oddball86

So I have a warm starting issue. It happens sometimes (intermittent) maybe once a week or so. It can happen when the car has sat for 5 minutes or a couple hours, but only when temp is still near regular operating temperature.

What it does:

The car will crank good, but will not start. I have tried giving it more gas with no difference. I have let it crank for 5-10 seconds and nothing. Usually if I try it a couple of times and then wait a few minutes it will start normally.
I had a crankshaft position sensor ref (one by oil filter) code earlier, so I cleaned it off and measured the room temp resistance. I had a resistance of ~500 ohms when the FSM says 370-470 ohms. After cleaning it I have had no codes from it.

I could get a new CPS ref but I have been reading and wonder if you guys might think it is the engine coolant temp sensor or the sending unit. I am thinking that I will check the starter grounds and clean the throttle body, and check the resistance on the ECTS. However, if you guys have any other ideas that might be it please help me add them to my do to list…

Oh, if it matters I occasionally get a Three-way catalyst CEL code but it appears to be unrelated to the starting issue.

Air filter is good
Plugs are 30K (NGK Plats)
New fuel pressure regulator

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Indeed, I'd check the ECTS first for temperature-related starting issues. Temperature vs resistance chart is in the FSM.

oddball86

I'll check it out today and update after I do. Thanks pmohr.

oddball86

Finally, pulled the ECTS on Friday, I needed some tools I didn't have so I had to wait to use my friends stuff. Any case, when I checked the ECTS at roomish temp it read 1.5 kohm when the FSM says it should be 2.1-2.9 at room temp. I got a new one at autozone, and it read ~2 kohm when I measured it before I left the store. I had it in my pocket on the drive back to my car and when I measured it right before I put it in and it read lower like 1.6-1.7 kohm. So I don't know if that was the issue but I put it in anyway.

I also checked the starter ( didn't see how it could be the starter but why not) since as all the intake stuff was out to make it easy to get to the ECTS. The starter is fine.

The issue hasn't happened since, however, it has only been a few days so we'll have to see.

I have noticed that the cranking time before firing up is longer than I remember (sometimes 1-2 seconds), so I am wondering if it's a fuel issue. I have also noticed that when I stop the car, if I let it idle for a second before I turn it off I have yet to see it not start when I try to start it warm.

So, I am going to wait and see if it happens again. If it does I think I might take it to a mechanic to check the fuel pump/ filter. that is of course, unless its easy to tell if these things are okay or need to be replaced.

Tyler

oddball86

Just happened again. Grrr... Some people are saying vapor lock, but that seems odd for a newer injected car... But it does make me think maybe the pump or filter is goofy.

Any ideas of what I should do next?

oddball86

Just tried to leave my friends house and got thre 3 way cat and the Crankahaft position sensor codes. And it clicked in my head, its sounds like a stuck injector! as that would explain the issues of not being able to start after sitting for a while do to fuel pressure loss. It would also point to the cause of the 3 way cat code.

Here's what I need to know, I was planning on going out of town tomorrow. And I have to work in the morning. Is this something that will make the car inoperativable or is it okay to drive 360 miles this weekend before trying to determine the cause and fix the injector?

IE will my car not start cold? Will it stall? Currently I have yet to notice any drivability issues... I don't want to be stuck in northern Minnesota with no way of getting home...

oddball86

UPDATE:

I checked the injectors cold and they were all 11.6-11.7 ohms. I plan on retesting with engine warm tonight. This weekend I am going to probably pull the injectors and check for leaks. Then I am going to check the coil packs. I think then I will move on to the ignition switch, clean the cam shaft sensor and both crankshaft sensors. Then Probably then put in the new fuel filter, current one is 32k old. Then clean the PCV and IACV.

Any other ideas?

oddball86

Not that anyone cares. But I changed the fuel filter and am trying to cause the no start situation again. And it is still doing it so I shall move on to the next part. Also the injector resistances are all the same warm (checked they immediately after the no start).

I scheduled to take it into the dealership in two weeks. So I have until then to figure it out or prepare to bend over...


Tyler

wxm

iTrader: (2)

Replaced the PCV valve yet?

oddball86

That is the next on the list. Will update when I get it done...

Update: PCV still good as per thread:

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...egr-valve.html

Also I rechecked all of the coil packs after putting them back in the car and running them back up to operational temp and there are all the same more or less. I also pulled them one by one to make sure that they were all actaully firing and they were. So they appear to be okay.

I think I'm going to check the cam and other crank sensor as I'm starting to think this is a sensor issue...

oddball86

Drumroll Please.... With over 20 starts warm and no non starts

<---This guy!!!

I cleaned off the camshaft position sensor as due to the valve cover gasket leak it was covered in gunk. And the car has not not started since. I did get codes once 0702 and 0407. I'll see how it goes, but it seems like it may be a sensor (crank/cam) issue.

Woot for me...

eilison

Hey, oddball86,
I'm also working on my starting problem. It seems like I've got a bigger hot potato than yours. Your symptom is one of mine, check out my thread for more info. I uploaded two video clips, but I haven't solved my puzzle yet.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...rs-starts.html

hope it helps!
Alex

amorak

I am having a warm start issue on my grand-dads 95 Maxima.

It will start fine when cold (ie in the garage when he's going out shopping) however, once he drives it in the hot summer weather and parks, when he comes back to the car he has to crank in like 5 times to get it to start (it will eventually start).
It sounds like textbook vapour lock, but I am not sure where to start in terms of looking for 'common' culprits. Has anyone had any experience with this type of issue ?

Thanks!