Autozone CV axle(halfshaft) experience
05-23-2009, 09:57 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 103
Autozone CV axle(halfshaft) experience
I have a 99 GXE auto with 112K miles. Last week, I heard the dreaded clicking noise on right turns (and now I knew why I was feeling strong vibrations at highway speed for the last 3 weeks - I had discounted that to an out of balance tire and was thinking of going to the tire shop for my 5K balance and rotation). Sure enough, driver's side cv boot had ripped.
Anyways, I read a few threads here about CV axles, and with Autozone's LLT policy, was reeled in. What more, Autozone's new shaft was (7917N) was cheaper (USD 64.99 v/s 69.99) than rebuilt (part number 7917). In addition to that, the new shaft did not have any core charge, while the rebuilt one had a 30 $ charge. So, I thought buying new made more financial sense. Big mistake, it turns out.
I bought the new axle from autozone, jacked my car up, removed my existing halfshaft - this was the easy part.
First impression - the original cv boots and axle appeared to be of much superior quality than the Autozone part 7917N.
Now - I get the new axle out from the box, and lifted it up from one end. Pop, the inner joint just popped out, and just would not go back in. Cleaned up a bit, changed back to regular clothes and carried this axle back to autozone. The store did not have a replacement, told me to drive to a nearby store (6 miles), and I got a replacement axle from them. This one, I was more careful with, and installed it without a problem.
However, I heard clicking on my first test drive - obviously, this was a bum axle. Jacked up car, opened axle nut and lug nuts, removed caliper, removed the bolts that anchor the hub assembly to the strut, and while I was trying to pry the axle splines out of the hub, the inner end popped out !!! arrgghhh... (this was with axle number 2). Looks like autozone has not been installing retainers in the inner joint. But this was absolutely awful, because now the axle length was way too long, and removing it was impossible. I removed the strut/coil assembly - but even that didn't bring enough play to remove the axle from the hub. I thought I would get additional play in the hub if I removed the tie rod and stabilizer bar linkage - so had to make another trip to get a pitman tool to remove the tie-rod - and then I removed the stabilizer linkage. With that, I now had enough play in the hub to free the axle.
By now I was pretty mad - this was way too much work for something that should have been a 20 minute job.
Went back to yet another Autozone ( cos only that one had it in stock), got yet another replacement - and decided that if this one fails, no more Autozone axle - I will bite the bullet and order from raxles.com (as recommended by a lot of folks on this newsgroup).
Thankfully, the third axle turned out to be okay - though, I doubt if it will last close to 10 years like the original.
Some folks on this newsgroup have also recommended NAPA - and the only reason I did not go with NAPA is because they do not have Limited Lifetime replacement warranty. Big mistake - cos the pain I got from my Autozone LLT install, I don't think I am going to pay any heed to LLT in future.
Just for kicks, I went to NAPA to check the quality of their Remanufactured axle (part number NMD955214 $ 51.99 + $ 11 core). On visual inspection, and touch and feel of the CV boots, the NAPA part does appear to be much better built (in fact, almost identical to the original Nissan axle). The autozone CV boots and axle feel much more flimsy in comparison. When my passenger side axle CV boots go, I will use NAPA shafts and post my experience here again. I am going to be hesitant buying autozone axles (at least not the new part 7917N - maybe their remanufactured one - 7917 - is better - it costs more than the new one - but alas, none of the stores nearby carry the Rmfgd part -go figure).
So the 20 minute job took 5 hours, 4 trips to the store, a lot of elbow grease - and the lesson I learned is not to be suckered in by LLT warranty in future.
Now, I that I have vented - just so that others may have the benefit of my experience, it is time to have a cold un.
Cheers.
Anyways, I read a few threads here about CV axles, and with Autozone's LLT policy, was reeled in. What more, Autozone's new shaft was (7917N) was cheaper (USD 64.99 v/s 69.99) than rebuilt (part number 7917). In addition to that, the new shaft did not have any core charge, while the rebuilt one had a 30 $ charge. So, I thought buying new made more financial sense. Big mistake, it turns out.
I bought the new axle from autozone, jacked my car up, removed my existing halfshaft - this was the easy part.
First impression - the original cv boots and axle appeared to be of much superior quality than the Autozone part 7917N.
Now - I get the new axle out from the box, and lifted it up from one end. Pop, the inner joint just popped out, and just would not go back in. Cleaned up a bit, changed back to regular clothes and carried this axle back to autozone. The store did not have a replacement, told me to drive to a nearby store (6 miles), and I got a replacement axle from them. This one, I was more careful with, and installed it without a problem.
However, I heard clicking on my first test drive - obviously, this was a bum axle. Jacked up car, opened axle nut and lug nuts, removed caliper, removed the bolts that anchor the hub assembly to the strut, and while I was trying to pry the axle splines out of the hub, the inner end popped out !!! arrgghhh... (this was with axle number 2). Looks like autozone has not been installing retainers in the inner joint. But this was absolutely awful, because now the axle length was way too long, and removing it was impossible. I removed the strut/coil assembly - but even that didn't bring enough play to remove the axle from the hub. I thought I would get additional play in the hub if I removed the tie rod and stabilizer bar linkage - so had to make another trip to get a pitman tool to remove the tie-rod - and then I removed the stabilizer linkage. With that, I now had enough play in the hub to free the axle.
By now I was pretty mad - this was way too much work for something that should have been a 20 minute job.
Went back to yet another Autozone ( cos only that one had it in stock), got yet another replacement - and decided that if this one fails, no more Autozone axle - I will bite the bullet and order from raxles.com (as recommended by a lot of folks on this newsgroup).
Thankfully, the third axle turned out to be okay - though, I doubt if it will last close to 10 years like the original.
Some folks on this newsgroup have also recommended NAPA - and the only reason I did not go with NAPA is because they do not have Limited Lifetime replacement warranty. Big mistake - cos the pain I got from my Autozone LLT install, I don't think I am going to pay any heed to LLT in future.
Just for kicks, I went to NAPA to check the quality of their Remanufactured axle (part number NMD955214 $ 51.99 + $ 11 core). On visual inspection, and touch and feel of the CV boots, the NAPA part does appear to be much better built (in fact, almost identical to the original Nissan axle). The autozone CV boots and axle feel much more flimsy in comparison. When my passenger side axle CV boots go, I will use NAPA shafts and post my experience here again. I am going to be hesitant buying autozone axles (at least not the new part 7917N - maybe their remanufactured one - 7917 - is better - it costs more than the new one - but alas, none of the stores nearby carry the Rmfgd part -go figure).
So the 20 minute job took 5 hours, 4 trips to the store, a lot of elbow grease - and the lesson I learned is not to be suckered in by LLT warranty in future.
Now, I that I have vented - just so that others may have the benefit of my experience, it is time to have a cold un.
Cheers.
Last edited by mbhang; 05-23-2009 at 10:05 PM.
05-24-2009, 06:14 AM
#2
1997 Nissan Maxima SE
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Illinois
Posts: 110
I hear every one bashing Autozone, but has anyone had similar problems with say Carquest, O'Reilly's or Pep Boys?
I do not have a favorite auto part store, so I was just wondering if the same problem exist with other part stores or just Autozone? I also understand that not buying a OEM part that you run the risk of taking a 20 minute job and turning it into a 2 hour job!
I do not have a favorite auto part store, so I was just wondering if the same problem exist with other part stores or just Autozone? I also understand that not buying a OEM part that you run the risk of taking a 20 minute job and turning it into a 2 hour job!
05-24-2009, 06:19 AM
#3
Damn, both of mine just recently went south, the boots peeled open, and i was considering autozone, after reading this, i have reconsidered, there is a Napa across the street and ill just go there.
05-24-2009, 07:18 AM
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 103
I didn't mean to bash Autozone - their Remans may be good
I didn't mean to dish autozone - I have used parts from them in the past (brake caliper, hoses, belts, o2 sensor etc), and have had no complaints.
Their reman axles may also be good, but I had no idea about what they feel like as none of the stores nearby had them in stock, they said they could order it, and it would take 3 days.
My tale of caution is only with their "BRAND NEW" axle - which happens to be 35 dollars cheaper than their REMAN (if you consider core charges). Maybe, the adage "you get what you pay for" applies here. I think the sliding joints on the part I got - part number 7917N - have been installed without a retaining clip, and therefore it pops out so easily.
Autozone is the best place when it comes to honoring warranties - man, none of the store's folks raised an eyebrow when I got 2 replacements within 2 hours - both with popped out sliding joint.
The third axle seems to be performing well.
I would suggest that folks go and check out Autozone's REMAN axles and compare it with their BRAND NEW axle and NAPA REMAN axle before making the decision.
Their reman axles may also be good, but I had no idea about what they feel like as none of the stores nearby had them in stock, they said they could order it, and it would take 3 days.
My tale of caution is only with their "BRAND NEW" axle - which happens to be 35 dollars cheaper than their REMAN (if you consider core charges). Maybe, the adage "you get what you pay for" applies here. I think the sliding joints on the part I got - part number 7917N - have been installed without a retaining clip, and therefore it pops out so easily.
Autozone is the best place when it comes to honoring warranties - man, none of the store's folks raised an eyebrow when I got 2 replacements within 2 hours - both with popped out sliding joint.
The third axle seems to be performing well.
I would suggest that folks go and check out Autozone's REMAN axles and compare it with their BRAND NEW axle and NAPA REMAN axle before making the decision.
05-24-2009, 11:48 AM
#5
went to local trusted shop earlier this year for new passenger side CV half shaft.
already did it myself 100k ago and didn't feel like doing it again.
mechanic says he will never buy from NAPA because he had 2 NAPA remans fall apart as vehicles were driving out his driveway.
already did it myself 100k ago and didn't feel like doing it again.
mechanic says he will never buy from NAPA because he had 2 NAPA remans fall apart as vehicles were driving out his driveway.
05-25-2009, 09:34 PM
#8
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 103
Update - third one is the charm
The third one - third day on with it. Yesterday, I took a 60 mile drive, took it on the freeway - and it did behave quite well.
Today, I went on the twisties - which is highway 1 North of San Francisco - to Point Reyes. The car behaved, and so did the halfshaft.
Now that the 20 minute job that became a 5 hour job is a distant memory - and I would give Autozone the benefit of doubt - maybe the 2 axles were bum, maybe they are all missing the retainer on the sliding inner joint - but the axle does perform well.
Today, I went on the twisties - which is highway 1 North of San Francisco - to Point Reyes. The car behaved, and so did the halfshaft.
Now that the 20 minute job that became a 5 hour job is a distant memory - and I would give Autozone the benefit of doubt - maybe the 2 axles were bum, maybe they are all missing the retainer on the sliding inner joint - but the axle does perform well.
06-06-2009, 10:35 PM
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 103
Now - the passenger side goes 2 weeks later
Guess what,
The passenger side axles outer cv boot went. I swear I checked it 2 weeks back, and they seemed solid - I guess, the adage - replace both axles at the same time makes a lot more sense now.
I wanted to try out the NAPA rmfgd part, but as some folks had posted that NAPA axles also had issues, so I decided to try out the Cardone Remanufactured axles/halfshaft that Kragen (O'reilly - Advance Auto, Checkers now) sells (that comes with LLT warranty).
First thing I noticed, Autozone axles came with the axle nut, Cardone axle didn't. No big deal, reused the old nut - dunno if that is a no-no. Keeping the hub caps off, just in case the axle nut comes loose.
Another thing - NAPA has $11 core, while Kragen charges $75. Anyways, I was going with Kragen's cardone - and here is my experience.
I also noticed that the axle was missing the Oil seal dust cover. No big deal, I used a mallet to get the one out from my core, and was able to mount it.
The boots appeared to be much better (thickness as well as feel - very unscientific opinion) on the cardone axle as compared to the autozone axle I used on the driver's side 2 weeks ago.
One procedure I highly recommend ( though not required in the Haynes/Chilton manual) is that you should also remove the Strut/spring assembly. That gives you much more room - and also protects the cv boots from the strut joint while you are trying to maneuver the axle in.
Passenger side dis-assembly takes a little more effort due to the three bolts on the journal bearing. I highly recommend using ratchet ring spanners. The most difficult bolt is on top, and is most easily approached from the side (looking towards the trans-axle from the hub), rather than going under the car (provided strut/spring assembly is out of the way). Removing the oxygen sensor also helps, especially if you have large hands.
The assembly went without issues (no joints popping out like my previous autozone experience).
I went for a short test drive - 5 miles - mix of 25 mph and freeway sprint.
No clicking noise so far. Car is handling well, as always. This one had much less pain overall than my original experience. I don't know if I will keep this car another ten years - but if it is still around, I will know which axle (autozone/duralast-NEW or kragen/cardone-Remanufacture) last longer.
Helping myself to a cold un - wife is mad - I told her I deserve one.
The passenger side axles outer cv boot went. I swear I checked it 2 weeks back, and they seemed solid - I guess, the adage - replace both axles at the same time makes a lot more sense now.
I wanted to try out the NAPA rmfgd part, but as some folks had posted that NAPA axles also had issues, so I decided to try out the Cardone Remanufactured axles/halfshaft that Kragen (O'reilly - Advance Auto, Checkers now) sells (that comes with LLT warranty).
First thing I noticed, Autozone axles came with the axle nut, Cardone axle didn't. No big deal, reused the old nut - dunno if that is a no-no. Keeping the hub caps off, just in case the axle nut comes loose.
Another thing - NAPA has $11 core, while Kragen charges $75. Anyways, I was going with Kragen's cardone - and here is my experience.
I also noticed that the axle was missing the Oil seal dust cover. No big deal, I used a mallet to get the one out from my core, and was able to mount it.
The boots appeared to be much better (thickness as well as feel - very unscientific opinion) on the cardone axle as compared to the autozone axle I used on the driver's side 2 weeks ago.
One procedure I highly recommend ( though not required in the Haynes/Chilton manual) is that you should also remove the Strut/spring assembly. That gives you much more room - and also protects the cv boots from the strut joint while you are trying to maneuver the axle in.
Passenger side dis-assembly takes a little more effort due to the three bolts on the journal bearing. I highly recommend using ratchet ring spanners. The most difficult bolt is on top, and is most easily approached from the side (looking towards the trans-axle from the hub), rather than going under the car (provided strut/spring assembly is out of the way). Removing the oxygen sensor also helps, especially if you have large hands.
The assembly went without issues (no joints popping out like my previous autozone experience).
I went for a short test drive - 5 miles - mix of 25 mph and freeway sprint.
No clicking noise so far. Car is handling well, as always. This one had much less pain overall than my original experience. I don't know if I will keep this car another ten years - but if it is still around, I will know which axle (autozone/duralast-NEW or kragen/cardone-Remanufacture) last longer.
Helping myself to a cold un - wife is mad - I told her I deserve one.
Last edited by mbhang; 06-06-2009 at 10:39 PM.
06-07-2009, 09:03 AM
#11
Hey at least you can do the job with your arms tied behind your back now. I installed Napa remans on my fathers old 96 auto back in 00 or 01. The car was lowered for some time with no issues what so ever. Ive installed Advanced Auto "new" axles in a 96 5 spd which took a dump with a 2" drop and aggressive driving. I also put Advance's new axle my 94 B13. Only time will tell if they can handle slicks and stage 5 clutch lol. The lifetime warranty is nice and they are cost effective but they arent OEM.
06-07-2009, 07:33 PM
#12
I had the same thing happen to me when the axle popped out of joint. They are also autozone. I thought it was me doing something wrong. But swapping them out at autozone is very simple. dont even need a receipt, they just look it up on their computer. I will still use autozone for everything.
07-13-2009, 11:05 AM
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 47
I hear every one bashing Autozone, but has anyone had similar problems with say Carquest, O'Reilly's or Pep Boys?
I do not have a favorite auto part store, so I was just wondering if the same problem exist with other part stores or just Autozone? I also understand that not buying a OEM part that you run the risk of taking a 20 minute job and turning it into a 2 hour job!
I do not have a favorite auto part store, so I was just wondering if the same problem exist with other part stores or just Autozone? I also understand that not buying a OEM part that you run the risk of taking a 20 minute job and turning it into a 2 hour job!
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