So I was driving into work today with the radio on and headlights off (don't know if that is pertinent or not) when I noticed that the battery warning light, under the tach, was on along with the light that lets me know that my e-brake is pulled up, except my e-brake was not on. I drove like that for about 15 minutes and noticed no change in performance, the interior lights didn't seem to dim, along with no other signs of the battery slowly loosing charge. My cars has had some electrical shorts before and that's what I am hoping this is. Any ideas what other problems might be causing this. I am going to put a volt meter on it at lunch. Also I replaced my starter about 2 months ago (again don't know if that is pertinent). Thanks in advance.

 

Test the charging system. Not with a multimeter, but under load.

Always do the most obvious (and free) testing first.

 

What do you mean not with a multimeter, but under load? Sorry if that is a dumb question.

 

Get the batt and charging system tested at an auto parts store.

 

don't find yourself too far from tools, a garage and a replacement alternator, or you'll be replacing it in a parking lot like I had to.

if you search, you'll find numerous threads on those trouble lights, which usually mean imminent failure of your alternator, though it could be belt, pulley related if you're lucky.

My experience is that mechanics do not properly seat the special nut that mounts the alternator to the block (side closest to firewall). It comes loose, vibration begins, and next thing you know, your toolbox is displayed in a parking lot along with your AC compressor and assorted other parts.

 

 

Thanks for the hints. I hooked up a volt meter to the battery and it was idling around 11 volts and I turned the lights on and it went down to 9.5. This tells me that it is probably the alternator that is no good. That being said how hard is it to replace the alternator? Phaedrus you said you did it in a parking lot; is it a manageable task with the right tools? Do you have to do anything silly like take the compressor off?

General instructions would be helpful if you can remember how you did it.

 

It's been a long time since I last did my alternator, so I cannot give you specific instructions...BUT I can say you don't have to completely remove the compressor. I unbolted it and just moved it aside as I removed and installed the alternator. Fairly straighforward process...but you want to be careful with adjusting the belts when you are done. I ended up having to buy another pulley assembly (I think that's what it's called) due to overtightening.

I think motorvate has the write up that I used to install. Run a quick search and I am sure it'll come up.

 

Personally i agree with taking it to a auto parts store and get it checked out. Im sure they will do it for free. What if it isnt the alternator??? Then your replacing parts that dont need to be replaced.

I would

take out alternator
take out battery
take them both up to oriely's or what ever you may have

Least which ever of them is wrong your half way there.......

Alternator is a very easy job. No more than losening a couple of bolts and connections. Just remeber to losen the bolt on the actual pully before loosening the tensioner.

 

remove the battery cables and test voltage.. it might be a bad battery... on the other hand.. just take it to vatozone or advance autoparts they test for free

 

This sounds familiar... I have a 97 GLE that, ever since my mom bought the car back in 1999, has a bad habit of eating up alternators. I have to buy one every 2 years. I've had the car for about 10 months now, a gift from my mom. My mother warned me that it was time to get a new alternator on the car, but being a college student, it was tough coming up with the money. It finally hit me how important it was to get it changed. I was on my way to work one day, in the middle of a rainstorm back in April, when the brake light and the battery light came on. At first I thought the brake fluid was low, but then why would the battery light come on, right? Well, I got to work, was able to park the car and then get it to start up on my way home later that night, but when I turned on my headlights, the lights were very dim and the battery light and the brake light stayed on. My radio was going in and out. It was raining hard and my windshield wipers moved very slowly on high-speed. Its a 20 mile drive one way from my house to my job. I thuoght the car was going to die on me on the way home, so I sped home at like 90 mph (thank God there were no CHP on duty), trying to keep the car alive until I at least made it back to my house. I made it home, parked the Maxima, and it shut off before I even turned the key... I had a mechanic come and charge the battery for me so I could drive it to his shop (free of course... its good to know people). Turns out it was my alternator and the dying alternator was still under warranty, so I got a new one without paying a cent!

I know that was a long story, but its sorta weird hearing it happen to someone else. I'm pretty sure you just need a new alternator. I love this car, and I plan on keeping it for at least another 3 or 4 years. The cost to get my electrical system repaired is far more than the actual worth of my car. I am alright just paying $300 every two years for a new alternator. Of course, others might not agree, but thats just me. But, IMO, you more than likely have a dying alternator and just need a new one.

 

I went through 3 alt. before my machanic instruct me to check my alt fuse. once i change that also... i had no more problem with alt. when changing your alt check your fuse also and change if needed.

 

you should search, plenty of write-ups on this, along with motorvate's write up. It's a PITA job, but not actually hard, only basic tools are needed. You may find collateral damage along the way, such as the belt tensioner pulley. I removed the AC compressor when I did it, but I have read that you can just move it. The clearances are very tight. Make sure that custom nut with the flange is tightened down real snug.

 

I replaced the alternator this weekend and it seemed to fix everything. Phaedrus was right it is a PITA job about 2 hours, with some breaks. I also replaced the serpentine belt while I was at it. I removed the fan shroud as per the instructions on motorvate's site (which is accurate and thorough), http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/500. Both the battery light and the e-brake light went away. Thanks to everyone for their suggestions.

 

I know this is an old thread, but for searchers sake, battery and brake light indicators together (plus others?) is caused by shorted out diodes in the alt. Just had that problem on 99 Maxima, had local parts store run the diagnostic, they said shorted diodes. I replaced alt, problem solved. Parts stored confirmed short when old alt was returned as core.

 

This site motorvate's site never works for me...every time i try i only can get to the homepage and that's it none of the links work they only redirect me back to the homepage. Is it sometime i'm doing or maybe the wrong browser.