I found a few write ups here on the actual replacement procedures, as well as on Autozone's site.

My questions are:

1. Can a standard DIYer do these replacements?
2. Are the parts from Autozone sufficent (Duralast parts) and fully OEM compatible?
3. http://www.autozone.com/in_our_store...suspension.htm Are these "loan a tool" tools sufficient for these replacements? If so, do you know which ones to get or should I just get them all, lol?
4. If I'm replacing one side do I have to replace the other side? Is it recommended?
5. Autozone's repair guide says that the ball joint isn't replaceable without a new lower control arm...true or not?

Thank you so much for the assistance on this...a local shop quoted me $600 to replace the right front Ball Joint and the left front tie rod end...which seemed WAY excessive to me.

 

that price inst bad actually, my old pick up need 2 ball joints replaced it was about 900 range plus an inspection, so 600 for both pain in the... back side jobs, you can probly call around for some other pricess. but your question, idk i dont trust autozone that much with stuff like that

 

As long as you stick with MOOG parts, the parts should last probably even longer than OEM if you greese them periodically. You do not have to change the other side if it is solid, if there is even a hint of play, I would change it. (you save the price of an alignment if you do both at the same time, unless you go with sears and their lifetime alignment specials).

As long as you get the tools, you should have no problems swapping them out yourself, not a hard project, IMO. I have done many of these with out those tools too, just a bit trickier.

The lower ball joint IS replacable, but it is a pain in the *** and you will most likely need a press.

I noticed you're talking about duralast parts, I would not trust them for ball joints not tie rods.

Good luck, let us know if you need more help.

 

Is there a nationwide chain that carries MOOG parts?

IF I choose to just replace the LCA will that come with the ball joint and bushings and for the price just be done with it and end up with a simpler install?

 

More often than not, control arms will come with new bushings.

Also one thing to point out, while you can certainly do the work yourself, after you complete, be sure to get an alignment done.

S

 

cditto, I just did my suspension rebuild this past weekend. New lca's, inner & outer tie rods, sway bar bushings & endlinks, steering rack bushings. I went with all oem parts from dave b. 150 per control arm and it comes with balljoints and bushings. Tie rods were 30 or so for outer and 50 or so for inner (a piece). All bushings were fairly inexpensive. Order from dave if you can wait for shipping. Much cheaper than the local dealer...plus he is a great guy to deal with. You WILL need the tie rod tool for the inners(the long pipe) but the the one from autozone DOES NOT FIT OUR CARS!!! I learned this the hard way...trust me!! Napa sells a universal tie rod tool that works great (60 bucks). They don't rent but I'm gonna try to return it and say it didn't work.lol You will also need the fork tool or seperator for the outer tie rods. Just put it between the tie rod and the knuckle and hammer until it seperates. The boot is a PITA to remove because it is so little room. The front of the boot is held on by a clamp. The back is held on by a wire that is wrapped around the boot and twisted on the side to keep it tight. I used neddle nose pliers to untwist the wire (righty tighty lefty loosy) until it broke free.I got replacement boots from autozone. But make sure you call them steering rack boots. Tie rod boots didn't come up in there system. They came with zip ties...Makes life easier putting them back on. I changed both sides because It was time. After 14 years it was time to change those parts. It was a job I only want to do once. But I plan on keeping my max for a long time so if you plan on selling it then just do what you need to keep it running. Hope this helps...good luck.

 

i bought my balljoints at napa, removed the LCA's and had them pressed at a machine shop. I replaced all the bushings with ES. I would replace the power steering boots to. With the boots make sure the hole is up, so that the oil does not leak out. I believe the whole is for air to go in and out.

Balljoints were $38 each and $25 to press, better than $150 for the whole arm

 

I was under the impression that if your boot has oil in it, then your steering rack is leaking.

 

When i removed mine it had about a half a teaspoon of oil in it. I would guess this is normal after 165k of driving.

 

use a press. Please for your own sake. lol. It is $150 to rent at autozone but you get it back. The pass side was not to bad to get out and in for me, but the Driver side was a friggen ****. SO I dicided to go rent the tool for the driver side. The tie rods outer and inner are pretty cake as well(I used an air chisel to get the inner off). Oh and get snap ring pliers for the snap ring. It will save you a lot of time.

 

rockauto.com


$75 bucks for 2 tierod ends, 2 balljoints, 1 inner + ship. Not for Moog though. Only for spicer. You can get moog if you want.

 

I would agree. But I still wouldn't put the hole up. I'd be worried about water collecting in there. Maybe point it towards the back?

 

+1 on RockAuto. They carry Moog and have very competitive prices.

 

and pretty good customer service =]

 

When I did my passenger side lower ball joint it seemed easier to just take the LCA off. It's I think 5 or 6 bolts that hold it on. Took it to a guy who did it in about 30 mins and only cost me $10. Not a bad deal.