Dbird

My slave cylinder is pushing on the release lever (fork) causing the clutch to not fully engage even with my foot off the peddle. This happens 10 minutes after bleeding and driving around the city. This is causing the clutch engagement point to shift from bottom to all the way up which means not even any peddle play thus causing my clutch to starts slipping and then I have to do it all over again (bleeding ). Note this is not clutch adjustment issue (and believe me I’ve tried to and did not help). I did replace the slave cylinder (from AutoZone) which was actually leaking and also the hose that bolts directly to it (dealer) which was leaking also. The second part of the hose was not in a bad condition and its barely sweating. Also I just replaced the clutch. I don’t see any leaking clutch fluid and its level in the reservoir does not change at all. What might be the problem? Please help.

emdot

iTrader: (4)

funny, 2 clutch threads in a row haha.

wewll anyway, i also had the same problem after putting in my 2nd trans. it turns out it was the master cylinder. it was slowly leaking air into the system somehow and would leave the pedal dead after a short distance. i replaced the slave first just like you did then finding out it wasnt that, i did the master cyl, and was good after bleeding with a air bleeder.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

The master cylinder is a good bet, and at ~$40 is a cheap part to replace.

Also, you say one of the hoses is sweating brake fluid? Replace that as well, it shouldn't be doing that at all.

whiteSE

iTrader: (2)

i second that u check out ur master cylinder

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

If there's a clutch line 'sweating', it should be replaced. Initially I was thinking the master cylinder, but after reading that part of your post, I'm not so sure. If the line has enough of a leak to pull air in, it will cause your issue, which would explain why it's good after you bleed it, until a few clutch applications, when it starts pulling air in.
Replace the line.
If it were me, and I was this far into it already, I'd just replace the Master with the line that's "sweating", no point in bleeding it twice or getting in there twice for a 50$ part.

Dbird

Thank you guys. Ill go ahead and try to replace the master and the line. Thanks again TunerMaxima3000.