Bad to chirp 2nd gear?
#3
How spirited is "spirited" cause I only chirp into 2nd when I'm really serious... and its usually more than a chirp. Just lag in between shifts and slower on the clutch, that'll be easier on the drivetrain components.
Possibly to your first question.
And yes to your 2nd question.
Possibly to your first question.
And yes to your 2nd question.
Last edited by aackshun; 01-07-2010 at 11:55 PM.
#5
it's not good for it by any means. still doesn't stop most people from doing it (including me) and it probably won't straight up break anything (no guarantees though), more likely just shorten the lifespan of certain components (such as your 2nd gear synchro, clutch, motor mounts if they are still rubber, etc).
#7
That's like asking if it's bad to run your car at 5500 rpms.
Not necessarily bad, but it will put much more than twice as much wear on your engine as running at 2750 rpms.
Are jackrabbit starts bad? I dunno, but I never want to buy a used car from someone who drives like that.
Not necessarily bad, but it will put much more than twice as much wear on your engine as running at 2750 rpms.
Are jackrabbit starts bad? I dunno, but I never want to buy a used car from someone who drives like that.
#9
very true, no matter what kind of clutch kit you decide to put on, you still have to ease it on the gas. I dont really do 1-2 aggressive pulls anymore, if u want to pull to see if a new component has its value, drop it in to 2nd easy and you'll still be able to pull with less stress on your tranny. But pushing your car to hard to much is bad anytime..
#12
it's not good for it by any means. still doesn't stop most people from doing it (including me) and it probably won't straight up break anything (no guarantees though), more likely just shorten the lifespan of certain components (such as your 2nd gear synchro, clutch, motor mounts if they are still rubber, etc).
#13
#14
Is it bad? Well, yeah. It won't do anything for the first hundred times you do it maybe, then your clutch will glaze over, or maybe your tranny will shatter, or maybe you'll sell the car before you notice any negative effects. It's not good on your mounts but it will take years and years to wear out new mounts.
Bottom line, you can drive a car hard and it'll be fine for awhile, but in general, eventually it will break, and at the very least you will experience accelerated wear.
Bottom line, you can drive a car hard and it'll be fine for awhile, but in general, eventually it will break, and at the very least you will experience accelerated wear.
#16
#17
dude its a maxima..not a viper or corvette anything wth 300+ base hp lol...if you wanna do some "spirited driving" go to the tracks lol
#18
#19
I personally hate 4th gen trannys, I blew 3 trannys when I had a de-k( 1 the diff went and the 2 I killed 2nd and 3rd gear) then I killed 2 more with the 3.5 (1 was because lack of fluid due to a leaking passenger axle seal and the 2nd I stripped 2nd) and to think the car is currently going turbo as we speak lol but I still have that 1 so I plan on gyetting par 2nd and 3rd gear with a phantom grip lsd
#20
I personally hate 4th gen trannys, I blew 3 trannys when I had a de-k( 1 the diff went and the 2 I killed 2nd and 3rd gear) then I killed 2 more with the 3.5 (1 was because lack of fluid due to a leaking passenger axle seal and the 2nd I stripped 2nd) and to think the car is currently going turbo as we speak lol but I still have that 1 so I plan on gyetting par 2nd and 3rd gear with a phantom grip lsd
#21
I personally hate 4th gen trannys, I blew 3 trannys when I had a de-k( 1 the diff went and the 2 I killed 2nd and 3rd gear) then I killed 2 more with the 3.5 (1 was because lack of fluid due to a leaking passenger axle seal and the 2nd I stripped 2nd) and to think the car is currently going turbo as we speak lol but I still have that 1 so I plan on gyetting par 2nd and 3rd gear with a phantom grip lsd
I don't know what you're doing to your transmissions to break that many at that low of a power level but that's another discussion.
About the swap you are planning - that won't work without additional parts or a different custom input shaft than PAR already has available. to get 2nd gear you have to get 1st gear because 1st and 2nd are all a part of the input shaft which in turn necessitates getting 3rd and 4th because PAR designed their input shaft for use with needle bearings under 3rd and 4th meaning stock 3rd and 4th won't work on their input shaft (I know you said you planned on 3rd, but 4th would be required too unless you can convince them to make yet ANOTHER version of their input shaft). so you're looking at like $3-4K (haven't looked at the exchange rate recently, but it used to be about $4400 for 1st-4th). plus labor if you can't build the trans yourself.
just letting you know.
#22
I'm OP so I can jack my own thread
Is it bad to wait at the lights (for example) with the clutch in? you know when you think its about to go green so clutch in and change into first to find it hasn't changed yet and don't want to have to change back to netural - I figure it will wear the throw out bearng more? but not the clutch because thats disengaged
Is it bad to wait at the lights (for example) with the clutch in? you know when you think its about to go green so clutch in and change into first to find it hasn't changed yet and don't want to have to change back to netural - I figure it will wear the throw out bearng more? but not the clutch because thats disengaged
#23
I'm OP so I can jack my own thread
Is it bad to wait at the lights (for example) with the clutch in? you know when you think its about to go green so clutch in and change into first to find it hasn't changed yet and don't want to have to change back to netural - I figure it will wear the throw out bearng more? but not the clutch because thats disengaged
Is it bad to wait at the lights (for example) with the clutch in? you know when you think its about to go green so clutch in and change into first to find it hasn't changed yet and don't want to have to change back to netural - I figure it will wear the throw out bearng more? but not the clutch because thats disengaged
What is bad is if you are at a red light, and you want to be "fast off the line" when it turns green. Those folks are favorite targets of people who like to run late yellow lights, and get T-boned on a frequent basis.
#24
The lights are designed in such a way that the moving direction gets red light before the waiting direction gets green...So you can get T-boned from someone cracking throught the red light (not the yellow one)
#25
I'm OP so I can jack my own thread
Is it bad to wait at the lights (for example) with the clutch in? you know when you think its about to go green so clutch in and change into first to find it hasn't changed yet and don't want to have to change back to netural - I figure it will wear the throw out bearng more? but not the clutch because thats disengaged
Is it bad to wait at the lights (for example) with the clutch in? you know when you think its about to go green so clutch in and change into first to find it hasn't changed yet and don't want to have to change back to netural - I figure it will wear the throw out bearng more? but not the clutch because thats disengaged
#26
bro, honestly, just drive it like you drive it and it should be fine..if something messes up at least you'll figure out that it was cause you were to hard on the tranny, if it doesn't then keep letting it chirp... your driving standards are different from everyone on here... drive your car the way you enjoy it and however safe you think you should...
I chirp 2nd too sometimes, its no surprise and oh yea!! our cars can be faster than vipers and corvettes...
I chirp 2nd too sometimes, its no surprise and oh yea!! our cars can be faster than vipers and corvettes...
#27
In a stock transmission with bearings in new condition, the shock load of a "chirp" can strip the gears. 3rd in particular likes to shear it's teeth.
Another thing people don't often consider is how you drop the clutch in when it doesn't chirp. This can actually transmit more load through the drivetrain than when the tires get spinning and relieve the torque. High capacity clutches with pucks in particular engage harshly and transmit much higher shock loads to the drivetrain.
I've chirped my tires. Especially in poor traction conditions on cold tires. But you have to be realistic and understand that driving a passenger car hard will unavoidably increase wear and risk of sudden breakage.
**(Cryo is another thing altogether, but when the engineering eggheads test cryo processes for strength improvement, they have found it is very specific to the application. A particular starting material, a particular cold quench process including temperature, stages, and timing, are all critical to reliably getting the same result. The aerospace and racing organizations who are getting improvements with cryo have put a lot of hours and samples into making each application. There is not yet material science theory that allows consistent prediction of the performance of a cryo process. Without significant testing and experimentation, it's unlikely that handing your parts to a cryo treater will make them stronger. I am unaware of anyone who has developed and tested a cryo process that is truly successful with 4th gen Maxima transmission components)
Dave
Last edited by dgeesaman; 01-17-2010 at 06:01 AM.
#28
One kid told me that I needed to learn to drive stick shift because I held the clutch in at a traffic light. Yes it 'wears' the throwout bearing but then again so does starting your car, driving it, shifting gears, going around turns, etc. The throwout bearing should be fine until the clutch disc wears out.
Personally I put the car in neutral and clutch out. It takes but a split second to shift into first and get going, and if you're like me you're paying attention to know when the light is about to go green anyway.
Dave
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