Just about to replace the plugs for my 95 GLE, and noticed that the plugs on the vehicle are the cold type (NGK FGR6G-11), however the set I got is the standard type (NGK FGR5G-11). I am wondering how much difference it would make. I have the old set (cold type) in the car for about 7 years (60K miles), and am quite happy with it. Shall I exchange the new set (standard type) to the cold type? Oh, I am in NJ (not sure that matters).

Thanks in advance for any advise.

 

Oh I remember reading about this, I think that you are recommended to use colder plugs if you are using a turbo or supercharger and you should use hotter plugs if you live in cold climates

But I don't have my facts straight, but I do remember there being something about turbos and colder plugs or something like that

 

It doesn't really matter.

From the FSM:

 

Thanks guys. It is my daily drive (other than those days I rode my bike). I mostly drive about 2 miles each way. Based on the FSM, it seems hotter plugs are more suitable for my situation. I am putting the new standard type on as it can't be worse than the cold type that are in there now.

 

Just to report back that I put the new standard type set plugs in this afternoon. It is really a quite simple job and took about 20 minutes. Many thanks to pmohr's video, it would not be as easy without it.

 

Haha if I remember (Which I swear on my car I do remember something) that having hotter spark plugs in the wrong climate will cause premature detonation or knocking and that the best option is to have standard plugs so that you won't go too hot, or be too cold.

But anyways, Pmohr, I saw your video on replacing both the front and rear brake rotors and pads and I must say, it seems a lot harder than it really it haha. I thought you needed tons of tools and needed to take apart a ton of different parts to change the rotors and pads but you just popped every off and just slapped them back in. I think I am now confident enough to try and replace those suckers myself next time haha. And maybe you could do another video showing how to re-**** the brake spring thingys when you replace your rotors and such with new ones.

 

You mean lubing up the shims?

I should. Just the other day I got a 'new' torque member from the yard (all of $6), put everything back together with anti-seize this time. Amazing how easy it was on the TN cars, but my car has seen a few too many MD winters.

Oddly though, besides the rear brakes nothing else on my car is rusty.

 

Haha congrats I tried finding some parts from my local junkyard and it was like I was speaking Spanish in Nigeria they had no clue what I was talking about I had to explain what a Maxima was... Oh and what I meant was how when you put on the caliper you said that you didn't need to push in the thingy because the size of the rotors didn't change and so I was wondering if you could show us how to properly push in that spring (Sorry for some reason I can't remember the name of that damn thing I'll go watch your video and be right back)

But in your video you said not to hammer away at the bolt if it is not budging, and I was wondering, if you were doing the brakes or something and needed to get a bolt off, what would you do? I mean, like is there some sort of short-cut you could take to removing a rusted on bolt, like spray WD-40 on it, or spraying on any liquid that you can find in your home without going to the Autostore for that liquid wrench stuff?

 

This is a pullapart yard, so no having to deal with people beyond giving them $1 to go in, and paying them on the way out.

Honestly that bolt in that position, there's not much you can do. Put it back together and get some penetrating spray.

I'd let it soak for as long as possible in PB Blaster, Kroil, etc. Spray it every day for a while.

Then you'd want to work it loose just a little, then tighten back up, back and forth like that for a while, to see if it'll eventually come out. Could also try some heat, but MAPP or propane in that area would be a PITA and isn't likely to be hot enough to free it up.

If all else fails, pick up a torque member and bolts before you go to town on them. You can get the torque member for ~$30 or so from auto parts stores.

Ah, you mean the caliper piston? Yea, I'm going to do a whole new rear brakes vid.

 

YES! Pistons! I just watched it and you said it like 5 fives but I didn't remember what it was until you pointed at the pads while talking about the shims haha

And okay, I'll make sure when I do the brakes in the future to buy some PC blaster before hand and to be rough in a gentle way with the bolts haha

 

If you keep popping things in and out, they will shine forever.

Seriously, thanks again for making effort for those videos!!!

 

I have only used standard NGK replacements -- other replies indicate same advice

(Post #8 to allow me to start a thread)