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CLUTCH PROBLEM URGENT!!

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Old Jan 1, 2009 | 07:25 AM
  #1  
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CLUTCH PROBLEM URGENT!!

Clutch pedal has lost some play where to get the car into gear, you have to shut if off, then in gear with ignition, it wants to pull, but the brake will hold the car without much strain. All I can think that caused this was I had the car lifted up from the front with a 2 fork motorcycle with the car in gear, emerg brake on and chalks behind the rear wheels.

I had the car out last night and only noticed that it was harder to shift. Now, the clutch play is so thin, it is almost impossible to pull it into neutral with the car running and clutch pedal all the way in.

Is this an adjustment issue, if so how or is something gone?
Old Jan 1, 2009 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by rhonster
Clutch pedal has lost some play where to get the car into gear, you have to shut if off, then in gear with ignition, it wants to pull, but the brake will hold the car without much strain. All I can think that caused this was I had the car lifted up from the front with a 2 fork motorcycle with the car in gear, emerg brake on and chalks behind the rear wheels.

I had the car out last night and only noticed that it was harder to shift. Now, the clutch play is so thin, it is almost impossible to pull it into neutral with the car running and clutch pedal all the way in.

Is this an adjustment issue, if so how or is something gone?
Have you checked the hydraulic system at all? That's the first thing you should've checked...
Old Jan 1, 2009 | 08:42 AM
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Good Call.
The reservoir has very little in it.
However, there is no sign of a spill on the floor, where would it go?
Other than topping it up with DOT 3 Brake Fluid, is there any seal that would typically go?
Old Jan 1, 2009 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by rhonster
Good Call.
The reservoir has very little in it.
However, there is no sign of a spill on the floor, where would it go?
Other than topping it up with DOT 3 Brake Fluid, is there any seal that would typically go?
Stock clutch lines? It's likely leaking where the hose over the trans meets up with the hard line.
Old Jan 1, 2009 | 08:48 AM
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It's all stock. That must be Part 11 on CL-3?
Old Jan 1, 2009 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by rhonster
It's all stock. That must be Part 11 on CL-3?
Usually where 11 meets 18.
Old Jan 1, 2009 | 09:54 AM
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I topped it up but am unclear as to CL-5: Bleeding Procedure. Is the tubing supposed to bleed the fluid back into the reservoir?
Old Jan 1, 2009 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by rhonster
I topped it up but am unclear as to CL-5: Bleeding Procedure. Is the tubing supposed to bleed the fluid back into the reservoir?
No, it's just there so you can see when there's no more air bubbles in the line. What I do is use clear tubing, stick the other end into a container with some brake fluid so I can do it by myself, just open up the bleeder and pump the clutch.
Old Jan 1, 2009 | 10:57 AM
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This has gone from bad to worse. I pump the pedal with the bleeder valve closed, keeping the pedal down with a 2x4, then when I open the vavle I have fluid coming out of the with no apparent bubbles, I close the valve and release the pedal, NOTHING. If I start the car in gear, it jumps like there is no play at all in the clutch, before I at least had enough play to move it or hold it with the brake and have some clutch. I am in an underground that is not accessible for a tow.

I tried with and without the Lid on the Reservoir.

Last edited by rhonster; Jan 1, 2009 at 11:00 AM.
Old Jan 1, 2009 | 02:57 PM
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in regards to leaky clutch hydro lines, i've been spraying break fluid from the line that runs directly into the tranny from the hydro reservoir... I've looked up issues with this line, i guess it's common, and same here i havnt been seeing it leak out anywhere on the ground, but you get under the car and look closely, you might have some nice slick CLEAR oil all over the place... i dunno... Tried bleeding the system and make sure the valve is CLOSED when your done....? GOOD LUCK
Old Jan 3, 2009 | 09:00 AM
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For future reference, the upper bleeder valve can be unfastened from the sidewall, lifted upright by bending the copper tubing and then unscrew the valve altogether so the air bubbles have no where else to go but up and you can pour the fluid directly in, in dribs and drabs, until you have removed all the air. Then screw the valve back on and close it. The lower is harder to get to but not bad when you remove the outer or front breather section, not the air filter and throttle body portion.
Old Jan 3, 2009 | 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by rhonster
For future reference, the upper bleeder valve can be unfastened from the sidewall, lifted upright by bending the copper tubing and then unscrew the valve altogether so the air bubbles have no where else to go but up and you can pour the fluid directly in, in dribs and drabs, until you have removed all the air. Then screw the valve back on and close it. The lower is harder to get to but not bad when you remove the outer or front breather section, not the air filter and throttle body portion.
Have you looked for where the fluid is leaking from? It's likely just going to keep happening over time. My personal recommendation is the SS line from master to slave in the GD section. Eliminates all of the crap in the stock system, makes it much easier to bleed.
Old Jan 3, 2009 | 09:37 AM
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I had it over to a garage where I know the mechanic. We couldn't find a leak so are in a "wait-and-see" mode to find out if there is a problem, if the master is going or what. It all seems good now. If I lose any more fluid, I will take a very close look at your suggested areas too. He didn't charge me, but will if I add new parts there.

Thanks for everything.
Old Jan 3, 2009 | 10:49 AM
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it sounds like i had the exact same problem with my maxima. It was found to be some sort of issue with the Clutch master and slave cylinder. Hope this helps.
Old Jan 3, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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what did you end up doing or having done?? mine seems to be good as is, holds the fluid and lots of clutch.
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