Code 1335 the code I have is the ref crank sensor, the one by the oil pan. the one you speak of is the pos crank sensor, which threw no codes...Should that also mess with the spark?

 

Yes its responsible for spark it seems

 

I plugged all six back in and it cranks pretty smooth, then stopped again. I took out the one plug and put a rag over it and cranked it again, and it shot the rag up onto my roof with a gush of fuel. What is going on here?

 

So, I just read the crankshaft position sensor's main purpose IS to tell the ecm when to send signal for the spark, you were correct. This explains the uncombusted fuel...I sure hope the engine is ok. I need the one that is located under the belts...Time to look for one i guess.

 

Now I'm throwing both...0802 and 0407. Also I'm throwing an undefined code, 1403?

 

Holy Fire batman....dont crank it anymore without the spark plug in there if its spraying gas.

Trust me...if it hits one thing that is being eletrically charged, viola engine fire...

My guess is this, you said you had a code before but it was a O2 code one that you never fixed. Problem is...the next code in line doesnt flash the light or add a new one so you probably have had the crankshaft code for a while.
Replace it, its very easy. Go ahead and clean the plugs up or replace them. Hopefully thats all it is.



Oh and when you are done, drive it back to the stealership look and ask for the same guy you dealt with. Tell him you got the car going.....at a fraction of the costs. Then ask to speak to the manager, give him the sheat that they gave you and ask for a full refund since their diagnosis was 100% off. $3300. LOL!

 

Ya LOL it was away from anything electrical, I'm not totally bonkers LOL...
What do you mean that the next code in line doesnt flash the light or add a new one?
And BOTH sensors are throwing codes now...you think something bigger is going on here?
I will test both sensors tomorrow.
Thanks

 

OK, don't crank the engine with or without the plug in there. Replace the injector on that cylinder right away. Then clear out the fuel one last time, put the plug back in, replace the REF crank sensor, start it up and hope it doesn't have some nasty rod knock. IIRC, I think a bad REF sensor will cause the car to go into back-up mode and fire the injectors in batch mode, irrelevant to your problem, just replace it.

If your engine is fine after that, change your oil out immediatly after a quick drive, then again at a 500 mile interval.

 

how about the POS sensor?

 

I just mean its possible that the Crank Position center code has been there a while since the light was already on for the O2.

Which cyl is shooting gas? One of the front three?

 

yes. the front waymost driverside one.

 

I hope that the dealership guys didn't go overboard when trying to start it. The said that after they turned off the car the engine was still running, and the only way to kill it was to put it into gear and let out the clutch. what a load of bs, right?

 

Well I would replace the the crank sensor. O2 sensors would not cause issues like that. You can drive the car with the o2 disconnect. I believe ecu have a "safe mode" so if it sees no O2 it will automatically run the system supper rich but it will not cause no spark in the system.

 

Ok so do like I said before unbolt the front fuel rail so that you can raise it up by hand, with the key on (do not crank it!) see if that cyl that shot gas has a leaky injector (as in gas is dripping by the unit.

Good Luck

 

urmab, i know, I'm not worried about the 02 at all, but thanks...
okay infinity I will do that injector inspection.
I did check the resistance on the ref sensor(the one that connects under the pulley) and it has correct resistance. However, the wires that give it power seem dead. I checked for continuity on the ground wire, as per chapter 6-12 on the Haynes manual says to do...and got nothing. I checked the POS sensor the one by the bellhousing, and it has battery voltage and continuity...so is my ecu blown? BTW, PCM is the same as ECU, correct?

 

okay, that fuel injector's small plastic crown thing was broken off, and it does leak. I was able to get most of the yellow plastic crown thing out of the hole, but I saw it already broken before I even removed the injector! Like it was laying around the rubber injector gasket, I passed it off for common crud that may have somehow been kicked up into my engine compartment, but once I removed the front rail and saw the other two had the same yellow crowns also but intact I knew what it was...
So my car is throwing faulty CPS codes, and the injector is bad...

 

Those plastic nubs are ok if they break on the injector. It could just be a bad o-ring, you could check by releasing fuel pressure from the system, and then pulling that injector out check the o ring's for tears etc. Also check the OHM reading on that injector. It possible its stuck open.

 

the resistance is good; it matched with the other two injectors' resistances =11.2 ohms.
I pulled it and it's out now.

 

raining out now so had to call it a day. I only have 1 day off also gotta make tomorrow count.

 

I found this on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...lenotsupported

and the ijector that I pulled is similar, but it also a little different looking. Should I be ok if I get this one for now and try it?

 

How did the o rings look? Where was the injector leaking from? If it ohms out ok, it would have to most likely be bad o rings.

 

hmmm...you know where the fuel rail has the rubber hoses connecting the two metal rails together? Well, when I compressed one of the hose, (the one closest to the throttle body), fuel would leak heavily out of the injector that I pulled, and the other two would not leak...

 

man if u r in nyc i will give you a couple of good working injectors for free for you to try out, i feel so bad that your cars not runnig even after all this. good luck

 

O man...gimme some!! lol thanks. I hella appreciate ur sympathy, maxfever!
The O rings are in good shape. The ohms are in spec. Could it be that it's somehow jammed or stuck open anyway, even with the proper resistance?

 

try changing out ur ecu with he same year as your car, maybe that might be it. i really dont know what to tell you

 

ok I got the uim off and the fuel rail off too. That plastic crowb w/nubs is gone, I only found a few little chips of it, but the majority of it is gone. I'm wobdering if it somehow fell into my engine.

 

one of the valve cover grommets is a little torn so time to replace that.
Also the valve cover gaskets are sweating pretty bad which is making lots of dirt stick so i think that those will be cleaned too.

 

here is a picture of two of my injectors:

the yellow plastic on the right injector isnt it used to retain the o ring?

 

no o ring means you should get another injector, the o ring is a very important part of the injector.

 

I have it it is lying on the bench...just dont have that yellow retainer crown thing. maxfever do ur injectors look the same if so i may ask to buy one from u.

 

Upon reinstalling my valve cover, I noticed that my gasket is in good shape, should I reuse it? Or is it absolutely necessary to get a new gasket?

 

If you went that far into the engine its usually good to replace AT LEAST the rear one as you can always do the front later if it leaks. If they're nice and rubbery feeling with flexibility I suppose you can reuse.

 

coo...

 

indubitably

 

Maximeltman, The resistance in the coil is not going to indicate the condition of a leaky injector. On the flip side, however, resistance would indicate why an injector might not squirt. You likely have a bit of crud in your injector or maybe varnish the broken "crown" is likely a coincidental.
FWIW I have personally seen a Toyota 20r hydro lock on all 4 cylinders with a faulty ECU. With only one leaking tho Id say your ECM is fine. Replace that injector for sure then go from there.

 

Ya that's what I intend to do...pay for a brand new injector....Thanks!

 

I started it after changing the injector and it starts up and sounds pretty rough. Then when i turned it off it stayed running so I killed it by putting it in 1st gear...any ideas what's wrong here?

 

I started it again just now, and it's much smoother now...idles high and revs okay...but it still stays on after I "kill" the switch...Is it dieseling?

 

I guess it's not dieseling, because it just stays running, whereas dieseling would mean it would stop after a little bit...
I also can kill it by stepping on the gas pedal, which is leaning it out I think=not good...
When it is running with the key in and I rev it up, lots of white smoke cam out of it=fuel?
It could be electrical related?
I cannot find a 99 mt ecu anywhere...All I have is a 96mt ecu.