rdw72777

So as some might know, my car has been stalling intermittently at stop signs/red lights, but not all the time. I have done the cleaning of the MAF sensor per instructions on this site and still the same issue, though it has lessened some.

Symptoms: intermittent stalling at stop signs/red lights, power seems to be "drained/pulling" when I press the brake/turn on heat or radio, doesn't accelerate from a dead stop with normal power.

Codes: P0115, P0125, P0325, P0443

I just bought the scanner that's why I pulled the codes after the MAF sensor cleaning, not that the MAF snesor cleaning would have done any harm

Based on Pmohr's site (http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/) this is what the codes seem to mean

P0115-Engine Coolant Temp Sensor : Check the sensor connectors/harness and the sensor

P0125-Engine Coolant Temp Sensor : Check the sensor connectors/harness and the sensor and then thermostat

P0325-Knock Sensor: Check knock sensor connectors/harness and then knock sensor

P0443-EVAP Canister Purge Cut Switch/Valve: Check connectors/harness and then Canister Control Solenoid Valve

So needless to say its blowing alot of codes. I'm just curious on the thoughts/opinions of those on the bored regarding fixing the stalling problem.

1. Is it possible that these codes are all related? Obviously P0115 and P0125 are, but not sure if there is a relationship between all 4.
2. Which one should I start with, seems to me I should start with the Engine Coolant Temp sensor since it seems easy, then the EVAP canister and last the knock sensor. I'm just basing that on everyone on here saying the knock sensor is a pain to get to.
3. How bad does this look. Is it worth putting time and eventually $$$ for these items into a 1995 Max.
4. Is it worth it to test the Battery/Starter/Alternator for the pulling issues? I know most will say go to Autozone but in Philly when you ask them to help or even just give you a multimeter you get the same level of help you would at the DMV....wish I was near a suburban Autozone like back home :-)

Thanks all, I'll keep you up to date as I begin destroying/fixing my car. Pray for warm weather in Philly so this doesn't suck too much.

Ryan

TLMNICK

iTrader: (1)

From what you have written above, I think your biggest issue lies in your electrical system....mainly your grounds, and possibly the positive battery terminal.

Take both battery terminals off and inspect the inside (the side that touches the battery terminal itself)....if there is corrosion buildup, then clean it off. It should be a bright silver or gold color. Apart from that, make sure that you have proper grounds going from the battery to the engine, and from the engine to the body. You probably wont be able to actually see your factory grounds....but I'd be willing to bet they have lots of corrosion on them.

None of the codes above will cause the car to stall.....but the engine coolant temp sensor could make it difficult to start the car sometimes.

rdw72777

The battery and starter were both replaced when I bought back in 2007 so I'll check those.

The car starts normally except right after it stalls it is very hard to start which is why I wondered about the alternator. I think I need to get a multimeter to check some things out starting with the main electrical but also testing some of the sensor the codes are tripping....

I've also been reading some on ehre about similar problems and hearing a lot of issues about coil packs. I got a pretty awesome little Maxima at a u-pull-it in south philly so I'm gonna pull some coil pakcs off and see if swapping som ein and out (as per directions in some other posts) will cause any changes.

Thansk for the help, I'll report back tomorrow.

Feldman

iTrader: (1)

it is way cheaper to replace a handful of sensors then to buy a new car. Even if you are going to sell the car i would bet you can get a bunch more money if you fix these relatively minor issues.

I agree with TLMNICK, check/clean your battery terminals and grounds.

Knock sensor will retard your timing, killing your gas mileage and performance. It's not too tough to do. I did it on my friends 96.

The rest should relatively easy, check/clean plugs but more than likely you will need to change some sensors

asand1

iTrader: (1)

On most cars, coolant temp will cause stalling and hard starting as well as very poor acceration. Imagine driving around with a carburetor fully choked.

The knock sensor will cause sluggish ecceration and if you have federal emissions changing it is VERY easy.

1992maximase30

on my 3rd gen there was build-up in the coolant temp harness.
it caused hard starting. high idle. and colling fans on high.

i have an evap code on my 4th gen though too. the knock sensor is whats causeing your sluggish performance.

i guess you can say the coolant temp too.

imo, i think it's worth it.

rdw72777

It really sounds like from what Ive read on the ORG tonight this coolant temp sensor thing could be it.

Odds are I'll replace a bunch of different things since I do have a nice part-out car in the junkyards. I hope it has a good coolant temp sensor, but if not even a new one isnt too much $$$$. I do need to buy a good wrench set though, I've been using acheap one for a while but the coolant sensor apparently has a 19mm, and I dont have a wrench that size in my cheapy set

And dont worry, I wasn't going to buy a new car, just another used Maxima lol.

rdw72777

3 front coils, 2 rear coils, and the engine coolant sensor at the parts yard today. Lost my ratchet adaptor and broke the ratchet head on the 3rd rear coil so I bought a new cheap ratchet set too. Tomorrow should be a good day if these 2 items indeed are the fixes. Going to try and test the temp sensor tonight since I got a brand new multimeter too.

Leo_Koneval

iTrader: (4)

Doesn't random stalls and sudden restarts, mean that your ignition switch is starting to fail?

I remembered reading somewhere that if your car suddenly turns off and then restarts itself while driving then its a sign of a bad ignition switch.

rdw72777

Leo, what you say might be true, but my car doesn't have the automatic re-starts. Its only stalled while in motion once ever, and then I just pulled over thrrew into park and restrated myself.

It usally dies waiting at a stop sign and then I again just throw into Park and then restart.

rdw72777

So I put in the "new" Engine Coolant Temp sensor from the junkyard after testing it against the one in my car current;y. Bth had the same resistance at cool and med temps (I used the water test from the FSM on page EC 227) but the junkyard had the better ohms at high temps than what was in my car.

So after this fix, I still have the P0325 (Knock Sensor) and P0443 (EVAP Canister Purge Cut Switch/Valve) codes popping up, but the P0115 and P0125 (both the coolant temp sensor) seem to be gone and my car didnt stall during a test this afternoon.

However, got a new code, a P0400 which seems to be EGR system airflow is too high or too low (I love that). Any thoughts on how this sprang up after the coolant temp sensor install? Could I have hit something?

I'm off to investigate on my own, just curious if anyone had experienced this.

1992maximase30

from what i've read certain car's ecu can hold up to a certain amount of codes.
then again...i think one of the egr hoses is around in the same area where the ect sensor is.
a hose probably got cut or disconnected.

i'm glad you fixed your stalling problem.

the knock sensor if you don't have time to replace it...there's a way to bypass the sensor, by using a resistor.

vqmaxman

I would check the MAF if the car stumbles again. To test the MAF out try to rev the car in P or N past 3,500 RPMS,or a WOT launch from a stop and the car should shut off or die slowly, to find out If the MAF was going bad, the MAF would not rev past 3,500 RPMS and or shut off the car instantly, when your coming or going from a stop without the RPMS passing the 3,500 mark than that's your MAF. The starting can be the MAF being dirty but again, If the MAF was really bad it would do all the things that I have mentioned. The ECTS would cause the car to give you a hard starting and stalling out problems once the car has reached It's normal temp.

1991tsi

iTrader: (2)

My car is exhibiting these similar symptoms. Its a manual, will stall upon returning to idle (whether stopped, or coasting) and occasionally buck during gentle driving like its trying to stall. Otherwise it runs fine and has normal power, which is strange and indicates its really an intermittent issue... electrical, fuel, etc.

Anyway, I noticed my IACV was making a strange rhythmic sound at idle, and I plan to change it out with a spare that I have. Can anyone tell me if a metallic click/clunk from the IACV is normal? I hypothesize that if the IACV is getting stuck or in the wrong position it could cause the car to stall, and then be hard to re-start....

crazyrodent

I need to replace my ects as well. Should I replace it with a Nissan part or will one from the parts store be sufficient?

1991tsi

iTrader: (2)

rdw72777 , any improvement in the stalling after replacing the ETCS?...

tonyinclearwater

I read the entire thread. It sounded like the coolant temp sensor fixed your problem.

Did that in fact fis your stalling problems?

addanis01

think itis time for an upgrade ....that 2010 maxima looking real good

Dlminny

iTrader: (1)

2010 looks VERY good lol

mikeg75

rdw72777 and others in this thread, I have a 95 Max 'SE with similar issues such as intermittent stalling when coming to a stop and random drops in RPMs when on the highway. It seems worse when the gas tank is less than full. My car has been great for the last couple years until recently. The last time we had major work done, 2 1/2 years ago, 2 fuel injectors were replaced and it ran fine for a while. I stopped taking it to that mechanic because it cost ~$1300 and I didn't think the $1300 fuel injectors were really the root cause. Unfortunately, the CEL code came back on shortly after that $1300 but the car continued to run fine, so I didn't worry much about it.

This fall, the car started having hesitation issues when it started getting cold, and it died completely one night and we had it towed to my neighbor's garage. He replaced the fuel pump but that hasn't resolved the issue completely.

The CEL has now been on consistently for about 2 years. My mechanic is my neighbor who is Vietnamese and isn't a ballbuster when inspecting my car (e.g. passes it and uses the old emissions test rather than trying to fix all ECU codes like my old mechanic), but whom I can't discuss at length car issues because of language issues.

I haven't done any maintenance to the car myself but I'm not opposed to it. I'm also in S. Philly and would like to touch base with someone local who might be able to help me diagnose and fix these issues myself, if possible. My neighhor (mechanic) is very cool - he checked the plugs for me last week and gave the car back with no charge, telling me the car ran fine while he had it and that my platinum plugs still look fine. I want to resolve the stalling issue without spending a ton of money though, and I think the mechanic will only experience it if he has the car a while, and he generally doesn't keep it long.

I guess the first thing I should do is decide if I want to try to replace the Engine Coolant Temp sensor like rdw72777 did. I also read in another thread on this site that a $15 hose that may have a crack in it could be the issue since it only started happening once it got cold. Does anyone have any thoughts on that? We took this car on from Philly to NC 3 months ago without an issue, so something related to the cold, seems to be issue.

s13silvia2761

The egr code could be caused by EGR pipe being clogged up from carbon buildup since your car may have been running rich for an excess amount of time due to the bad ECT it could have been a side effect. Another is check the vaccum hoses going to the EGR diaphragm and EGR transducer valve as if one of these were disconnected or ripped it would trip the same code.

Knock sensor - it needs power and a ground to it for diagnostic purposes check the simple stuff first before it replacing it. its a very simple sensor only two wires so just use simple process of elimination.

Evap purge solenoid. I believe this is located on the intake manifold if you have a stepper type motor. check the simple stuff like powers and grounds and signal make sure wiring harness has no opens or shorts. Another thing is the valve can also build up carbon so inspect it and clean it erase the codes and see if it comes back

rdw72777

For those of you who have asked, the changing of the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor (ECTS) has 100% eliminated any issues I have with stalling at stop signs or lights. It was an old one of a 1995 max at a junk yard that I pulled myself.

While I would rule out cleaning the MAF/IACV/TB/EGR tube I will say that replacing the ECTS was way quicker than the steps it looked like would be needed to do all of that cleaning. I am a complete novice who was out of work this year and learned to do the ECTS from the ORG and the manuals and the actual process took less than 30 minutes.

I have other issues (belts squealing, possubly the alternator on a slow deaht march, the trouble codes I haven't gotten around too, etc) but the ECTS fixed the immediate problem.

rdw72777

Mikeg,

As for your issues, it might help us all if you listed which trouble codes your check engine light is putting out. Have you tried clearing them and seeing if they all come back (and are the same ones)

I'm up int he fairmount section of Philly and have a cheap code reader that spits out codes, clears them but does little else. But its enough to get the codes and do research online and can clear the codes so you can drive your car and see if it comes back.

From my reply above, you can see that the ECTS fixed my problem, though who knows if its really your problem yet. I have a nice little Maxima in one of South Philly scrap yards that is pretty untouched so if $$$'s an issue when you figure out what needs to be fixed I could help you with some cheap parts...though I have the ECTS already lol.

Reply back or PM if you wanna meet and I can pulls your codes...its step 1 in my book.

mikeg75

rdw72777,

Thanks for your reply and your offer to help. I bought myself a code-reader at Autozone this week and I checked the codes. Only one code came up, to my surprise. It was a P1400 - EGR Solinoid valve.

I have been reading up in my Haynes manual and on the .org and other sites to see whether replacing that valve without doing anything else makes sense, since I'm a total noob. I am on the verge of ordering the part because I go back to school in a week and I'm going to start being really busy again.

I found another thread on here where the guy replaced the EGR Solinoid b/c of a P1400 code, and it resolved his rough idle sound and hesitation/stall issues, which seems to be what's going on with my car. The more I read up on it though, the more I realize it could be so many things.

Is the ECTS sensor inexpensive and easy to replace? Maybe I'll try that one too.

It's so frickin cold out that I'm not sure I'm going to do anything until it gets warmer. Luckily, the car runs pretty well despite the stall issue that seems to come up once it gets warmed up.

I have an exhaust system that a Nissan dealer told me 4 years ago needed a new mid-pipe and my dad's mechanic told me several times was on the verge of needing a new muffler (when I used to take it to him for inspections and routine oil changes). I wonder whether the exhaust system issues are impacting the EGR sensor and that system as well.

Due to time constraints I'm thinking I'll order the part online. I'll post back once I've been able to get a new EGR Solinoid part and try replacing it (assuming the weather cooperates).

Thanks again!

rdw72777

ECTS is cheap I believe (again i found a used one) I think i herd like $25 from someone who bought one new. And yes, very easy. You need to remove some things to get at it but its simple and can be done quickly with very basic tools.

I won't lie, I have no idea bout the EGR solinoid fix. But I will say this, if it stalls nly after the car warms up, it sounds just like my issue. I don't know how warming up would cause the EGR solinoid to cause stalling...

Also, for parts, don't forget to check out the classifieds on here. Much cheaper than most any online site.

As for changing the ECTS, check out this video, its as easy as this (the guy doing the vid is an ORG member):

http://www.youtube.com/user/boredmde...13/-j9MNH8Ukpw

mikeg75

rdw72777 - After replacing the EGR solenoid myself, and then having my mechanic put the ECTS in, since I couldn't do it myself (luckily he didn't charge me), I still have a stall.

I ordered a new MAF sensor ($95 ebay supposedly brand new OEM Nissan part) and am waiting for its arrival to try putting it on myself.

Just wanted to let you know the ECTS didn't do the trick. I have noticed the idle being higher since it was replaced though I don't know why that would be. Anyhow, hopefully when my part arrives and I put it in, I'll be able to say that the stall issue is resolved.

Do I have to disconnect the battery terminals to switch out my MAF? Thanks.

rdw72777

Well sorry the ECTS didn't work. It sounds, from all of my reading, that MAF cleaning/replacement works quite bit for people with similar symptoms.

Did you try cleaning the MAF? That is pretty quick to do, I did it myself first (didn't work for me). Of course if you already ordered a new one it might be a moot point.

To answer your question, I didnt unhook the battery but i forget if i was supposed to or not. There are a couple good articles on here about MAF cleaning (I attached the links below) and the steps would be the same for replacement (except putting in the new one rather than the one you cleaned).

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/H...-MAF_80603.htm
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...g-dummies.html


Let me know how it goes. Also, its quick and easy if you were concerned. At least the weather in Philly has improved, makes doing this outdoors more "fun."

mikeg75

It's too early to tell but since putting the new $95 MAF last night and driving for an hour around Philly (a lot of stop and go), and then driving this morning (stop and go), it has not stalled and it seems to have made a difference.

Now the car seems to have a solid RPM until its warm and then it putters a little bit, rather than having an idle that was unsteady and stalled a lot. Once it warms up, the RPMs still drop a little bit after taking foot off the throttle, or when keeping the throttle steady, but at least it doesn't seem to be stalling now.

I am now wondering if it is worth it to have my intake manifold cleaned and resealed, since the gasket is really dirty and there seems to be a small wet spot. I would love to try to do it myself if I had time but I'm back in school time is extremely tight right now.

I did some research on how the EGR works and learned that without exhaust gas going back into the intake, the combustion would be more intense. Could that have caused a small intake leak at the manifold? I also wonder how dangerous it is to drive around with a dirty intake that may have a small leak.

I called Cherry Hill Nissan and they quoted me $715 to clean and reinstall the intake manifold. That seems like a really high number.

Is this something that can be done fairly easily by any mechanic and what is a reasonable price? Thanks for any replies.

rdw72777

Mikeg, sorry, I've been away a while as my computer died, finally got a new one. Did you get the manifold cleaning. It did sound ridiculously high, but I'm not sure how willing I'd be to put $715 into my Max for any part really.

How's it been running over the last month?

mikeg75

Hey rdw72777 - Thanks for following up. The car has been running great since the MAF replacement.

I'm not going to have the dealer do that work because my regular mechanic said he would do the front and back valve cover gaskets and the intake manifold, all for $250. I don't think I need it afterall though, since the car has been riding fine.

The gas mileage has been around 16 mpg, and the car idles a little high, but other than that, it's pretty solid. One of these days, I'm going to adjust the idle via the screw on top of the Idle Air Control Valve (?), and see if that fixes the high idle.

Thanks again for your help.

luke95gxe

iTrader: (4)

that screw will change the idle

captchaos

Hey man I am in South Jersey and could use a good mechanic for my 1996 Max. It won't go past 2000 rpm's in any gear (I have a 5 spd) and I think I am on to the issue after reading for several hours on here but I could probably use some fixes on some of the more inexpensive parts too. I have owned my 1996 Max since 1998 and have never replaced the Knock Sensor, the ECTS, or anything else. I am probably losing major power along the way. Lemme know if you want to meet up some time soon!

captchaos

Did you ever replace the Knock Sensor?

tampamax

Pretty sure everybody on this site will agree that is you can't rev past 2k its a faulty MAF, or MAF connector.

EsQueue

iTrader: (2)

I guess that everyone should reconsider. A ecu reset will not phase a MAF issue and it did in his case. The car is going into limp mode from all the codes that he had.

monty280

I have a 99 maxima having similar issues with hesitation at stop lights/signs. I replaced the Coolant Temperature sensor and still having the issue. I did notice that when I removed the CTS no coolant bubbled up or came out of the opening. Is this normal? Per some of the how-to's they state fluid will leak or come out, so I'm learning towards it not being.

Blassmasta

Is the car overheating? I ask this 'cause you mentioned coolant temp sensor and the computer SHOULD kill spark when the temp gets to a certain preset value as a way to protect the motor from damage. what's the temp gauge doing?

rdw72777

Monty280, check your coolant levels. if they are fine, then I'd expect some coolant to at least be seen when you remove the sensor. To me just a few drops came out but you should see it sitting there.

If there's no coolant there, then I don't know what exactly the coolant temp sensor would do. But something does sound a bit off....

monty280

Thanks for the reply, I took my car to get my coolant flushed and it threw a code for cylinder #5 misfire. So they cleared the code and the car was still acting the same. Bought an ignition coil and replaced the one for cylinder #5 no more rodeo at the stoplights. I'm crossing my fingers as I may have finally found the problem.

spencerleeb

Buy a new one, I bought a 97' SE for $1900!