Whinny noise, dimmed lights, is my alty bad? Problem after problems -_-
SubscribeToday, my mom tried starting the car. It wouldn't work. I do get light, but when driving and from overall, it seems like the battery might be weak? This is an optima red top too ! Might've been a while.
But I am not sure if its because the alternator or whatever is not working. Getting a weird sound when driving, almost whinning.
Thanks.
But I am not sure if its because the alternator or whatever is not working. Getting a weird sound when driving, almost whinning.
Thanks.
Member
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What do you mean? Is the red battery light on when driving? If so, then yea, its your alternator. The whining could be the bearings in the alternator pully. If you can take it off, most auto part stores, like Autozone or Advanced will test it for free.Originally Posted by FishyMan
I do get light, but when driving and from overall,
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No lights on the dash board. Car has about 90 k.Originally Posted by Snypa
the whining sounds like the alty.So that might be the entire problem.
Do you folks think it could be the alternator that has not charged my battery?
Darn, are alternators difficult to change? I have no experience in it along w/ the belts.
I will try start the car, it's just very feignt in crank power.
Thanks
Member
You should start by taking the battery to a parts store like Autozone, Pep Boys, Advance or Murray's ect. and get it tested/charged for free. I think Walmart or Sears will do it for free too.
Its not difficult to remove the alternator, but it's in a tricky spot. You'll have to get under the car to do it. If you dont have tools and jackstands, or you dont feel comfortable doing it then just take it somewhere.
Its not difficult to remove the alternator, but it's in a tricky spot. You'll have to get under the car to do it. If you dont have tools and jackstands, or you dont feel comfortable doing it then just take it somewhere.
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Its not difficult to remove the alternator, but it's in a tricky spot. You'll have to get under the car to do it. If you dont have tools and jackstands, or you dont feel comfortable doing it then just take it somewhere.
After charging it and etc., do I run the car and pinpoint? If it starts, I'm good, if not it's the starter right?Originally Posted by yesipuff
You should start by taking the battery to a parts store like Autozone, Pep Boys, Advance or Murray's ect. and get it tested/charged for free. I think Walmart or Sears will do it for free too.Its not difficult to remove the alternator, but it's in a tricky spot. You'll have to get under the car to do it. If you dont have tools and jackstands, or you dont feel comfortable doing it then just take it somewhere.
For alternator jobs, about how much would it be?
Senior Member
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For alternator jobs, about how much would it be?
if you pull the radiator (2 bolts and plug the hoses) than its nice and easy from the top. like a 2hr job at most. dont assume its anything until you test everything.Originally Posted by FishyMan
After charging it and etc., do I run the car and pinpoint? If it starts, I'm good, if not it's the starter right?For alternator jobs, about how much would it be?
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I have done brakes, radiator, and misc stuff, but never 'drive' belts cuz i dunno about the deflection and all that. I"m just afraid of that part.Originally Posted by j2b4osan
if you pull the radiator (2 bolts and plug the hoses) than its nice and easy from the top. like a 2hr job at most. dont assume its anything until you test everything.
I'l call checkers and see what they say, but the people working there aren't too knoweldgeble.
damn s8t car i hate this car.
Member
After you charge and test the battery, if the battery tests good, drive it around. If the battery drains, then its your alternator. Deflection? Just make it good and tight. If you really want it perfect, all you need is a ruler to check the deflection.


Good lord jesus. I dunno if I can or have time doing this job for a noobie. I've read it before. Someone told me as long it doesn't whine/schreech your good.
Would typical sockets work? **** I have to dig it up. They are scattered everywhere.
Damn this. But if i get a new battery and it starts, its not my starter then. This maxima killed 5 starters, from new,remakes,reman.
Would typical sockets work? **** I have to dig it up. They are scattered everywhere.
Damn this. But if i get a new battery and it starts, its not my starter then. This maxima killed 5 starters, from new,remakes,reman.
I hear the rapid tick when turning the key. Pretty sure it's pattery. This is an optima red top we got a while bakc? Lol oh well.
Can u folks confirm?
Can u folks confirm?
Member
Dont know about the ticking noise but on the alt i can help. Just need 12mm, 14mm, 21mm if im not mistaken. 12mm for the power connection to the alt. 14mm for the idler pulley and 14mm for the long bolt to that goes through the alt. 21mm for the 4 bolts holding the AC. Dont worry about the alt, its a super easy replacement if you have a good replacement alt. ive done it 4 times on 2 different maximas(2 bad replacements) and i have it down to 1hr tops. just need to
1) disconnect Negative to battery
2) remove all splash guards.
3) remove drive belt and idler pulley
4) remove 4 bolts(21mm) to AC compressor and disconnect connection to the AC( top of AC) and move it to the side
5) remove top bolt to alt (14mm i think if not 12mm) dont let it slide down
6) remove power cable (12mm) and then disconnect connection to alt. i had to use a flat head to help take it off. dont break it
7) remove back bottom bolt to alt(14mm). it shouldnt fall out if its old but hold it just in case when you remove bolt
8) remove alt. the only hard part bc you need to move the AC comp. to the side. i move it to the right (driver side) and guide the alt out the left (passenger side)
put everything back in and your done. one think i would tell you if the back bolt dont need to be turn to much to tighten down, if you do then its not the right alt. Once you have the alt bolted down make sure the alt pulley free spins. if so ur done and you save yourself 120ish on labor maybe. you dont need to remove radiator or radiator fans.
1) disconnect Negative to battery
2) remove all splash guards.
3) remove drive belt and idler pulley
4) remove 4 bolts(21mm) to AC compressor and disconnect connection to the AC( top of AC) and move it to the side
5) remove top bolt to alt (14mm i think if not 12mm) dont let it slide down
6) remove power cable (12mm) and then disconnect connection to alt. i had to use a flat head to help take it off. dont break it
7) remove back bottom bolt to alt(14mm). it shouldnt fall out if its old but hold it just in case when you remove bolt
8) remove alt. the only hard part bc you need to move the AC comp. to the side. i move it to the right (driver side) and guide the alt out the left (passenger side)
put everything back in and your done. one think i would tell you if the back bolt dont need to be turn to much to tighten down, if you do then its not the right alt. Once you have the alt bolted down make sure the alt pulley free spins. if so ur done and you save yourself 120ish on labor maybe. you dont need to remove radiator or radiator fans.
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1) disconnect Negative to battery
2) remove all splash guards.
3) remove drive belt and idler pulley
4) remove 4 bolts(21mm) to AC compressor and disconnect connection to the AC( top of AC) and move it to the side
5) remove top bolt to alt (14mm i think if not 12mm) dont let it slide down
6) remove power cable (12mm) and then disconnect connection to alt. i had to use a flat head to help take it off. dont break it
7) remove back bottom bolt to alt(14mm). it shouldnt fall out if its old but hold it just in case when you remove bolt
8) remove alt. the only hard part bc you need to move the AC comp. to the side. i move it to the right (driver side) and guide the alt out the left (passenger side)
put everything back in and your done. one think i would tell you if the back bolt dont need to be turn to much to tighten down, if you do then its not the right alt. Once you have the alt bolted down make sure the alt pulley free spins. if so ur done and you save yourself 120ish on labor maybe. you dont need to remove radiator or radiator fans.
I think the ticking sound seems like a weak battery. But this whinny sound might be a pully issue? Shall I youtube this? Could be a bad bearing on the alty pully or some ****?Originally Posted by maf2003111
Dont know about the ticking noise but on the alt i can help. Just need 12mm, 14mm, 21mm if im not mistaken. 12mm for the power connection to the alt. 14mm for the idler pulley and 14mm for the long bolt to that goes through the alt. 21mm for the 4 bolts holding the AC. Dont worry about the alt, its a super easy replacement if you have a good replacement alt. ive done it 4 times on 2 different maximas(2 bad replacements) and i have it down to 1hr tops. just need to 1) disconnect Negative to battery
2) remove all splash guards.
3) remove drive belt and idler pulley
4) remove 4 bolts(21mm) to AC compressor and disconnect connection to the AC( top of AC) and move it to the side
5) remove top bolt to alt (14mm i think if not 12mm) dont let it slide down
6) remove power cable (12mm) and then disconnect connection to alt. i had to use a flat head to help take it off. dont break it
7) remove back bottom bolt to alt(14mm). it shouldnt fall out if its old but hold it just in case when you remove bolt
8) remove alt. the only hard part bc you need to move the AC comp. to the side. i move it to the right (driver side) and guide the alt out the left (passenger side)
put everything back in and your done. one think i would tell you if the back bolt dont need to be turn to much to tighten down, if you do then its not the right alt. Once you have the alt bolted down make sure the alt pulley free spins. if so ur done and you save yourself 120ish on labor maybe. you dont need to remove radiator or radiator fans.
Man it's frustrating, after trying to maintain a job, I am getting problems after problems for years w/ this car, since I've been here in 2004. I really appreciate the help.
On the belts, how do you know it's tightened properly? As long it doesn't squeek? I have 2 new blets I bought from Nissan. Just the belt things bother me and putting them back on. If I know how to get the belts on/off, I am pretty confident in doing this alty job.
Btw, on the alternator. Do you think typical autolite brands are good?

For that part, do I just use the closed end loop hole of a wrench? This is the tensioner correct for the whole drive belt unit?
Senior Member
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Man it's frustrating, after trying to maintain a job, I am getting problems after problems for years w/ this car, since I've been here in 2004. I really appreciate the help.
On the belts, how do you know it's tightened properly? As long it doesn't squeek? I have 2 new blets I bought from Nissan. Just the belt things bother me and putting them back on. If I know how to get the belts on/off, I am pretty confident in doing this alty job.
Btw, on the alternator. Do you think typical autolite brands are good?

For that part, do I just use the closed end loop hole of a wrench? This is the tensioner correct for the whole drive belt unit?
Thats the tensioner for the altenator, air conditioner and crankOriginally Posted by FishyMan
I think the ticking sound seems like a weak battery. But this whinny sound might be a pully issue? Shall I youtube this? Could be a bad bearing on the alty pully or some ****?Man it's frustrating, after trying to maintain a job, I am getting problems after problems for years w/ this car, since I've been here in 2004. I really appreciate the help.
On the belts, how do you know it's tightened properly? As long it doesn't squeek? I have 2 new blets I bought from Nissan. Just the belt things bother me and putting them back on. If I know how to get the belts on/off, I am pretty confident in doing this alty job.
Btw, on the alternator. Do you think typical autolite brands are good?

For that part, do I just use the closed end loop hole of a wrench? This is the tensioner correct for the whole drive belt unit?
Senior Member
do you have a meter??? If so you should be able to get about 14Vdc if you get anything under that you might be right about the bad battery
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sadly i don't have a meter. i will just get a new battery. im kind of sick w/ this car already. problem after problem. Originally Posted by alxdagreat1
do you have a meter??? If so you should be able to get about 14Vdc if you get anything under that you might be right about the bad battery

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I'm hoping it's not the alternator. I hope obarrick creates more opps for a cheap loan and gives damn breaks for a new car.Originally Posted by alxdagreat1
Sorry about that
Senior Member
To the OP: Get your car checked immediately if there is any suspicion at all that it IS the alternator. I guess 4th Gen alternators are known to burn up, and last week mine literally almost did catch fire. Better to get it replaced now than when you're going down the road and everything dies on you.
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My car killed 5 starters in its life. lolOriginally Posted by Eyce
To the OP: Get your car checked immediately if there is any suspicion at all that it IS the alternator. I guess 4th Gen alternators are known to burn up, and last week mine literally almost did catch fire. Better to get it replaced now than when you're going down the road and everything dies on you.
I can't crank it, its got the rapid tap. Pretty sure its battery and the alternator is irking me too !
Autolite is good?
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I cannot for the love remember. Here's my fear.Originally Posted by alxdagreat1
how old is the battery?
The battery works, it's just not being charged cuz the whinny sound by my alternator is giving out. But more so I don't want to believe this since the light didn't come up on the dash board, and because I hear the 'rapid tick tap', when I tried to turn the key, signaling the battery not having juice.
Even with a new battery, I run the potential of destroying and draining it as well.
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So change your alternator. And if you can't do it, pay someone who can.Originally Posted by FishyMan
Even with a new battery, I run the potential of destroying and draining it as well.
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Do you recommend an autolite brand? I was hoping to just get a few more help, and attempt it. I know I'm new, but in times like these, every bit counts.Originally Posted by ChrisMan287
So change your alternator. And if you can't do it, pay someone who can.
I did consider taking it to some place, but would like to inquire a bit first.
Thanks.
Senior Member
If you keep trying tro start your car, when the battery is slightly dead, you will ruin your starter. I would recommend you to just take the battery to the stare, and see if its ok, if thats not the problem, then it might be your alternator.
I had a problem almost like this. My car kept going dead after 3 days of no driving or being stared, then it went down to everyday it would go dead. I checked everywhere. The alternator was good, the battery was old, but still good, the starter was good, everything was ok. Later on, it went dead when I was at school, it wanted to start so badly, so I kept trying to start it, suddenly, I heard a loud click, the starter blew up. About a week later, I finally got up, and got it towed to my moms friends shop, he looked everywhere also, then one last thinking, the drivers power seat. It was the drivers pwer seat, everytime I hit a small bump, it came on, and didnt turn off. It was un-noticable. I now have it disconnected, till I can take it out, and fix it.
I tell you this, because it can be anything, check take your time, and check everything. And dont keep trying to start your car, when it sounds like the battery is dead.
I had a problem almost like this. My car kept going dead after 3 days of no driving or being stared, then it went down to everyday it would go dead. I checked everywhere. The alternator was good, the battery was old, but still good, the starter was good, everything was ok. Later on, it went dead when I was at school, it wanted to start so badly, so I kept trying to start it, suddenly, I heard a loud click, the starter blew up. About a week later, I finally got up, and got it towed to my moms friends shop, he looked everywhere also, then one last thinking, the drivers power seat. It was the drivers pwer seat, everytime I hit a small bump, it came on, and didnt turn off. It was un-noticable. I now have it disconnected, till I can take it out, and fix it.
I tell you this, because it can be anything, check take your time, and check everything. And dont keep trying to start your car, when it sounds like the battery is dead.
Member
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I tell you this, because it can be anything, check take your time, and check everything. And dont keep trying to start your car, when it sounds like the battery is dead.
Thats true, it could be any number of things draining your battery. The battery light doesn't always come on when the alt fails though. If you charged and tested the battery and it's good and then it drains again I would get the alternator tested too before buying a new one. Most auto parts stores test them for free. If the alt tests good, change the belts... then if its still dying, start disconnecting accessories till you find the culprit. Good luck.Originally Posted by snowboi1289
It was the drivers pwer seat, everytime I hit a small bump, it came on, and didnt turn off. It was un-noticable. I now have it disconnected, till I can take it out, and fix it. I tell you this, because it can be anything, check take your time, and check everything. And dont keep trying to start your car, when it sounds like the battery is dead.
god lord. so much work.. i might have to shell out and take it to a shop.
batteries that are drained should be able to rehold the charge right?
batteries that are drained should be able to rehold the charge right?
Member
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batteries that are drained should be able to rehold the charge right?
yea, if its good. did you get it tested? if the battery is good, but drained, and the alternator is working, you can jump start the car and run it for a while to charge the battery (with the alternator). if the battery dies while its running then the alternator is not charging, but you have to get that battery tested first so you know for sure it's good.Originally Posted by FishyMan
god lord. so much work.. i might have to shell out and take it to a shop.batteries that are drained should be able to rehold the charge right?
Member
i never heard of a bad battery making anything whine. Im just going to say its Alt. dont worry if your not good with cars its a easy job. If you have a good rebuilders in town you can get ur alt rebuild it comes out cheaper and better, if not advance auto or orielly should be ok with their lifetime warrenty.
Member
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The whining noise could be coming from anything. His battery light is not on. It could be the battery. Get it tested. It's easy and free.Originally Posted by maf2003111
i never heard of a bad battery making anything whine. Im just going to say its Alt. dont worry if your not good with cars its a easy job. If you have a good rebuilders in town you can get ur alt rebuild it comes out cheaper and better, if not advance auto or orielly should be ok with their lifetime warrenty.

Senior Member
Just do something quick before your alternator completely dies if that's the case. You're probably going to have to spend some cash either way.