cooler2000

I purchased OBDII scanner, and it displayed that I have P1335 CKP Sensor.

Question is where it is located and part number? Any instructions on how to replace it?

Thanks

ATTappman

The REF crankshaft position sensor is on the front of the engine, right below the crankshaft pulley and just to the right of the oil filter. I think you would just jack up the passenger side, remove the wheel, remove the splash shield, unplug the connector, remove the two bolts holding the sensor in, and pull it out. Check the resistance between the terminals - it should be 470-570 ohms.

It looks like the Courtesy part number is 23731-A32B002, found on the 221-Distributor section (of all places). But don't take my word for it.

cooler2000

i did it, and i think it did the trick. i am curious why you tought it could be under wheel, not next to oil filter? our maximas have 2 of it. i replaced that one which is under wheel. now i am not sure if i should replace 2nd or not?

Thanks

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

What do you mean? He said to remove the right wheel to gain better access to the area.

The other is the CKPS POS, bolted onto the front of the block:


No reason to replace it if it isn't faulty, really. If you are looking to replace it, I've got one for sale

cooler2000

i replaced crankshaft sensor, nissan aprt 23731-31u11 it has mitsubishi logo on one side, and on oposide side it has nissan logo.

to acess it, i had to lift car up, remove plastic cover on passenger side. it was bolted there, then disconnected harness. 2 bolts and thats it.

are we talking about same part? if yes i replaced it. now i am talking about one which is at front of engine. is it necessary?

thanks!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Yes, you were both talking about that sensor.

Are you having issues with the POS sensor?

cooler2000

i am not sure. because i had check engline light and with my scanner it showed code p1335. thats why i replaced sensor. when i was at dealership, i was told to replace both.

how do i know if i need that pos sensor to be replaced? what are symptoms of bad pos sensor? how car behaves?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You'll likely get a code for the POS. Your car would not want to start, or the engine could stall for no reason.

cooler2000

so basically if my car isnt throwing me p1335 code anymore after i replaced this sensor, means i am fine?

also i am curious that why when i check with my meter that old sensor it shows me 560-568ohms??? means it was fine?

i drove already 1k miles since replacing sensor.

Thanks!

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Yes, if you don't notice any problems and no CEL, you're fine.

Just because it tests good with a multimeter, doesn't necessarily mean that it is. It could fail when it warms up, when exposed to vibration, etc.

ATTappman

A bad CKPS POS should throw P1336, not P1335, according to the FSM. Only the CKPS REF sensor is mentioned in the P1335 diagnostic procedure. I don't know why the dealership would tell you to replace both - did they explain?

ATTappman

I did say it is just to the right of the oil filter; I didn't mean it is under the wheel (are any parts located under the wheel ?). I guess it is under the wheel if the car is flipped 90 degrees onto the driver's side. Anyway, taking the wheel off makes it easier to take the splash shield off and get to the sensor. That's how I would do it, but I like having an excuse to use my impact wrench.

ATTappman

That's barely inside the 470-570 ohm range, at 68 degrees F. If it was colder than that when you measured the resistance, the resistance at 68 F could be higher than what you measured, and over the limit. Unless whatever is between the terminals has a negative temperature coefficient of resistance, like the engine coolant temperature sensor.

I suppose these voltage and resistance ranges in the FSM are like ranges on a blood test - sometimes being outside the range means you're dying and other times the doctor says it doesn't mean anything.

Or maybe it was just a loose connector, and you secured it when you replaced the sensor.

cooler2000

oh well! I still ahve my old sensor. no need for me to keep it. i would like to sell it. anyone would like to buy it? pm me.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Classifieds.

Matt88

out of curiousity because im gettin the same trouble code of p1335, what was the symptoms your car was experiencing when ur crank shaft position sensor REF was giving your car issues? I think there is something else wrong with my car but i just wanna verify what similarities there is between ur car and mine?

cooler2000

It was experiencing, in mornings when start up and start driving while cold a shaking and rpm would drop down and car would choke. it was like for 1 year then finally tranny died. I replaced it to new tranny. That code went away. Since that time 14 months passed, that code never came up. I replaced sensore before tranny died and still it came up. so my suggestion would be to check if any loose parts are inside tranny. thats what tranny shop showed me when they opened my old tranny, some loose gears inside which by rattling triggered p1335 code.

DrivenToTheMAX

Hey guys and dolls,

If you are having a P1335 error code and swapped out your crankshaft position sensors and are still having the same problem. STOP!

Now that I got your attention listen up.

I had this same problem. Hard starts, sometimes sputtering. Camshaft Position Sensor coding on my ECU, sometimes had to leave the car behind cause it just would not start. Sound familiar? He, he…

Wait for it…

It was those dam cheap sensor you put on it.

I changed the two sensors on my 4th gen three times and even took it to the dealership. OH' almost let the dealership work on it to, glad I didn't. Saved a ton of money on a stupid little problem.

With me I purchased the sensors from AutoZone, paid about $55 for the POS and about $88 for the REF (’95 Max has two (REF and POS)). Put them on, cleared all the codes, worked ok for a few days but that was it. Code came back car wouldn't start again. So went back to auto zone had them replaced with two new ones. Same thing, good for a few days. This was the point I took it to the dealership. I been working on it for months, finally started to give up. While I was making the appointment to have the car serviced I got to talking to the parts guy at Nissan. He said it was the sensors. I explained that it was on the second set. He then asked where did I get the sensors. When I told him AutoZone, he knew right away what it was. So he looked up the sensors and they would have run me over $200 for the REF and over $100 for the POS. So hearing this I decided not to leave the car.

Armed with this new information I started calling around. AutoZone, Advance Auto, PepBoys have the same sensors (aftermarket) and the pricing was about the same, Napa, CarQuest and O'Rielys had there sensors considerably higher (REF about $130, the POS one same price approximately). Started to notice a pattern in pricing.

So I asked the guys at CarQuest whats the difference in the parts? He said “we sell the same parts the dealers sell. AutoZone, Advance Auto and other stores like that sell aftermarket that just meets spec. That’s why they are cheaper.” So I went ahead and picked up a new set.

Mannnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnn, I barely moved the key and the car came on. It was beautiful. I have been reading all the post about this and did everything on here even extended my grounding kit to include the starter and tranny. The starter now feels like it wants to fly off the car (sweet!, highly recommend that upgrade). No issues whats so ever. I'm hitting those triple digits like nothing now. Wooooooooo what a ride. running like crazy now. Having a blast with it.

In short if your car is giving you the same code after you swapped the sensors, find out who made them, then see if there is another manufacturer. They should be more expensive (at least that was my experience). Buy them put them on and see what happens. Should make you real happy.

Oh’ by the way the sensors I got from AutoZone were under warranty so got my lettuce bak.

Hope this helps, sorry for the winded story.

DrivenToTheMAX

Oh' a big shout out to everyone who posted information about this problem. Consider me FIXED and houlin ***.

Robb13425

iTrader: (2)

DrivenToTheMAX-

I just bought a CKPS (POS) from advance auto for $54 and it had the nissan an mistsubishi logos on it, so I don't suspect it's any different than a dealer part.

shift_5

Sometimes manufactures have to source parts from OEM to meet the demands of their suppliers (NAPA, Carquest, Advance). I manage a NAPA parts house and I can tell you that we have had OEM packaging inside our boxes. Z32 ignition module came in a nissan bag with the pigtails for it in one of our NAPA boxes and the same part number ordered the same day was an aftermarket part. Hit or miss, but always trust your real parts houses like NAPA. They always source quality parts. www.napaechlin.com

AceVQ30DE

My 4th gen recently has been having some troubles. In the morning when I start it, cranks up but kinda stutters for the first few minutes. In the afternoons when I'm leaving class itl start but if I'm at a stop sign or stop light etc while in drive with the brake on (like normal stop) for more than some seconds, the rpms will fall to zero and car would cut off and be hard to start back up. Eventually turns back on and when I come to a stop I have to throw it into neutral and either leave it be or if it starts to fall rev up to a constant 1.5k. This is seriously troubling so I went to autozone and had the codes read, pulled up p1335(ref) and p0155. Are these causing the problems I mentioned? Please respnd as soon as you can as I am in urgent need of fixing this, my gas is being swallowed as if I drive a 7.0L.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

See my answer in your other post.

And please don't be posting the same problem multiple times. It creates unnecessary clutter.

jayboydog

P1335Possible causes

• Faulty Crankshaft Position Sensor
• Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor harness is open or shorted
• Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
• Signal plate may be damage
• Starter motor may be faulty
• Starting system circuit
• Dead or weak battery

suddenly my engine would not start. after replacing the crankshaft position sensor (under front of car from center on the lower drivers side of engine) I was able to get the engine started yet I don't think my no start is caused by crankshaft position sensor. one day I read the OBD2 codes and drove two miles. Ten minutes later the engine cranks but would not start. I sat in the car and googled the OBD2 codes I had written down 30 minutes earlier. I saw P0115 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Malfunction. While adding water to the radiator the water was leaking from the water pump under the alternator on passenger side of engine. Car started and I returned home putting the gear in neutral and coasting as much as I could to mitigate heat in engine. A few days later drove two miles and an hour later the engine cranks but would not start. adding water in the radiator simply went down and out the water pump leak. I decided to raise the passenger side with the jack to make the radiator level as I was parked where the curb gutter is lower than center of street. My reason was faulty as I wanted to get water into the upper radiator hose (I was thinking the water added to radiator would flow towards the upper radiator hose when the radiator was not tilted to the curb forgetting that water flows down until the water level is high as the upper hose. water will never get higher than the leaking water pump. so I removed the upper radiator hose and poured water into the hose until water filled the hose. (coolant temp sensor is at the other end of the upper radiator hose). reattached upper hose to radiator. car started with a jump and I returned home again in neutral as much as possible. Today I neglected to raise the passenger side and I added water in the upper radiator hose but the hose did not fill up. the water went to the engine and out the water pump leak and did not fill up the upper hose. could not get the engine started with a jump.

first saw the P1335 code after I had already replaced the crankshaft position sensor (POS). never saw P1335 before. Even though water I poured into the upper radiator hose immediately drained out at the water pump, i was getting a jump from another car and monitoring the voltage at my battery. 12.1 volts before attaching the jumper cables. 12.4-12.85 volts with the second car engine running cabled to mine. my engine crank was sometimes slow, sometimes faster cranking but engine would not start. two days ago I had added water in the upper radiator hose (adding water in the radiator simply went down and out the water pump leak.) Getting water to the upper hose may have soaked the coolant temp sensor and I was able to start the engine with a jump. today when I added water to the upper radiator hose the water went to the engine and out the water pump leak and did not fill up the upper hose. the engine would not start. I had cleared the memory of the ECM a few days ago after the first time I saw the P1335. P1335 showed up today and P0115 (coolant temp sensor issue) & P0325 (knock sensor) were present yesterday. I believe the P1335 is slow crank, weak battery. not crankshaft position sensor.