fastisnothing

1999 SE 5 speed cali spec

Hi guys, been a long time and car is still down. Going to Nissan soon if no one can help.

The issue:

Vehicle cranks. No start. Security light on. Pop starts. Runs like a top.

What Happened:

I go to my car, go to crank it, notice it took 1 extra second to start. Hmm. Funny. Next day, 2 seconds, next day, 4 second, next day, 10 seconds, next day, 20 seconds, next day, a minute, next day, TOO LONG. Wound up burning out that starter, replaced it multiple times, while trying to diagnose.

What I replaced/Checked:

Crank Sensor (pos +ref)
Fuel Pump
ALL RELAYS
Knock sensor
wiring harness
cam sensor
plugs and coil packs
fuses
fuel pressure regulator

Security light is on. Injectors are getting irregular/no pulse on some cylinders.

NO CODES OTHER THAN MISFIRE FROM START ATTEMPT.

POP STARTS FINE! TAKES 2 FEET ! FIRST TRY. RUNS PERFECT.

After it has been running, I have fiddled with it enough to know how to jump the starter correctly and get it to start by key.

I BELIEVE, that the security function is to deny injectors pulse, thus no fuel. And it pop starts, because technically the car thinks it running, no starting. When i try to start it up after it has been running with the key, its rough and takes a little bit, but does. I think its because theres fuel left over in the injectors or whereever, and it supplies the engine with just enough to crank. After it sits for about a half hour or more after running, will not start by key again.

Let me know what you guys think. Thanks. Peace

hectorc

iTrader: (4)

To me it sounds like the immobilizer is acting up. I'm a little surprised you manage to bypass it when many others struggle in doing so. either way it seems it has done it's damage to the starter. I would take it to tee dealership/shop to run a diagnostic with the Consult and see if the immobilizer is throwing up any flags that the Check Engine Light is not.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

yeah, solid security light=keys need to be reprogrammed

fastisnothing

how sure are you? because if its gotta go to a dealership, its going to cost me a buttload to fix if they need to diagnose it. i've done alot

Daniel1120

iTrader: (1)

If you think its the immobilzer you can call out a locksmith. You can have him try to reprogram it on the spot, without having to tow it. Prices vary, call around and explain the situation.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

no noob, shut up. Be gone....

Feldman

iTrader: (1)

after everything you have gone through it sounds like you might have to take it to the dealer unfortunately. One last think i might try doing is to get it started and take it to a locksmith that has the equipment to program keys. I got a new key cut and programed for like $50 i think at a local shop.

simple diagnostic costs like $85 at the dealer i think and then you can take it from there. It sounds like you know your stuff but unfortunately you can't really do much with the NVIS with out the consult II

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

ok, there's a difference between getting a new key and programming it vs the immobilizer losing the codes and needing it programmed to recognize the keys.
Either way, if the car starts when he push starts it, then it probably wouldn't be the immobilizer. However, the security light is solid and that most likely means that he needs to give the dealer $50 and get it fixed...

Feldman

iTrader: (1)

I wasn't trying to imply that, my though was maybe the chip in the key was the culprit in which case a new key would solve the problem. Next step is a reprogram or new NVIS from the dealership. If that really is the problem

fastisnothing

lol true that.

Anybody know where the "Delete Dumb Answer" button is?

And yes I do know my stuff. I hit a dead end without Consult. I talked to my local Nissan shop foreman and hes pretty sure its the key chip as well. Either way, I have loads and loadsss of new sensors and a grounding kit, new battery, new starter, alternator, KNOCK SENSOR (WHAT A B***CH, stupid swirl valve), entire fuel system has all new components tank to motor.

I'll let you all know what happens this week. After my license is legit again tommorow im taking it there asap.


OFF TOPIC, BUT HEY, I STARTED IT...

Where is good autocross in or around upstate new york? My eibach pros and kyb agx have only seen 2 weeks of road before this stupid key bullcrud and let me tell you i WANNA GO FAST.

fastisnothing

and one more thing

I remember when I was a noob and I had all the answers.

d1max2nv

iTrader: (5)

check the key, it might be faulty if the chip in there got messed up, it wont start....

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

If the security system has been tripped, you wouldn't get it to start via the push start method.

One item you've over looked and is frequently found to be at fault with no start conditions is the ignition switch.

bigleman

iTrader: (4)

i dont see "battery" anywhere in this thread

fastisnothing

read all the posts next time if your considering trying to help



and yes i changed the battery.

and it couldnt be the ignition switch, i also installed a push button. It works same as the key, as long as they key is in the ON position.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Being that's an aftermarket accessory tied directly to the problem at hand, I sure hope that you thoroughly checked that circuit first.

fastisnothing

i just said it works the same as the key when the key is in the ON position. the push button was installed after the problem as a possible solution, because it skips over the ignition switch....and its not tied into anything, its a wire that taps into the wire that turns the starter, the key turns over the car, so does the button.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

You may want to check your start signal from the ignition switch to the ECU. I think it's the red with blue stripe wire running from the ignition switch. This signal goes from the ignition switch to Fuse #33 (7.5) amp and then a brown/white wire runs to the ECU.

Some one had an issue with that signal to the ECU recently. If this signal was intermittent/ flakey due to a bad ignition switch I could see the ECU not firing the injectors properly for start up. I think your aftermarket start button is not having any effect for this signal. Considering the time and money you have put into this problem installing a new ignition switch may be worthwhile.

fastisnothing

I'm ending this thread. Thanks for the info.

fastisnothing

and if this were the case the vehicle wouldn't crank.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

you're ending this thread? Cause the problem was fixed? What was the solution?

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

WRONG! The ECU controls the fuel pump, spark and injectors but it can not prevent your starter from cranking. If you look at the circuit diagrams in the FSM, that's assuming you know how to read wiring diagrams, you could determine that. The BCM can prevent cranking depending on signals from the theft system but the ECU can not.

I have not tried it but from what I can tell by looking at the circuit diagrams the car would crank even if you removed the ECU.

Nobody here is going to tell you exactly what the cause of your problem is, it's hard enough to troubleshoot problems in person let alone over the org. I know that the ignition switch is somewhat of a long shot but it certainly is a possibllity for the reasons I mentioned earlier, it is also a relatively cheap and easy item to try.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

The ECU needs the start signal from the ignition switch, if it does not get that signal, due to a faulty ignition switch, the ECU will (probably) not fire the injectors. You do not even have to get a new switch to check if the start signal is the problem, just a voltmeter and the knowledge to use it. If you do not have that then your best bet is to replace the switch.

Edit: I noticed your car is a 99 so it probably has the imobilizer. I'm not sure if you can bypass the imobilizer by "bump" starting the car, if so then maybe there is a issue with the imobilizer. Since mine is a 98 I never really cared about that function.

fastisnothing

I'm typing very slowly to prevent myself from jamming buttons or breaking my keyboard.

My car spent one day at Nissan and a sensor was suggested.

1.5 Hour Diagnostic came up with "no spark"

$255 Later, That sensor was not the issue. They suggest a computer.

I'm in a bad money situation so my grandfather was paying for the work.

From Nissan a 5 Speed, Calispec, 99 computer costs 810$. AND 700$ LABOR.

Thats not even what I'm mad about.

THEY "APPRAISED" MY CAR AT $500.

THEY SPECIFICALLY TOLD MY GRANDFATHER TO NOT FIX IT. ITS NOT WORTH IT.

WITH 103,000. BRAND NEW EXEDY CLUTCH KIT, MINOR KICKER RUST, NOT EVEN VISIBLE. LIGHT SCRATCHES. agx shocks and eibach springs and 4 good tires with less than 2,000 miles on all of it. 1,600 in sensors. NOT MENTION I BOUGHT THE ****ING CAR FROM THEM IN 2006. CAR IS ****ING LEGIT.

sorry caps lock. im so angry. my grandfather has taken their advice to not fix it.

and as well they informed him my windsheild was broken and stressed the fact it needed to be fixed or nobody is ever going to inspect it.

and they would do it for $250.

KINGSTON NISSAN, UPSTATE NEW YORK. AVOID AT ALL COSTS.

i left a detailed message with service manager. we're having a sit down conversation tommorow. and pending conversation is going to determine the length of burnout i will be performing infront of the show room with my "500$" car.

Thanks for all your help.

kingofquartz

iTrader: (3)

Ohh god, I am so sorry to hear that.

Everyone tires to stay away from the dealer for this very reason.

They told him the car isnt worth fixing hoping that they could sell you another car and trade in yours for $500. When I tried to trade in a 2002 Nissan Frontier at the dealer they told me it was only worth $500 because it needed a new cat converter and they wouldnt sell it on the lot and it would be sold at auction for $500. I told them.. well I'll keep it. I ended up selling it myself for $4,200 with the check engine light on... and used the money as a down payment on my new frontier. And believe me.. I really enjoyed rubbing it into the sellers face that I knew the game he was playing.

Remember the dealership is in the business of selling cars.. and that is why they have screwed you. They want you to think its hopeless.. so you will buy a new car.

Good luck tomorrow... make sure there are plenty of prospective buyers on the lot before you smoke em out.

I drove a 93 nissan hardbody for two years in high school that I had to roll start. I just tried to park on hills...

Conrad283

iTrader: (2)

I'm glad you didn't have it replaced by them because they suggested it. If it WERE the problem, that'd be a different story.

That's messed up. KBB ~3000

http://www.kbb.com/KBB/UsedCars/Pric...uizConditions=

Good luck

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

fastisnothing, you posted asking for help with this problem but when some of us take the time to figure out possible causes and provide suggestions such as replacing your ignition switch you chose to ignore them. Then you take the car to the dealer and he screws you, big surprise there.

If/when you find the cause to your problem you will probably find that it is something that should have been simple and obvious. That is the way most electrical problems end up being resolved. The cause of problems is generally not some expensive sensor but a broken wire or a poor contact. A new ignition switch would cost $25-$30 and about 1/2 hour to install. Would replacing the ignition switch fix your problem, I'm not sure, but the dealer had the car all day, charged you $255 and they were still not able to figure it out.

I am not telling you it's the ignition switch because that is the first thing that I pulled out of my a**. If you do not get the start signal from the switch to the ECU you car will crank but not start. The ECU does does not know that you are trying to start it so the ECU and will not provide fuel and/or spark.

fastisnothing

nopike. im not being a ****. im being genuinely nice. im not a retard. i fix cars. if its something that could go wrong. i've replaced it or tested it. yes i know how to use a multimeter. yes i tested restistance. it falls within ranges and is operable. its something limiting spark with key turn and not for tire rotation and vehicle pop start. your as bad as nissan throwing out the most random fixes possible. its a matter of deduction. "keep it simple, stupid"

fastisnothing

it gets fuel the second the key is in the ON position under any circumstance

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

If you know how to use a multimeter why don't you use it to make sure the start signal is getting to the ECU. I am not throwing out random causes, I explained exactly why I would suspect the ignition switch. I happen to know a little about control systems and electronics myself.


Good luck!

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

What about spark? The start signal is not provided to the ECU for no reason at all. If you are a mechanic why did you bother taking it to Nissan? And what about the imobilizer circuit?

I'm on the org because I have some understanding of electronic control systems and think it's fun to help people with their electrical problems. I have helped a good number of people on this forum.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

ON turns on the fuel pump, the injectors do not provide fuel to the engine until they are activated by the ECU.

fastisnothing

It's getting injector pulse. Its getting fuel. It floods if cranked too long. All my wires are grounded, re-grounded, and extra grounded. Wiring harness is fine. When I say the car runs great, the car runs great. After it has been running, you can start it again within 10 minutes or so. I figured out how to do it after 4 starters. You can bump the starter a few times until I get it at the right sound, and with a little gas pedal will start. Everytime. It's even had its rogue crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank crank and start after sitting. That's only happened a few times. Still pop starts perfectly first try every time.

The reason it went to the dealership is because I'm sick and tired of putting money in the wrong thing.

Point is, I bought the car cash same day in 2006. $8,800. Six months later, factory clutch dies. Whatever. Single owner before me. Car was originally bought from the same dealership. I am second owner. I put the new clutch in. Two months later, seals on rear shocks blow out. Bouncing on springs. I drop $1800 in Eibach and KYB AGX, alignment kit, 4 tires, 1 right control arm. Two weeks later this **** happens. Its been off the road for 2 years, i just scraped the yellow inspection sticker.

I've NEVER wanted to bring it to the dealer. My grandparents were trying to do me a favor and get the reliable car back on the road for my new job.

Now they want nothing to do with it because it "was never worth fixing"

So Instead they're putting money into my piece of **** woods/mudding truck with the transmission on its last limb.

I'm not trying to sound ungreatful which im not, point is. THE CAR IS WORTH FIXING. It will run until i get rid of it. And run great. I do bi-yearly tune ups on all my vehicles, 2,000 mile oil changes, and never EVER drive a car that needs work that concerns mine or my passengers safety. Bushings, tie rods, tires, ball joints, that kind of thing.

Nopike

iTrader: (2)

That's cool, I think the car is worth fixing also,.... it's a 4th gen Maxima. I'm just trying to help out and give you a possible solution with a limited amount of information to work with. I honestly hope you get it running right.

Product_Of_Korea

iTrader: (8)

Well if its not to late and your up to it......
99 to 95 ECM swap a Success! +1 Later NATS
99 to 95 ECM swap a Success!

fastisnothing

I guess im going to be comparing ecu model numbers til i find a 99. Im not going through 99-95 swap. Too much wasted effort. car doesn't throw codes, i like the immobilizer. sketchy, but thief preventative. i can barely start the thing. ill find one and pay the other nissan dealership in poughkipsee to program the key and chip to the new computer. hopefully for spring this year. hasnt seen road salt in two years lol