i have a 95 5 speed and the car is running pretty rough at low rpm's under any sort of a load. my CEL is not on and i just broke the tape and turned the screw on the ECU to check for codes and i did not even see a CEL. im guessing the light might have been unplugged by the last owner when he put in the elglow gauge faces and the alum over lay? i have not made it to auto zone to have it scanned yet but that is my next stop. i have a feeling it might be my TPS going because it runs differently at different throttle positions. i might also have a coil or 2 going bad even though they are all with in spec and the spark plugs are new. any other ideas?

 

Does the CEL light up when you turn the car to the ON position w/o starting it?

But some people here are going to say get those possible codes pulled before any further diagnosis's are continued

[off topic]
DUDE! You gotta L67 in a H body, jealous, I've always wanted one...

 

had the car scanned and came up with a knock sensor code. so i guess that explains the loss to the integra, accord waggon, and the eclips last weekend the car was running base timming.

[off topic convo] ya the h-body is my girls car i have a buddy that has a GTP with a 2.76 pulley and supporting mods except for a built trans. it would be a low 12 sec car with a built trans and slicks. fully built tranns ~$3500 not installed.

 

WOW holey mother of overpriced plactic bat man!!!! $102+ for a knock sensor?? you gotta be kidding me right? is their anywhere cheaper that i can get this? i just called advance auto, autozone, and napa the lowest price i found was $102 and that was on www.rockauto.com lowest in town was like $115. is their any chance the car would run any better with it unpluged? (just for now till i can scrape together $100 to fix it)

 

it will be just the same unplugged. Check ebay i think they are pretty cheep or try dave b for oem

 

You can get an OEM replacement part on eBay for ~$50 shipped, or an aftermarket for ~$25.

Unplugged likely won't make a difference.

Why not just put the resistor in for now to see if it makes a difference?

Before you ask how/where/why, search. Alternatively, read the stickies.

 

+1 on the resistor - I did it 1 1/2 years ago and no probs. Just don't use Reg gas, only 91+ .. If you know someone into electronics, cost is negligible; I had to buy package at Radio Shack for 3.99 and now have 4 spares and an assortment of others. HA

 

i have ehard or the resistor on the auto cars to increase line pressure for hard shifts but not for 5 speed cars. i have put them in the IAT sensors before to fool the ECU to thinking the air was 53* to add timming and put in more fuel but have never heard of doing it to a KS. i will deff be searching this thanks yal just saved me alot of money either way cuz i never thought to check the bay for stuff liek that!!!!!!

 

sweet after a breef search i found a 470k ohm resistor will do the trick for now. this will not stay in for long but at least it should get my power back untill i can scrape enough money together for a new KS.

 

Hotness, the 3800 is one of my fave engines, always wanted to drive a blown one after having a Camaro, LeSabre, Monte Carlo and riding in my moms Riviera (too young to drive the Rivi, I wish tho, it had the L67).

I might be doing this soon, I have random accel problems too...

 

I just replaced my cheapo ebay $25. knock sensor because it only lasted 18 months. I replaced it with a $45. ebay sensor, only this one comes with a lifetime guarantee.

 

so i went to put the resistor in today ad i got the plug off the knock sensor and their was only 1 wire going to it. i think i read somewhere that it grounds it self to the block but why is their 2 wires going into the harness? i unpluged the knock sensor harness up close to the throttle body and their is 2 wires there so it dont make any since for them not to go all the way?

since the resistor the car runs beter in higher gears under high load but dose not seem to have any more power than before?