my retrofit!
01-02-2009, 03:33 PM
#81
it looks like u sealed up the projector pretty good, so actually what u are looking for is a bezel to be technically correct. i have a friend that sells shrouds n stuff for cheap
01-02-2009, 05:16 PM
#82
A bezel will only cover the outer edge of the projector. A shroud is going to cover the whole outside projector which is what he needs. If he just used a bezel, the rest of the projector would still be visible.
01-02-2009, 05:39 PM
#83
Yes, BUT, you can buy parts from Home Depot/Lowe's/etc. to make one for only a couple bucks and it would GREATLY improve how your retrofit looked.
01-02-2009, 07:24 PM
#84
01-02-2009, 09:47 PM
#85
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I made the lens holder into a shroud, by sealing the area around it.
I'm still tossing around whether or not to go for 'real' shrouds. Functionally, there is no excess light emitted from the sides, so it's just for aesthetic purposes.
I'm still tossing around whether or not to go for 'real' shrouds. Functionally, there is no excess light emitted from the sides, so it's just for aesthetic purposes.
01-02-2009, 10:33 PM
#86
A good set of shrouds will costs about $50-60, and I think that it'd be worth it for you, after doing all that work, to get them looking good aesthetically.
I'm still waiting on my R34s for my retro...eBay seller is taking forever!
01-03-2009, 09:42 AM
#87
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You can always just do that later, once you get sick of the "coolsaber57 shrouds"
A good set of shrouds will costs about $50-60, and I think that it'd be worth it for you, after doing all that work, to get them looking good aesthetically.
I'm still waiting on my R34s for my retro...eBay seller is taking forever!
A good set of shrouds will costs about $50-60, and I think that it'd be worth it for you, after doing all that work, to get them looking good aesthetically.
I'm still waiting on my R34s for my retro...eBay seller is taking forever!
Haha dude. Good luck with those. What projectors are you using? Make sure you take as many pictures as I did.
01-03-2009, 11:41 AM
#88
You did a great job.
I just have 9004 hids in a stock housing and I was wondering if it would be worth it to custom fit some kind of shielding over just the top of the bulb to cut the beam down some what? Has anyone done anything like that before?
I just have 9004 hids in a stock housing and I was wondering if it would be worth it to custom fit some kind of shielding over just the top of the bulb to cut the beam down some what? Has anyone done anything like that before?
01-03-2009, 12:09 PM
#89
U would want to shield the bottom if anything and why would you want less out put from a less than great light source?
01-03-2009, 05:50 PM
#90
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Even if you could hypothetically get a cutoff with the bulb shield, you still have major hotspots, and no width. Look at my before and after pictures. Not only do the projectors give me a sharp cutoff, but they also give a much wider and more even beam than the reflectors, which gave two 'blobs' of light in the middle.
Having bright hotspots makes your pupils contract to let less light in, which in turn makes everywhere outside of the hotspot dimmer. A wider, even beam is much more usable than a narrow, super bright hotspot.
Having bright hotspots makes your pupils contract to let less light in, which in turn makes everywhere outside of the hotspot dimmer. A wider, even beam is much more usable than a narrow, super bright hotspot.
01-03-2009, 10:12 PM
#91
It was some other guy named Coolsaber57....I'm using TSXs, I do have one noobie question that I'm sure is easy, but which way is "up" on the projectors? Meaning, the glare shield should be on top or bottom?
I need a good camera...anyone care to donate? Nalc? Since you're done with your retro, can I have your camera?
01-03-2009, 10:27 PM
#92
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The glare shield goes on the bottom.
The lens completely flips everything over. Up becomes down, and left becomes right.
This is what the bulb 'sees'
Cutoff shield on the bottom. Shield is higher on the right, lower on the left.
TSXs are supposed to be nice. Got anything lined up for the high beams or turn signals? I can hook you up with ebay cheapo 2.5" H3 halogen projectors. They got clear lenses, but I never got around to testing them on my MDXs. Cutoff sharpness doesn't bother me, and I was concerned about different focal lengths.
The lens completely flips everything over. Up becomes down, and left becomes right.
This is what the bulb 'sees'
Cutoff shield on the bottom. Shield is higher on the right, lower on the left.
TSXs are supposed to be nice. Got anything lined up for the high beams or turn signals? I can hook you up with ebay cheapo 2.5" H3 halogen projectors. They got clear lenses, but I never got around to testing them on my MDXs. Cutoff sharpness doesn't bother me, and I was concerned about different focal lengths.
01-03-2009, 11:29 PM
#94
The glare shield goes on the bottom.
The lens completely flips everything over. Up becomes down, and left becomes right.
This is what the bulb 'sees'
Cutoff shield on the bottom. Shield is higher on the right, lower on the left.
TSXs are supposed to be nice. Got anything lined up for the high beams or turn signals? I can hook you up with ebay cheapo 2.5" H3 halogen projectors. They got clear lenses, but I never got around to testing them on my MDXs. Cutoff sharpness doesn't bother me, and I was concerned about different focal lengths.
The lens completely flips everything over. Up becomes down, and left becomes right.
This is what the bulb 'sees'
Cutoff shield on the bottom. Shield is higher on the right, lower on the left.
TSXs are supposed to be nice. Got anything lined up for the high beams or turn signals? I can hook you up with ebay cheapo 2.5" H3 halogen projectors. They got clear lenses, but I never got around to testing them on my MDXs. Cutoff sharpness doesn't bother me, and I was concerned about different focal lengths.
Yeah, I'm just gonna keep the stock highs, as I use them once in a blue moon, it's just not worth it to me to retrofit them in there...although I briefly thought about it.
02-09-2009, 07:15 AM
#96
02-19-2009, 06:54 PM
#99
Are you going to be using the projector+the reflector piece that comes w/the M45? I'm talking about the piece that throws extra light to the side like the LS430 does.
You will love the R34 high beam. It throws light very far down the road.
You will love the R34 high beam. It throws light very far down the road.
02-20-2009, 07:29 AM
#100
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I don't have it. I may try to buy it in the future. It looks nice, but the guy wants $35 for them. I still haven't bought the harness yet.
I may have gotten ahold of one of the clear shrouds... I'm keeping my eye out for them.
That being said, here are some preliminary pictures.
M35 projector
Philips 85122+ bulb (4300k D2S)
OEM Nissan 35w ballast
As you can see, these bad boys are pretty sick. They make the OEM headlights look like a maglite.
I may have gotten ahold of one of the clear shrouds... I'm keeping my eye out for them.
That being said, here are some preliminary pictures.
M35 projector
Philips 85122+ bulb (4300k D2S)
OEM Nissan 35w ballast
As you can see, these bad boys are pretty sick. They make the OEM headlights look like a maglite.
06-06-2009, 03:53 PM
#106
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So, I pulled out this retrofit (yeah yeah the M35 set is under construction - I promise it will be done and present at Maxus, ready to whoop your asses in the "best lighting" category) to clean it up because I have someone interested in buying it. I finally got some shrouds! They look hot IMO.
I finally got some shrouds... they're Hella shrouds from an Audi, not sure which model.
Going to mount the shrouds on real good, then adjust the aiming, polish the lenses, and seal it up!
I finally got some shrouds... they're Hella shrouds from an Audi, not sure which model.
Going to mount the shrouds on real good, then adjust the aiming, polish the lenses, and seal it up!
06-06-2009, 08:34 PM
#107
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And some night pictures, after doing adjustments.
Before, they were aimed ridiculously low, to the point where you can't see anything. To solve this, I grabbed a wrench and tightened the long top bolt (the one that holds the projector to the housing, not the OEM housing adjustment) A LOT. Like an inch. This really cranked the projectors up. I have a pretty good range of adjustment using the OEM headlight mounts. Rotation is good, so the OEM housing up/down and left/right should be fine.
All pictures are on my camera's "manual" setting, so ISO and exposure doesn't change from picture to picture.
Down the road:
Against my garage:
Before, they were aimed ridiculously low, to the point where you can't see anything. To solve this, I grabbed a wrench and tightened the long top bolt (the one that holds the projector to the housing, not the OEM housing adjustment) A LOT. Like an inch. This really cranked the projectors up. I have a pretty good range of adjustment using the OEM headlight mounts. Rotation is good, so the OEM housing up/down and left/right should be fine.
All pictures are on my camera's "manual" setting, so ISO and exposure doesn't change from picture to picture.
Down the road:
Against my garage:
Last edited by nalc; 06-06-2009 at 08:56 PM.
06-06-2009, 08:35 PM
#108
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Note - this is still without my shrouds or the lenses reinstalled, this was just night-aiming. I'll do that stuff tomorrow.
Front of the car:
The cutoff flare
below the cutoff
Front of the car:
The cutoff flare
below the cutoff
06-08-2009, 03:52 PM
#111
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it's a little "out there" looking, since there are no lens covers the projectors are kinda "in your face"
With lens covers, AE corners, and smoke bumper lights - it's gonna be a hot look.
With lens covers, AE corners, and smoke bumper lights - it's gonna be a hot look.
06-12-2009, 02:29 PM
#113
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well, I sold these and shipped them out today. Now I have no excuse to delay in my M35 retrofit, which has been sitting on my workbench for like 2 months. That's my other retrofit thread, which I will update once I actually do something worth talking about.
06-12-2009, 08:29 PM
#116
Looks good though!And I need to upgrade my big three or add a grounding kit or something, my car's idle drops when I turn my headlights on.
