Replacing front axles? Who has done it on their Max and how hard was it? Help!
11-12-2009, 03:48 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 108
Replacing front axles? Who has done it on their Max and how hard was it? Help!
this is going along with my thread earlier in the week about suspension upgrades. my car's front end is severely out of whack after clipping a curb in pitch black dark (while slightly buzzed ...DOH!). i turned the wheels all the way into my right turn...right into a HUGE drainage gutter. it was conveniently placed about 8 feet PAST the stop sign at the intersection, which was nice. anyway. the entire front end is fuct. car has 85k on it now. i am just going to replace all suspension in the front instead of investigating what is damaged. i am also broke which is awesome. i have never tried any suspension mods b4. my friend said if i buy the fronts (axle), he can assist me. is this a job that can be done without major problems after removing and installing again? is there a how-to someone could refer me too? in the meantime, i will continue researching the internet. i also found some refurbed axles for $80, is this good? thanks
11-12-2009, 05:12 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 268
#1 - Don't drink and drive
#2 - SEARCH: "replace axle" = http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nger-axle.html & http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-replace.html & http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...t=replace+axle, etc.
Axle replacement can easily be done yourself. After replacing my passenger side axle, the most difficult part for me was getting the seal in right. It leaks a little, so I am pulling the trans out tomorrow to replace the seal and also to check (and possible replace) the clutch.
#2 - SEARCH: "replace axle" = http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...nger-axle.html & http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-replace.html & http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...t=replace+axle, etc.
Axle replacement can easily be done yourself. After replacing my passenger side axle, the most difficult part for me was getting the seal in right. It leaks a little, so I am pulling the trans out tomorrow to replace the seal and also to check (and possible replace) the clutch.
11-12-2009, 05:15 PM
#3
You seem to keep jumping back and forth between an accident, suspension, and axles.
In any case, replacing the axles is a very simple process.
If you search, you'll find howtos.
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=158
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=44
...etc.
In any case, replacing the axles is a very simple process.
If you search, you'll find howtos.
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=158
http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=44
...etc.
11-12-2009, 07:30 PM
#5
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Fuk 301 it's 410 Bal Md black/purple.
Posts: 1,860
If you have, any knowledge about your car and you know the mechanicisium
of the car you can do it. If you have no clue as what Is what, you might as
well let the pro's do it. If you really want to do this yourself you can but you
will have to be walked through. If you want to do this yourself than your going
to need some: Rachets, the size of the bolts can go from 17-19 jack stands,breaker bars with a 32mm nut,torque
wrench to tighten up the nut. To take out the axles your going to have to
have a catch pan in case the fluid comes out to catch the tranny fluid. you
will have to take off the calipers and the rotors and the wheels to get the
axles out. The passinger axle is a hard one because you have a 3-bolt
bracket that has to come out then you can pull it out or slide it out. If the seals are bad or cracked or worn than replace them as necessary.
of the car you can do it. If you have no clue as what Is what, you might as
well let the pro's do it. If you really want to do this yourself you can but you
will have to be walked through. If you want to do this yourself than your going
to need some: Rachets, the size of the bolts can go from 17-19 jack stands,breaker bars with a 32mm nut,torque
wrench to tighten up the nut. To take out the axles your going to have to
have a catch pan in case the fluid comes out to catch the tranny fluid. you
will have to take off the calipers and the rotors and the wheels to get the
axles out. The passinger axle is a hard one because you have a 3-bolt
bracket that has to come out then you can pull it out or slide it out. If the seals are bad or cracked or worn than replace them as necessary.
11-13-2009, 08:05 AM
#7
This is a fairly simply job. If you don' know how it works go buy a haynes manual or a chitlons.
I had neve done one before ( last november) and did it in my driveway. Took me about 30 ish minutes for the front left drive axle
I had neve done one before ( last november) and did it in my driveway. Took me about 30 ish minutes for the front left drive axle
11-15-2009, 04:28 PM
#8
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 38
I'm in the middle of the job myself and am having difficulties. On mine, after removing the knuckle bolts, the strut is pushing down upon the driveshaft ripping the boots even further. I haven't heard of anyone else with this problem. Should I get a set of spring compressors before finishing the job? any other ideas?
11-15-2009, 04:29 PM
#9
I'm in the middle of the job myself and am having difficulties. On mine, after removing the knuckle bolts, the strut is pushing down upon the driveshaft ripping the boots even further. I haven't heard of anyone else with this problem. Should I get a set of spring compressors before finishing the job? any other ideas?
11-15-2009, 04:51 PM
#11
11-15-2009, 05:38 PM
#12
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 38
Thanks pmohr. Got the strut assembly off. On the passenger side, I have removed the 3 bracket bolts and am having difficulty seeing where to pry the shaft away. There is a little space between the bracket and inner CV joint, but that flange looks delicate. What would be the best way to proceed from here?
Also, according to the FSM, it looks like I have an ABS sensor attached. I thought I did not have ABS as there is no light nor does ABS kick in when I slam the brakes. Would that sensor still be there if I didn't have ABS?
Also, according to the FSM, it looks like I have an ABS sensor attached. I thought I did not have ABS as there is no light nor does ABS kick in when I slam the brakes. Would that sensor still be there if I didn't have ABS?
Last edited by iflossdaily; 11-15-2009 at 05:42 PM.
11-15-2009, 06:36 PM
#13
Thanks pmohr. Got the strut assembly off. On the passenger side, I have removed the 3 bracket bolts and am having difficulty seeing where to pry the shaft away. There is a little space between the bracket and inner CV joint, but that flange looks delicate. What would be the best way to proceed from here?
Also, according to the FSM, it looks like I have an ABS sensor attached. I thought I did not have ABS as there is no light nor does ABS kick in when I slam the brakes. Would that sensor still be there if I didn't have ABS?
Also, according to the FSM, it looks like I have an ABS sensor attached. I thought I did not have ABS as there is no light nor does ABS kick in when I slam the brakes. Would that sensor still be there if I didn't have ABS?
Try tapping one of the ears (where the bolts thread in to) sideways to spin the carrier bearing around, so you can tap it out.
If that doesn't work, I've had some success with leaving the three bolts threaded in a few turns, then taking turns hitting them with a hammer and a long extension to walk the carrier bearing out of the bracket.
If that doesn't work, then you may very well have to cut a notch in between the bearing and the bracket, then use a prybar, punch, etc to separate them.
And no, there wouldn't be an ABS sensor if you don't have ABS. Do the axles have the ABS reluctor rings around the outer cup, right next to the spindle?
Do you have the ABS modulator assembly in the engine bay, forward of the master cylinder?
Easiest check would just be to turn the key to On, the ABS indicator should light up for a few seconds (along with most others) as a bulb check.
11-15-2009, 10:39 PM
#15
Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 38
First, give it a good soak in PB Blaster, Kroil, or similar.
Try tapping one of the ears (where the bolts thread in to) sideways to spin the carrier bearing around, so you can tap it out.
If that doesn't work, I've had some success with leaving the three bolts threaded in a few turns, then taking turns hitting them with a hammer and a long extension to walk the carrier bearing out of the bracket.
If that doesn't work, then you may very well have to cut a notch in between the bearing and the bracket, then use a prybar, punch, etc to separate them.
And no, there wouldn't be an ABS sensor if you don't have ABS. Do the axles have the ABS reluctor rings around the outer cup, right next to the spindle?
Do you have the ABS modulator assembly in the engine bay, forward of the master cylinder?
Easiest check would just be to turn the key to On, the ABS indicator should light up for a few seconds (along with most others) as a bulb check.
Try tapping one of the ears (where the bolts thread in to) sideways to spin the carrier bearing around, so you can tap it out.
If that doesn't work, I've had some success with leaving the three bolts threaded in a few turns, then taking turns hitting them with a hammer and a long extension to walk the carrier bearing out of the bracket.
If that doesn't work, then you may very well have to cut a notch in between the bearing and the bracket, then use a prybar, punch, etc to separate them.
And no, there wouldn't be an ABS sensor if you don't have ABS. Do the axles have the ABS reluctor rings around the outer cup, right next to the spindle?
Do you have the ABS modulator assembly in the engine bay, forward of the master cylinder?
Easiest check would just be to turn the key to On, the ABS indicator should light up for a few seconds (along with most others) as a bulb check.
Second- I believe I've figured out what you mean by reluctor rings. See mark (1) on the photo, and also I believe (2) is the ABS sensor from the inside. Also, is there anything I should do about that rust upon reassembly? Grease?
The FSM mentions the ABS actuator. Is this what you are referring to as the "ABS modulator assembly"?
There is no ABS light that has ever come on. I've owned the car for 6 months and the ABS has never activated nor have I felt the characteristic "judder". At least nothing like the Acuras, Ford, or Subaru I've had with ABS. I can only assume that I have ABS and that it's broken. But where do I begin?
Last edited by iflossdaily; 11-15-2009 at 10:53 PM.
11-15-2009, 10:42 PM
#16
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 38
Wow. That is really expensive. The local store here has Amsoil and Redline MT-90 for slightly less than $10/qt., and yes, it is a manual.
11-16-2009, 10:14 PM
#17
Yep, you've got ABS (or did, anyway).
Pull the drivers side kick panel, see if the ABS computer is even there, as well as making sure that it's plugged in.
Then, pull the cluster and replace (or install, if removed) the bulb for the ABS light. If it doesn't do a bulb check, most likely either the ABS computer or the bulb have been removed.
After that, perform the ABS diagnostic procedure, it'll flash codes through the ABS light just like checking TCM or ECU codes.
Pull the drivers side kick panel, see if the ABS computer is even there, as well as making sure that it's plugged in.
Then, pull the cluster and replace (or install, if removed) the bulb for the ABS light. If it doesn't do a bulb check, most likely either the ABS computer or the bulb have been removed.
After that, perform the ABS diagnostic procedure, it'll flash codes through the ABS light just like checking TCM or ECU codes.
11-17-2009, 04:15 AM
#20
11-18-2009, 04:40 PM
#21
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Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 108
does the removal and install of the 4th gen Max front axles (cv's) compare to other cars....meaning, if i locate a detailed how-to, will i be ok following the steps without being required to have any special nissan tools etc. (does it just require basic tools?) if i buy refurbed axles, do they usually come with seals, rubber or anything else needed to replace old axles thanx. i apologize, i never have had to mess with drivetrain or suspension before and i know that certain cars require Make specific tools for things. i dont want to start this job and find out i cant finish it half way through....my beer
11-18-2009, 07:02 PM
#22
Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 263
You don't need any special Nissan tools. You need a 36mm socket and a long breaker bar, or impact wrench, to get the axle nut off. If you replace the transmission seals, a seal puller and a seal driver will help. Axles don't come with the transmission seals, you have to buy them separately.
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