Alright guys, got a problem that has been pissing me off for 6 months and I could really use some help getting this fixed. When my car does this it is an embarrassment to all 4th gens and myself.

About 6 months ago I had both C/V's replaced on my 99 auto as both had the typical bad C/V popping when turning the wheel. After replacement the drivers side started popping and jerking under hard acceleration. It didnt do it all the time, just seemed to do it at the worst possible times so the mechanic never heard it. The popping and jerking is severe, very loud and very hard jerks. Always when accelerating either around a corner or in a strait line.. speed doesnt seem to make a difference as it will do it just the same at 20mph as it will at 90. I drove it like this for 6 months because I couldnt afford another repair.. and it never went away or got any worse.

After making a post here on the org everyone seemed to think it needed another new C/V so I went to have the drivers side C/V replaced. The mechanic said the inner seal was blown out and had slung all its grease so I was sure that was the problem. Well I just got the car back yesterday with a new C/V installed and everything seemed just fine until today. Took it to the store and indeed the popping/jerking is back just as bad as ever. I went into the other lane to pass someone and again was completely embarrassed when it popped and jerked like a old piece of crap

Could it be that I got two C/V's with the exact same problem or could it be something else? I know the mechanic put in a new one because I saw the new one. I already went under the car and cleaned out all the old grease that slung out so if the new one goes I will be able to see the new grease. I also thought that maybe this could be due to using the wrong C/V.. maybe a LSD or ABS C/V on a car that doesnt have those features

I have tried to get this on video so you can hear/see whats going on but it doesnt do it all the time and I cant ever get it to do it with the video camera or a mechanic in the car. Might try again later if you think it will help figure out what the problem is. Thanks so much for your help!

 

Does this only happen when the car is hot? i had the same problem and it was because my knock sensor died.

 

You sure it's not a misfire? Popping sounds along with the car jerking under load ( for example when you're trying to pass someone) could be symptoms of a bad coil/coils or a bad plug/plugs. Fine a big hill, get the car in highest possible gear and start driving up the hill and see if you can duplicate the symptoms. Try and not have it downshift while doing this if you're an auto.

 

do you have any codes?

 

Dont think that is the problem.. the popping/jerking is coming from the drivers side wheel. Not saying thats not the problem but I wouldnt think a misfire would make the wheel area pop. Its loud and I can tell.. that is exactly where it is coming from. Also the jerking seems to be coming from that side as well. Its got brand new plugs in it.. but the coils are pretty old.

 

I just went out and ran it for codes and got 5 long pulses followed by 5 short pulses which comes up online as no failure recorded/detected. I would run it for A/T codes but it is currently up on jacks with one wheel off, I can check for A/T codes tomorrow.

 

A pop or backfire is heard from the intake which is on the drivers side of the vehicle. A CV doesn't jerk at 90 MPH on the highway, a backfire (pop) does.
A bad CV clicks when the steering wheel is turned, they don't jerk the car.

As someone else has mentioned, I think you have a misfire or backfiring issue.

 

Interesting, I did not think about that. I have a short ram intake which would make sense because its right above the drivers side tire. Wouldnt this throw some codes? Would the coils be the most likely suspect, what else should I look at? You have no idea how happy I would be to finally have this problem solved!

 

hmm...expected something else after reading the title-GL

 

Would a backfire through the intake cause the intake to become dirty? I just took it off and gave it a look and its spotless inside the intake midpipe. I would think a backfire would leave some residue in there. I just replaced my PCV valve but I passed on buying new coils/ks because it isnt throwing codes. I would replace those other two items if they might be the cause even if not throwing codes. Any more suggestions?

 

See if you can reproduce the noise while a mechanic is with you.
Check for any air leaks in your intake setup, especially after the MAF sensor.
Take the cone intake off, put the stock system back on and see if the noise goes away.

 

Tried to get it to do it with the mechanic in the car, but of course it wouldnt do it. Sometimes it will go several weeks without any problems then all of a sudden I will get on the gas hard and it will do it and I can reproduce it a few times by getting back on the gas and then it goes away again. Hard to trouble shoot because if I do something I dont really know if it fixed the problem until I drive it for a few weeks. I just replaced the PCV valve and it idles a whole lot better and so far so good.. no popping/jerking yet. Of course that doesnt mean it wont come back, at which time I guess I will replace the coils. Thinking about buying coils off of ebay. They are $200 vs $600 at autozone.

No leaks in the intake.. got that sucker sealed up good.

 

There's a guy selling genuine Nissan coils on ebay for 300 shipped. Bought some of those and my car is running like new again. I had a code. Try and get your codes checked out at Autozone. If you have a coil code, just replace them all. Sounds like your coils are misfiring under load when hot.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...%3D4%26ps%3D33

 

Mines not throwing any codes but after spending hours reading posts I guess that sometimes bad coils wont throw codes. I noticed that the seller is accepting offers on those coils which usually means they are willing to accept less than the asking price. I'm going to make a offer for $250 and see if he will accept it

 

Thanks so much for posting that link! He accepted an offer for $251 so I got genuine OEM nissan coils for $260 shipped What a steal!

 

Damn, Thats's cheaper that I got!! But it's all good, my max is luving the new coils. Get you some new NGK v plugs to throw in there with your savings!!

 

When you see "make an offer" on an ebay item that usually means the seller will take less money. First I offered him $200, then $226 and he finally accepted $251.

I just put in some regular NGK plugs last month. I was broke and couldnt afford the good ones. Guess that while I am at it I will drop in some better plugs and save myself added work down the road. Hopefully putting in some new parts and doing some cleaning will take care of my issues. I'll be seafoaming and cleaning the TB on tuesday.

 

Nothing wrong with the NGK regulars! Thats what I'm running. I replace them every 25k miles.

 

The dealers are always spouting off about the platnium plugs, glad to hear the regulars are OK so long as you replace them often.

 

Did your new coil packs fix your problem??

 

Something sure did.. either the coils or the PCV. I replaced them both at the same time so I am not sure which one might have been the cause. The PCV looked as if it had never been replaced and it was dirty as dirty gets.

Still cant believe it was a misfire.. what a nasty noise from my intake!

I gave it hell 2 nights ago and there where no problems other than the stock brakes smoking like a camp fire when I parked it.

New coils FTW!

 

Very easy! But if you are asking this question I would invest in a Hanyes
manual first. Much easier when you have read thru the procedure.
Quite sure there is a write somewhere on the forum