I am experiencing that my 96 Maxima SE (5spd) is stuttering when I press on the gas pedal. It jerks slightly, however, the check engine light is not on (yet)* Nevermind *, it just came on!!!. I recently changed the Spark plugs and, in doing so, 1 of the rear coils (closest to passenger wheel) was damaged. The spring was coming out of it so I replaced it with an ebay one. That was about 3 months ago. At idle, the car feels normal, however, when I press the gas it misfires. It happens most when I am in a higher gear at a low speed (i.e. 15 mph in 3rd gear and I press the gas). This never occurred before. I currently have 150k on motor.
Additionally, I did notice that it started to happen a few hours after I filled my tank but I always get Premium fuel... Could it have been the gas that the gas station supplied me?

I went to Autozone today and they pulled up trouble code P1320.
There are a few things here on the list and I dont know where to start:
-Open or short circuit
-Failed Power Transistor Unit
-Failed Ignition Ballast Resistor
-Cam Position Sensor Failure


Any thoughts on where I should start?

 

what kind of plug did you put in?

 

high gear, low speed. I have the same problem. Its like the motor is bouncing around during the brief hesitation before it accelerates normally. I wish I had a solution to offer.

 

That is precisely what I am experiencing... I put in Iridium NGK4 plugs that never need gapping. This is the not first time i've used these types of plugs. Not sure why they are acting up now...

 

I doubt it's your plugs dude. My set-up is probably pretty different than yours so the only things I could think that we have in common is like worn sub frame bushings or something.

I am slow to diagnose things like this...but one day I'll figure it out, I promise!

 

I could be wrong, but you could try cleaning your MAF.

 

brand new MAF for me. I know the car probably isn't meant to be driven that low in those high of gears but I really dont think the bucking is "normal" by any means.

 

Can you accelerate under normal throttle, maintain speed without the stuttering? Do you get it when you try to accelerate with a bit more oomph? (causing a good downshift...)

 

i get the same thing....i just got es engine bushings, and will post the results but i have a feeling it is something actually going on with the engine. Feels almost as if it loses all its vacuum for a second when the throttle opens and the engine is "gagging"

 

yep sounds about right. I have ES motor mounts in my car, I thought they actually CAUSED the problem by making everything rigid. IIRC they werent very forgiving with fitment, possibly slightly offset, and I had to kinda force them into position. So I always worried the motor was constantly being pushed upwards or something.

 

I'm not pushing the car when it happens. It's normal accelaration that it's happening. Also, my car has never done it and I've had it for 7 years so it's like coughing and sometimes smells like a light burning after I drive it for a while...

I posted a trouble code on my original comment above that I pulled this morning (P1320).

 

http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/index....1996&DTC=P1320

So possibly ignition related. I was getting a crank sensor code as well, but replaced it with no change (I believe my starter is causing that code anyway). I have the resistor bypass on my knock sensor but I dont think its working for some reason.

 

Change your spark plugs, and check the spark plug wires for damage and make sure they are on the spark plugs securely.Sounds like an ignition misfire.

 

U suggest i change the plugs, even though they are only a few months old?

I went to remove the rear middle coil and the spring popped out of it and the actual tip of the coil is stuck in the motor around the plug. I need more help now!!! crap!

Lastly, the Cam Position Sensor is 80$ n i dont want to buy it if i'm not sure that is the problem...

 

You removed the rear middle coil? So you took off the intake manifold and everything? Try to get some needle nose pliers in there or something. As long as the spark plug is still installed, nothing dropped down INTO the motor.

 

My brother-in-law's max did the same thing. The problem ended up being the #2 injector. His car pulled the cylinder misfire as well as the cam position sensor code and it only seemed like it missed when he was under 3k RPM.

He changed plugs, coils, and cam sensor before he finally figured out what the problem was.

 

how do you test your injectors?

 

The faulty injector is a good suggestion. I checked my front ones a few weeks ago since they are so easy to get to but didnt get to the back. The fronts checked out okay.

Just put an ohm-meter on them and get a reading between the two terminals. I believe they are supposed to be around 11 to 12 ohms (mine read 11.7~) but I will come back and verify this when I get to my maintenance manual.

edit- The injector ohm spec is to be between 10 and 14 ohms.

 

I had the same question with the back injectors, and JNCoRacer helped me out with this:
"Measuring the resistance of the rear bank of cylinders is almost as easy,
but it is difficult to reach the injectors. The resistance may be measured
at a conveniently located electrical connector. Notice the largest,
thickest electrical harness at the top of the engine. This is the Engine
Control Harness and it is shaped like a U, with the open top of the U at the
driver's side of the car. The U has two corners. Look at the corner
nearest the passenger seat. Just inside that corner you will find an 8-pin
electrical connector. This is connector F131. Disconnect this
connector. Now look at the male part, the connector half with the pins
exposed. They are arranged in two rows of four pins.
The pins are numbered 1 - 4 (top row) and 5 - 8 (bottom row).
Measure the resistance of:
- injector #1 between pins 1 and 2.
- injector #3 between pins 1 and 6.
- injector #5 between pins 1 and 5.
Be sure to measure the PINS, not the female receptacles.

Taken from this thread...Daniel : Shaking car...

Found this by doing a search...keywords test injectors. Sort by... relevancy.
Section... 4th generation."

 

Okay I decided to check my rear injectors today via Maximamisfire's how-to in the previous post. AWESOME "short-cut". All of my injectors checked out okay (14.2) and I would have been pretty pissed if I had removed the intake manifold to find this out. Definitely worth the 5 minutes to check.

I want to add that when you are looking at the pins in the connector the "top" side of the connector is the side opposite of the "latch" that you would press down on to release and disconnect the harness. This may be self-explanatory for those of you with stock set-ups but my harness kind of just lays in the bay due to the 3.5 swap etc so it took some trial and error to make sure i was checking the right pins.

 

check your IAT sensor, its the little one near the MAF on the intake. I got a code for it today(finally)

I went over all the things listed in this thread and nothing helped. Hopefully this will.

 

Sorry noob, the IAT's role has little significance in controlling of the motor.

 

Umm, do some research. IAT = Intake Air temperature sensor. Measures the temperature of the air coming into the intake and adjusts the fuel mixture accordingly, causing it to either run too rich/lean. Symptoms of a failing IAT?
How about power loss, rough idle at start, rouch idle at high temperature, stuttering, and engine running to lean.

If you look at the symtoms described, it points to the IAT. It worked for me is all I'm saying. The IAT is pretty cheap.

 

IATs pull codes tho... wouldn't a malfunctioning one throw a CEL?

 

Well, you obviously know more than me and everybody else here on the org. So like I said, go ahead and replace it and let us know how it goes!

 

good point, I got a little too excited when my car finally threw me that code. But yeah, I give up, im having the shop fix it, I'll let you guys know what the results are. Maybe it'll save you guys the money that I now have to spend.

 

Where's the result?? I got the P1320 alone on my 98 5-spd. Rough idle and slight (very quick) hesitation from time to time CERTAINLY when I push it. I can here it misfiring thru exhaust and I smell gas. I have original coils except for one and changed plugs last yr (ngk). Plan on getting new coils and plugs soon. Where can I get best deal? Or where should I start??

 

that code it the ignition signal primary circuit fault...

 

Your problem. Needs to be checked out with an O scope. Go to a shop and check it out. See if it really is a misfire. It could be coilpack related, It could be sensor related. It could be a faulty injector at certain pressures. Did you check the ohms of the injectors while revving the car up?

 

****Update**** I changed all 6 coils and got new plugs....Car runs 100% better, no hesitation or misfire.......BUT P1320 STILL THERE!!! HELP!

 

Im also having a P1320 code. My 97' Max is misfiring. When the car starts up it seems to idle fine until it starts to warm up. We checked the coils with an ohmmeter and all coils were reading fine except for one that was reading a little lower than others and I replaced it with a new one. I changed spark plugs and coil boots. I changed coil boots because the boots were shooting sparks through the side of the boots instead of the bottom. (IDK if it was normal but oh well.)

We just checked the resistance on the fuel injectors and all were reading around 11.5-11.7. I also replaced fuel filter for the heck of it and still nothing.

I also have other codes...

P1320 - Ignition Signal
P0130 - Air Fuel Sensor 1 bank 1 circuit
P0150 - Air Fuel Sensor 1 bank 2 circuit
P1220 - Fuel Pump Control module
P0500 - Vehicle speed sensor circuit fault

I was told that I should change ALL 6 coils instead of just 1, they are just so damn expensive, but I would like clarification before I do so.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.

 

I'm gonna swap my "ignition condenser" next. It's at courtesy Nissan for about $15 shipped. Changed all coils, plugs, checked harness and CRankshaft pos sensor. Car runs great BUT 1320 still there. 1 week til emmissions deadline! HELP if there's a solution!

 

Use Hanshin coils!! The BWD coils at advance auto are hanshins. They are $80 BUT thanks to the Internet I found a thread with some guy who had a few "promo" codes for advanced auto. It's good for online purchase and saves $30 on a $75 purchase. I bought online and picked up 5 min later at my local Advanced Auto.