CV Boots
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From: 60139
CV Boots
Yeah I've searched and it's been discussed many times. But, the more I read the more I'm confused. The motorvate link isn't working so I'm hoping to get some help.
Both my boots tore so it's up in the air and will get started in the next day or so (effin seized caliper cylinder). I'm hoping to get detailed instructions as well as tools needed (I think only a bander?).
Oh and has anyone done the wheel bearing since you are there? Any instructions? Difficult and/or special tools?
TIA!
Both my boots tore so it's up in the air and will get started in the next day or so (effin seized caliper cylinder). I'm hoping to get detailed instructions as well as tools needed (I think only a bander?).
Oh and has anyone done the wheel bearing since you are there? Any instructions? Difficult and/or special tools?
TIA!
boots or shafts
First off, are your CV joints knocking around corners? If not, you can replace the boots without any special tools and the parts from NAPA #CVB
6862129 are cheap, about $8.00 per side. They include boot, bands, grease, and retainer ring(s). The bands are easy to install with a pair of wire cutters.
You'll need to remove the three bolts from the passenger side carrier bearing. If you don't have ratcheting box-end wrenches, now's the thime to start. I believe they are 12mm hex, but my gear wrench made real short work of them.You'll also need a 36mm socket for the axle nut.
Axle
1. Loosen the Axle nut with an air gun or breaker bar with cheater pipe. If using cheater pipe method, 5 feet will keep you from pushing/pulling too hard and hurting your self.
2. Jack car up and place on jack stands.
3. Remove axle nut, separate the strut from the knuckle and pull the knuckle/hub away from the car.
4. Slip the CV joint out of the hub.
5. For the pass. side remove the 3 bolts and simply slide the axle assembly out.
6. Drivers side you need a real prybar. place the prybar between the CV joint and trans case and pop the shaft out.
CV Joint
1. Cut bands with wire cutters.Cut the old boot off with utility knife.
2. With 2 pound shop hammer and large punch knuck CV joint off of shaft, this is easier with shaft in a vise, but not necessary.
3. Clean ALL old grease out of CV joint with solvent of choice ie; brake/carb cleaner or mineral spirits. Gasoline should never be used, however, I did and I'm still alive
4. Wrap the splines of the shaft with electrical of duct tape, apply light grease and slip the new boots over.
5. Inject most of the included grease straight through the splined hole in the middle of the CV joint, pack the face of the joint with most of the remainder, and squirt the rest into the boot.
6. Install the new retainer ring onto the the end of the shaft.
7. Insert the tip of the shaft into the CV joint and drive home with a hammer and block of wood on the threaded shaft. Also you can hold the shaft vertically with the outer joint down and slam into the workbench top.
8. Install bands, you can crimp them carefully using wire cutters.
Top off your Gear oil as some will spill out.
6862129 are cheap, about $8.00 per side. They include boot, bands, grease, and retainer ring(s). The bands are easy to install with a pair of wire cutters.
You'll need to remove the three bolts from the passenger side carrier bearing. If you don't have ratcheting box-end wrenches, now's the thime to start. I believe they are 12mm hex, but my gear wrench made real short work of them.You'll also need a 36mm socket for the axle nut.
Axle
1. Loosen the Axle nut with an air gun or breaker bar with cheater pipe. If using cheater pipe method, 5 feet will keep you from pushing/pulling too hard and hurting your self.
2. Jack car up and place on jack stands.
3. Remove axle nut, separate the strut from the knuckle and pull the knuckle/hub away from the car.
4. Slip the CV joint out of the hub.
5. For the pass. side remove the 3 bolts and simply slide the axle assembly out.
6. Drivers side you need a real prybar. place the prybar between the CV joint and trans case and pop the shaft out.
CV Joint
1. Cut bands with wire cutters.Cut the old boot off with utility knife.
2. With 2 pound shop hammer and large punch knuck CV joint off of shaft, this is easier with shaft in a vise, but not necessary.
3. Clean ALL old grease out of CV joint with solvent of choice ie; brake/carb cleaner or mineral spirits. Gasoline should never be used, however, I did and I'm still alive
4. Wrap the splines of the shaft with electrical of duct tape, apply light grease and slip the new boots over.
5. Inject most of the included grease straight through the splined hole in the middle of the CV joint, pack the face of the joint with most of the remainder, and squirt the rest into the boot.
6. Install the new retainer ring onto the the end of the shaft.
7. Insert the tip of the shaft into the CV joint and drive home with a hammer and block of wood on the threaded shaft. Also you can hold the shaft vertically with the outer joint down and slam into the workbench top.
8. Install bands, you can crimp them carefully using wire cutters.
Top off your Gear oil as some will spill out.
Last edited by asand1; Sep 13, 2009 at 09:56 PM.
On a side note, when will motorvate.ca be working again? I think they changed servers or something, and now none of the links work.
Don't just change the boots, change the axles. Just because it's not currently making noise doesn't mean damage isn't already done. This is assuming of course you don't know when the boots failed.
Why would you replace wheel bearings 'while you're in there'? It's not a simple unit bearing, only a few bolts to replace; the bearing must be pressed in and out of the knuckle.
Why would you replace wheel bearings 'while you're in there'? It's not a simple unit bearing, only a few bolts to replace; the bearing must be pressed in and out of the knuckle.
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