I accidentally modified this mans post sorry about that guys!!!!! njmaxseltd

I m really sorry I was trying to post that if your cam sensor is bad then the car wont start.

 

I don't get it.

You accidentally modified njmaxseltd's post?

 

I just realized I never checked either crank sensor, and still don't have a full understanding of how they work.

The question is does the fact that i have spark in all cylinders mean my CKPS's are working? Or can I get spark without it?

Also how should I test the CKPS's?

 

Big D, i thought u been tested those man. CKPS REF senses engine speed. Its on the front of the engine near the pulleys. CKPS POS senses TDC for cylinder 1. THat definielty tells the car to fire. Its near the rear of the engine. they are easy to replace. But idk how to test. And they dont really CEL if not functioning. Its one of those sensors that dont really show up if the car is messing up but will definitely keep yur car from starting.

IDK how to test them. I jus replaced mine cuz the car would take a lil longer to crank than usual. Replaced the CKPS POS and everything was good.

 

lol I got distracted cause of the P0340 code leading me to the CMPS. Plus I thought if I was getting spark that meant the CKPS was working. I'll try to find out how to test it.

 

Jus remove the one on the rear of the engine and inspect it. IF it is completely covered then wipe it off as best u can. Its a electromagnet so u want it clean and not watered or damp.

Altho, there is a greater chance u somehow banged or misaligned the CKPS on the front of the engine. U gotta check both of em.

 

Yeah I checked them both visually, but I just read up a lot in FSM and REF on the front of the engine is the one that finds and reports TDC so I think it is likely the culprit. I know now how to test it and should find out this evening if it's good. I'll test both per FSM and pray that's the problem.

 

You are correct. THe one on the front senses TDC. I replaced the CKPS POS on the rear. U checked them and neither was dirty?? CHeck to make sure voltage signal is goin back to the ECU. dont forget the wire subharnesses and clean their grounds as well.

 

Update:

I'm certain now the timing is off. I was trying to find TDC by turning the crank shaft with a ratchet and after about half a revolution it stopped dead. It's definitely supposed to keep turning, so now I just hope my valves aren't mashed.

We'll be resetting the timing tomorrow and hopefully it will run ok. Updated to follow. Then I can post the rear TC cover o ring walk through complete with a "Don't freaking do this" section and a "Make dang sure you do this" section and of course plenty of pictures. Thanks for all the suggestions and information.

 

We reset the timing this weekend. I am pretty sure I did have it set right before, but when I opened the cover, the firewall-side intake cam sprocket was loose like crazy. I think I set it right but didn’t torque that cam bolt enough so when I cranked it, the rear cams just stayed where they were while the rest did its thing and threw the timing off.

My only worry is when we drained the oil it had fuel, coolant, and oil in it. I am pretty certain the only way for coolant to enter the oil is the water pump seal inside the TC cover, so I replaced the pump and seal. But I don’t know about the fuel. My theory is that, since the timing was off, fuel was being sprayed into open cylinders and it was going strait into the valve covers and draining into the oil. Anybody have bad news for me??? Is the fuel in the oil actually an indicator I mashed or in some other way screwed up my valves???

Thanks, Dan

 

Does it start now? If so how does the engine sound?

The only way to diagnose bent valves is to do a compression test or a cylinder leakdown test.

 

Hehe. I meant to mention that. I realized about 8:30 last night that my battery was dead so I had to leave it at Autozone until i get off work today. Then I'll see how it starts and how it runs.

I have heard mixed opinions about the fuel in the oil.

1-With misfires it is normal for some minute amount of fuel to get into the oil by dripping down the cylinder wall and going back into the crank case. This is especially possible when the engine is always cold because the seals may not be sealed completely until warm. By cranking over and over again for a month while the car is cold, the amount of fuel in the oil could potentially be a lot considering every cylinder misfired every time I cranked for the whole time the car’s been out of commission.

I tend to agree with this theory for 2 reasons. 1) It means my engine may be ok and 2) the physics make sense based on what I have seen of the inside of my engine (and over the past 3 months, that is a lot lol).

2-Because of the seals on the valves (I think they call them rings) there should never be fuel in the oil no mater what unless my valve seals are busted or the valves themselves are damaged.

I tend not to agree with this because I’ve seen the crank case from underneath and the valves from up top and it totally looks like with enough misfires in the cold, fuel would go back down the cylinder walls into the crank case and down into the oil pan.

Any ideas? I don’t have any type of machine to test compression of anything. If I take this to a shop to test compression do people usually charge for that? If so how much and aprox what is involved?

 

you can rent a compression tool from autozone they have a loaner tool program

 

compression test prolly cost as much as diagnositc test...50 bucks

yo man, the battery died?? Arhg!! we all teeming with anticipation lol. THis has been the longest no-start in the history of the org. Even if we gotta drop a new engine in that b*tch, we gonna get that car to start lol!!!!

Make sure to change the oil before u start it too. I agree with ur theory posted above.

 

You think you are frustrated.. Now imagine me when I turned the key! I almost had to wash my mouth out. If I wasn't so dang tired from working on the thing, I would have probably hurt something... or myself.

My previous formula for start was Start=Proper Timing(Fuel+Air+Spark). Now it's:

+ + = Start



Engine swap still to be determined lol.

Your $0.02 makes it 4 to 1 that my valves may be ok. I like those odds.

I should get the battery in about 6:00 PM this evening, so tune in for the breaking news... maybe I shouldn't say breaking...

 

Car started perfectly fine. Runs ok too. There seem to be some fluxuation in RPMS at idle. And there is some sort of clicking coming from around the valve covers or maybe the UIM. It's hard to tell for sure. So here's the scoop...

I pulled the codes and I get P1336 which is the CKPS (POS) COG and P1105 MAP/Barometric Pressure Solenoid Valve. I already tested my CKPS so I don't think it's bad, and I know nothing about the P1105. Any ideas what may be wrong based on the history? Wat should I do from here. I don't think the valves are killed because it's not picking up any misfires even after I ran it a while. Please any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Dan

 

 

NICE Man...u finally got it to run!! See sig lol

MAP is a pita to remove cuz i think the bolts are underneath the sensor in a very inaccessible location. Its the sensor to the left of the stock intake funnel on the eninge around the upper radiator hose. Should be a bunch of tubes connected to it with one tube jus open to atmosphere.

 

There's a vacuum hose from the MAP/BARO solenoid valve to the bottom of the throttle body. It's real easy to leave that hose disconnected if you had the UIM/TB off the car at some point. That will cause P1105 and an erratic idle. You should be able to hear a hissing sound if you stick your head close to the throttle body, if the hose is off.

When you say you tested your CKPS, do you mean you tested both of them, or just one or the other? The REF is below the crankshaft pulley, the POS is on the back of the engine near the flex plate (A/T) or flywheel (M/T).

I've heard a clicking noise (not the injectors clicking, but something louder) when I had the TPS disconnected adjusting the idle. I don't know what it is.

Good to hear the valves aren't bent.

 

If you do a compression test and get a 0 in one of the cylinders. That means bent valve. Even with a bent valve the car will run okay. But you will notice a miss. Grab a long screw driver put the one end to where you hear the noise and ear on the other end. You might be able to isolate the noise.

 

I don't get the whole Sig thing. I can't see people's sigs on some posts but on others I can.What does it say?

I'll look there for the MAP.

I tested just REF come to think of it. I'll put the multimeter on POS this evening and see what I get.

AHHHH! Now I remember. When I removed the starter, I removed some hoses between the UIM and the intake tubing. There was a hose I couldn't figure out where it went. I'll take a pic and hopefully someone can help cause I was stumped about it. On that topic, my intake tubing seems to wobble a little bit if I wiggle it by hand. Should it be fixed tight or is it supposed to have some give to it?

Also, I bought a throttle chamber gasket to replace mine but in the confusion of everything, I don't recall if I put it on or not. Could a missing throttle chamber gasket cause rough idle or fluxuating rpms? Or does the IACV control idle 100%? I've been in the dark on this subject for a while.

Remember I know nothing about cars except what I've learned in the last 3 months working on my I30. So when i say I don't think the valves are bent it's not for sure lol. I just hope they aren't. But thanks for being optimistic for me . Seriously the first question I asked my brother when I bought this car the last week of November was "Does a 6 cylinder engine have 6 spark plugs?". He cried

I may see if my uncle can do a compression test for me at his shop and see what's up. Thanks for the tip about the screwdriver.

The first thing I have to do is change out the upper oil pan. Because of my 5 stripped bolt holes where the lower meets the upper I can’t get a good seal and it was leaking like a quart an hour. It’s funny how the upper oil pan sounds like a super easy small quick job now. The first time it took me, my older brother and my younger brother in law 3 days to do it lol. Now it’s a piece of cake (oily, greasy, nasty cake with blood and sweat icing) and I’ll have it done in a few hours after work this evening. PS I have an upper oil pan with some stripped bolt holes if someone in the north Houston area wants it. It needs to be rethreaded, but it’s not warped or anything.


Thanks, Dan

 

the location is not that hard to get to, we are talking about the brownish colored vacuum sensor correct? I cant remember if it is the black one or brown. If you want to test that vacuum sensor, run posivite to one side, and ground the to other. You should hear a cliking noise. If not then it is shot, change it. Now the other I have to read the manual to test that one.

 

i looked at the pic below in my FSM and the circled area is where I have a hose unconnected. Unfortunately it's super free moving so I can't tell where it goes for sure. I think it goes on the bottom of the sensor with the arrow pointing to it. That would make sens as to why I didn't see where it goes. I'll have to check when I get home this evening. Think that could cause the P1105?

At any rate I'm down to the upper oil pan. I got there in under 2 hours which is smoking fast compared to the 1.5 days it took my brother and I to do it the first time lol. I'm having trouble getting the upper pan off though because the last time I took it off I broke the pry point off the side where the headlights are. I thought the other side had a pry point too so I didn't worry about it, but I found out last night that the other side doesn't mate to any surface where the pry point is. So it's essentially just a 2.5 inch ledge.

Any creative ways to get the pan off without damaging the crank case? I don't care at all about the pan cause I'm replacing it.

 

Go to autozone, napa or even home depot. Get a spatula that has a good hard handle. I know napa sells one that has an angle on it. It has a steel rear so you can hit it with a hammer. Tap it lightly in between the oil pans. Once you tap a couple of times watch it separate. You will be able to pull it off with your hands. You dont have to use a pry bar. You can once you break the bead of permatex with the spatula a bit!

 

The secret to the upper oil pan is disconnect everything around it first! Remove the 12mms on the upper oil pan itself. It wont come undone because it is held together with permatex. Then last thin you do is secure the engine and remove the part that holds the engine mounts. Freaking had a brain fart and forgot the name of he freaking part! Thats what I do. I begint to pull everything off around it. If you dont you will be wiggling around all nervous because the engine is on a hoist and your under! I hate that feeling!

 

These are your friends!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Titan...motiveQ5fTools

The one below is the one I personally use. It has a angle to it so is easier to hit on

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Titan...item563a5ef19e

 

Thanks Jay.

I will check out the spatula thing. I have replaced the upper oil pan gasket 4 or 5 times in the last 3 months for different reasons, so I know it like the back of my hand now. Both CKPS’s, oil pressure switch connector and its bracket, rear cover plate, 4 14mm bolts pan to tranny, 12 12mm bolts (4 long; 8 short) from the pan its self and it’s ready to come off. I’m positive I have everything off now. I’ll pick up a spatula like you mentioned and it should be a breeze.

 

Pic below, where?

 

Thanks ATT. I fixed it.

EDIT: the pic that is. Not the car lol.

 

The MAP/BARO solenoid valve has three vacuum hose connections. One goes to the MAP sensor (the part your arrow points at). One connects to a barb on the bottom of the throttle body. I don't remember where the third one connects, but it runs along the vacuum gallery. Anyway if any of those three hoses is disconnected you'll get a P1105.

The MAP sensor (also called the boost sensor) should have a single vacuum hose connected to its bottom side. The other end comes off the top of the solenoid valve.

 

Awesome. Thanks. I forgot to check last night, but will do so tonight before I put the oil pan back on. I’m sure that’s all it is.

 

I drove to work today (about 12 miles) and did about 70 all the way here. I let her sit for a couple hours and just checked for oil. Didn’t leak a single drop! I’m freaking stoked right now. I finally after 3 months of work fixed the oil leak. Now I have some other issues to work out. Namely P1336, P1105, and P0325. On the way to work there was an obvious loss of power although I had no trouble hitting 70 MPH, it wasn't accelerating as it normally does. Also at idle it stalled once at a stop light and was very frough every time I stopped for a moment. Real rough like dropping to 250 rpms even with AC on. When I put it in park, it helped but was still rough.

I checked the hose and can't seem to find where it goes still. I'm starting to think it doesn't connect to anything. Here is a pic (not mine; it's from Attappman's UIM write up). The hose at the butt of the top left arrow is the hose I'm talking about.



Anyone know where to start fixing the codes? I think I'll have a compression test run this evening and see what's up there. I'll swap the CKPS I got on the salvage oil pan the other day with the one in the car and see if that wipes the P1336.

Thanks, Dan

 

I believe the hose u are referring to is the hose that is SUPPOSED to be open to amosphere for the MAP/BAro switch.

now if there are TWO hoses open to atmosphere then the other hose is supposed to be attached somewhere.

Replace KS as per how-to and that shd help free up power. Hit up ebay for a new KS. I had one, no problems.

 

Right, that hose is supposed to be open to the atmosphere.

 

Ok guys, I had my uncle do a compression test and here is the good news.

I only bent 2 valves, both on the front bank and I get to learn how to pull the head and stuff.

The bad news is my car has to go under the knife again, and everything I did removing the front and rear TC covers and all that I have to do again to pull the head. Kind of a bummer, but it was totally worth the learning experience. I can now replace just about anything that goes bad on my engine, and I'm confident in myself enough to tear into a car for real. That means the world to me and a lot of it is thanks to the org. Thanks again for all the help, but it's time to move on to a new thread... Cylinder Head R&R