nopike; 03-01-2009 at 08:09 PM.
03-01-2009, 08:45 PM
#101
for each cylinder? i would only do the fronts, but thats still A LOT of length of wires and work. i made my own ground wire for cylinder #2 but that still didn't resolve the issue. swapping in another ECM would just be more of a hassel IMO, esp w/ all the other things i have hooked to the ECM.
i'm going to diagnosis the wires again, prob this thursday or weekend depending on the weather and schedule. will update then
i'm going to diagnosis the wires again, prob this thursday or weekend depending on the weather and schedule. will update then
No, I would just do it for the cylinder/cylinders which are blowing coils.
I had to replace my ECM after a wiring job because it blew an injector driver. Replacing it isnt that hard. You use the same harness so all the wiring you've done so far wont be affected. But you're right, check everything else first before you move on to the harder stuff.
03-02-2009, 09:37 AM
#103
I'm not saying this is definetly true in your case but automotive electrical systems tend to be very reliable. Most of the problems that people encounter are because they started working on or modifiying the electrical system. Most people don't fully understand what they are doing and the problems that their work/modifications can cause.
Last edited by Nopike; 03-02-2009 at 09:40 AM.
03-06-2009, 05:12 PM
#104
I'm not saying this is definetly true in your case but automotive electrical systems tend to be very reliable. Most of the problems that people encounter are because they started working on or modifiying the electrical system. Most people don't fully understand what they are doing and the problems that their work/modifications can cause.
03-06-2009, 05:20 PM
#105
well to update, i diagnosed the symptom again.
As far as the coil harnesses, THERE ALL FINE
cylinder 4:
continuity from coil harness to ecu: exists
voltage b/t pin3 and ground: 0.30V
power supply(pin1): 11.93V
ground continuity (pin2): exists
checked values for cylinder #1,2 and 6, all have same values as cylinder 4.
one question though. where and what does the condenser harness connector look like? In fact, what is its purpose? thats 1 thing i haven't tested yet. other than that, i really don't know what else could be causing the coils to overheat and explode.
and nissan quoted me around $95 for just the diagnostic fee and i'm kinda thinking about dropping it off but at the same time afraid there going to do exactly what i did...
As far as the coil harnesses, THERE ALL FINE
cylinder 4:
continuity from coil harness to ecu: exists
voltage b/t pin3 and ground: 0.30V
power supply(pin1): 11.93V
ground continuity (pin2): exists
checked values for cylinder #1,2 and 6, all have same values as cylinder 4.
one question though. where and what does the condenser harness connector look like? In fact, what is its purpose? thats 1 thing i haven't tested yet. other than that, i really don't know what else could be causing the coils to overheat and explode.
and nissan quoted me around $95 for just the diagnostic fee and i'm kinda thinking about dropping it off but at the same time afraid there going to do exactly what i did...
Last edited by G4nismo; 03-06-2009 at 05:22 PM.
03-06-2009, 06:26 PM
#106
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Thomasville, GA
Posts: 270
well to update, i diagnosed the symptom again.
As far as the coil harnesses, THERE ALL FINE
cylinder 4:
continuity from coil harness to ecu: exists
voltage b/t pin3 and ground: 0.30V
power supply(pin1): 11.93V
ground continuity (pin2): exists
checked values for cylinder #1,2 and 6, all have same values as cylinder 4.
one question though. where and what does the condenser harness connector look like? In fact, what is its purpose? thats 1 thing i haven't tested yet. other than that, i really don't know what else could be causing the coils to overheat and explode.
and nissan quoted me around $95 for just the diagnostic fee and i'm kinda thinking about dropping it off but at the same time afraid there going to do exactly what i did...
As far as the coil harnesses, THERE ALL FINE
cylinder 4:
continuity from coil harness to ecu: exists
voltage b/t pin3 and ground: 0.30V
power supply(pin1): 11.93V
ground continuity (pin2): exists
checked values for cylinder #1,2 and 6, all have same values as cylinder 4.
one question though. where and what does the condenser harness connector look like? In fact, what is its purpose? thats 1 thing i haven't tested yet. other than that, i really don't know what else could be causing the coils to overheat and explode.
and nissan quoted me around $95 for just the diagnostic fee and i'm kinda thinking about dropping it off but at the same time afraid there going to do exactly what i did...
03-06-2009, 07:06 PM
#108
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Thomasville, GA
Posts: 270
To me, all things considered, I would think the suprastick is causing the problem. How? I have no idea. Reason I think this? It's the most likely thing, since its hooked into the ECU.
Would be worth a thought.
Maybe give the makers of the device a call and see what they think of this issue.
Last edited by Rob_0126; 03-06-2009 at 07:29 PM.
03-06-2009, 08:31 PM
#109
i dunno, maybe the SS being tapped into the ignition switch is not
dropping the voltage to 0 on the coil pack when its supposed to therefore the coil stays energized constantly and overheats and explodes. i will consider unhooking it but i really don't think thats the case since i haven't heard any of the other guys w/ the SS having issues like this. i'm going to do some more research and will update again.
argh i'm getting a headache...
dropping the voltage to 0 on the coil pack when its supposed to therefore the coil stays energized constantly and overheats and explodes. i will consider unhooking it but i really don't think thats the case since i haven't heard any of the other guys w/ the SS having issues like this. i'm going to do some more research and will update again.
argh i'm getting a headache...
03-06-2009, 08:48 PM
#110
So you are getting three signals from the ECU, It cannot be that hard to disconnect the SS, try disconnecting it, if the problem continues you can always hook it back up. It can't be any more hassle than what you have already been going through.
Any chance your wiring for the SS signals may somehow be effecting coil firing signals? Maybe you cut a coil signal wire or there is some bare wire touching a coil signal wire somehow.
Have you at visually inspected your SS connections to the ECU or are they so hard to get at that you cannot see what may possible be going on there?
If it is hard to get at the ECU to disconect the signals maybe it was difficult to make the connections properly?
I know that the SS hookup causing this probblem is a long shot but short of taking it to Nissan (where they may not know the cause either) it may be the best option you have.
Just trying to give you some ideas.
Any chance your wiring for the SS signals may somehow be effecting coil firing signals? Maybe you cut a coil signal wire or there is some bare wire touching a coil signal wire somehow.
Have you at visually inspected your SS connections to the ECU or are they so hard to get at that you cannot see what may possible be going on there?
If it is hard to get at the ECU to disconect the signals maybe it was difficult to make the connections properly?
I know that the SS hookup causing this probblem is a long shot but short of taking it to Nissan (where they may not know the cause either) it may be the best option you have.
Just trying to give you some ideas.
03-06-2009, 09:59 PM
#111
So you are getting three signals from the ECU, It cannot be that hard to disconnect the SS, try disconnecting it, if the problem continues you can always hook it back up. It can't be any more hassle than what you have already been going through.
Any chance your wiring for the SS signals may somehow be effecting coil firing signals? Maybe you cut a coil signal wire or there is some bare wire touching a coil signal wire somehow.
Have you at visually inspected your SS connections to the ECU or are they so hard to get at that you cannot see what may possible be going on there?
If it is hard to get at the ECU to disconect the signals maybe it was difficult to make the connections properly?
I know that the SS hookup causing this probblem is a long shot but short of taking it to Nissan (where they may not know the cause either) it may be the best option you have.
Just trying to give you some ideas.
Any chance your wiring for the SS signals may somehow be effecting coil firing signals? Maybe you cut a coil signal wire or there is some bare wire touching a coil signal wire somehow.
Have you at visually inspected your SS connections to the ECU or are they so hard to get at that you cannot see what may possible be going on there?
If it is hard to get at the ECU to disconect the signals maybe it was difficult to make the connections properly?
I know that the SS hookup causing this probblem is a long shot but short of taking it to Nissan (where they may not know the cause either) it may be the best option you have.
Just trying to give you some ideas.
nah its not hard. i can just cut the wire from the SS to make it easier. gonna do that and check some other stuff tomm
03-07-2009, 09:43 AM
#112
Sup G4 ????Still at this mate? Ugghhh .... this is a problem if it's still doing this.
To answer your above post, the condensor unit is a part of the coil pack from my understanding. I am with you on taking it to the stealersh!t/p, they will do what you have done, blame the SS and put a huge dent in your wallet. Could be the ECU, but I dunno ... do you have access to another ECU you could just slap in for a few days to see? Might be worth trying that as a last resort. I know you checked and rechecked and then re-rechecked all the wiring so I don't think it'd be there. It's not the coil pack, as you've gone through how many now? (Thank God for warranties! lol) At this point, I'd see if you have another ECU to use, or how much it might cost to have your current ECU flashed and re-programmed. I know O'riely Auto has done a few for the shop I used to work for and I want to say it was ~$100 or so .... please don't quote me on that.
03-07-2009, 12:22 PM
#113
Sup G4 ????Still at this mate? Ugghhh .... this is a problem if it's still doing this.
To answer your above post, the condensor unit is a part of the coil pack from my understanding. I am with you on taking it to the stealersh!t/p, they will do what you have done, blame the SS and put a huge dent in your wallet. Could be the ECU, but I dunno ... do you have access to another ECU you could just slap in for a few days to see? Might be worth trying that as a last resort. I know you checked and rechecked and then re-rechecked all the wiring so I don't think it'd be there. It's not the coil pack, as you've gone through how many now? (Thank God for warranties! lol) At this point, I'd see if you have another ECU to use, or how much it might cost to have your current ECU flashed and re-programmed. I know O'riely Auto has done a few for the shop I used to work for and I want to say it was ~$100 or so .... please don't quote me on that.
hmm, ECU flashed and reprogrammed? i will call around and ask for quotes to see if that will be worth it.
03-07-2009, 04:05 PM
#114
Some places can do it in the car, most will ask you to bring it in to them. Not hard at all to remove, located in the center of the dash, under the radio and tray. You can look back by the air duct and see it. IIRC, 2 - 10mm bolts holding it down.
You might PM Maxima_Joe and see if he's got any ECU's, and if so .... what years. Are you a 99'r?
You might PM Maxima_Joe and see if he's got any ECU's, and if so .... what years. Are you a 99'r?
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