Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

Did a test, and this is what I got:
(BTW engine was just below operating temp because we had to disassemble the coils an plugs and all)
210 210 210

205 210 195

Is this alright? Maybe a bit of carbon buildup but not bad?

And if I had a bent rod then it would probably be lower than 195? Because that's the cylinder that had hydro locked on me..

Fadrvr

iTrader: (3)

As long as all the cylinders are around the same, looks really good.

You only did three cylinders or am I missing something?

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

all six

210 210 210

205 210 195

Haynes states 185 or so psi though

Fadrvr

iTrader: (3)

Oh alright. Missed the top three. Looks like you have a healthy VQ. My teggy read 140psi across the board. Then again Honda's are low compression and my car has 280k.

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

how do u do a compression test?

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

See I hydro locked the one that reads 195psi, because I had a faulty fuel injector that was basically pouring gasoline into the cylinder(lost a small O-ring)...and whenever I tried to start it went "CLUNK" so I hope that nothing internally got damaged...I had it first towed to the dealership, and the douchebags at the dealership started it and those ******** may have ****ed it up big time; You'd think that they would know that it was hydro locked and to at least first relieve the cylinder of the fluid built up instaed of just ****ing persisting to start it until it goes .. Now when I have it running, it's either smooth or rough, So I did the compression test to maybe indicate damage inside.
Shadyonedeath:
1 remove all spark plugs after warming engine to normal operating temps and
2 relieve fuel pressure
3 connect the compression reader to where the plugs would go
4 crank engine to get each cylinder compression

Fadrvr

iTrader: (3)

Yea it involves buying a compression gauge. I think they run 20 bucks at AdvanceAuto.

http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/compression.htm

shadyonedeath

iTrader: (10)

thanks! good thread

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

There's more to it than that. You need to block the throttle WOT, and preferably have it on a battery charger. And not only relieve the fuel pressure, but you want to disable the pump (or injectors) as well.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

o yea forgot the WOT thing add that and pulling the pump fuse too

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

Soo...back to my original concern, these numbers seem a bit high or maybe it's because the engine was not right a OT?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Your results are fine. Did you try a wet compression test on cylinder 6?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

It doesn't need to be exactly at operating temp, it's not extremely important overall.

If you were concerned about these numbers, did you search for others?
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...00-maxima.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...plug-coil.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...2k-maxima.html
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...e-results.html

...etc.

Basically if you're concerned about the slightly high readings, run some engine cleaners, see what happens.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

no....I read about that AFTER I put everything back on If I had a bent rod, would I def know it?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Not necessarily. Depends on how severe it is.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

So how can I know besides a tear down?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

If it's not that bent, you couldn't.

I've seen some that weren't visibly bent until you held a straight edge to them, or laid them down next to a perfect rod.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

Can I drive with it if it is that slightly bent?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Yes, the ones I've seen were only torn down as core motors or rebuilding as a 'project', absolutely no complaints about driveability as far as I'm aware.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

Could I use a stethoscope to possibly hear anything funky in that cylinder, or am I just being paranoid?