OK, assuming I get enough input to be able to change out both axles on both the 96 and 97 due to torn CV boots with my limited tools...

Would you also replace the original struts at the same time? Looks like if you borrowed/rented a spring compressor, the rest of the work is pretty much done since you have to take off all the unsprung weight to do the axles.

If yes, what ones should I use to get OEM ride or slightly better, not looking for real mods...

BTW, search doesn't weem to be working, only thread I can find to show removal of axles is a link to the motorvate site.

 

I guess I would only replace the struts if they were leaking or otherwise defective. The bumper (or boot, or whatever it's called) on the strut is torn to shreds on my car, but the strut is not leaking and the ride is smooth.

If you do intend to replace the struts, then removing the strut before removing/installing the axle makes the job easier. The strut gets in the way, especially if you need to hammer the driver's side axle into the differential.

Do you want to replace both the struts and the springs? Seems like you could buy the entire strut/spring assembly and avoid having to compress the springs by just swapping the entire assembly in and out. Maybe someone can comment on whether that's true (could be saying something really stupid).

If search doesn't work, post (or PM me if you prefer) - I almost memorized every post about axle replacement before I did mine and it helped me know what to expect. Also a Haynes manual will help.

 

If it ain't broke...

 

Is the motorvate site not enough? It shows you step by step how to remove the axles.

Failing that, use Haynes or the FSM.

Why would you replace struts while you're replacing axles? Two entirely different subjects.

Are your current struts bad? If not, no point in changing them out unless you just want to for no reason.

It's not a lot of labor to replace the front struts anyway, 3 nuts, and 2 bolts/nuts.

 

Ok, thanks, good to know. I have the Haynes manual. I do not have any special tools like slide hammers or bearing installer stuff, and I will probably have to buy a 36mm socket and borrow a socket driver big enough to break lose the axle nut.

Can this job be done with just jackstands? I just have a floor jack, a couple ramps and a couple jackstands.

pmohr, the motorvate site was ok, but showed 1 CV boot replacement, lacked some of the details when it came to doing both axles, I believe.
I'll go back and check it again.

Local mechanics want $90 per axle in labor alone, whether the CV boot is replaced or the entire axle, so x2 axles x2 vehicles is $360 just for labor. I better see if I can do it myself.

 

Yea, no problem doing it with basic tools.

The passenger side is quite similar to driver's, except you've got three 12mm head bolts to remove from the carrier bearing, and there's no circlip holding the axle in to the trans. The bearing is probably going to be frozen, it'll be a PITA to get apart.

If it is, then remove the whole bracket from the block. IIRC, three 14mm head bolts.

 

The topmost bolt in the passenger side axle's support bearing, I found it hard to get to from the bottom. Instead I reached my left arm in through the wheel well, and used a stubby wrench. So a 12mm stubby wrench might be helpful. I don't know if that's considered a "basic tool" or not. Going in from the bottom would work but it seemed harder to me, and looked like you'd need to use a universal joint and extension. Probably just me.

I was expecting that support bearing to be impossible to get out of the bracket, but it popped right out when I pulled on the axle. The car's never been out of the deep South.

 

I usually go with a 12mm ratchet wrench from the bottom.

 

"Usually?"

Do this type of thing ofter?

 

On my 5th trans, so yep.

 

Man, I tried that but I just couldn't find an angle that would work. Could get the wrench on the nut, but couldn't move my hand at all. After about 10 minutes I gave up. Comically inept.