VQ30DE TO VQ30DE-K swap with no spark
#1
VQ30DE TO VQ30DE-K swap with no spark
i have swap a vq30de engine with 185 mil over it
for a vq30de-k with around 40 mil on it,
all the needed re-wiring was made, because the other transm of the de-k was manual, not a lot of job.
most of all the plugs remains the same but in different positions. everything went right but.
the car have no spark.
all the sensors have been changed with the old engine, for the security they all work,
i ask, did the ecu of my 96 vq30de need to be swaped for the ecu of the vq30de-k for the car to start. ?
did i miss something, im a newbie
thanks for you help
post.: pmhor i give up with the old engine, to much trouble, it was working but it was not the same, so i get the above mentioned vq30de-k
for a vq30de-k with around 40 mil on it,
all the needed re-wiring was made, because the other transm of the de-k was manual, not a lot of job.
most of all the plugs remains the same but in different positions. everything went right but.
the car have no spark.
all the sensors have been changed with the old engine, for the security they all work,
i ask, did the ecu of my 96 vq30de need to be swaped for the ecu of the vq30de-k for the car to start. ?
did i miss something, im a newbie
thanks for you help
post.: pmhor i give up with the old engine, to much trouble, it was working but it was not the same, so i get the above mentioned vq30de-k
#2
All of what sensors?
Exactly what rewiring did you do?
No, you don't need the DE-K ECU. You can't even use the DE-K ECU.
Have you checked the timing ring and the timing teeth on the crank pulley?
Exactly what rewiring did you do?
No, you don't need the DE-K ECU. You can't even use the DE-K ECU.
Have you checked the timing ring and the timing teeth on the crank pulley?
#3
the sensor for the crank, the cam, and the front of tranms, are all of the vq30de, i think they are the same.?
yes, we checked the timing ring before the installation and was ok, he is from the old engine, and was working perfectly before the unmount.
the rewiring made was to put together all the parts of the wiring harness, because my old wiring harness was too old and burned, we decided to make a mix of the 2 harness because this new one didn't have the connectors for the automatic transmission.
yes, we checked the timing ring before the installation and was ok, he is from the old engine, and was working perfectly before the unmount.
the rewiring made was to put together all the parts of the wiring harness, because my old wiring harness was too old and burned, we decided to make a mix of the 2 harness because this new one didn't have the connectors for the automatic transmission.
#5
the sensor for the crank, the cam, and the front of tranms, are all of the vq30de, i think they are the same.?
yes, we checked the timing ring before the installation and was ok, he is from the old engine, and was working perfectly before the unmount.
the rewiring made was to put together all the parts of the wiring harness, because my old wiring harness was too old and burned, we decided to make a mix of the 2 harness because this new one didn't have the connectors for the automatic transmission.
yes, we checked the timing ring before the installation and was ok, he is from the old engine, and was working perfectly before the unmount.
the rewiring made was to put together all the parts of the wiring harness, because my old wiring harness was too old and burned, we decided to make a mix of the 2 harness because this new one didn't have the connectors for the automatic transmission.
No, it's not indexed.
#6
near the ecu harness connector immediately after the harness go out of the interior, exactly near the rear o2 connector.
the car crank but didn't have spark, so I've checked that all the sensors have signal from the ecu, all the joints of wire have been soldered properly and masked before they've put inside the harness, all have been checked for continuity and are OK.
thanks
the car crank but didn't have spark, so I've checked that all the sensors have signal from the ecu, all the joints of wire have been soldered properly and masked before they've put inside the harness, all have been checked for continuity and are OK.
thanks
#9
The inhibitor will keep it from cranking, it's not the problem here.
#12
pmohr the new engine is in extremely good conditions, but could this no spark issue have something involved with the timming chain?, the engine seems have never been under reparations, doesnt have oil leaks or dirty at all.
You wouldn't happen to be getting any codes, would you?
#13
Does the ECU light even come on when the key is just in the "on" position?
And also check the eccs fuse under the hood
and also just for clearification you should list which one of these you have in your car
1) What year is the car
2) What year ECU
3) What year harness did you wire up
The reason why i ask is some of those parts are inchangable but there will be slight diffrences between the years Especially if its a 99 anything your going to run into issues
And also check the eccs fuse under the hood
and also just for clearification you should list which one of these you have in your car
1) What year is the car
2) What year ECU
3) What year harness did you wire up
The reason why i ask is some of those parts are inchangable but there will be slight diffrences between the years Especially if its a 99 anything your going to run into issues
#14
eccs fuse under the hood is good
the car is 1996
the ecu is the B7 1996
the harnnes is the 1996 automatic, the same the car bring from factory
yes the ecu ligth turns on when the key in the on position
i read the codes with the blink methods, and say 0403, 0803, 0807
0403- Throttle Position Sensor
0803- Absolute Pressure Sensor
0806- EVAP Canister purge control valve/soenoid valve circuit
i think any of those codes prevent the car from have spark.
the car is 1996
the ecu is the B7 1996
the harnnes is the 1996 automatic, the same the car bring from factory
yes the ecu ligth turns on when the key in the on position
i read the codes with the blink methods, and say 0403, 0803, 0807
0403- Throttle Position Sensor
0803- Absolute Pressure Sensor
0806- EVAP Canister purge control valve/soenoid valve circuit
i think any of those codes prevent the car from have spark.
Last edited by carlostelevida; 04-29-2009 at 07:50 PM.
#15
eccs fuse under the hood is good
the car is 1996
the ecu is the B7 1996
the harnnes is the 1996 automatic, the same the car bring from factory
yes the ecu ligth turns on when the key in the on position
i read the codes with the blink methods, and say 0403, 0803, 0807
the car is 1996
the ecu is the B7 1996
the harnnes is the 1996 automatic, the same the car bring from factory
yes the ecu ligth turns on when the key in the on position
i read the codes with the blink methods, and say 0403, 0803, 0807
Code: P0120 | Description: Throttle Position Sensor
Code: P0105 | Description: Absolute Pressure Sensor
Code: P0443 | Description: EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve/Solenoid Valve
The only thing I can potentially see causing an issue is the TPS, but that's extremely far fetched.
Honestly the first thing I'd suspect is the hacked up engine control harness, but assuming that was done perfectly...
Double check that both CKPS' and the CPS check out fine per the FSM, then make sure they're getting a reading on all of the various timing teeth.
I'm also assuming that you've tested continuity on the coil pack wiring back to the ECU? And that all of the coils are verified working?
And you did check for spark on all 6, correct?
Was this engine verified as running when you bought it?
#17
yeah none of those would prevent you from a spark. But a tps will cause drivablity issues and maybe a start up issue but not likely. And it wouldnt prevent you from having a spark
Last edited by Product_Of_Korea; 04-29-2009 at 08:13 PM.
#18
all the coils were working on the old engine, with the same engine harness, so my car was running when i decided to make the swap because there were 2 piston not working the piston 1 and 2 of the old engine were not working because of bend valves, thats another story, but anyway the car was working with the old harness, so the conectors of the old harness that were good, for ex. the cam sensors and crank all were good, so it wasnt touched, the harness was messed in the area of the coils, and really is not that hard to replace wires, so i asume here are not problems with the wiring,the only thing i can think of is the conector that go to the pulley sensor and to the inyectors in the rear bank, i didnt swap this, because i asume this was the same, and was in good condition in the new engine, here too is the oil pan conector.
I perfectly could be wrong.
are this diferent in the vq30de-k, with my knowledge of electronics i know that only 1 wire diferent can cause the ecu to not recognize the electrics parts.
I perfectly could be wrong.
are this diferent in the vq30de-k, with my knowledge of electronics i know that only 1 wire diferent can cause the ecu to not recognize the electrics parts.
Last edited by carlostelevida; 04-29-2009 at 08:25 PM.
#19
all the coils were working on the old engine, with the same engine harness, so my car was running when i decided to make the swap because there were 2 piston not working the piston 1 and 2 of the old engine were not working because of bend valves, thats another story, but anyway the car was working with the old harness, so the conectors of the old harness that were good, for ex. the cam sensors and crank all were good, so it wasnt touched, the harness was messed in the area of the coils, and really is not that hard to replace wires, so i asume here are not problems with the wiring,the only think i can think of is the conector that go to the pulley sensor and to the inyectors in the rear bank, i didnt swap this, because i asume this was the same, and was in good condition in the new engine, here too is the oil pan conector i perfectly could be wrong. and i hope this is my problem
Did you or did you not test for spark in all 6 cylinders? Have you not made sure that the harness is good between the coils and the ECU?
So you're using the DE coils on the DE-K? Meaning you modified the rears to make them fit, or...
#20
Did you hook up the ground that has those two EYE CONNECTORS that use to go to the old vq30de upper manifold or lower i cant really recall. If you did, where is it grounded to??
Last edited by Product_Of_Korea; 04-29-2009 at 08:34 PM.
#23
What's to explain? You haven't answered any of the last few questions asked of you...
#28
And the two grounds we're talking about are rear of the front bank of injectors, they bolt up to the DE LIM; the DE-K has no spot for them.
#29
phmor i´m in dominican republic but i could call you if you give me your cellular number, i think, besides that´s not a good idea because we didnt have the oportunity to interact in the forum, and let all the knowledge saved in the database for future users, but im desesperate.
man i want to cry
man i want to cry
#30
phmor i´m in dominican republic but i could call you if you give me your cellular number, i think, besides that´s not a good idea because we didnt have the oportunity to interact in the forum, and let all the knowledge saved in the database for future users, but im desesperate.
man i want to cry
man i want to cry
Without you helping us help you, this is going nowhere.
#31
i´m lose here, i asume you´re talking about the cables that came out the of harness bettwen the front bank of the inyectors, they´re two pairs of cables, 4 cables in total, they´re fixed with bolts to the base of the manifold
#32
These:
Base of the UIM, or the LIM?
Are they mounted to plastic or metal?
#34
#35
yes i can remember they´re mounted in the metal, i bend up the plastic gasket of the manifold to put them on line, i remember i left one outside, could this cause the problem ?
i left one out, i dont remember the reason but i left one out
i left one out, i dont remember the reason but i left one out
#36
So you only mounted one set, and left the other dangling?
Do it the proper way, mount them both somewhere else. Don't just stick them in between the two manifolds...
#39