95 Max: Failure to Launch (Hard Starts)...FIXED!

My '95 Max usually cranked and fired right up, but seemed to start at a reduced RPM (under 1000) and then struggled, or failed, to stay running. Over about 6 months, I searched for solutions and tried lots of fixes. To make a long story short, it was the ignition switch. Since it always cranked and fired up, I did not suspect the ignition switch until it got worse to where I had to turn and push hard occasionally to get the engine to crank.

I swapped the new and old switches in and out a couple of times to make sure. The old switch started and sputtered...the new switch went "VAROOOM !". Here is an excellent How-to for replacing the ignition switch:

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...lots-pics.html

I think I figured out how the ignition switch was getting the car started, but poorly. I ohm'ed out the old switch, and pin 1 (white pink, battery voltage) makes with pin 6 (green black) as soon as you come off of "RUN" and rotate toward "START". I believe it should hold the connection all the way to "START" and back to "RUN", but disconnect at "Run". In other words, pin 1 and 6 should be connected the whole time you are turning the key against the spring loaded part of the rotation to "START" and back. My old switch had a small dead spot right in the middle of that travel. I traced pin 6 as far as I could through the wiring diagram, and it feeds 12 volts to the ECU pin 28 as "S/Sig" (Start Signal ?) and also goes on as a "Theft, Start" signal to somewhere else (Theft Warning relay ?). I suspect that the ECU was losing the "Start Signal" (and maybe a Start Enable Relay was losing coil power) momentarily, as I rotated the ignition switch through the dead spot. That would explain the uncertain starts.

Side Note: Pins 5 (black/yel) and 6 (black/green) are not tied directly together as the service manual shows.

I already had the car put back together by the time I played around with the old switch, so I did not compare with the new switch, but I'm pretty sure that dead spot should not be there. I hope this helps some others trouble shoot their starting problems.

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I have listed all the other things I did which did not help the problem in my case. Others have reported that these things fixed their starting issues, so it might be a useful list for others. Here it is...

-Removed, cleaned, and checked Camshaft Position Sensor-Ref. (2.3K ohms) and Crankshaft Position Sensor (530 ohms). Removed and cleaned the other Crankshaft Position Sensor near main engine ground.
-Checked ECTS (Coolant Temp sensor) on a 40 degree day. 3.3K is good.
-Found and repaired a very loose ground connection between the neg battery cable and the engine block.
-New Fuel Filter
-New Air Filter
-Monitored fuel pressure for two weeks during good and bad starts. Always 36 psi.
-Monitored battery voltage during 5 second cranks (Disabled fuel pump to prevent starting. Battery was at 12.3 volts before cranking ). During cranking...11v at battery, 11v at starter connection, 10.5 v at output of solenoid.
-Cleaned Mass Air flow Sensor with correct spray. Measured about 2K ohms at 70 degrees (OK).
-Cleaned Air Temp Sensor. It measured about 12K and 5K ohms from the middle pin to the outer pins, and about 17K across the outside pins. The manual does not give specs for this.
-Removed, disassembled, and cleaned some sludge form the IACV (Air Control Valve). The four motor windings measured 30 ohms each (good). Plugged in the IACV with the casing opened up to reveal the plunger. It moved as the key was turned on and off. Also energized the two solenoids and heard them click. (New IACV gasket).
-Removed and cleaned sludge from Throttle Body with correct cleaner. (New gasket).
-With IACV and Throttle Body removed, saw a large carbon formation at the connection of the EGR Guide Tube and the Air Intake Pipe. Removed the formation, but the EGR opening and EGR Guide Tube were still completely plugged. Got the tube loose and twisted it around to open the passages. (Never got the EGR Guide Tube completely off because of the larger pipe in the way. Major pain of a job!). New tube gasket on top but could not replace the bottom one.
-Checked function of fast idle cam and adjusted it up a little.
-Checked Throttle Position Sensor...perfect. (0.5 ohms to 4.2 ohms,,,I think)
-Removed and cleaned a half dozen smaller ground connections.
-Checked the "Basic Idle Adjustment" on the IACV...perfect.
-Checked Coolant temperature Sensor. My OBD-II scan tool showed a 100 degree reading during a cold start on a 70 degree morning. Removed the sensor. It should read 2K to 3K ohms at 68 degrees. Didn't have a thermometer for 68 degrees, but it measured about 1.8 ohms at room temperature (70 degrees?). Bought a new one from Autozone and it measured about the same. Installed it anyway. The scan tool still shows about 100 degrees at a cold start. hmmm. Substituted a 3K ohm resistor on a 70 degree morning. Still had a failed 1st start.
-Added grounds (double 10 gauge wire) from Battery neg terminal to both the starter, and to the transmission bell housing.
-Removed and cleaned the neg battery cable. (There is a connection point to the body in the middle of the cable, almost under the battery tray). Cleaned the positive cable too.
-Removed, disassembled, cleaned and lubed starter. It's a "World Class" brand remanufactured one of unknown age. Looked pretty good inside.
-Visited a Junk Yard. Purchased the Crankshaft Position Sensors (POS and REF) and the Camshaft Position Sensor. I was starting to notice an occasional slight hesitation before cranking would start, so I grabbed an Ignition Switch, Ignition Relay, Theft Warning Relay, and Inhibitor Relay. I gotta plug "Pick-a-Part" junk yard here. They charged $2.00 to get in, then $10.00 for the whole pile of parts. Posted prices are about $5.00 for each sensor and relay. I got a deal.

Installed the used Crankshaft Position Sensors and the Camshaft Position Sensor but they didn't make much difference. One crankshaft position sensor is located near the oil filter. The camshaft position sensor is about a foot above that. The other crankshaft position sensor is toward the front of the car near the transmission bell housing and main engine ground. All take a 10mm socket and a good tug on the connector (easy replacement).

The car still seemed to start at a lower RPM and struggled of failed to stay running. The ignition switch was the big fix.

 

Man thats a long list of things you did. I might just try replacing my ignition switch before i do anything else to solve my hard start problem it gets annoying at times and im about to install a remote start so i guess thats first on my list.

 

Wow thats a long list, congrats and finally getting her going again!

 

Great write up! I enjoyed the read. I am glad you found your solution

 

That is a great write up. I tested it myself and it solved 90% of my 99 Maxima starting problems. I also changed the upper intake manifold gasket & returned the stock air intake filter element and solved the engine stuttering issue. However, there is still that little annoying problem, the car seems to die out of a sudden especially when decelerating or when stopping. The MAF sounds OK, I disconnected it and it didn't affect much.

I did some research and found this Technical Service Bulletin from Nissan.

Nissan Technical Bulletin NTB98-008b Maxima EGI Harness Wiring Breakage

Did anyone experience the same thing? I'm sure many have..

 

I had those exact same symptoms in July. Went to dealer, got Throttle Body and IACV gaskets and cleaned both of those out with carb/throttle body cleaner and BAM instant fix.

 

I discovered it the hard way as well. While my car was outside warming up, I happened to notice smoke pouring out from under my hood. Shut off the car and instantly smelled electrical burn. Bye bye starter. I put in a new one, and on the second or third start-up, it stopped cranking over, but the starter would not shut down and was beginning to cook, the ignition would not respond even after removing my key! I was able to hit it with a pipe to stop it and that's when I found the shotty ignition issue.

Great post. Am doing a major maintenance tune-up at the moment and will for sure be using this as check-list to try and help me pin down this rough idle/rich emissions I've been having. If anyone else has good preventative maintenance checks, feel free to chime in.

 

fail, had you looked in the search you would've known that that is a key symptom of hard starts. especially with what you were describing that would've been the first thing i would've checked. i guess i knew right off because of all the other op in here and my own expierience.

 

^^Wow. Toot your own horn much? Dude takes the time to describe an issue he went through and the steps how he did it so that others not only can skip the unnecessary steps but also what values to check them at. I know it was a nice find for me. His thread served a purpose, yours did nothing but float your own ego. Thanks for the write up Justock.

Oh and what's the deal with the self-righteous tool billboard there Jersey Shore? Just say NO to the fist pump!


Doesn't feel good getting **** talked to for no reason does it?

 

i just wonder if he used the search function, would have found the problem faster?? hmmmmmm, noob go home

 

I don't know why people ***** so much about others using the search funtion. Especially on a useful thread like this. I'm having issues now with my car and this is the best thread I've come across so far. Because, I've had nothing but speculation on about 10 different parts that could cause this, and I'm not getting a code. Most of them are listed in what he had already tried. So I'm hoping my issue is solved by the Ignition Switch being replaced. The more posts, the more results. Better your chances of finding what you need. As there are many similar yes, but often still unique problems that people have. I've been searching for days. So don't complain and bring someone down, this board is here to help people, and enjoy. Don't reply and say "fail."