Livermoron

Updated 1/19/10 - For anyone reading this after a search and looking for answers - the P1320 was being triggered by two bad coils. Checking between pin #1 and the spark plug contact point with an ohm meter showed occasional (moving the coil around as I held the leads was enough to short/not short) continuity where none should exist. Swapped with units that didn't have the continuity and CEL is staying off with no new events in the memory. I guess it was just coincidence after all.


So I finished up my clutch install last night. Started it up and drove out of the garage and up and down the street a few times. Clutch works good - although I am babying it for a couple hundred miles. I may have started it up again last night - but can't remember. Anyway, this morning when I started it up the cel stayed lit. I drove around doing some shopping - on/off about 5 times. When I got home I checked the codes - P1320 (ignition related), P0325 (knock sensor), and P0705 (pnp something or other - odd because it sounds like its applicable to an AT and I have an MT). I cleared the codes and started it back up - no cel but P1320 got stored right away. Then P0325 again. Cleared and started 3 more times with the sames results. No P0705 came up again. The car was running fine before the clutch job and seems to be running fine now - except for the codes. Any thoughts on what I could have done during the clutch to make this happen? The battery was removed 1st and installed last.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

P1320 is your crank sensor,you probably knocked into it when reinstalling the trans. hopefully you didn't do any damage to the harness or just forgot to plug it back in.

Livermoron

Can't say for certain I know where the crank case sensor is - are you referring to sensor right under the crank pulley? That wasn't touched during the install. I follow the leads from that around the corner to another plug. This one I could see possibly being disturbed when the passenger axle was removed/installed - but is that a sensor?

I pulled all the plumbing pre-throttle body and checked all the connections I could see. Followed the knock sensor cabling too - nothing was amiss.

Lets say I messed up the crank sensor - is that connected some way with the knock sensor?

Also, from what I've read the P1320 should come with some kind of drivability/miss fire issue - but the car runs fine.

s13silvia2761

The crank shaft position sensor is on the transmission and runs off an extra set of teeth on the flywheel. If you had this unplugged the car probably wouldnt start. but check it anyways if it is loose. also make sure you didnt bent any teeth on the flywheel

As for the knock sensor i dont know how you could have messed with it because it is hidden underneath the intake manifold. erase it and see if it pops up.

Livermoron

OK, since I don't have a manual can you be more specific about the crank sensor location? Using the starter as a reference point?

I've cleared the codes half a dozen times (after rechecking, plugging and unplugging, etc.) and they both (1320 and 0325) come back. I just read on the KS install thread that some codes will make the KS code come up too for unknown reasons - ghost code was the term. I'm hoping that is the case here. BTW - I replaced the KS on my previous 95 and agree that screwing it up would be virtually impossible except for a plug somewhere.

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I would recommend downloading a copy of the FSM, it may be lacking in lots of ways, but component location is not one of them

Livermoron

Whoa! I didn't know that was out there - big help, thanks!

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

I have a copy of 1995 and 1996 max on my computer I probably also have 96 and 98 I30 as well. they are out there, and I think there is a link somewhere in the stickies to them.

Livermoron

No, no - what I meant was I found the link, down loaded it, and thought it would definitely help when I get home tonight. Thanks though

Jriv815

The Crankshaft Position Sensor is definately on the FRONT side of the engine. Either A/T or M/T. I had to replace it when my harmonic balancer broke.

Jriv815

The crank position sensor is definately on the front side of the engine. i had to replace mine when my harmonic balancer broke

internetautomar

iTrader: (30)

there are 2 crank sensors.
the front one is the reference sensor
the rear is just plain old crank

kymera_gr7

I have a Haynes manual and can't find anything on the crank sensor. I have the same famous P1320 code and would like to rectify it if possible. Also may have bad ignition coils...

bryan163

iTrader: (2)

The crank sensor you're looking for is in the spot indicated in red. It sits between the engine block and the bell housing. It could easily be damaged when the tranny and block come together if you were not aware of it.

Livermoron

Update - replaced the KS last night. Was cracked so I figure it was bad all along and not triggering the CEL.

I also checked the resistance on the condenser - was OK. Rotated known good coils through both banks - still get the P1320 code - I cleared the code before each start with the changed coil.

Another question (now that I've been reading up on this) - why did someone say the P1320 code was my crank position sensor (POS)? The FSM for P1320 doesn't even mention the POS. It does mention the REF (the one in front) but says there should be accompanying codes, right?

From all the posts I've read after googling this I haven't seen one that ends with "It turns out my problem was XXXX and now it is fixed".

AND now my slave cylinder is leaking - should have changed it when everything was out, I know.

smalltownrp830

i got the same codes ...replaced ks and cranksensor in front b harmonic sensor and no change....ANY UPDATE

floydthedog

I just have a constant 1320 that I can't get to go away, no matter what I replace. I'm done buying coils, the car runs fine. I imagine my problem could be the rear crankshaft position sensor, although I'm pretty sure I replaced that when I replaced every other sensor on the car trying to clear this code. I'm to the point where I believe it is either a wiring harness or ECU issue. I read somewhere that someone took apart their ECU and re-soldered the contact points and had success. Anyway, my car is getting close to 200,000 and I'm not up for replacing the wiring harness or digging the ECU out to try the other.

I've sort of refined how to get the light to stay off long enough and get the systems indicators ready to pass my smog check. I just live with the CEL and 1320.

Robert Todd

I have a 95 maxima replaced knock sensor 6 month ago and now I got P0325 and P1320 and cylinder 5 is skiping changed coil.Still doing the same thing

P0tter7

iTrader: (2)

wat dose the crank sensor read off of? i m converting my car to 5 speed and i took the tranny out lastnight and he auto flywheel has 2 sets on teeth.
1 set of teeth are smaller and closer to the engine(the crank sensor reads off of that)
2 set is for the starter to start the motor
well the new flywheel i got for my manual tranny only has one set of teeth for the starter not the ones for the crank sensor. i called nisan and they told me that itis one assembly. cany anyone helpp me. im stuck and its my car to get me back and forth to work. text me if you can help thank youuu. 609-442-7061