So i finally have my car up to factory par now.
new belts, sensors, hoses, t-stat, tires, plugs etc.

Looking to make a bit more power or at
least opening up the intake/exhaust breathing of the motor.

The headers don't seem that restrictive but the y pipe def is getting replaced with a cattman or warpspeed.But my question is..

I was doing some suspension work and noticed this. . . . . .



Everything behind the 2nd o2 sensor has been replaced within the last year.But whoever did it, Smashed down on the piping after the resonator.
Im sure this is going to cause me some unwanted back pressure but is it worth it to buy a cat back from cattman to replace this,....or is this not a big deal since im staying n/a and prolly wont exceed an additional 20-30 hp in my gains ?

i wouldn't be worried so much about that pipe as i would the body. one more winter and you can power that car flintstone style.

Nah..The maxima wont ever see snow.
I have a sentra for the winters season.
Most of it it just surface rust anyways..
None of it is real weak.


pmohr:

Sorry I meant exhaust manifold.
They dont look that restrictive.
and the 20-30 is just a guesstimate with a
y-pipe , k & n cai and a cattman underdriven pulley.
Thats what Ive gotten on similar cars i've modded.

Is there an aftermarket brace i can add
to the car that takes the place of that oem one im missing ?

Ohh..I see, Well if thats all it does then i'll just make one myself.
I have tons of extra 1/4" flat bar laying around.

I saw some under chassis brace in the newer threads..Didnt really look into it but thought it was mounted in the back of the chassis somewhere..Must be a front brace.

If you want to fix backpressure.

Headers + Cat-back is the solution. Stock exhaust manifolds are one of the most restrictive parts of a Maxima.

sorry for asking out of topic...

I bought header and y pipe weeks ago and they give me the 'given' gasket. From what I've read, that we need to use the OEM gasket. Do I need to replace the OEM exhaust manifold gasket with a new one (OEM gasket) or we just can use the old one?

So..Whats the most restrictive part then ?

I support this message. Say Slow_Yota, have you ever actually taken a look at the Stock Y? Its got some realy freaky bends before the Flex Pipe that were designed to restrict exhaust flow to keep the power band in the lower trq ranges.

the man is right.... stock exhaust manifolds are fine...


the stock y pipe is restrictive after like 3k rpms...

Ya i think the Y pipe is a def mod to come pretty soon.
maybe even a B if i can get one.
Thanks for the info everyone =]

How di I know if it isn't damaged?

lol, ehh ha. Hmm..You look at it.

I guess it is multi layer steel gasket... I don't think so it can be damaged except we broke them...

So I don't need to buy a new gasket right? (it would save me for $90)

If the three-layer steel gasket is installed currently, there's a chance it has warped over time and will not seal correctly upon reinstallation. Happened to me, I had a terrible exhaust leak no matter what I did to the gasket and I had to buy a new one.

hopefully my gasket still in good condition...

anyway, thanks for your answer

oh man... If I should bought a new gasket then I will rather buy a full set engine gasket since I have a plan to overhaul my engine next year...

to the OP, don't even waste your time making/fitting that exhaust brace. if you ever do upgrade your b-pipe, say to a 2.5'', the brace won't even fit. the ypipe is so restrictive due to the 2 large precats on the ypipe.

IMO, go aftermarket y-pipe, HFC, 00vi/mevi (00vi preferably), 2.5'' b-pipe.

whats oovi ?

Yea I've looked over almost all of the how to's and stickys..
Some i didn't i'll admit but only the ones that didn't concern me
And I've never heard of this "OOVI".

@ pmohr

oovi, mevie, movie..- pa toobee..Whatever.
Seems like a lot of work for minimal gains.
Thanks but i think i'll just do the exhaust and a K & N CAI.

Im going with the y pipe mainly because my flex is leaking and makes the car sound like crap..the extra hp is just a nice bonus.

the CAI prolly wont net much hp but gives it a nice added tone to it.

And there is no way a variable intake will give an
n/a motor with minor bolts on 50 hp.
on a boosted motor..Sure.

but come on..190 from the stock motor.
25 from clearing out the exhaust and CAI.
So we're at 215, Show me a dyno sheet that proves a
00vi install will get me 265 hp at the fly and
i'll get one off of ebay tonight.

I'm done here, it's obvious that with some people, there's absolutely no point in trying to educate them; they find new and interesting ways to fail, every single time.

The usim peaks at 170 hp, The 00vi peaks at 190..and like you said the extra 20 that you would get isnt even streetable, and i do get the "ricer math" But you said the 00vi would net 50 hp..Not that the intake mani, exhaust and cai would net 50..I agree with that..Im sure thats do-able, Not saying that it wouldt make more power than the usim..I was under the impression that you were trying convince me that a the 00vi would net me 50 hp a side from the exhaust and cai gains.

You seem upset..Cool down, It'll be ok.
I understand ..Really.
I guess I just dont care that much to change it.
And yes i can see that the power curve doesn't dip nearly as soon as the usim does.
But this is my DD, I dont redline the motor or go above speed limit [most of the time]
Im saying that I prolly wouldt use the improved power curve you get when you install a 00vi..and if i want to race or get thrown in the back of my seat, I'll just break out my 300.So thanks for the info, But ..I think 00vi is a no go for me.
=]

If you granny shift, it won't help you. The 00VI starts to make significantly more power above 5000 rpm. If you get a 7500 rpm rev limiter, then the 00VI gives you great top end power. You can keep the motor in its best powerband for longer, and the car will be significantly quicker.

I don't see how power added above 5000 rpm isn't "streetable". It's pretty simple. Instead of upshifting at 5000 rpm, upshift at 7000 rpm. If you have an 00VI and an extended rev limiter, your car will be much faster, without sacrificing any driveability.

If, as you say, you don't redline the motor, then may I ask why you are bothering wasting money on performance upgrades? It's a well-documented fact that most gasoline motors make more power at higher RPMs. If you're driving along and saying "Hey, cruising at 3000 rpm is great, but I wish I had more horsepower". There's an easy solution. Downshift, and rev it higher. You will instantly have significantly more horsepower, for free.

If you're not using the power you have now, then why do you need more?

Then how can we extended rev limiter? I have put an piggyback computer (Dastek Unichip) on my car. It still had a redline on 6700rpm. Is still getting more power at the 7500rpm? Do we need to do engine component balance before we extended rev limiter?


FYI : my car is an auto and have a MEVI.

oh my.. 20 to 30? ehh, try like 5-10 and thats how mine looks the same as yours but the input output press is a science so you can free it up all you want but no back pressure means there wouldnt be enough intake, so your better off upgrading to a catback after you get a y-pipe

Most of the people I've seen have JWT ECUs with extended rev limiters, but I'd imagine there are other ways.

Well first off i have an auto so =/
Anywhoos..
Like i had said i have a flex thats leaking and faling a part at the seems..So i need to replace that.Might as well upgrade to a free flowing y pipe.

I dont beat on my dd's, thats what the track car is for...
But it is nice to have the option to have the extra power if i do need it at some point.Like if someone were to pull out in front of me or i need to get out of traffic or whatever...Its just nice to have a bit more than the average joe i guess.

But mostly, Im replacing things that need replaced and upgrading them at the same time..My intake mani isnt damged and i just cant justify spending $300/time/labor on something that i'll barely use.

hope so my local dealer can extend rev limiter without change my ecu

on something that you'll barely use?
what are you talking about? you use your IM every time you crank up your car.

plus, its been dyno proven that the 00vi is far superior than the stock USIM.
the usim just loses breath in the upper rpms whereas the 00vi doesn't hence the variable induction system with the rotary valve. same goes for the mevi but just under the 00vi. the 00vi is also comprised of plastic so better heat dissipation and no need for a plenum spacer.

Don't forget that the 00vi increases torque in the lower RPM range over the standard usim (what does usim stand for anyway? i thought the maxima was a japanese car)

lol..of course i would "use" the manifold but i would't take all that much advantage of it.I hardly ever take my car over the 4500-5000 rpms.

I like this car a lot and i've broke enough of them to know what to do and what not to do to keep it around.

And i read in one of the threads that pmohr listed that one of the guys had heat soak probs with the 00vi and that his butterflies wouldt work correctly.
That scares me off as well.

you can try mevi, based on logical I think should be more durable compared to 00VI because it more simple...

and another advantage, from what I've seen plastic manifold not as durable as aluminium intake when you put FI on your engine. I ever seen a car with a broken plastic manifold when he put high boost...

CMIIW

alright well thats fine. i thought you mentioned you wanted more power and just thought i throw the 00vi out there.

also, your scared about the 00vi due to 1 report? it'll have better heat dissipation than the usim and the guy prob didn't even pre-fix his VIAS (jb weld) prior to installation.