Did a test, and this is what I got:
(BTW engine was just below operating temp because we had to disassemble the coils an plugs and all)
210 210 210

205 210 195

Is this alright? Maybe a bit of carbon buildup but not bad?

And if I had a bent rod then it would probably be lower than 195? Because that's the cylinder that had hydro locked on me..

 

As long as all the cylinders are around the same, looks really good.

You only did three cylinders or am I missing something?

 

all six

210 210 210

205 210 195

Haynes states 185 or so psi though

 

Oh alright. Missed the top three. Looks like you have a healthy VQ. My teggy read 140psi across the board. Then again Honda's are low compression and my car has 280k.

 

how do u do a compression test?

 

See I hydro locked the one that reads 195psi, because I had a faulty fuel injector that was basically pouring gasoline into the cylinder(lost a small O-ring)...and whenever I tried to start it went "CLUNK" so I hope that nothing internally got damaged...I had it first towed to the dealership, and the douchebags at the dealership started it and those ******** may have ****ed it up big time; You'd think that they would know that it was hydro locked and to at least first relieve the cylinder of the fluid built up instaed of just ****ing persisting to start it until it goes .. Now when I have it running, it's either smooth or rough, So I did the compression test to maybe indicate damage inside.
Shadyonedeath:
1 remove all spark plugs after warming engine to normal operating temps and
2 relieve fuel pressure
3 connect the compression reader to where the plugs would go
4 crank engine to get each cylinder compression

 

Yea it involves buying a compression gauge. I think they run 20 bucks at AdvanceAuto.

http://www.geocities.com/dsmgrrrl/FAQs/compression.htm

 

thanks! good thread

 

There's more to it than that. You need to block the throttle WOT, and preferably have it on a battery charger. And not only relieve the fuel pressure, but you want to disable the pump (or injectors) as well.

 

o yea forgot the WOT thing add that and pulling the pump fuse too

 

Soo...back to my original concern, these numbers seem a bit high or maybe it's because the engine was not right a OT?

 

Your results are fine. Did you try a wet compression test on cylinder 6?

 

It doesn't need to be exactly at operating temp, it's not extremely important overall.

If you were concerned about these numbers, did you search for others?
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...00-maxima.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...plug-coil.html
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...2k-maxima.html
http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...e-results.html

...etc.

Basically if you're concerned about the slightly high readings, run some engine cleaners, see what happens.

 

no....I read about that AFTER I put everything back on If I had a bent rod, would I def know it?

 

Not necessarily. Depends on how severe it is.

 

So how can I know besides a tear down?

 

If it's not that bent, you couldn't.

I've seen some that weren't visibly bent until you held a straight edge to them, or laid them down next to a perfect rod.

 

Can I drive with it if it is that slightly bent?

 

Yes, the ones I've seen were only torn down as core motors or rebuilding as a 'project', absolutely no complaints about driveability as far as I'm aware.

 

Could I use a stethoscope to possibly hear anything funky in that cylinder, or am I just being paranoid?