jobell

I've been reading about all the different starting problems in this forum and found one that resembles mine. I replaced the ignition switch since the car wouldn't do anything when I first turned the key. Second attempt started the car. That seemed to go away for a short while and just recently, when the key is turned, I would here a clunk from the engine compartment as if the starter gear engaged and stopped. Again, when the key is turned a second time, the car starts fine. So I decided to replace the starter. Wrong!!! That didn't fix the problem as I thought it would. Now I'm reading that it's probably caused by the ignition switch not making a tight fit to where it meets the back of the tumbler where the key is inserted. Some people have used tape to make a tighter fit, but I haven't read that anyone has replaced the tumbler(or whatever it's called)? Anybody know what's involved in replacing that??

Joe

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

You mean replacing the lock cylinder itself?

It's not that hard to do, but unless you get one re-keyed, you'll either have to get all new locks or live with one ignition key and one door key (like GM's POS design).

So you've eliminated everything else as a possibility for your starting problem? If you remove the ignition switch and turn it with a screwdriver, it starts up perfectly fine, first try, every time?

jobell

Lock cylinder!!! That's what it's called!! I never thought about the keys!!! Can a locksmith rekey a new lock cylinder to match the old key? So far I replaced the ignition switch and the starter. I haven't tried turning the new ignition switch with a screwdriver. That's my next step once this heat and humidity goes away. Thanks for the info.

Joe

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

It's possible, you'd have to check around locally to see if anyone can do it in your area.

DBear

If you're getting a noise from the engine compartment when you turn the key, it sounds like the ignition switch is working. When the switch goes bad, or stops making contact, you get nothing at all (except the instrument cluster lighting up). I suppose it's possible that the switch is making contact for an instant and then losing it. If that's the case, then the screwdriver method should work every time.

jobell

I forgot to ask, is the "male" piece on the back of the tumbler made of plastic? If so, that might explain why I'm having a starting problem when the car sits in the sun for a long time. Maybe the plastic gets soft and isn't stiff enough to turn the ignition switch.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

No, it's metal.

jobell

So if it's metal and the ignition switch is new, where's the problem? I've read that people have inserted tape into the ignition switch slots to tighten up the fit, but if the switch is new, there shouldn't be a problem.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Have you cleaned all your grounds?

jobell

Which grounds in particular and where are they located?

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

The two on top of the LIM are a good start, they're pretty much the only grounds in the entire engine control harness.



Also, the entire length of the ground cable from the battery.