Ever since Michigan hit about 20 degrees and less I've been having starting problems. Coincidence or not, I don't know. Hoping someone else might.

What I know:

Battery, Alternator, and Starter were tested. All are good.
The battery AND alternator are only about a year old.
The starter was rebuilt about 4 months ago, because I kept having a problem where the car wouldn't turn over so I had to smack the starter a few times to get it to turn on. (Solenoid?)

Now, I can still get the car to start. But about a week ago, it wouldn't crank/turn over or anything, I smacked the starter and that didn't do it..sat there for a minute after trying to start it about 5 times...tried to start it one last time and finally it showed signs of life...it kinda went "crank....crank....crank...crank crank crank start!" I also had this problem just the other day after work, same thing happened. And just this morning, it started first try but it was very slow to start.

Sorry, I know that's a really vague and stupid way to describe my problem but as you can probably tell, I know nothing about how this stuff works. I had my step dad test the battery alt and starter like i said and all checked out. Now it would definitely seem like even with my limited knowledge that this is a starter issue...but maybe someone can tell me other wise.

Thanks for your help guys.

 

cold temps huh...might need ECTS (engine coolant temperature sensor)...25 bucks from Autozone. Make sure the car is cold if u decide to replace yurself. I didnt drain coolant when i did mine so when i removed the old one..Coolant started to spew everywhere lol. Had to be quick replacing it. Still spewed a qt or so lol. Jus wipe everything down afterwards to remove coolant and should be fine.

Also check CKPS REF for dirt build up. If its super dirty, jus replace it. U can try cleaning it but its inconclusive whether cleaning it actually helps.

 

See thats the thing, I don't know if it's just coincidence that it isn't starting now that it's cold or if that's really why.

 

add grounds ... definalty start there with adding grounds then check/clean other stuff ECTS, coils plugs, cam sensor, cranks sensor, igniton switch

oh and that starter i had some thing very simliar it turn out, the bolt that gets connected to the battery was really loose i have a lifetime warranty on my starter so i didnt tighen it i just replaced it

 

mine did the same thing did not start in cold weather. i changed the crankshaft position sensor (pos)....

 

ditto grounds. Especially if it's just aged with surface rust and dirt.

 

IGNITION SWITCH

 

my 98 maxima is having start issues also. when i start it in the morning, the car turns over and catches and kinda starts, but right away it dies or sometimes right away it doesn't totally die, but rpm goes down to about 0 then a bit up then 0 then up and then maxima stays started. Also if i press the gas pedal and start it, it starts fine. It starts alright when it's warm only troubles me in the morning. so guys whats the problem.

It was doing this when I bought it 2 months ago, then 2 weeks after buying the car, it gave me a check engine light, the code was for knock sensor and other evap leak code. I replaced the knock sensor and their is no cel for over 2 weeks now. Also friend of mine suggested to change coolant temp sensor, so I did but that didn't help either.

 

Pardon my ignorance but..those of you who suggested adding grounds - could you elaborate? I understand what a ground is but where are you suggesting adding them? And how?

And can anyone explain the Crankshaft Position Switch?

 

there is no need to add any grounds,nissan made the system with adequate grounds already.

a slow crank can be caused by many things...
a bent armature
a bad solenoid
a bad plunger or mechanical binding

check your voltage to the starter terminals..
battery terminal
solenoid/switch terminal
motor terminal
these are located at one end of ur solenoid

also..if you are not receivin enough current when u turn the key,this results to the slow crank you said you have.

Chris

 

when you have a 10+ year old car grounds become rusty instead of tracing all of them down its easier to add more and if you search the fourms youll find that this is an major issue

i added mine from one of the tranny bolts to the neg. terminal read the other posts on here about hard starting and youll see where and how to add grounds

as far as the crank sensor its on the front side between the tranny and block one 10mm bolt and it slides out there is a way to test it youll have to look up the FSM to find out how

 

There are numerous threads on this. Perform a search. Many people swear that it works well. Others don't notice any difference. I added an extra ground, and in my opinion, I think it helped.

 

Don't mean to thread jack but I am having this exact issue too...anyone have some feedback?
Mine starts then dies right away and need to give/hold down the gas yo force the idle to hold ....then she will stay on and idle fine??

 

Those issues are more due to a dirty MAF and TB. If the car is starting and dyin, i dont think it has anything to do with grounding. Altho adding additional grounds wont hurt. Smai swears by them, he the Grounding king!!! lol

Clean the MAF with MAF cleaner and Clean TB. I bet the TB is wicked nasty, which means the MAF has to be dirty too. My car was doin the same as both of yours, then a cleaning and all went away. I opened her up and TB was disgustingly black. U dont have to remove it, in fact unless u are mechanically inclined and have a TB gasket handy, dont remove the TB at all. Jus clean inside as best u can. Any cleaning will make a difference.

 

when you take out the starter, did it looked a little gunked up? if your rear main seal is leaking, then the act of repetative starting might not let the starter to turn as freely as it should, especially in cold weather.
i volunteer in the mountains around here, and iver notived this happens when it gets way below freezing. replaced rear main seal and a new starter, no issues at all.

 

if you're asking me, my starter is clean. and fine.

 

U try removin the ECTS (engine coolant temperature sensor) yet?

Update brotha lol

 

Noooo. It wouldn't be a good idea to do myself lol. I'm just trying to gather a list of possible solutions.

 

I just replaced my starter on my I30.... had exact same set of symptoms. The starter on our cars is kind of weak to begin with so when the solenoid starts to die it doesn't die fast like on other cars. The reason I sugguest this is that I had the exact same problem/solution on my 97 maxima.

The real bugger is, the bench test at autozone etc, doesn't adequately test the solenoid and really doesn't do a great job of checking the current draw on the starter itself. It tests continuity etc, but not much else.

Here's how I went about eliminating the variables (might help your situation, might not).... Connected another vehicle via jumper cables - same weak start and no-start. (tells me that the ignition switch is ok, relays are ok, and that my battery is likely ok). Connected high-cranking amp battery charger (one that allows a quick bump-start current draw) to double check the same test. Same result. That tells me only one other component can be bad... the starter motor/solenoid. The fool-proof test... put in the new starter from Autozone (give or take $140+core)... started like a champ. Total repair time - about 45 minutes... need: a few metric sockets, screwdrivers and pliers to remove a few screws (air box, hose clamps etc) and then a long handled or breaker-bar socket wrench... the starter bolts are kind of a b---h to remove.