From my readings it could be a bad 1) spark plug, 2) ignition coil, or 3) fuel injector. But the strange thing is the CEL has not come on. Any ideas? Should the CEL come one for all of the three reasons above?

 

Just because it's misfiring, won't necessarily throw a code. It should, but sometimes it doesn't.

You're a '99? It's most likely a coil.

Disconnect the coils one by one at idle, when you unplug one and the idle doesn't change, that's your dead cylinder.

 

Should being the key word here. Oh ... and the word yet. Hasn't thrown a CEL yet

Once you determine which cylinder it is then it's just a matter of testing and I'd start with the plug (cheapest easiest first).

 

yea my cousin was doing the samething. His maxima is turboed and sounded like a scooby... Did the same as you mentioned and ended up being a coil...

 

I pulled the code anyways and got one. cyl 2 misfire. I think the screw on the ECU wasn't positioned properly so i didn't light up the CEL. I recently changed the plat plugs so it can't be that. Where can I buy some mitsubishi coils at a good price?

 

Well I did the following two tests. First I swapped coil from cyl 2 with Cyl 6. Reset ECU code and ran car at idle. Again it gave 0607. Then I swapped the plugs from 2 to 6, reset ECU, and idled. Again 0607. I checked at every ECU reset that the code had changed to 0505. So now I want to test the injectors. How do I do it? Or what else could it be?

 

Look in this post under 0607 for the testing procedure:
http://forums.maxima.org/1746107-post4.html

 

Excellent link CRiME. I have found that the problem is with the fuel injector. It gave me an incorrect resistance with a multimeter. Now can I continue to drive my car like this while I wait for my new part ot arrive? Should I disconnect the fuel injector? Is all I need a fuel injector and 2 o-rings?

 

Yes, just an injector and the o-rings. So all the rest tested fine?

You can drive your car, yes. It'll just be down on power. If the injector isn't firing, you won't have an issue. If for example a coil pack went out, and you absolutely needed to drive the car it'd be best to unplug the injector so you don't damage the converter, but that's a different scenario.

 

All other 5 injectors had 11-12 ohms. Cyl 2 had either 0 or infinity...can't remember. Which is what worries me since in that link above it states if it's 0 it could ruin the ECU due to current drain.
That's why I'm thinking of disconnecting it all together. I won't ruin anything by driving it like this I hope.

 

You won't hurt the car driving it till you get your part (as long as it's not too long that is) but like Pmohr said, it'll be down on power a bit and run sortta rough. Should be ok though. You should also check / test the coil pack if you haven't already. Where are you getting the injector and how much?

 

Well I did the job and my car is running awesome! Thank you MAXIMA.ORG and it's members once again. This is the best site around. Pulling that old injector was a real *****. It took me a whole hour of yanking and twisting and breaking it into bits until it came out. And man I got drenched in fuel. Luckily none in my eyes. And that's that I released the fuel pressure before starting.

I bought it at my local Nissan dealer so I wouldn't have to wait and drive my car too long without an injector. They were nice enough to match the cheapest online price I found which was parts.com. I got it for $102+tax with the o-rings.

 

Also the part number I bought is 16600-96E01 which according to this TSB is the recommended replacement.

 

Yea, sidefeed injectors can be a major PITA to remove from the fuel rail. If you can't pry them out, you can take fuel rail out, flip it over and tap the injector out with a rubber mallet (for future reference).

Just have to make sure you get that metal shim in place above the injector, and that you don't tear an o-ring on installation (or you'll start pouring gas into the cylinder).