My wife’s car will not start at all. I have been having a hard time starting it over the past 2 months. Previously, you could turn the key, it would crank, and then you would have to give it gas to keep it running. Yesterday, I can’t get the car to turn over at all. I pulled the starter, took it to AutoZone, and it passed their testing. I tried swapping the battery out of my 5th gen (known good battery) into hers, and still nothing. All of the lights come on when I put the key in the ignition, the headlights don’t dim. The overhead light does not flash to indicate a fault. When I turn the key, I hear a few small clicks from the ignition switch, but nothing from the engine bay at all. Tonight, I am going to replace the battery cables beacause they are a little coroded (I did remove as much as I could already). Any suggestions?

 

It doesn't turn over, or it doesn't crank? 'Turning over' is generally used for the engine starting, FWIW.

You sure the clicks are from the ignition switch? It shouldn't make any noises at all.

Is this an auto or a manual? If auto, tried starting it in Neutral, or in each gear selection? If manual, sure the clutch switch is working properly? If not, try jumping it.

Have you tried cleaning the cables, making sure they're all tight? Checked the starter relay?

 

Sounds like the ing switch (electrical part) may have failed. Easy test unplug the gray wire from the starter, use a test light on the harness side and have someone turn the switch... lights up ok, no light failed switch. You could also rig a jumper wire from the + batt terminal and touch it to the gray wire from the starter, you should hear the starter spin over (keep in mind you have no switch so it will spin as long as the wire is connected).

 

This is just my two cents. If I am correct our solenoid wire is a single hookup on the top of the starter. Phmor correct me if I am wrong. Take a wire from your positive battery terminal and touch it to the solenoid post on the starter where the start signal wire hooks up. If it turns over you either need a start relay if our cars have one or a ignition switch on the back of the lock cylinder.

 

You beat me to the punch Z32drifter. I apologize for the double post.

 

Thanks for the info guys. The car is a 1995 Auto Max. when I first turn the key, their isn't any noise at all. I went to autozone to see if they had the relay, and they didn't carry it. Is this a Nissan only part, or just a generic plug-in relay? Also, anyone know where to find said relay? I will try starting it in neutral, and I am going to replace both battery terminals tonight.

 

Thanks for the help blktalon456 and z32 drifter. I connected a wire from the positive terminal to starter and it spun round and round. Funny thing is, I tried starting the car from the ignition and it turned over. Would this be a starter problem? Did the starter get stuck or something? This is my wife's car and I want it to be more reliable for her. It is still very hard to start. What should I do?

 

A starter in the car is going to work differently while out of the car. When you had it at autozone it wasn't trying to start an engine, it was just pushing air. I would of started with the starter/ battery terminals since they were bad. Did you end up changing the terminals?

 

i have a million relays, pm me know if u need one

 

At this point I would get my test light and hook it up to the harness and test the switch. With the test light hooked up try over and over to start the car and make sure the light comes on every time. The switch problem is caused when the terminals inside the switch don't make proper contact and can be intermitent.

Having a wife.... knowing the heat, I would just replace the switch. The switch is a know issue in older high mileage Maximas. If it's not your current problem it will be an issue in the future. I replaced mine a few years ago, symptom was no start at times, most times if you released the key and tried again it would start fine. When my starter failed, it failed there was no second thoughts about it hot wire did nothing (just a soft click).

The electrical part of the ing switch is around $30 at the dealer IIRC, and you can install it in 30min or less. Remove the plastic covers around the column, locate the switch and replace. I think you only need a philips screwdriver to make the repairs.

 

I did end up changing the terminals which I think did help. I will probably just go ahead and change the switch as well. I was reading through my Chilton's and it said that I had to take the steering wheel off entirely to change the switch. Is this true? Also, Is the ABS disarm procedure simply to disconnect both battery terminals and wait 10 minutes? Again, thanks for all of your help.

 

Chilton's actually says that?

Absolutely no need to remove the steering wheel. Just remove the plastic shrouding around the upper column, and two screws hold the ignition switch on.

ABS disarm? Airbag?

 

Yes, Chilton does say that. The airbag question was also due to Chilton's advice. I don't want it exploding in my face. However, if I don't have to take the wheel off; I should be fine.

 

One of the manuals (might be the FSM) says there are only 4 screws holding the housing around the steering wheel column. There are really 6--2 of them are hidden behind the plastic kick panel, which is why you have to take the panel off first. And you'll need a long phillips screwdriver to get 4 of the 6 out.

If the problem persists intermittently, where you sometimes get no crank but the dash lights up, trying putting a piece of tape on the flange that goes into the ignition switch, or inside the slot on the ignition switch. Sometimes there is just a bit too much play between the flange and the switch. I replaced my ignition switch and it didn't solve the problem. Took me forever to figure out that it was just that little bit of slop.

 

yeah dont take off the airbags - not needed.
have you checked the fuel pump, relays, any codes?

 

I replaced the switch yesterday. It works, but intermitently. I am going to try the tape idea because the little upside down "T" is a little worn away.

Also, I did not have to take off the steering wheel. There are 6 bolts. 2 of which can not be accessed unless you take off the metal bracket under the steering column. Otherwise, simple install.