Maximamisfire

iTrader: (1)

Hi all,
First of all - I changed my ignition coils

I have been posting in a different thread for a while, and I am consolidating the info here as I have tried all I can and got nowhere yet. A bit lengthy post, but I did do almost all I found in the forums.

I bought the car recently, and after a few days, I started feeling a bump now and then when at a stoplight (in gear). Over a while, that slowly became a stumble/hesitation. Sometimes when I gave gas, the engine shook but did not accelerate, and then the RPMs suddenly jumped high e.t.c. An occasional surge now and then. Previously threw P0300 (multiple/random misfire) and P0305 (Cyl 5 misfire) but no code in a while. I have the freeze frame data from those codes, can post if it helps.What I did since then:

1. Got my spark plugs changed. (Was not on the org then, didnt know much, and the mechanic put in autolite double platinums. He said some of the old ones were gapped badly/worn out and said he gapped the new ones right). The old plugs didnt look bad, as in, no fouling except for a couple which were blackish. I thought that will cure the misfire problem, but didnt.

2. The day afetr getting new plugs, I had the same problems return, and threw a cyl 5 misfire code under load. The CEL flashed and went off, and didnt flash again. I on the highway, reached my destination (approx 200 mi), and took it to a firestone store for a diag. They did not find anything, apparently the code cleared by itself. Only suggested replacing with NGK. I did not do it yet as autolites didn't seem to improve/worsen my problem.

3. Stealership diag: Did a power balance test and said my injectors 1&5 "were going bad". Wanted me to charge 600$ for it, so I bought my own injectors (BWD) and got it done elsewhere for less than half.Also got a new fuel filter then. No improvement
From then on, I started throwing cyl 5 misfire under load regularly. Changed coil #5 with new one, and the misfire under load went off. But the misfire at idle remained.

4. Changed cyl 3 with another new one. The misfire at idle became a little less prominent, but still misses. Bought used coils from a member of the org and changed the remaining 4 today. Felt it was driving smoother but misfire returned.

5. Cleaned the super dirty throttle body. No change.

6. Fuel trims seem not too high (1.xx-2.xx longterm with one STFT at 7.xx %). I think this kind of rules out vacuum leaks.

Seems to misfire at idle now, when warmed up. Sometimes loading the car at idle with AC and Defogger seems to prompt it to misfire. Also, at idle, my rpm seem to be very close to 500 (in D. Neutral ~ 750). The misfire is intermittent, so cant really unplug an injector/coil when idling to notice the difference.

I checked the injectors with an ohmmeter, all of them are in spec. Did the wiggle test, didn't seem to impact. I am not throwing any codes right now. Not even pending (I bought an OBD reader, and hook it up after every trip). The mechanic half assed the compression test while changing injectors and told the back row are around 140+, which should be fine. A different mechanic told me to not spend money on a compression test as he thinks its not a compression issue.

The stealer said something about the bank 1 heated O2 sensor. He said he tested the sensor it seemed fine but there was a code. "It is there for some reason, maybe we should change it". I think that is just ripping me off because I always carry an obd reader and never even found a pending code for the Bank 1 sensor 1 he mentioned.

Any suggestions will be highly appreciated. Also, is there is an org member in state college, PA/ Buffalo, NY or any area around who is willing to discuss this issue with me?

Thanks for reading through.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

Try changing to NGK spark plugs. If you don't have the $60 for NGK laser platinum then at least get the copper ones. Did you clean the IACV? It sounds like the dealer is trying to rob you by just replacing parts without fixing the problem. I have the same car as you and I had a misfire which threw a code. I checked it with a reader and installed a new cyl 2 coil and KS resistor since the '99 has all the emissions crap in the way. It fixed the problem but 6 months later I'm getting a hiccup sometimes. I'll probably end up doing what you did by buying used coils. At least you found this place. Good luck.

Jriv815

Could you post the freeze frame data please? I have had a similar issue. Mine sometimes will flash the CEL when cruising at about 75 or 80. The code that I get out of it is P0301 which is a cylinder 1 misfire. In regards to yours however, if the short term fuel trim is trying to richen the mixture (7.xx) that could indicate a crack or hole in the exhaust BEFORE either of the first O2's in turn diluting the exhaust gas. They first O2's control the STFT. If possible, i would recommend having the car put on a load bearing dyno and have a 5 gas analyzer hooked up. If this gets done, post the readings at idle, 1500, and about 2500 RPM's. And, one more thing, the manufacturer only recommends a single platinum spark plug.

Maximamisfire

iTrader: (1)

This is slightly old data. My car did not throw a code since changing the coils though it clearly misfires.

P0300 (This is what I took my car to the stealership for)
RPM - 900
Load value - 29.4%
MAP sensor - 35 kPa
Coolant temp-145 F
STFT1 - 5.4%
LTFT1 - 9.3%
STFT2 - 3.1%
LTFT2 - 9.3%
Vehicle speed - 0 MPH
FUEL SYS1 - closed
Fuel SYS2 - closed

Also, in this code, there were STFT 3,4 and LTFT 3,4, which were both
(-)100.6%. I believe its because of the OBD II reader (advance auto parts), as trims 3,4 didnt make any sense to me. However, I forced a code last week by pulling off the coil harness and got a P1320 with the fuel trims I posted, and there were only STFT1,2 and LTFT 1,2 with my OBD reader.

I can force another code if you want me to post the latest trims.

I also had a cyl #5 misfire a few times under load (I am speaking about load~ 96.x % and RPM of 2,9xx and 3,875) and both those times, the fuel systems were open (I guess it makes sense too, since the RPM were so high and the car was struggling to find power up the slope). The MAP readings for those were IIRC 68 and 94 kPa. Or something close to these values.

Any idea how much it will cost to get a dyno test with the 5 gas analyzer?
Also, can double platinums hurt? Well, maybe after pumping all the money for injectors, coils and other stuff, I may as well change the plugs. But again, the question is - will it do anything or will I be throwing away a set of plugs for no reason?

I have a warranty on my car for a while, I want to trace down any serious engine problems (if any) before it expires.

StickShiftV6

ngk ngk ngk. ngk ngk ngk. hell even denso's, but please please please no autolite plugs on japcars please.

5SpeedMax

Perhaps the knock sensor? I had a very similar problem, found a good mechanic, it fixed the problem. Everyone was telling me it was the air mass meter. Good Luck. I really know how frustrating this is for you.

Maximamisfire

iTrader: (1)

The knock sensor was replaced by the used car dealer just before I bought the car. Infact, I read the codes and said I will buy the car if he changes the sensor. The knock sensor code never came back.

Also, if the knock sensor is working, it will retard the timing to avoid knock. If its dead, the ECU will know and use the fail safe timing maps to ensure (almost) any possibility of detonation. A member on the org did a comprehensive study on the knock sensor and mapped out almost all the fail safe timing maps of the ECU, and also the timing maps with a good working knock sensor. I cant find it right now, but did read it a couple of days ago.

I am unable to connect the dots regarding the knock sensor and misfire, can you tell me what your car was doing and how it related to the knock sensor?

Jriv815

Ok...it looks like with the fuel trims that you have posted, that the ECM is trying to richen the mixture. So, one thought is to check the ground wire to the ECM of fuel injector 5. The reason im saying that is because a fuel injector is a ground side controlled solenoid and is controlled by the ECM. And to be totally honest, there is really no damage that can be done with a double platinum plug. The double platinum is just simply a longer life plug. Just make sure that the heat range of the new plug is the same as OE stuff or it could cause fuel fouled plugs or on the other side of the spectrum detonation or preignition. And to be honest, if you are located in PA, any place that has an older emissions testing site with the dyno ask them to put it on the dyno.

nymax99se

man.....sounds like my problem i had, mine shaked on acceleration and just drived like crap....well 6 new ignition coils NGK!!!! spark plugs 6 new fuel injectors and also a new MAF later its all but some what good. next project is my motor mounts.

ChrisMan287

iTrader: (34)

Take those crap plugs out.

Maximamisfire

iTrader: (1)

@nymax99se:
Sounds like an exclusive special easter egg by Nissan in the 99 SE models

How is the compression? Changing out the coils (two rear coils to be precise) got rid of my stumbling/surging and other acceleration related issues, but the misfire at idle still remains.

about autolite plugs:
I will change them out this week, will put in some NGK copper plugs. Copper because it is supposed to give a better spark than platinum and its much cheaper. My car does almost the same before I removed the older plugs (NGK), so I am not convinced that it will make a difference. However, I am pretty sure you guys certainly know better, I will change them. And if it does this even after copper plugs, I would have comprehensively ruled out a plug issue.

Also, should I get the compression test done? Or does it sound like a waste of money at this point? Also, any inputs about copper plugs wil be greatly helpful.

Thank you guys..

S1cTech

Are you not listening too the 4 people that told you? It could be the spark plugs. Are don't work well with American or European plugs. And copper doesn't really make a better or "cold" spark. That is just something cheap people say because they can't get the lasers. Get the lasers. Where not driving nascars. As long as they spark it is fine. Niether really sparks that much better. Plus Lasers last much much longer up to 100k were coppers go in 30k, So if you keep replacing those u already paid the cost of a laser plat.

Maximamisfire

iTrader: (1)

S1cTech:
Thanks for the information about the copper plugs. I am not ignoring what people told me, I am going to change my plugs in a couple of days,as I already said in my previous post.

I will put in the lasers as you suggested.

Maximamisfire

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a lot for the suggestions guys, putting in NGKs seems to have solved the problem, at least for a day till now. I hope I dont come back tomorrow to revive this thread

A couple of things though:
I forgot to put antiseize on the spark plugs before I put them in. I searched around, and it looks like its no big deal because the threads are nickel plated and they should not seize.
Also, I was running low on money, so I put in the copper plugs for now to see if it will solve the problem. Given the antiseize situation, should I take off the coppers right away and install the laser platinums?
Or can I wait till say, 20,000 miles and then put in the lasers?

Also, I found some oil on the threads of the plug on cyl #1. Several senior members on the org seem to have oil on exactly cyl #1 threads and their cars have been running fine for several years. So I assume there is nothing to worry about this. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Thanks a lot for all the help.

P.S:- Is there any way that I can get my money back from autolite for their crappy plugs?

danmack34

iTrader: (7)

hey random question did the sparkplugs work? im having THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

[off topic] Way to quote me in your sig w/o credit....

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Funny this thread should come up and me see it.

As many of you know, I have a pretty damn clean 4th gen and maintenance is pretty awesome on it (some of you may remember my FS thread and the excel spreadsheet I attached). I'm religious when it comes to maintenance. However...

Don't want to start another thread since many members hate that, but I have the same issue as you:

1) Small blip in the idle when at a light. Happens once or twice per light, and then might not happen at other lights.
2) Had on/off (has been off for about a month and a half) CEL for two of the O2 sensors (I'm also 99 and cali).

- Plugs are to be changed in another 14k
- Fuel filter is 20k old (300ZX/30k filter)
- Knock sensor is like 15k old
- Only 93 octane gasoline since I bought this car 3 years ago
- MAF is okay last I knew
- Car drives FINE otherwise, even when opening her up

I JUST had my inspection done, and nothing came up on the emissions.

I was thinking about just waiting until I need new plugs in 14k and then see what happens, but this summer/fall the O2 CEL's were a constant on/off. Seemed to have stopped with the colder temperatures.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

1. did you replace the sensors yet?
2. have you checked the connections at all?

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

Connections yes, sensors no as they are all relatively new. According to my spreadsheet, they were changed around 20k ago (72k).

mbhang

I had an ignition coil issue and P1320. I got brand new coils from ebay ( a seller called airflowtec). While I was at it, I also changed spark plugs ( I got NGK Spark Plug BKR5E-11 from Kragen).

Within 2 weeks, my new coils were giving issues. The three on the firewall side were gone with a lot of misfiring, and P1320 code.

I replaced the 3 on firewall side with my original coils, and the car was mostly running well, except for occasional miss - no codes being thrown.

I then replaced the radiator side with my original set - I immediately got 1320 (but this time, I had a USB scan tool, and was able to determine that it was the middle coil). I got a new ignition coil from Autozone (was Hanshin make - identical to the original OEM coil).

My ran smooth for a few months, and again gave P1320. This time, one of my old coils on the firewall side had gone bad, and I decided to replace the entire 6 - bought a set from ebay seller golf6daysaweek as he has very good ratings - and got very good set of coils from him.

As an aside - I also had issues with the spark plugs I got from Kragen - I got a set of 12 - 6 for my maxima and 6 for my Nissan Quest. Both of my cars were misfiring occasionally - and I think I got a bad set - once I removed and checked the gap - it was an enormous 0.046 - I went ahead and also replaced spark plugs and used the platinum plugs this time and my quest's misfiring issue was solved, so I also changed plugs on the maxima.

It has been a few months now, and both my cars are running smooth.

IlyaK

iTrader: (47)

I've been using copper plugs. Never had issues until I started F'in with the engine (00VI). My engine/CEL's went to **** with the 00VI (installed by a reputable member on NYCMaximas who's done like 50 installs without issue). From 26k to like 66k, my car was PERFECT. Not an issue. Do the 00VI, and ever since then I have little things here and there wrong with it.

I've obviously gotten rid of the 00VI since.

Maximamisfire

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the spark plugs did work. I drove for a few thousand miles after that and did not have the misfire issue again.
If you have this annoying problem with the misfire without triggering the CEL, I would suggest changing the spark plugs to NGK (which ever you want, even coppers will do).
If that does not work, try buying used coils from a member of the org. If the problem changes, you know it had something to do with the ignition coils. If it does not work, you at least changed the spark plugs and spent very little money. You can come and find answers again from this awesome forum