Rebuilt starter, good battery, still no start
04-24-2009, 06:03 PM
#1
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 78
Rebuilt starter, good battery, still no start
Well I've read thru a lot of threads but can't determine my likely problem from them. Here's the story:
'97 Max SE w/ 5-sp, starter has been making the dried grease shreiking, dragging sound for a while since this winter. Been going to regrease it. Wife drove to store no problem, got in car and wouldn't turnover. Had dash lights, radio, good headlights but no turnover. Jumped the battery but still no turnover. Push-started it no problem and drove it home. (noticed for the first time the engine pinging sound when getting on it in 2nd as if I had low octane gas, but don't. hmm...) Put in rebuilt starter from Car-Qwest.
Still won't start / turn over! I hear the bendix kicking in strong now but won't turn over at all. Tapped on the starter and solenoid a couple times but no change. Had the battery voltage checked, 12.9V. Tried another battery I have on hand but no change. Clean battery terminals, looked at the battery ground wire and was nice and clean at the block connection. Have good strong headlights, radio, etc. What is it guys? If it was some kind of starter relay you wouldn't think you could hear the bendix clicking, would you? Bad starter rebuild? Please help me with your ideas, experiences. We need this car going soon.
Thanks much!
Bill
'97 Max SE w/ 5-sp, starter has been making the dried grease shreiking, dragging sound for a while since this winter. Been going to regrease it. Wife drove to store no problem, got in car and wouldn't turnover. Had dash lights, radio, good headlights but no turnover. Jumped the battery but still no turnover. Push-started it no problem and drove it home. (noticed for the first time the engine pinging sound when getting on it in 2nd as if I had low octane gas, but don't. hmm...) Put in rebuilt starter from Car-Qwest.
Still won't start / turn over! I hear the bendix kicking in strong now but won't turn over at all. Tapped on the starter and solenoid a couple times but no change. Had the battery voltage checked, 12.9V. Tried another battery I have on hand but no change. Clean battery terminals, looked at the battery ground wire and was nice and clean at the block connection. Have good strong headlights, radio, etc. What is it guys? If it was some kind of starter relay you wouldn't think you could hear the bendix clicking, would you? Bad starter rebuild? Please help me with your ideas, experiences. We need this car going soon.
Thanks much!
Bill
04-24-2009, 06:28 PM
#2
Won't turn over, or won't crank? Turn over is generally used for the engine starting, FWIW.
By 'hearing the bendix clicking' do you mean you can hear the gear kick out, or you can hear a click from the solenoid?
Anyway, double check all of your connections.
Did you have the starter bench tested wherever you bought it from? Could just be DOA.
By 'hearing the bendix clicking' do you mean you can hear the gear kick out, or you can hear a click from the solenoid?
Anyway, double check all of your connections.
Did you have the starter bench tested wherever you bought it from? Could just be DOA.
04-24-2009, 07:28 PM
#3
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 78
Thanks for the reply pmohr. When I say turn-over, I mean the crank won't turn......over 
. I hear the bendix (I'm pretty sure) slam into the flywheel as it's much more pronounced than the clicking of a solenoid. I guess I should have at least hooked it up to the battery before installing it, but I thought it should have been bench tested at the rebuild shop before putting it out for sale 
. The Nissan parts guy I talked to today on the phone said he's had some bad luck with rebuilds and any more he personally always goes with a new Nissan replacement (he says he and his brother both have '96 Maximas 
). He says he's hardly ever sold a starter relay and has none in stock, but I noticed a warning note with the rebuilt starter that says "the most common reason for starter failure is the Starter Relay", and "this relay must be replaced when installing the new starter." It also says it can cause the starter to just click
. Well, mine sounds louder than a "click" when I energize it. Anything else to look for before I pull the rebuilt starter out? and thanks!
. I hear the bendix (I'm pretty sure) slam into the flywheel as it's much more pronounced than the clicking of a solenoid. I guess I should have at least hooked it up to the battery before installing it, but I thought it should have been bench tested at the rebuild shop before putting it out for sale . The Nissan parts guy I talked to today on the phone said he's had some bad luck with rebuilds and any more he personally always goes with a new Nissan replacement (he says he and his brother both have '96 Maximas ). He says he's hardly ever sold a starter relay and has none in stock, but I noticed a warning note with the rebuilt starter that says "the most common reason for starter failure is the Starter Relay", and "this relay must be replaced when installing the new starter." It also says it can cause the starter to just click. Well, mine sounds louder than a "click" when I energize it. Anything else to look for before I pull the rebuilt starter out? and thanks!
04-24-2009, 07:30 PM
#4
Thanks for the reply pmohr. When I say turn-over, I mean the crank won't turn......over . I hear the bendix (I'm pretty sure) slam into the flywheel as it's much more pronounced than the clicking of a solenoid. I guess I should have at least hooked it up to the battery before installing it, but I thought it should have been bench tested at the rebuild shop before putting it out for sale . The Nissan parts guy I talked to today on the phone said he's had some bad luck with rebuilds and any more he personally always goes with a new Nissan replacement (he says he and his brother both have '96 Maximas ). He says he's hardly ever sold a starter relay and has none in stock, but I noticed a warning note with the rebuilt starter that says "the most common reason for starter failure is the Starter Relay", and "this relay must be replaced when installing the new starter." It also says it can cause the starter to just click. Well, mine sounds louder than a "click" when I energize it. Anything else to look for before I pull the rebuilt starter out? and thanks!
. I hear the bendix (I'm pretty sure) slam into the flywheel as it's much more pronounced than the clicking of a solenoid. I guess I should have at least hooked it up to the battery before installing it, but I thought it should have been bench tested at the rebuild shop before putting it out for sale . The Nissan parts guy I talked to today on the phone said he's had some bad luck with rebuilds and any more he personally always goes with a new Nissan replacement (he says he and his brother both have '96 Maximas ). He says he's hardly ever sold a starter relay and has none in stock, but I noticed a warning note with the rebuilt starter that says "the most common reason for starter failure is the Starter Relay", and "this relay must be replaced when installing the new starter." It also says it can cause the starter to just click. Well, mine sounds louder than a "click" when I energize it. Anything else to look for before I pull the rebuilt starter out? and thanks!
04-25-2009, 08:38 AM
#6
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 78
Fixed
You The Man pmohr! You forced me to recheck my connections and that was the problem. You need to give me some credit tho for 'fessin' up to the fact that I left off "the big black cable from the battery!" Found it tucked down almost out of sight and so I just spaced it I guess. Starts better than ever now. Thanks again!
Bill
Found it tucked down almost out of sight and so I just spaced it I guess. Starts better than ever now. Thanks again!Bill
05-04-2009, 06:56 PM
#7
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
I have replaced my rotors, pads and starter (bosch reman, just bought two weeks ago from autopartsway.ca for $230), thanks for all of .orgers I have learned a lot from you guys.
Now the starter develops signs of going dead in any time soon. First week, it was amazing. Then second week it was more like my previous one. I want to ground the starter to engine body (where the negative cable connects) to save it. My question is which bolt I should use? Is one of two 12 mm bolts that on steroids (one is for positive cable) or 14mm bolt (another one is 17 mm) in the starter that would be mounted on tranny?
I tried 12mm and almost burned my engine. If use 14mm, my another question is: does it affect the tightness between starter and tranny?
Now the starter develops signs of going dead in any time soon. First week, it was amazing. Then second week it was more like my previous one. I want to ground the starter to engine body (where the negative cable connects) to save it. My question is which bolt I should use? Is one of two 12 mm bolts that on steroids (one is for positive cable) or 14mm bolt (another one is 17 mm) in the starter that would be mounted on tranny?
I tried 12mm and almost burned my engine. If use 14mm, my another question is: does it affect the tightness between starter and tranny?
05-04-2009, 06:58 PM
#8
I have replaced my rotors, pads and starter (bosch reman, just bought two weeks ago from autopartsway.ca for $230), thanks for all of .orgers I have learned a lot from you guys.
Now the starter develops signs of going dead in any time soon. First week, it was amazing. Then second week it was more like my previous one. I want to ground the starter to engine body (where the negative cable connects) to save it. My question is which bolt I should use? Is one of two 12 mm bolts that on steroids (one is for positive cable) or 14mm bolt (another one is 17 mm) in the starter that would be mounted on tranny?
I tried 12mm and almost burned my engine. If use 14mm, my another question is: does it affect the tightness between starter and tranny?
Now the starter develops signs of going dead in any time soon. First week, it was amazing. Then second week it was more like my previous one. I want to ground the starter to engine body (where the negative cable connects) to save it. My question is which bolt I should use? Is one of two 12 mm bolts that on steroids (one is for positive cable) or 14mm bolt (another one is 17 mm) in the starter that would be mounted on tranny?
I tried 12mm and almost burned my engine. If use 14mm, my another question is: does it affect the tightness between starter and tranny?
You can just mount it on one of the two mounting bolts.
No, it won't affect...tightness.
You obviously don't mount it between the starter and the trans, that would just be...yea.
05-04-2009, 07:13 PM
#9
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
hi, I have read lots of your posts. pmohr. That's how I know it is my starter problem. Thank you.
No, I did not ground it on the positive one, I did use another one that beside it and has one big cable connected to it (i believe it is a negative one) . and another side or the cable I directly connect it to the front of engine body where the negative cable from the battery ends. after I done that, the starter does not work and I stop turning my key immediately. I heard it is very dangerous to use that bolt.
OK, I will follow your suggestion and to use the 14mm bolt and ground it to the engine body.
what do you mean "You obviously don't mount it between the starter and the trans"? do you mean that it is useless because the connect between tran and engine may not good?
Sorry, I am really a newbie and very afraid about anything
No, I did not ground it on the positive one, I did use another one that beside it and has one big cable connected to it (i believe it is a negative one) . and another side or the cable I directly connect it to the front of engine body where the negative cable from the battery ends. after I done that, the starter does not work and I stop turning my key immediately. I heard it is very dangerous to use that bolt.
OK, I will follow your suggestion and to use the 14mm bolt and ground it to the engine body.
what do you mean "You obviously don't mount it between the starter and the trans"? do you mean that it is useless because the connect between tran and engine may not good?
Sorry, I am really a newbie and very afraid about anything
05-04-2009, 07:19 PM
#10
hi, I have read lots of your posts. pmohr. That's how I know it is my starter problem. Thank you.
No, I did not ground it on the positive one, I did use another one that beside it and has one big cable connected to it (i believe it is a negative one) . and another side or the cable I directly connect it to the front of engine body where the negative cable from the battery ends. after I done that, the starter does not work and I stop turning my key immediately. I heard it is very dangerous to use that bolt.
OK, I will follow your suggestion and to use the 14mm bolt and ground it to the engine body.
what do you mean "You obviously don't mount it between the starter and the trans"? do you mean that it is useless because the connect between tran and engine may not good?
Sorry, I am really a newbie and very afraid about anything
No, I did not ground it on the positive one, I did use another one that beside it and has one big cable connected to it (i believe it is a negative one) . and another side or the cable I directly connect it to the front of engine body where the negative cable from the battery ends. after I done that, the starter does not work and I stop turning my key immediately. I heard it is very dangerous to use that bolt.
OK, I will follow your suggestion and to use the 14mm bolt and ground it to the engine body.
what do you mean "You obviously don't mount it between the starter and the trans"? do you mean that it is useless because the connect between tran and engine may not good?
Sorry, I am really a newbie and very afraid about anything
The only three connections on the starter are B+ to starter, the power wire over to the solenoid, and the small signal wire.
You don't mount it between the engine and the trans because that would cause misalignment of the starter.
If you want it to be most effective, run the ground directly to the negative terminal. It'll work either way, but straight to the negative terminal will ensure that there's no corrosion buildup in the ground path.
05-04-2009, 07:28 PM
#11
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
Thank you, pmohr. Now I know that indeed I almost made a big mistake. By the way, what do I mount my ground cable to that bolt. It seems I have no choice but to put the cable connector in between the bolt and starter (not between starter and trans, as you said that would be so stupi...), is this what you mean?
Last edited by laoshan; 05-04-2009 at 07:33 PM.
05-04-2009, 07:41 PM
#12
Thank you, pmohr. Now I know that indeed I almost made a big mistake. By the way, what do I mount my ground cable to that bolt. It seems I have no choice but to put the cable connector in between the bolt and starter (not between starter and trans, as you said that would be so stupi...), is this what you mean?
Never said you shouldn't.
05-04-2009, 07:45 PM
#13
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Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 4
Thank you so much. I got what all I need to know tonight. I will have a very good sleep now. By the way, I am living in Canada and and everyone here is being ripped off by those expensive car parts and car garages and car dealers. Good night, pmohr! You are a such nice person.
11-16-2009, 05:36 PM
#14
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Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 2
Jesus, no. Why the hell would you connect a ground cable to what you know is a positive hookup?
You can just mount it on one of the two mounting bolts.
No, it won't affect...tightness.
You obviously don't mount it between the starter and the trans, that would just be...yea.
You can just mount it on one of the two mounting bolts.
No, it won't affect...tightness.
You obviously don't mount it between the starter and the trans, that would just be...yea.
soo...what would happen if in fact you hooked up a ground cable to a positive terminal of the starter?
11-16-2009, 06:00 PM
#15
Sparks. Potentially, blow fuses; burn some circuits maybe, and a hole in your wallet.... I think. (paraphrasing from the DIY videos, HA HA HA, HOooooo)
Keep track of what you're unhooking/unscrewing; mark it if you have to with color tape, or whatever, and put it back the way it was before you touched it... is the way to go.
Keep track of what you're unhooking/unscrewing; mark it if you have to with color tape, or whatever, and put it back the way it was before you touched it... is the way to go.
Last edited by atriuum; 11-16-2009 at 06:04 PM.
11-18-2009, 08:15 AM
#16
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Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 10
Starting issue Maxima 99 GXE auto.
It seems to take longer to start the car (noticeable longer). I checked the battery as follows:
Before starting the car: 12.5V
After starting the car: 14.5V
After starting the car with heater and radio and lights on: 14.1V
This leads me to believe that Battery/Alternator are OK.
Battery is about 5 years old. All other parts are original.
Do you guys think it is a starter issue?
Thank you.
Roman.
Before starting the car: 12.5V
After starting the car: 14.5V
After starting the car with heater and radio and lights on: 14.1V
This leads me to believe that Battery/Alternator are OK.
Battery is about 5 years old. All other parts are original.
Do you guys think it is a starter issue?
Thank you.
Roman.
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