ok so i bought this car off the .org with an 00vi and it had a cold start problem, which didnt bother me but now, as of 4 days ago i was at a stoplight and put it in first went to go started rolling and then pushed the gas and the car didnt go anywhere. I looked at the rpms and it had dropped, went back up then dropped again and the car was off and wouldnt start back up so i called a tow truck to bring it to my mechanics and the thing started up when it got there. So the next day i was showing my girlfriend how to drive a standard and she stalled it, and the car wouldn't start back up but then it went so i wasnt to concerned. The next day i was driving to my school, a 40min drive got about a block from my school and went to hit the gas and nothing, then the car just shut off again so i waited for about 10-15 min and it started back up. I decided i'd get some gas and bring it to my other mechanic and after i filled up it wouldnt start so i had to have it towed there and now theyve had it for about 3 days and I have no money to my name and they still cant figure out whats wrong, theyre kind of confused by the 00vi so i figured someone has to have had this problem before they said the cars been not staring more frequently and it'll loose gas pressure and they dont have time to get their equipment on to check it before it starts back up and runs fine
thanks casey

 

If your cam sensor is bad, your car will not start. Try replacing that. I have one for 30 shipped.

 

It also could be a faulty fuel pump.

 

Periods.............Use them!!

 

OP: Your post is almost completely unintelligible, you need to actually use sentences and paragraphs.



Seriously, you get a CPS code but don't bother testing or replacing the CPS, or checking the wiring? With it faulty, you'll be lucky if it ever starts up.

 

thanks for the help? sorry I didn't feel like i was being graded.

and for your buddy who also didnt help much the cam sensor has been replaced and i did check the wiring..
I also checked the bolts to the tranny because those can come loose and trigger the sensor code, but i wasn't sure if there was anything else that would trigger that.

 

It's not about being graded. When it takes more effort to read your post, you're less likely to receive as many readers and replies as you would otherwise.

So if the CPS has been replaced (which you completely neglected to mention), and you're still getting the code, have you not checked out the wiring or connector (as I posted above)?

 

So you tested continuity from the CPS connector back to the ECU?

And loose bellhousing bolts won't cause a CPS code...

Starting issues can also cause the CPS or CKPS REF codes, so if you're sure you've ruled it out, it could be a symptom rather than a cause.

You mentioned fuel pressure, does it not have fuel pressure when it's acting up?

When it's not starting, is it not getting fuel, not getting spark?

Any other codes?

 

The car looses fuel pressure then will die on me, then after that it won't start. I feel like there's a problem with the fuel pump, but i can't really pin point it. I'm assuming its getting to hot then shutting off, because after it cools down it'll work. And the code his gone away since replacing the sensor but the starting problem still stands, and the reason it took me so long to check the code is because it came on for something completely irrelevant to the sensor. What happened was the car got started with the MAF off(my friend) and it came on right away then plugged it back in and it stayed on.

 

I guess you would say its got all the symptoms of a bad ignition module except there isnt one in this car, and no theres no other codes.

 

So when it loses fuel pressure, have you checked that the pump is still getting the proper voltage?

What year is your car? You also haven't mentioned that. Some years have a fuel pump control module that supplies power to the fuel pump, varying based on some factors.

 

I had a similiar issue which turned out to be one very dirty fuel filter. It would run for a while and then shut off. After 30 minutes to an hour it would start right back up.

What I imagine was happening is that as the car ran the sediment in the filter got agitated and eventually clogged to where no fuel could get through. After sitting for a while the sediment settled and let me drive for a bit longer.

Anyway, it may be worth a try. And it's cheap.

 

Agree. Try the fuel filter

Your pump could be marginal and as it heats up on a long run having to pull through a partially clogged filter could cause it to give up and overheat.

Even if it's not it's a cheap change that will only help in the future.

But I wouldn't forget abput the CPS code. Not sure, but at some point the ECU may turn off the fuel pump if it has a CPS error to keep from throwing fuel all over. Check those connections. They may also have a heat related problem where the code only shows when warmed up. Or the sensor itself is marginal. Was the sensor you used new or used??

 

yeah ill be doing the fuel filter today alot of people said it could be that.. but the mechanics

thanks for the help so far it hasn't cut out since the codes gone away

 

Putting my $$ on a bad fuel pump, intermittent failure after driving a while is the most common way nissan fuel pumps act before dying, good one minute, bad the next..Try banging on the fuel tank with a hammer or similar instrument the next time it dies, they try to restart the car..

You will moist likely be wasting your $$ on a fuel filter, if it was clogged, the car most likely would run at all..

 

^^^Agreed. Sounds like the fuel pump.

 

agreed with greeny

 

Perhaps a little Seafoam in the fuel would help? I am positive if conditions improve we've pin pointed the problemo!

 

not really sure where your getting at...but if you put seafoam in the fuel..and the fuel pump is bad..how is that going to help getting fuel from the gas tank to the engine??? i'm just confused why putting seaform would help. maybe i'm missing something....

 

vacuum lines ****ed up?

 

so far the car hasnt died on me since the code has gone away for the cam sensor, but i'm not sure why that would have caused my car to stall out those few times, but even if my fuel pump did die on me, technically the car wouldve started back up again because the hoses wouldnt have been completely depressurized, which wasnt the case, it stayed dead for roughly 15 minutes.

 

Wrong, go start up your car, then pull the f/p fuse, see how long it stays running, then see if it will start back with the fuse pulled..

 

well i actually did that when i swaped out my filter and it stayed running for a little bit then died then i tried to start it again and it started up for a few seconds died then i did it again, so i figure between the two times the car died on me, if the fuel pump was shot the rpms wouldve at least went to 500 for a second or two, but who knows it couldve been a combination of the CPS code and the fuel pump, but as of right now its running fine.
thanks for all the suggestions and help though
casey

 

this is a classic fuel pump problem. drop the tank. 255 that thing.

 

Just wanted to drop in and mention I had problems Just like yours in the past. I got a new fuel pump, took out my back seats, opened up the tank and replaced it. It was perfect after that.

I just read the instructions in a Chiltons manual and it was a piece of cake.

 

just so everyone knows it was only the cam sensor never had a problem after it was replaced thanks for the help

 

I had the same problem on my 5.0. I replaced the fuel pump and everything worked great.

 

you had the same Cam sensor problem or the Fuel Pump Control Module code problem? cuz I think my car is starting to have the fuel pump problem....