I saw someone have a Air Fuel Ratio gauge that had Light that went left and right of the gauge it went as far as half the gauge I also want to know what u guys recommend on what gauge i should get if i get a 2 or 3 pod piller I have a 95' Automatic with a intake and GReady Exhaust thanks guys

 

Autometer makes a pretty good a/f ratio gauge that will fit in the pillar mounts. Halmeter makes a good meter also, but last time I saw one, it was a rectangular box.

Hope this helps,

Quack2x

 

Thanks for the reply i know they have a gauge version that would fit on the pillers


and if you guys can can you guys tell me how much do they cost thanks

 

i checked out Autometer.com found the gauges it says that it have to have a 0-5 VDC on the o2 sensor if u guys know hit me up with a post thanks

 

Autometer a/f is crap, so are all the other cheep a/f gauges.

Only the Tomei or Greedy actually work correctly.

Do a search for Tomei, the gready is the same gauge with their name on it.

 

Autometer is just a light show. If you want an easy gauge to hook up and fill some space. Get the autometer. It's cheap and very easy to hook up.

 

Matt I first saw the Tomei A/F on here. I believe Steve (Skimax)posted. Do you know a place to get it for a good price? How much do they go for anyway?

 

i have greddy

 

Tony I dont know where to get it from

I'm and EGT man!

 

sx7 how much was the greaddy

 

greddy air/fuel gauges cost $280.33 that's a lot i want my girl to buy it for x-mas

 

You pay for what you get.

Do you want a pretty dancing light or an acurate a/f ratio gauge?

 

but i heard that autometer is not that bad

 

276

 

I have the Tomei. It was 425 plus tax from AEBS (Advanced Engine Breathing Systems) in San Diego. You can tell exactly how lean/rich you're running cuz' you can read actual numbers. It comes with it's own separate 02 sensor and also all-japanese instructions but install wasn't complicated. Another thing is that it matches well with the SE gauges...black on white during the day and reverse at night...just like the SE gauges =) All in all, I like it a lot.

The autometer is just a light show. It does look pretty cool but I don't think it's a really accurate monitoring tool...but hey, it's only 60 bucks (I think) so you can't beat that; however, if you run (or plan to run) NOS, SC or turbo and monitoring of your AF ratio really matters to you, don't get the autometer.

 

nobobdy have the air/fuel gauge from autometer remember guys i only have a automagic and intake,and exhaust just want a piller cuz it looks nice i guess you can say that i want it for looks but also to help me know what my car's condition is at but i need some advice on what kind of gauges not brand wise that i should get thanks

 

I'm not sure if paying 8 times more is gonna give you a product 8 times better... They all take a voltage from 0-1V and convert it to a light. The gauge can only be as good as your O2 sensor... You can get an expensive 'wideband O2 sensor'...

BTW - if you have the A pillar mounted BOSE tweeters... you will have a problem with the gauge pod...

Heres a picture of the AUTOMETER one...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....&highlight=pod

 

greddy comes with it's own o2 sensor.

 

chunger your right how is it that bad guys unless you guys have some info how much it's off then tell us but buying one that's about the same price of a cat back system is kinda crazy

 

chunger what you have do u have a super charger ? and what kind of paint did u use for the a- piller and how much

 

Enjoy the light show!

 

...and the autometer does not. =) yeah, enjoy the light show.

asianpr - it's sorta like this...say your speedometer consisted of only bars of lights but NO numbers...you could tell if you are going slow or fast, but you wouldn't know your speed. If you're getting an AF meter mainly for looks, then by all means go with the autometer!

 

I thought the whole point was to know if your going lean under boost so you don't burn you engine... Sure... I want to take time looking at NUMBERS rather than have RED LIGHTS warn me...

As for the light show... that's what a switch is for... plus it really isn't that bad.

You haven't convinced me...

Asianpr3082 - Yes I have a Supercharger... and the paint i used was listed in the thread... Fabric/Vinyl Paint from Kragen Auto parts..

 

thanks for the info.....

hey how much did u get your gauge for anywayz

 

I don't know about you, but I also would like to know how lean or rich I am running and tune the fuel setup accordingly. True, the autometer may tell you if you are running rich/lean with the bars of light but unfortunately I've heard/read many stories about the autometer not being too accurate (i.e. showing lean but in actuality running rich).

Even if it was accurate, the autometer has how many bars of light? 12, I guess? And rich, stoich, and lean are each represented by 4 bars each? Since when did stoich supposed to have such a wide range? No thanks, but I'd rather know exactly what my AF ratio is. If it showed that I was running at 14.5 (just a tiny bit lean), I'd up the fuel pressure just a tad accordingly. BTW, I'm not trying to convince YOU. You already have the autometer.

C'mon now...it's not that hard reading numbers. My younger brother can do it. Even if I didn't care what my exact AF ratio was, there's a second needle that's user adjustable. All you do is set it to point to wherever number you please (14.2 in my case). You see where the AF ratio needle is pointing to in reference to that needle and you can INSTANTLY tell how lean/rich you are running.

 

safc

 

Doesn't the SAFC read A/F in some sort of percentage?

 

The autometer a/f guages i have seen look like they are hooked up to the stereo

True, there is no replacement for a wide band O2 sensor but that's more than 8x the cost and where the hell do you put it for daily driving?

The Tomei is not a wide band O2 sensor but it's a much better reading than the autometer. It's not about numbers or lights, it's about accuracy.


My .02 :bow:

 

FYI there are 20 LEDs... each represent 0.05V so you have a range of 0-1V... You could easily figure out the correct Voltage at each LED.

I can't attest to the accuracy of the AUTOMETER cuz I haven't bench tested it. I can't figure the it's too hard to read what signal is being supplied to the ECM. Like I said, unless you are getting a wideband O2 sensor, I don't think having an expensive gauge will give you the full benefits (weakest link concept).

A red light is easier to 'read' than digits when you're concentrating on the road and not the gauge... I prefer to keep my focus on the road.

The Autometer runs about $50 depending on which model. If you've got an extra $400 bucks burning in your wallet... The GReddy/Tomei is good. But I would just buy an Autometer EGT for $100 and pocket the remaining $250 or get a Y-Pipe (oops..already have one )

It boils down to personal choice, I guess

 

The autometer gauge taps into the stock O2 sensor. The stock O2 sensor is not designed to function at a wide range of voltages. It accuracy is only really close at near perfect emissions control A/F ratio. wich is not good for power.

The Tomi/Greddy uses a "near" wide band O2 sensor so it acts more precisely to wide changes in A/F ratio.

I wish Thomas would tell us about when he dyno'd his car at and what his autometer A/F gauge showed?

http://www.extrememotorsports.com/g2cat/afgauge.htm

 

Funtionality wise, it'd probably be Autometer AF then an EGT gauge and then GReddy/Tomei AF. Pricing is in that order, too. Like Brett and Matt said, it's more about accuracy. Unfortunately, the autometer isn't the best. I guess you get what you pay for. I understand that not everyone has a few hundred bucks to spend for a gauge, but it I guess it all depends on how imporant accuracy means to you. I guess for some, the Autometer will suffice.

 

Agreed... I just need to know IF it is running lean during boost

 

or TOO rich.. no sense wasting good power..

 

i'll tell you. even when i was running LEAN, dangerously lean, autometer still smiled at me with green LEDs indicating rich. 3 leds away from yellow still. during the whole run, the fluctuation was only between 2 leds although it ranged from 12 to 14(if i remember correctly). when the wideband O2 sensor readings were plotted out along with the hp/torque, it clearly showed the inaccuracy of the autometer.

what do i get for making your wish come true?