Infowire

So i picked up an 80$ remote start on eBay Prestige APS-687 APS687 Remote Start .

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=400003266879


Now i found a bunch of wiring info, and it seems like i can do it, but i would like it if someone who has done it before could help me out or give a few pointers. Iam In the Chicago Area.


If anyone needs wiring info http://www.wiringinstructions.com/ password 32320205

Some more links:
http://www.the12volt.com/request/95maxima.asp
http://www.modifiedlife.com/car-alar...nissan-maxima/
http://www.codezero.org/wiring/direc...ma%201996.htm#



Owners Manual

I am willing to do a write up for others when they need help with this.

darklegend06

iTrader: (11)

well I recommend that you get the wiring diagram for your year of your maxima.

If you have the fsm, it will help you a lot.

Infowire

yeah i have that available too. I also have All Data software that might help.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

It's pretty simple, all you're doing is just matching up wire color and function, and either splicing or intercepting.

You're going to have to run wires into the LH door for keyless entry, if you plan on using that.

Infowire

So what would you recommend for wiring, splicing, soldering, taping into ?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

What do you mean? Product names, methods?

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

When you're doing your connections.....all you have to do for ALL the connetions (unless you install a starter kill relay)...is tap into the factory wires.

The best way, and most solid way, is to actually cut a portion of the wire insulation, peel about an inch and a half of the wire you're attaching, tightly wrap it. Soldering wont be necessary, but tape it up nice and tight.


http://www.xrv.org.uk/getimage.php?id=1490

http://www.xrv.org.uk/getimage.php?id=1491

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

IMO not soldering connections is the half assed way to do it. Takes another 30 seconds (if that) per joint, ensures a good connection.

And some units require you to intercept the starter wire, just depends on the model you use. My DEI and another DEI unit I've installed both have required that.

Infowire

guess ill have to solder and put sleeves on the wires. Do you think i should cut the wires in my car and then solder everything together and then heat shrink a sleeve on top ?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Can't really heatshrink if you're just tapping in to wires, since you can't get it around them. If you can use heatshrink, do. Otherwise, just tape it.

Infowire

thats what i was asking... should i just cut the wire put a sleeve on then solder it ?

petro2342

Soldering is the best way to do it. However, what I would do first is wire everything and tape it first. That way you can see if everything works. Once that is done solder everything else. Your good to go.

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

Soldering is wasting time....ESPECIALLY if you're inexperienced with installing electronics and soldering.

It'll leave sharp points all over your connections and when you put tape over it, it'll poke through, and possibly short out on something. I've been installing for over 12 years, and I have yet to have a car come back for a poor connection. I can solder just fine, and the odd time i use that method for certain connections depending on the car.

If you wrap a wire properly, and you tape it properly, then you'll have no worry of it randomly comming loose for no reason....unless you're in the habit of grabbing wires and Yanking the hell outa them for fun.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

I guess that's just personal preference, but again IMO not soldering is a complete half *** job. As you said if you don't know how to do it properly, it can leave the spikes there, but if you actually have more than 5 minutes experience, you can do it correctly.

Infowire

i happen to be an electronics/it major. Soldering i can do with my eyes closed =)

petro2342

Umm... why would you have your connections poking through? Doesn't make sense to me. If you do it correctly you won't EVER have problems. Taping without soldering will cause you to figure out if you wired it correctly when something doesn't work.

So... to each their own I suppose.

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

My whole point is soldering without experience could lead to problems. To each his own, but its difficult for anyone here to see my point since I live in canada. I can't physically show you my work. Loose connections with no solder will lead to problems, but Tight strong connections without solder will prevent trouble too.

Petro, I'm not saying your connections will poke through the tape, Just that sometimes if you're not used to soldering, you get these little "spikes" of solder that are sharp, and when you try to put tape over the connection...these little "spikes" will poke through the tape, and possibly cause issues.

Obviously if you're good at it, you shouldnt have problems.

ThurzNite

iTrader: (13)

Any Boy Scouts here? Tie a proper knot that tightens the more you pull on it, then throw some tape over it.

Dr J

Infowire

Ok so i wired everything according to diagrams, just stuck at one part, It says to connect the Starter Wire (yellow) from the Remote Start Module After Start Inhibit Relay and before the Neutral Safety Switch... Last i checked the Relay is in the relay box front driver side under the hood. So do i have to take apart the relay/fuse box and tap into the red/black wire after it there??

[IGN]---[Inhibit Relay]--------o------{Starter}

where the o is is where the diagram shows me to connect the starter wire.



Also there are two ignition wires on the remote starter, but the maxima has only one... so do i just relay both of them to the one ?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Do you mean ignition or starter? If ignition, just throw them both on the same wire. If starter, the Maxima has two starter wires.

No, just hook up the starter wire directly at the ignition switch. No need to go to the underhood fuse box.

Infowire

That's exactly how i have it connected... except I have Ignition1 and ignition2 wired from the audiovox/prestige to two separate wires on the car...and the starter wire goes to yellow/black - black/white wire at the ignition switch.

the symptom that i experience is that when i try to remote start the car, I hear 4 clicks coming from the audiovox unit, but the car doesnt start.

maybe I've just got the starter and ignition wires mixed up.. is it common for them to mix up the terms in the instruction booklet? plus.. the wire diagrams that i find for the 95 maxima online are all different so i dont know which one to believe..

http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wir...xima/1238.html

according to that diag. it has two starter wires and 1 ignition wire

can someone give me some insight... thanks

daverussell

That is a good site to look at. The 12V is just a constant 12V. Under the dash there is a plug that connects 2 harnesses (I just did an install on a Max and should have taken pictures. I install Ignition interlock units). Where it says black/white to black/yellow for starter one, it is just different colors one different sides of the plug is all. Where it says Ignition 1, that is a 12Vsource that comes on with the ignition and does not turn off when the starter is engaged.

redwagon29

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to jack the thread but I figured it would be easier than making a new one since it is along the lines of my topic.

Let me just preface my question with the statement that I know next to nothing about wiring and electrical things, but I can handle following directions...

When I bought my Max 3 years ago it came with a remote starter installed, and it utilized the Nissan remote where pressing the lock button twice would activate the starter. However, there was no lock out on it to sense if the car was in gear or not (being a 5 spd) so we cut the main wire to it after almost taking out the whole garage with the car one day (not very cool!). I know how to splice and sauder (sp?) the wire back together if I ever wanted the remote starter to work again, but is there a simple (ish) way to get a lock out that will kill the starter if it is gear, or is this comlpetely dependent on the capabilities of the remote starting system?

I have looked at the module below the dash before (although not in a while) so I don't recall much information about it which would probably help, but I was just wondering if there was possibly a generic way to remedy this problem. Any suggestions would be great.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Rewire the clutch pedal switch to the neutral switch, then it'll never start unless it's in neutral.

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

Infowire, Most remote starters come with 2 ignition wires, becuase a lot of cars these days require two ignitions feeds in order to start. The maxima is not one of them. No need to connect both of them to the ignition cylinder...just cut one of the two from the remote starter (tape the end up), and that'll work perfectly while keeping the install somewhat clean. Maximas DO require two starter wires though, so if the remote starter you have doesnt have a second start (like it does for the second ignition), then you'll have to make another one using a relay. If you're not sure how to do it, let me know.

OH, and chances are that the reason why your car wont start, is becuase you didnt learn tach (at least you didnt specify). Most starters wont remote start until you've hooked up that wire, and learned the tach...without that, the remote starter wont know when to stop cranking over.

Redwagon29, If you want a safe remote starter, you'll have to get one that was designed to be used with a manual transmission car. Autostart, compustar, and viper all make one that will work well. Let me know if you need more details on how they work in comparison to starters for automatic cars. There is no neutral safety switch in a manual transmission, so connecting wires to your clutch wont help you if your car is left in gear.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You can make a remote start safe to use on a manual car quite easily, just takes some though at first.

There's the neutral/reverse switch, which is grounded when in neutral much like the P/N position switch of an auto, making things easy to wire up.

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

Yes, but that will only help you if your in neutral, or reverse.....whats gonna stop it if its in 1st, or any other forward gear? You are referring to the switch that turns the reverse signals on right?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

What do you mean? You wire it up such that it does not start unless it's in neutral. Not sure what you're getting at...

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

My point is that in a 4th gen manual transmission car, there is no wire that will give you a ground or 12v signal if its in neutral In order for your theory to prove correct, there would have to be a wire that either ground out, or go to nothing, or go to 12V when the car is in any position other than neutral. There is no way to get a signal from any wire in the car if the transmission is left it 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 5th. Thats what im getting at.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Yes there is, from the neutral/reverse position switch.

As I've been saying:


So what were you getting at again?

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

Try doing that in a manual transmission car. That theory would work great on an auto...but not manual.

Dont look at a book and think you know everything. On a manual transmission car, you wont get a reading out of those wires from first gear, all the way to 5th. In neutral, it'll be zero v, and in reverse it'll be about 5v, so it says. In a manual transmission car...the Only purpose of that switch is to turn the reverse signals on....NOT to inhibit the starter....thats the job for the clutch safety switch.

ImmaSquashYou

iTrader: (7)

P.S. i'm not sure who owned who...but someone is right and someone is wrong.....

To Be Continued...................

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

It doesn't inhibit the starter, correct. That's why you wire the safety wire for the remote start unit that needs to be grounded to that wire so it only starts in neutral.

Point being, my car, with a 5 speed, remote starter, and wired up like this says that I'm right. Won't start up in anything but neutral, using the neutral/reverse position sensor.

Nothing to do with 'looking at a book' here...

Also, the switch doesn't just trigger the reverse lights. If that were true, if wouldn't care to distinguish when the trans is in neutral.

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

So if you put your car into first gear, or second gear for example, your car wont start?

Does that very same wire you're referring to show 5v or so when the transmission is in a forward gear?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Correct, it will not attempt to start in anything but neutral. I've tested it in every gear.

Haven't checked it for what it shows in a forward gear, no. Never really had the need to.

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

I'll need to try your theory out. As far as i could tell, the reverse/neutral switch in the manual tranny was a simple on/off switch that goes to 5v when in reverse, and 0 when in neutral or a forward gear.

But if you can get a reading from it while the tranny is in a forward gear....then you're right. I'll try it on my 5spd 98 over the weekend.

What system are you using in your car? PM me if you dont want to advertise that info.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

It's a budget DEI unit I got from here back in '05. http://forums.maxima.org/group-deals...9-shipped.html

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

So you essentially took the reverse/neutal wire from the tranny switch, and connected it to the black/white neutral safety switch wire on the DEI unit?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

I forget which wire exactly it was, but I used to have it wired directly to the DEI unit, yes. Later I wired the reverse/neutral switch directly to the P/N position harness (car is a 5MT swap) so the car can't be started in anything but neutral whether you use the remote start or not.

IIRC I also had the neutral sensor wired up in Merlyn's car for his remote start (A33B 6MT).

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

Ok fair enough...I'm gonna try it out, and if it works, then wicked...i wont have to go through the "reservation mode" thing anymore.

Did you get the reverse/neutral wire directly from the switch under the hood, or did you take it from the interior (driver running board)?