Rear Timing chain o-ring leak
02-20-2009, 01:52 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 23
Rear Timing chain o-ring leak
ok i've seen several threads about people Needing to replace this, but i can't find ANY thread that describes how to do it, ugh.
is there an FAQ or ANYTHING that gives me something to work with?
is there an FAQ or ANYTHING that gives me something to work with?
02-20-2009, 04:34 PM
#2
02-20-2009, 09:14 PM
#3
Its not hard. Just remember where everything goes, take pictures, make notes, do what you gotta do.
Pull Pass. side engine mount, remove all pulleys, belts etc. Take off altenator, P/S pump, A/C compressor, take off lower rad hose, remove thermostat housing. You can remove the upper pan if you want, but you'll have to remove the lower to access the 2 bolts that hodl the cover on from the bottom.
remove outer timing cover, theres like 20 10mm bolts holding it on, VERY CAREFULLY pry it off, in several areas, these covers crack, kinda easy, once you get that off, remove all tensioners, guides, sprockets, timing chain, covers, water pump,etc. Make sure you put the pin in the tensioners, before you remove the chain or they'll fly apart.
Once you remove all thats needed, you can unbolt and remove the inner cover, there is 2 o-rings you must replace.
There are no real gaskets, id recommend replacing all the tensioners and guides while your in there, getting a chain rattle 2000 miles after you have the cover off would be frustrating. You'll need a couple tubes of RTV Silicone. I reccommend the grey stuff, you can get the stuff nissan uses on the Altima rear subframe recalls (P-71's), but its not intended for water usage, so dont use it around the water pump.
thats about it, the P# for those 2 orings are
15066-31U03
15066-31U02
Id order the stuff off courtesy or call dave B and he'll get you a good price.
Good luck, its involved, but its not impossible. Just read the FSM and make sure all the timing marks line up on install. Make sure you prime the tensioners, or the chain will slip on start up. Make sure you let the silicone dry for about 12 hours prior to starting, dont forget to torque everything down in the correct order and proper procedure.
When ive done timing covers, what ill do is, drain the oil, keep the drain plug out, when you take out the water pump, it will leak coolant, when your done, buy some cheap azz oil, fill her up, just throw 4 liters in, run it for ~3-5 minutes, drain the oil and put in good oil. That way it kinda flushes out anything that might be in there.
Pull Pass. side engine mount, remove all pulleys, belts etc. Take off altenator, P/S pump, A/C compressor, take off lower rad hose, remove thermostat housing. You can remove the upper pan if you want, but you'll have to remove the lower to access the 2 bolts that hodl the cover on from the bottom.
remove outer timing cover, theres like 20 10mm bolts holding it on, VERY CAREFULLY pry it off, in several areas, these covers crack, kinda easy, once you get that off, remove all tensioners, guides, sprockets, timing chain, covers, water pump,etc. Make sure you put the pin in the tensioners, before you remove the chain or they'll fly apart.
Once you remove all thats needed, you can unbolt and remove the inner cover, there is 2 o-rings you must replace.
There are no real gaskets, id recommend replacing all the tensioners and guides while your in there, getting a chain rattle 2000 miles after you have the cover off would be frustrating. You'll need a couple tubes of RTV Silicone. I reccommend the grey stuff, you can get the stuff nissan uses on the Altima rear subframe recalls (P-71's), but its not intended for water usage, so dont use it around the water pump.
thats about it, the P# for those 2 orings are
15066-31U03
15066-31U02
Id order the stuff off courtesy or call dave B and he'll get you a good price.
Good luck, its involved, but its not impossible. Just read the FSM and make sure all the timing marks line up on install. Make sure you prime the tensioners, or the chain will slip on start up. Make sure you let the silicone dry for about 12 hours prior to starting, dont forget to torque everything down in the correct order and proper procedure.
When ive done timing covers, what ill do is, drain the oil, keep the drain plug out, when you take out the water pump, it will leak coolant, when your done, buy some cheap azz oil, fill her up, just throw 4 liters in, run it for ~3-5 minutes, drain the oil and put in good oil. That way it kinda flushes out anything that might be in there.
02-22-2009, 02:17 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 23
ahh see that's awesome, not i have a full picture of what i need to do. THANKS!!!
First off if you have Haynes you should burn it, such a POS manual. I'm ordering a FSM however i still didn't know exactly what it was i needed to replace, just 2 O-ring was all i knew. But now i can start taking stuff apart while the FSM is in the mail
when i get to the timing stuff i'll need the service manual.
First off if you have Haynes you should burn it, such a POS manual. I'm ordering a FSM however i still didn't know exactly what it was i needed to replace, just 2 O-ring was all i knew. But now i can start taking stuff apart while the FSM is in the mail
when i get to the timing stuff i'll need the service manual.
Last edited by Empyrials; 02-22-2009 at 02:20 PM.
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