4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999) Visit the 4th Generation forum to ask specific questions or find out more about the 4th Generation Maxima.

Problem With Shock Replacement!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-21-2009 | 01:58 PM
  #1  
kelster23's Avatar
Thread Starter
Member
 
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 31
Problem With Shock Replacement!

I swapped out the front struts without problem and man what a difference in the ride.

Now the issues. I have searched with no luck...

I went to the rear today to replace the shocks. No problem getting one out, but once out, I started having problems. The center nut that holds the components together (spring on the shock, boot/bumpstop, top spring plate, etc.) is giving me a hard time. When I try to turn it with a wrench, the entire piston/rod (the polished part) of the shock turns with it. There's nowhere on that rod to grab to hold it tight enough to try and then turn the nut. The base/core (the painted part the pistion goes into) is fine and doesnt turn. I'm at a loss. Any ideas?
Old 12-21-2009 | 02:18 PM
  #2  
deezo's Avatar
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 14,287
From: FV, NC
Originally Posted by kelster23
I swapped out the front struts without problem and man what a difference in the ride.

Now the issues. I have searched with no luck...

I went to the rear today to replace the shocks. No problem getting one out, but once out, I started having problems. The center nut that holds the components together (spring on the shock, boot/bumpstop, top spring plate, etc.) is giving me a hard time. When I try to turn it with a wrench, the entire piston/rod (the polished part) of the shock turns with it. There's nowhere on that rod to grab to hold it tight enough to try and then turn the nut. The base/core (the painted part the pistion goes into) is fine and doesnt turn. I'm at a loss. Any ideas?
You can usually get it off with an impact wrench, electric or air. This is without using something to grip the piston. If worse comes to worse, they using grips but over the teeth with some type of cloth or thick rubber.
Old 12-21-2009 | 05:54 PM
  #3  
JSutter's Avatar
I'm nutty for Nissans
iTrader: (46)
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 10,378
From: Maine
Get a 14mm ratcheting wrench on the nut. Hold the piston with an adjustable wrench at the tip, where its flat.
Old 12-21-2009 | 05:59 PM
  #4  
Nopike's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 2,269
If the other suggestions fail cut the nut off with a dremel tool.
Old 12-22-2009 | 05:06 AM
  #5  
Rocky Rococco's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 18
From: Batesville, IN
Vice grips will bite into the polished shaft of the old shock - no reason to be kind there as you are disassembling the old shock. You should be able to run the nut onto the new shock without much ado with an impact wrench - be sure the spring is compressed sufficiently that you aren't working against it.
Old 12-22-2009 | 07:16 AM
  #6  
Reece616's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 403
From: Connecticut
When I did mine I had the same problem.
What I ended up doing was putting everything together, and putting it in place, hand thread the nut onto the rod as good as i could, then put a ratcheting wrench onto the nut. If you try to turn it, the whole rod would spin like you said... so i got some vise grips and locked them onto the top of the piston rod (where its flat, you dont want to damage the threads) and then used the ratcheting wrench to tighten. The vise grips spun until they hit some metal inside the trunk and then held tight so i could finish the job.
Hope that helps... otherwise i think air tools is the way to go. I did it with the front and it was great.
Old 12-22-2009 | 08:55 AM
  #7  
njmaxseltd's Avatar
Member who somehow became The President of The SE-L Club
iTrader: (19)
 
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 16,033
Use the vice grips on the shock shaft, the old shock is being tossed anyway.

BTW - You DO NOT need a spring compressor to take the rears apart. They don't pop much at all. You will need to compress them a little to get them back on.
Old 12-22-2009 | 09:41 AM
  #8  
ThreePointO's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 487
From: Glastonbury, ct
sawzall
Old 01-20-2010 | 12:41 AM
  #9  
iflossdaily's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 38
From: Portland, OR
Originally Posted by njmaxseltd
BTW - You DO NOT need a spring compressor to take the rears apart. They don't pop much at all. You will need to compress them a little to get them back on.
I just did my rears this weekend and the mounts and bushings "sprang" out and almost hit me in the face when I removed the center nut. If my face had been a few inches to the left, it would have certainly been strong enough to break some teeth. I would recommend the spring compressors for safety.
Old 01-20-2010 | 08:18 AM
  #10  
Snypa's Avatar
Senior Member
iTrader: (35)
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 7,396
From: I-75 4th_Laud
very lucky^.Spring compressor is always the way.However, why did you unbolt facing your face? What about it laying flat on the ground and then unbolting?
Old 02-02-2010 | 12:23 AM
  #11  
iflossdaily's Avatar
Member
 
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 38
From: Portland, OR
Originally Posted by Snypa
very lucky^.Spring compressor is always the way.However, why did you unbolt facing your face? What about it laying flat on the ground and then unbolting?
They were rusted/fused tight, and stupidly, I lifted them up to inspect them. I got real lucky.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Matt93SE
Maximas for Sale / Wanted
33
05-24-2019 03:58 PM
vingodine
5th Generation Classifieds (2000-2003)
45
05-21-2016 01:46 PM
homeyclaus
Maximas for Sale / Wanted
1
09-03-2015 07:15 PM
seesole
7th Generation Maxima (2009-2015)
7
08-26-2015 12:22 PM
kirkhilles
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
2
08-08-2015 11:53 AM




All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:24 AM.